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Support the channel on Patreon check out the bio: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads is all that I can manage right now
Must have for any toolbox!
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
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My Camera Gear:
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Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Kill switch connection in harness?
Its an electrical problem. Can't be a fuel, unless the rider is running out of fuel.
Sounds like Low idle to me Make sure to start with Choke and get the Bike nice and toasty
the Hotter the Engine the better it seems to behave at least it does with my 86 Honda Shadow
This was very entertaining! It reminded me off my youth, when I used to take my first car, an Audi 100, to a dedicated carburettor shop. They used to disassembly them completely and deep all parts in a solution to remove all the contaminants. Next door, there was a another little shop, stocking all types of carburettor consumables (gaskets, membranes, O-Rings, hoses, e.t.a.). The mechanic would give me the old worn gaskets e.t.a. and I would then go next door to buy the new consumables, which I would then take to the mechanic servicing my carburettor. He would then clean everything, assembly it with astonishing speed and accuracy (like a man who does that every day, many times a day) and fit it back into the car. A quick adjustment and I was off for a test drive!
My bike has 4 carbs and it's a pain in the ass 1994 Honda magna 750vfc 23k miles
Torch tip cleaners work good on carb jet holes
My two 'go to channels talking about each other'. Strange as I found them independent from each other. But really enjoyable video, thanks Ray.
Had a 05 shadow 1100. Great ride, but it’s not my Harley. Thanks for being versatile and not discriminating between 2 and 4 wheels.
I might be a bit preachy on this one, since my current job is a full-time powersports mechanic at an independent shop, buuut…
1. If you're in a carb, it's worth it sticking a q-tip on a drill and putting polishing compound down the needle valve seat- it'll help the float needle seal and keep gas from sitting at the improper height in the carb, which can affect running.
2. I was a bit worried when you pulled the main jet holder out (the brass bit you had to use a 8mm wrench for) because underneath that is the tube that mates with the needle, and many an unwary mechanic has flipped the carb over, had it fall out, and either lost it, or put it in upside down (all those tubes look pretty similar; flat side goes toward the brass, cup side towards the needle) and that causes many problems too, obviously.
3. If possible, get a can of chem dip, access to an ultrasonic cleaner, etc. and disassemble everything top and bottom to keep the plastic-y bits away from the chemicals and either let the whole carb body and brass jets soak a good several hours in chem dip, or run the carb body (not the jets usually!) through the ultrasonic with some degreaser or some sort and fresh water for 30-60 minutes. 3.A. If you do disassemble it all the way, don't forget the fuel mixture screw! It looks like there's a brass plug hiding the screw, so you'd just take a small drill bit and go slowly through the plug so as to not damage the screw sitting underneath, then take a self-tapping screw or wood screw and put it in the hole, and pull the plug out that way. Count the turns moving clockwise on the mixture screw until it lightly bottoms out, and mark it down somewhere, since you'll want to set it at the same place or a little bit richer (a fraction of a turn more counterclockwise)
4. Give the oil a quick sniff; it isn't completely unknown for a bike that has been sitting to let some gas out through the carb (past the float needle, hence me mentioning polishing it) and down the cylinders, where it can leak past the rings over time and mix with the oil. If after running it, it appears milky brown, it smells funny, and the oil level is high, do an oil change/flush and polish that float seat so that it doesn't happen immediately again. It'll be running rich if there's gas mixed with the oil, and it'll also be wearing all the internals prematurely
Grew up riding old Kawasaki Kz 1000 and Suzuki gs 1100 bikes. Got older and decided I am done being frustrated with carbs, fuel injection is the way for me now.
Hey Ray,
You missed one part of the carb circuit in your cleaning – The Idle speed set screw circuit.
There was a brass plug on the engine side of the carb that you would need to drill out, and under that would be a set screw, which has a small spring, a small flat washer, and an even smaller o-ring under it. That circuit is fed off of the pilot jet circuit, and is what feeds the motor fuel while the throttle is fully closed at idle speed. The more this set screw is turned in, the less fuel the motor receives at idle; and the more it is turned out, the more fuel it receives.
Anyway, the point is to remove the set screw, spring, washer, and o-ring, and spray carb cleaner into the circuit that feeds it, and watch that the cleaner sprays out on the other side.
This circuit not being clean is what causes the bulk of runs okay when on choke, but dies when choke is turned off issues.
Before you remove the set screw, you would need to count the number of turns in until it lightly seats in the fully closed position, so that after you reassemble the carb, you can set this screw back to its original setting.
And, of course, you would need to make sure the intake and exhaust valves are in spec (I recommend closer to the loose end of specs) to complete the full job.
When the valves are too tight, they can cause a bike to run fine when cold, but stall at idle, when coming to a stop when the bike is fully warmed up.
Would love to see more motorcycle stuff but I understand that you work at an auto shop not an motorbike shop!
/ Thumbs UPs/
If you lost the pin you could do a MacGyver and use a paper clip lol
Your videos is a mustsee. Else my day is ruined. I look for new videos every day. And I learn a lot by just following you on Youtube.
Could be the diaphragm Ray.
I used to own a Shadow 750… If you think it's a fuel related problem CHECK THE GAS CAP! Very likely, the breather hole is clogged and causing a vacuum in the tank (think of a bottle of water turned upside-down). You might also want to check the in-line fuel filter and petcock too. And if the petcock has a bunch of debris then the fuel tank may need some cleaning/flushing — did anyone look? I'd also ask if there aren't any weirdo gas additives being used like Seafoam which should NEVER be used too. I don't know if your "guy" did that but that's what I would have checked before pulling the carburetor off.
More exotic problems with those Shadows might be that it needs a valve adjustment, especially if it's getting a lot of backfiring or stuttering. Yes, these bikes have valves that do require (gap) adjusting from time to time since they're NOT "self-adjusting" or "hydraulic". I actually had a certified motorcycle mechanic try to tell me my Shadow wasn't capable of a valve adjustment until I showed him the service manual. So if any "expert" tells you that, they're full of stink!
I just had my 2009 Honda 750 Shadow Areo carburetor apart to install a Dynojet kit. I was trying to gain tha elusive 3 extra horsepower.
If there is a 1 in front of a local number it’s SPAM
I live in the UK…….what are solar panels?
g`day ray i think its the vacuum operated fuel tank fuel flow seal on the tank or the hose you said going to the tank its losing vacuum and shutting off the fuel flow at the tank like turning off the motor stopping the motor while running something to check anyway hondas seem to get this problem with age also the constant velocity carbys suffer from the rubber diaphragm on the throttle slide cracking just check not related to the original problem but they perish with age as well i am sure you know this but thought i would just throw it in just in case .. i am a old school bikes guy more than cars
cheers
james D
EDIT :is the tank venting also
Didn't expect top see you up to your elbows in a carb Ray. Look like you picked the wrong one to do a carb-cleaning video on though; I've seen new ones, straight out the box, that were dirtier than that one. 😁
I see the gas got into the float itself
i dealed with small honda engine before and the first thing i will look at its the low oil shut off sensor, even the little generators comes with those, second will be to check if it got a overheat shutoff too, havent deal with that bike, might ask a buddy of mine, so dont know much on that model but in general thats the first thing i will look on carb bike
medicare plans call all day 7 days a week
if your carb's jets are clogged a good tool to have on hand is a torch tip cleaner found in the welding sections of hardware stores, but in a pinch, just use a piece of wire from a wire brush
Small nails can be used as replacement cotter pin in a pinch.
If not solar then sell your home!! Lol
🇺🇸👍. I have a 2007 Honda 750 Spirit same carb now I’ve seen one opened I feel better about cleaning mine it’s just getting it off that’s the pain good video
Hey Ray, good day to you. You should check out mustie 1 videos, he's from NH and does alot of small engine stuff like this. Remember to have a great day .
If you're going to work on metric bikes, if you haven't already, you have to get a set of JIS drivers. Saves a ton of stripped screws.
Love the Video but love the CAKE! Haha.
Do that on a set of four carburetors (Yamaha Royal Star). I did it last year.
that gasket was interfering with the support piece on the float possibly causing the float to not close off the needle…..used to work on em years ago
Motorcycle content!!
We're not little kids, don't talk to us like we are.
Oh man.. Brings back memories with my GS500F. That bike made me hate carburetors.
Honestly surprised to learn that these things were still carbureted in 2007 🤯
Honestly, whoever does not understand how carbs work, go check out SmarterEveryDay's indepth video about how carbs work and are made. Made my mind explode and I FINALLY understood clearly how they work. Highly recommend!
I do see that Shadow 1100 in your garage.
You're doing it wrong!
Just kidding.
As a note try pine-sol cleaner, removes gas deposits, removes varnish and does not hurt plastic or gaskets at all.
The brass turns all shiny as well.
You should try it.
Hey, here’s a new way to express being up a crap creek without a paddle. At times you may find yourself…”up a foul smelling tributary without any visible means of propulsion”. Don’t know if you’ve ever heard it before, so I thought I’d take a shot and send it to you. Thought you might get a chuckle from it. I thoroughly enjoy your videos, so keep ‘em coming. Stay safe and take it easy. Chuck B.
No, we don't have those motorcycle things up north. 😁
Explaining how a carburettor works in less than 30 seconds whilst pulling the thing apart..
Ray, you are destined to do great things, and you've just started.
Hi Ray, this sounds very similar to a problem that I had with my John Deere ride on mower. It would run fine but randomly quit for no apparent reason. So I started by overhauling the carburetor, assuming it was a sticking float pin, but to no avail. I chased this one for almost a year until it got bad enough that I was able to track down the problem. It turned out that the ignition switch was worn, it would provide good contact to the fuel solenoid in the start position, but an erratic connection in the run position. Replaced the ignition switch and voila, problem went away. Hope this is helpful.
Thanks Ray. Interesting one to me. Looks like taking apart a motorcycle carb is not too difficult.
I love small engine carb cleaning and rebuilds. I usually do the 150cc gy6 variety, but it’s so therapeutic to make them purr again!
Congratulations 🎊 on 300k my friend!
Same thing happened on my v-star. Bad fuel filter