As a certified master keyboard mechanic I approve of this video. I’d also like to ask why that guy was fondling a tire while you rebuilt an entire jeep. I hope he at least took it to dinner afterwards.
So, someone/something I saw many years ago got me in the habit of removing the Master Cylinder Res cover before compressing brake cylinders for fear of damaging the Master Cylinder. Then, something I saw/read made me start to open the bleeders on the wheel cylinder when compressing to not damage the ABS unit; has the additional benefit of purging some of the older (supposedly) fluid. I've done this pretty regularly until my last brake job, where I compressed, using your recommended tool, but, I did remove the M/C res cap. Worked great, but, can you speak to these techniques, or, if they're still required in some situations?
I've always suggested to customers we rebuild the caliper….that o-ring pulls that piston back 30 thousands and heat ruins it. Please use marine grade grease….water won't wash it away. Especially in front bearings and boat trailer bearings and motorcycles where grease is used….I made a tool to inject waterproof grease into clutch and brake cables. Ray you need some box end ratchets. In Florida yall are surrounded by salt water…it's worse than road salt in snowy places….I know because I lived in and had a garage in Haines City Florida.
When you're doing the edit you might use a white noise producing device to help cover the background music stuff while not messing with your audio. Sort of like using a rain maker thing in the background…Rainman of course sort of like when it was raining in the background outside..or something that just makes a small hiss like a radio station just almost out of range. Just a thought that might help. Looks mighty clean on that car.
hahaha when you said keyboard mechanics i about shot coffee all over my keyboard… that little statement made my day. keep the great vids rolling. I'll be the first to admit i'm no pro and some of the stuff i've caught off your vids have been helping me get my daily driver up to what it should be.
I call All those in the comments section," the peanut gallery! It's not their blood sweat or tears doing the job, so IGNORE THEM. @RAY ONLY THING I FIND EXTREMELY FUNNY IS YOUR NICKNAME "RAINMAN RAY." ONE VIDEO I liked and saw was you on a four wheeled or tandem boat trailer. In the video you were so afraid of a bit of rain, anyone prudent would have thought that rain would actually kill you….lol
You seem as though you can't handle negative feedback because you think everything you're doing is A1 perfect and is the only way to do it, a good YouTuber will always take constructive criticism, and as a shop owner myself there are a few things you could have done differently and the one thing we always do is we try to break loose that bleeder screw so we can drain all the contaminants out of the caliper and we also don't use Grease on the brake contact points on the caliper bracket we use Castle dry lube after we wire brush those contact points and this is why we don't get brake jobs that come back, but I know you're perfect man and you can't take criticism, that's your insecurity something you'll have to deal with sometime in your life instead of calling people keyboard mechanics, you're not the best mechanic out there try not to pretend to be one.
Who's the poor guy sitting back by the blue tool chest putting that dumb shiny goop on tires? That's about THE most idiotic thing I've ever seen on a vehicle… shiny tires!!
I'm from the Great white north, as you say lol, and the only thing other than grease on all the moving parts is the most important of all…I always open the bleeder screw to get fresh fluid to the "square cut seal" in the caliper…it relies on fresh fluid to operate properly. It's only function is to retract the piston to allow the pads to release. If the fluid is all nasty the pads will stay mostly applied when you release the brake pedal 🙂
I miss my 2013 Jeep Sahara, ball joints, tie-rods, drag link, cross link bushings, universal joints, brakes, calipers, heater core, raidator……….and I could go on! OH, and I bought this brand new and NEVER took it off road!
Tip.. When replacing tie rods. Count how many turns you do on removable. When putting on the new ones you will be close to the right alignment. That also goes for when replacing the whole unit. Use the old one as a guide.
Good job sir , i see a little struggle on your Ridgid impact gun … I have a Dewalt dcf899 1/2 with a 6A power battery and that thing eats bolts for breakfast , believe me if u get one you wont be disappointed otherwise great job 👌👍
I've had a few Master cylinders overflow when clamping the caliper. It only happens when the master cylinder has been topped off as the pads get thinner.
Best brake job ever, should include all points of explanations. Testing everything about what is seen. No examination of pad wear. Not securing the caliber while hanging. Using general purpose grease for lubrication (containing petroleum). Not using locktite on caliber bolts. Not torquing to specs. Not thoroughly cleaning rust from caliber bracket, caliber ears and hub surface. Not changing the hardware. lubing where pads meet hardware instead of under where rustjacking occurs. So folks, if you are ever in Florida and don’t care for your maintenance on your vehicle, look up Ray. He will set you up. Best brake job ever – I don’t think so. And he manages to screw up the other work. LMAO
Ray, you must not come from the rust belt of the nation. Most of the vehicles you work on seem to be for the most part rust and corrosion free!….How NICE!
Nice job. Just did the same brake job on my Escalade. New rotors (vented and slotted) and pads all the way around. It's a 2008 and the rear rotors were looking bad so I did all 4. Only extra thing Ray I would have done is spray those front spindle nuts with some lube (for the next guy) they looked pretty rusted on there. No doubt the bearings and/or U-joints will be in the future.
This is your best brake job ever? Need to do some more schooling. First you should open bleeders before pushing pistons back in. Wait till you get one we're you push trash in abs module and now your buying a new module. Second when opening the bleeder you should pay attention to see if pressured fluid squirts out. This would indicate a bad brake hose. Also when pushing piston back in with bleeder open you will have a better feel of returnability of piston. This will help you from having a comeback with wheel getting hot. Need to be a little more aggressive in cleaning hub face. When lubricating slide pins pull pins out with dust boot. This will prevent the boot from wiping of grease as it is reinstalled. Use better quality brake pads with abutment clips. Tighten all front end adjustment sleeves don't assume your alignment guy is going to catch this. Also when having someone else touching your front end put paint marker on nut and thread so that if for some reason alignment tech doesn't tighten down something this will cover your ass.
Are you trying to tell us that this Jeep Rubicon, is the same one that receives all the suspension parts, fender wheel flares and tires and wheels? And it looks that good underneath! Oh my goodness, just found my best excuse to move south, or at least somewhere where there is little to no snow!!!
You know if you Crack the bleeders just a bit when compressing the piston it is a lot easier and you don't have brake fluid coming out of the master cylinder reservoir. I didn't notice that bend in the tie rode to go around the dif until you pointed it out. I tried one of those pickle forks on my Peugeot a long time ago and it did not work. I finally took it to PepBoys and had them do it. I think one of those clamp thingies would work better.
Ray, what's goin on? You gone all serious on us? Why isn't the camera attached to your head etc.? Where is your usual charm and humour?
As a certified master keyboard mechanic I approve of this video. I’d also like to ask why that guy was fondling a tire while you rebuilt an entire jeep. I hope he at least took it to dinner afterwards.
HAHAHA Key board mechanics I love it 😀 😆
So, someone/something I saw many years ago got me in the habit of removing the Master Cylinder Res cover before compressing brake cylinders for fear of damaging the Master Cylinder. Then, something I saw/read made me start to open the bleeders on the wheel cylinder when compressing to not damage the ABS unit; has the additional benefit of purging some of the older (supposedly) fluid. I've done this pretty regularly until my last brake job, where I compressed, using your recommended tool, but, I did remove the M/C res cap. Worked great, but, can you speak to these techniques, or, if they're still required in some situations?
I know this is kinda old but that's the most pristine suspension I've ever seen. Was it really all that worn out, sure looked pretty good.
Do you work in many separete shops??
Good job
I've always suggested to customers we rebuild the caliper….that o-ring pulls that piston back 30 thousands and heat ruins it. Please use marine grade grease….water won't wash it away. Especially in front bearings and boat trailer bearings and motorcycles where grease is used….I made a tool to inject waterproof grease into clutch and brake cables. Ray you need some box end ratchets. In Florida yall are surrounded by salt water…it's worse than road salt in snowy places….I know because I lived in and had a garage in Haines City Florida.
This guy using the wrong grease is why inner brake pads wear out and the outers look brand new
Hi don't use a pry bar like that . It's how you buckle a disc . I know I've done it. Stay well stay safe.
I saw the problem, as soon, as you panned by it, with the camera. Good catch, Ray.
When you're doing the edit you might use a white noise producing device to help cover the background music stuff while not messing with your audio. Sort of like using a rain maker thing in the background…Rainman of course sort of like when it was raining in the background outside..or something that just makes a small hiss like a radio station just almost out of range. Just a thought that might help. Looks mighty clean on that car.
Ray, How many of your "COMMENTORS? are adept and or CERTIFIED By ASE? Probably not many!
hahaha when you said keyboard mechanics i about shot coffee all over my keyboard… that little statement made my day. keep the great vids rolling. I'll be the first to admit i'm no pro and some of the stuff i've caught off your vids have been helping me get my daily driver up to what it should be.
Hi, those suspension parts look ok, why are they being changed ?🤔🤔
I call All those in the comments section," the peanut gallery! It's not their blood sweat or tears doing the job, so IGNORE THEM. @RAY ONLY THING I FIND EXTREMELY FUNNY IS YOUR NICKNAME "RAINMAN RAY." ONE VIDEO I liked and saw was you on a four wheeled or tandem boat trailer. In the video you were so afraid of a bit of rain, anyone prudent would have thought that rain would actually kill you….lol
Ray start doing your thing on Rumble and stop bending over for YouTube.
You seem as though you can't handle negative feedback because you think everything you're doing is A1 perfect and is the only way to do it, a good YouTuber will always take constructive criticism, and as a shop owner myself there are a few things you could have done differently and the one thing we always do is we try to break loose that bleeder screw so we can drain all the contaminants out of the caliper and we also don't use Grease on the brake contact points on the caliper bracket we use Castle dry lube after we wire brush those contact points and this is why we don't get brake jobs that come back, but I know you're perfect man and you can't take criticism, that's your insecurity something you'll have to deal with sometime in your life instead of calling people keyboard mechanics, you're not the best mechanic out there try not to pretend to be one.
Very well taken care of vehicle or just a new one that needed newer bits?
Who's the poor guy sitting back by the blue tool chest putting that dumb shiny goop on tires? That's about THE most idiotic thing I've ever seen on a vehicle… shiny tires!!
thunder….?????
Rumor has it, that guy is still working on that tire today.
I'm from the Great white north, as you say lol, and the only thing other than grease on all the moving parts is the most important of all…I always open the bleeder screw to get fresh fluid to the "square cut seal" in the caliper…it relies on fresh fluid to operate properly. It's only function is to retract the piston to allow the pads to release. If the fluid is all nasty the pads will stay mostly applied when you release the brake pedal 🙂
Dont you mark where old tie rod was extended to avoid alignment ?
I guess you need a bigger hammer
I miss my 2013 Jeep Sahara, ball joints, tie-rods, drag link, cross link bushings, universal joints, brakes, calipers, heater core, raidator……….and I could go on! OH, and I bought this brand new and NEVER took it off road!
Tip.. When replacing tie rods. Count how many turns you do on removable. When putting on the new ones you will be close to the right alignment. That also goes for when replacing the whole unit. Use the old one as a guide.
We use anti-seize on tie rod end threads it lasts longer than grease and doesn’t wash away
Good job sir , i see a little struggle on your Ridgid impact gun … I have a Dewalt dcf899 1/2 with a 6A power battery and that thing eats bolts for breakfast , believe me if u get one you wont be disappointed otherwise great job 👌👍
Thanks for the laugh those are looking like the same pliers I used to use. 😀
Which shop was this in, it doesn't look like your other videos.
I've had a few Master cylinders overflow when clamping the caliper.
It only happens when the master cylinder has been topped off as the pads get thinner.
It's cheapening out of the company to not include no hardware for the break pads.
Best brake job ever, should include all points of explanations. Testing everything about what is seen.
No examination of pad wear. Not securing the caliber while hanging. Using general purpose grease for lubrication (containing petroleum). Not using locktite on caliber bolts. Not torquing to specs. Not thoroughly cleaning rust from caliber bracket, caliber ears and hub surface. Not changing the hardware. lubing where pads meet hardware instead of under where rustjacking occurs.
So folks, if you are ever in Florida and don’t care for your maintenance on your vehicle, look up Ray. He will set you up.
Best brake job ever – I don’t think so. And he manages to screw up the other work. LMAO
C- clamps work really well for compressing the pistons.
That music really is horrible, I mean I like it, just the video would be better without it
phuu , if you never messed up , you never fixed anything 🙂 you are good 🙂
film all you do bro , it look like you are a honest Mek 🙂
Ray, you must not come from the rust belt of the nation. Most of the vehicles you work on seem to be for the most part rust and corrosion free!….How NICE!
Another satisfied customer, awesome work.
Dude has been working on that tire the whole video!😂
Nice job. Just did the same brake job on my Escalade. New rotors (vented and slotted) and pads all the way around. It's a 2008 and the rear rotors were looking bad so I did all 4. Only extra thing Ray I would have done is spray those front spindle nuts with some lube (for the next guy) they looked pretty rusted on there. No doubt the bearings and/or U-joints will be in the future.
Just an observation friend of mine and I used a big c clamp to push the pistons in. Would that of worked too?
A question, does shock and awe work with rubber mallet?
Your fellow mechanic in the background still working on that same tire?
This is your best brake job ever? Need to do some more schooling. First you should open bleeders before pushing pistons back in. Wait till you get one we're you push trash in abs module and now your buying a new module. Second when opening the bleeder you should pay attention to see if pressured fluid squirts out. This would indicate a bad brake hose. Also when pushing piston back in with bleeder open you will have a better feel of returnability of piston. This will help you from having a comeback with wheel getting hot. Need to be a little more aggressive in cleaning hub face. When lubricating slide pins pull pins out with dust boot. This will prevent the boot from wiping of grease as it is reinstalled. Use better quality brake pads with abutment clips. Tighten all front end adjustment sleeves don't assume your alignment guy is going to catch this. Also when having someone else touching your front end put paint marker on nut and thread so that if for some reason alignment tech doesn't tighten down something this will cover your ass.
Are you trying to tell us that this Jeep Rubicon, is the same one that receives all the suspension parts, fender wheel flares and tires and wheels? And it looks that good underneath! Oh my goodness, just found my best excuse to move south, or at least somewhere where there is little to no snow!!!
Nice job on the mini series for this Jeep……
You know if you Crack the bleeders just a bit when compressing the piston it is a lot easier and you don't have brake fluid coming out of the master cylinder reservoir.
I didn't notice that bend in the tie rode to go around the dif until you pointed it out.
I tried one of those pickle forks on my Peugeot a long time ago and it did not work. I finally took it to PepBoys and had them do it. I think one of those clamp thingies would work better.
If you don't have reasonable control over the radio, they can't make a copyright claim.
I quess we have some S.M.A viewers here 😀