50 thoughts on “Confused! why? haven t seen this before!”
Bad alternator….. go to live data .. ….. I'm a heavy equipment mechanic for CAT and haul trucks mostly but we had one chev 2500 pilot trucks act up….. pulled up live data with cheep obd2 reader, atmosphere pressure sensor "as well as all my other sensors "was reading all over the place. It flashed 80HG then 0HG when supposed to be 28HG. I laugh and said we all died lol. Again all my the sensors were all over the place not making sense. I diagnosed alternator. Truck did not come back with issue. It all the sensors the need reference voltage from battery. I also changed battery. My guess is alternator was putting out AC voltage .
I have a 1999 Range Rover P38 as a hobby / project vehicle. One day driving it, although the engine kept running, the dash instruments shut down, everything electrical like windows and indicators stopped working. The air suspension rose to maximum height. The body control unit computer had suffered an internal short, part of a design flaw. Before discovering that, however we got all the failure codes coming up on the computer, not so dissimilar to what you were getting. The body control unit was toast.
Same model, same engine, I've had this 3 times and it's always the alternator, regulator pack/brushes, sends some sort of freq to the ECU and triggers random EML codes.
Bad 5v CAN wire connection probably near an O2 sensor or TPS sensor. Something is definitely shorting out the CAN system for the vehicle though.I would say initiate shake sequence and see if you can get the false code throwing to go away to isolate the actual problem before you disassemble. If that fails and visual inspection yields no hint start following the harnesses and pigtails from any critical sensors. That’s a though one man recently dealt with very similar issue ended up being a short in a CAN wire near firewall for me. Hope you get it found and figured out.
Switch O2 sensor half codes drops off within it on my mitsubishi showed malfunction overall in engine cause of faulty o2 sensor and exhaust was allso leaking
I'd check my ground and power to the diagnostic brain. And then check those lines to ignition. Sometimes could be as simple as a bad wire and disconnect.
My snap on does that all the time. When it does I just change the scanner I’m using. Typically you wanna use a launch or autel for Hyundai or Kia. Snap on has fell off badly on the later model vehicles. Guess they’ve just gotten too comfortable with being thought of as the best.
Check the AC voltage from alternator. I've seen them test fine and even had a customer who drove one for a few weeks like that but ended up checking the alternator for 3phase current leakage. And at least two of the diodes were failing when hot and causing it to go from almost 10volts back up to 14.4 on the scope very repetitively. I was even wondering myself why the battery never would charge all the way. If you left the door open for more than a couple minutes itd be dead and wouldn't crank with a brand new battery twice a they had put on before they contacted me. It did not have the crazy growl under the hood from the diodes either. And unlike usual it didn't have much draw from the battery until warm then it would begin to pull power from the battery and alternate with the rpm's of the engine. It did get super hot of course. And would smoke if you revved it. They never knew that. And cold testing showed it good. And dc voltage seemed normal as well just a bit low at times like 12.5 which some cars do when idled and have heavy loads anyway so it was tricky to find. Also grounds or shorted reference but if say itd stop running if it were that. Or not very well at all after closed loop
Ray, you have told us many times previously to fix any battery or electrical problems before diagnosing faults, which I agree with completely. Shame on you for not following your own advice.
Left front wheel bearing for sure. 😂. Toyota tech for 13 years and I’ve never seen anything like that before. I would start with a good visual maybe start with the basics battery voltage, charging system, ground circuits. Update on what you find would be cool.
Holy crap! Looks like the flux capacitor lost phasic integrity and is charnilating the woopdi woop into bipedalating the carbatootle. Does it have an after market remote start or key fob? Keep it simple, dont get nuts this is gunna be silly. Check the grounds on the ECU, or strangely enough, have a boo at the BCM and make sure its not cracked. Sorry man, Im not an automotive guy, if it aint got track, take it back lol. Honestly, I saw on my buddies kia sportage back in 06?, where he had all kinds of weird codes on nearly every circuit. Turned out water had gotten into the BCM through the tiniest of cracks. When we opened it up it was every shade corrosion on gods green earth. The replacement he got was solid state full of resin. Maybe its known to Hyundai. Not really the same deal, I know but thats all I got. No envy here dude
Bad alternator….. go to live data .. ….. I'm a heavy equipment mechanic for CAT and haul trucks mostly but we had one chev 2500 pilot trucks act up….. pulled up live data with cheep obd2 reader, atmosphere pressure sensor "as well as all my other sensors "was reading all over the place. It flashed 80HG then 0HG when supposed to be 28HG. I laugh and said we all died lol. Again all my the sensors were all over the place not making sense. I diagnosed alternator. Truck did not come back with issue. It all the sensors the need reference voltage from battery. I also changed battery. My guess is alternator was putting out AC voltage .
This looks like a new module for the videogame "Keep talking and nobody explodes" – including the dinging chime in the background 😀
Put a new battery in it
My daughter's Mustang did that and we had to replace the PCM
Ray will have to say I've never seen that one before I work in a shop that was a new one and quite interesting to say the least
Gremlins
Did you check the oil cap placement? It could be installed upside-down.
At a guess I would have thought messed up tune but alot of other comments seem to think battery issues, would love someone to clarify this.
No comm at the DLC I’m betting the ecm is missing a power source and happens to be the one that also goes to the DLC.
I have a 1999 Range Rover P38 as a hobby / project vehicle. One day driving it, although the engine kept running, the dash instruments shut down, everything electrical like windows and indicators stopped working. The air suspension rose to maximum height. The body control unit computer had suffered an internal short, part of a design flaw. Before discovering that, however we got all the failure codes coming up on the computer, not so dissimilar to what you were getting. The body control unit was toast.
System has been corrupt, have to do reboot from FAC settings
Same model, same engine, I've had this 3 times and it's always the alternator, regulator pack/brushes, sends some sort of freq to the ECU and triggers random EML codes.
Got to be an electrical issue.
It has a JAGUAR component attached.
Computer?
Rainman will figure it out. I think you already know what the problem is but you're teasing us, LOL
Bad computer maybe.
Bad 5v CAN wire connection probably near an O2 sensor or TPS sensor. Something is definitely shorting out the CAN system for the vehicle though.I would say initiate shake sequence and see if you can get the false code throwing to go away to isolate the actual problem before you disassemble. If that fails and visual inspection yields no hint start following the harnesses and pigtails from any critical sensors. That’s a though one man recently dealt with very similar issue ended up being a short in a CAN wire near firewall for me. Hope you get it found and figured out.
Switch O2 sensor half codes drops off within it on my mitsubishi showed malfunction overall in engine cause of faulty o2 sensor and exhaust was allso leaking
Just got notification 3 days later at 5:30 pm 2/13/2022 looking for video of the repair tomorrow, Live in Michigan takes awhile to get here.
Just saw a video doing same thing the power was being shared ,mechanic found wire grounding on exhaust pipe had to repair some wires but got.
Run your grounds
Spark plugs cause the issues
Most likely an ecm failure
I think the problem is you need to go in to your KOREAN character while working on Hyundai
look for short or loose connector.
A complete tuneup will fix it plus an Battery and Alternator. Keep firing the parts cannon until its fixed.
I'd check my ground and power to the diagnostic brain. And then check those lines to ignition. Sometimes could be as simple as a bad wire and disconnect.
My snap on does that all the time. When it does I just change the scanner I’m using. Typically you wanna use a launch or autel for Hyundai or Kia. Snap on has fell off badly on the later model vehicles. Guess they’ve just gotten too comfortable with being thought of as the best.
Bad o2 sensor or bad wire + Possible EGR issue + possible bad/low battery
light it on fire
Bad ground or ground failing?
Faulty ecu
I’d start by Taking off the grounds, clean, then reinstall. If it was a GM, I would have started with bad pins.
Water in the ECU connection. Remove ECU connector(s) and dry everything.
The blinker fluid is low.
"I need to know what I don't know." said RainMan…pure wisdom there folks, pure wisdom. Gotta love it.
Check the AC voltage from alternator. I've seen them test fine and even had a customer who drove one for a few weeks like that but ended up checking the alternator for 3phase current leakage. And at least two of the diodes were failing when hot and causing it to go from almost 10volts back up to 14.4 on the scope very repetitively. I was even wondering myself why the battery never would charge all the way. If you left the door open for more than a couple minutes itd be dead and wouldn't crank with a brand new battery twice a they had put on before they contacted me. It did not have the crazy growl under the hood from the diodes either. And unlike usual it didn't have much draw from the battery until warm then it would begin to pull power from the battery and alternate with the rpm's of the engine. It did get super hot of course. And would smoke if you revved it. They never knew that. And cold testing showed it good. And dc voltage seemed normal as well just a bit low at times like 12.5 which some cars do when idled and have heavy loads anyway so it was tricky to find. Also grounds or shorted reference but if say itd stop running if it were that. Or not very well at all after closed loop
I've seen that when there was a remote start spliced to can wire.
Ray, you have told us many times previously to fix any battery or electrical problems before diagnosing faults, which I agree with completely. Shame on you for not following your own advice.
The problem is easy, It's a Hyundai look no further lol
Left front wheel bearing for sure. 😂. Toyota tech for 13 years and I’ve never seen anything like that before. I would start with a good visual maybe start with the basics battery voltage, charging system, ground circuits. Update on what you find would be cool.
Would like to know what it shows in generic OBDII mode.
Did you check the oil cap? If not that, what about the belt lettering? LOL!! Good luck, seems something is shorting out for sure!
Very likely grounding problem.
The cars computer lost its mind and want's to drag you down to it's level.
Hey Ray! Did you ever figure out why it had those floating codes?
Quick question fellas what can cause the steering wheel vibration it happens at around 65 mph
Holy crap! Looks like the flux capacitor lost phasic integrity and is charnilating the woopdi woop into bipedalating the carbatootle.
Does it have an after market remote start or key fob?
Keep it simple, dont get nuts this is gunna be silly. Check the grounds on the ECU, or strangely enough, have a boo at the BCM and make sure its not cracked. Sorry man, Im not an automotive guy, if it aint got track, take it back lol.
Honestly, I saw on my buddies kia sportage back in 06?, where he had all kinds of weird codes on nearly every circuit. Turned out water had gotten into the BCM through the tiniest of cracks. When we opened it up it was every shade corrosion on gods green earth. The replacement he got was solid state full of resin. Maybe its known to Hyundai. Not really the same deal, I know but thats all I got. No envy here dude
ghost codes caused by low voltage? Check charging system first.