Gotcha! Ah, all right. Camera shy or not, Troy is gonna do the operation on this 2006 Chevrolet Silverado We just got done doing all boatload of work to it. rebuilt the front brakes cleaned, adjusted the rear brakes, changed the exhaust manifold, gaskets, and the y-pipe collector tube seals, and now we need to finish this project off with a full system brake fluid exchange because that fluid in there is burnt, nasty, destroyed and it needs to be replaced. So uh, that's what we're gonna do in this video.

We're gonna use some BG fluid with the power flush machine. It's the Pf7 that's the model name of the unit. Uh, basically we've got a pressure vessel here. We're going to connect Shop Air to it.

We're gonna pump fresh fluid into the brake master cylinder reservoir. Then we're going to connect the vacuum pump on the machine to each one of the individual wheel cylinders. We're going to suction out the old fluid and pump in new fluid at the same time. Are you ready? Are you ready? I Call you, you're ready, he's ready.

He's ready. Guys, we're gonna do it. Let's get to it. Okay, so this is kind of gonna be like a hybrid training video.

So I'm actually gonna talk to him and I'm not really going to talk to you. You guys are just going to hang out here with me while we go through this. So Troy What we need to do since we're going to be removing all that fluid and pumping in new fluid. Uh, the rule of thumb is when bleeding is that we start from the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder and then move to the next farthest or the next closest and then the next and the next.

So we're going to start at the right rear. we're going to go to the left rear, then the right front. We're going to finish it off. Uh, here at the driver's side, left front.

That make sense. Yeah, the reason being is when we move into the next wheel, that's closer, that line has already been purged because the rears are going to share one single line. Going bad. All right.

Come on over here, let's fetch the machine and get this thing set up. So first things first. we're going to need to install some new brake fluid from a sealed container into the pressure vessel. Do we have fluid out of the Vault of viscosity? Negative, You do not.

Let us go fetch some fluid. Beat you to it. You walk slow. Let's see what we got in here.

There we go. We're gonna end up using. Not that we're gonna use two quarts because the master cylinder on that truck is going to hold almost one entire court. So we need one quart for flushing.

and then we need one quart to fill the Masters All right. So grab one of these, bust it open, and then fill up the pressure unit. the pressure vessel. That's what I call it I don't know what BG calls it.

That's what I call it Pull that thing up all the way and as it says on the label, hand tighten the cap. It's not gonna work. Ah, that works. Look, you just contaminated the fluid with your fingers.

You ruined it. Not really. It's good. Don't worry about it.

fill it on up food. It's got a screen in there to prevent contaminants from entering the system plug. Don't spill all right. Stick the cap on there and then hand tight.

only. it's got an o-ring on the cap so making it tight doesn't make it seal. The O-ring makes it seal. Don't cross thread it.

Okay. Next what I want you to do is take the shop air hose, connect that to the fitting on the machine, and then you're going to turn on the vacuum pump. Okay, okay, because what we need to do is we're going to take the vacuum line here and we're going to suck out all the fluid that's in that master cylinder and then refill that Master with however much we can out of this. uh, other fresh bottle.

just stick that guy Down in the Hole pull out whatever else you can ninja. Judo There's two valleys right? There's yeah, there's gonna be two Chambers in here. There's one chamber for the front brakes and one chamber for the rear brakes. They're connected after it at the top, so if you fill it up all the way, it'll spill over and then fill the other chamber.

But if you can get that into the second chamber, that's best. If you can't then you can. It is what it is. All right.

I Think you got it all. So let's pull that guy out. Shut down the vacuum on the machine because it's just gonna click away and be annoying. and I'm Gonna Fill This guy back up trying to see where the level is.

It's in there somewhere now. It's okay if we overfill this because once we're done and we compress the calipers with the brake pedal inside, it's going to drop the fluid level. And additionally, we can still use the vacuum hose to Uh to set the final level. but I like to get this as full as possible.

That way there's not a bunch of air in there to decompress when we apply pressure to it. So now let's go ahead and connect. uh, the fitting. Let's connect that adapter to it that the adapter that connects the pressure side of the machine to the brake system.

So put that thing on and screw it in. There you go, that's it. and then kind of tighten that some. Okay, it's threaded.

so once you click the base on because the base has those little ears on it. Once you turn that the base engages. you can turn the top of it and it'll thread down and push that diaphragm against the top of that. Uh Reservoir Okay, now grab the other line.

Uh, actually real quick. The Machine's Under Pressure Right right. You don't need to hold here. Dip this off there.

Those ones will be there because those are going to be strong all over the place. So you got it. Okay, that's the pressure line. Don't open that.

No, No. the system's Under Pressure Look, so take your airline off because you don't want to do any kind of Hose connections. Uh, with the air line on. Then we dump the pressure out.

See that. Now go ahead and hook that hose up to the fitting on top of the reservoir. It's just like a quick disconnect for, uh, like an airline. Okay, now open the valve slowly.

Okay, actually I did I told you wrong. Close the valve. Oh, sideways is closed. 90 degrees from the line is closed.

Um, if it's parallel with the line, then it's open. So that's closed. Now put your shop air back on. Connect that guy to the fitting, Check your gauge.

We have pressure this knob right here. This can adjust our pressure. Okay, okay. I like like 12 pounds.

12 PSI is good. See that. Okay, so now we have charged brake fluid Under Pressure this 12 PSI brake fluid right here up to that point. So you're going to slowly crack that open and then make sure that that fitting right there does not leave.

You should feel the fluid start to flow through it. Yeah, feel it. right there. Yeah, Okay, so now the system is pressurized right here at the master cylinder.

So what we can do is go ahead and click the vacuum back on. and then you take your vacuum line and bring that around over to the right rear. Okay, I'll do it for you. Yeah, we'll take that over to the right rear and then find the bleeder valve.

It'll reach and go under the car. Okay, we're off in the right rear wheel well here. So take your hook and hang that on your leaf spring and then on the back of our brake, see where the brake cylinder is. Pull the cap off the bleeder valve.

A little rubber cap there. Set that aside. Now, break that, break that bleeder valve loose a little bit. Okay.

Take the wrench off and open it a little bit more. We want to see some fluid. Yeah, no, not yet. Not yet.

Um, go turn on. Why do we not have vacuum over here? We do. We do. We feel it.

I Guess we can't hear the Okay. We do have vacuum. All right. Stick that on and then use the open inside of your wrench to open that valve a little bit more.

You want to get some fluid flow through there. Okay, yeah, you're not getting it. It's I'm getting a mosquito. There's a mosquito biting me.

There we go. got it? So you got some fluid flow going through that line? I Can see it all right? So now let's go back to the machine and we'll check the marks on the pressure vessel. see how much fluid has been displaced. Yeah, they always bite me in the ankles I Think it's because my feet stink.

Silly mosquitoes. Yeah I know you shouldn't wear shorts. that's why. Well, it's hot outside so I can wear your shorts if I want to.

The way you'll notice you. just got a provision right here for the master cylinder. We've already done that, so we're going to pretend that these marks are actually up here. So what I want to do is let this thing go down until it's about halfway through.

Yeah, and that should be enough to accommodate for the right rear. plus the ABS pump plus all the lines of the condition of the fluid over here on our right rear. so real easy. All I'm gonna do is we're gonna reach in and close that valve off.

Let's give it a little turn. I Realize there's this under vacuum, but I like to close the valve when uh Changing State of the vacuum line because air can still be sucked in after you take that off because what can happen is this thing can actually pull more fluid through than how much is being pressurized through. so it'll put the system in a vacuum. Then when you take that line off, it'll uh, it'll suck air in real quick and then you've got to purge that air out.

So I just like to go ahead and close it straight from the get-go But what we do is after we think we've done enough, we crack this open and look at the condition of that fluid. see how clean that is. It's brand new, nice fluid so we can close this off. We'll give it a one more turn with the Box inside right there.

Close that good, and then put your uh, your little cat back on it. You gotta get your cap. Always get your cap. No Cap No Cap No, yes cat.

Okay Grab your vacuum line and let's move over to the driver's side rear on the other side of the truck. Okay, repeat procedure: Grab your wrench, pull your cap. yeah, pull the cap off, don't lose it, and then break that loose with your wrench first before you put your hose on. This is real easy the it only gets hard if you let air get into it.

So Break It Loose push push push push push push push push push. There you go. Okay, a little more you got flow. This is good.

Stick your thing on there. Begin vacuuming. now. open it a little more.

Yeah, if you can get like a quarter turn on it, he lives his knife a quarter turn at a time. Like your jokes are. so dad jokes. Yeah, these youngins don't Like the dad jokes.

Don't worry, you'll reach dad joke age eventually. I Promise. All right. coming back and taking a look at our pressure device.

Here you can see our fluids coming down. We're gonna go ahead and stop this. We let the outside go a little too far, so we're gonna stop this one. Like right around the W somewhere around there.

And then we can do, uh, the front wheels. and we do not ever want to let this thing go past the W4 Mark Okay, so that we're going to keep that much fluid in there as a minimum. All right. Okay, a few moments later, let's go ahead and check.

Uh, check our fluid condition here. Come on down. Okay, Grab your uh, grab your wrench and again. close your valve because we don't want the air to get in there.

Close it. Oh, you failed too late here. Just go ahead and pull. Pull it off it already.

It already broke the seal so to speak. Yeah, just take that off. We want to see what kind of condition the fluid's in. Open the valve.

Is it clean fluid? or is it dirty fluid? It's clean? Yeah. See the air? See those little air bubbles? Yeah, okay. Use your uh, use your open end, flip your wrench around. Did you get you get more? Uh, kind of.

You can get better angles to work at it. Open it some. Yeah, that fluid's nice and clean. All right.

Go ahead and close it. That's brand new fluid coming out. If we close it till it stops, then use your boxed end of your wrench to put some torque on it just a wee bit. There you go, put your cap back on and we're gonna tote this hose over to the right front.

Okay The right front's easier. there's more space to work on. Bring it on over. Go Go.

Go. Go. Go Go Go Quick. Go Go Go Go Go Go Go Go.

Hustle. Okay, right front caliper. Hang that thing somewhere for your cap. Just hitting that like stick it in there.

There you go. I Can't go anywhere. All right? Pop That Thing Open Break It Loose First there you go. now.

put your hose on it and put it on all the way. There you go and then just open it up with your open end and we've got flow and then let it ride for a little while. Just like that, let's go check our machine. All right.

the machine's starting to come down a little bit. Now keep in mind these calipers. Those were full of air when we started. Remember because I just changed those calipers.

So ah, go ahead and close that valve off. You close. Yeah, okay. pull your hose off.

There you go. Now open up that valve a little bit, see what kind of fluid we get out of it. Saw some air open a little more. Okay, that's still got a yellow tint to it.

Okay, put your hose back on. Open it up. We're gonna let it flow some more. There you go.

Hope it a little bit more. Yeah, right about that. That's perfect. You leave that alone.

now. come over here. You got to check your uh. check your machines.

Leave it alone. Put this hose wants to fall off it. but it no, won't see. It's good.

It's good. Come here quick. Check your machine. What if we run out of, uh, if we run out of fluid it'll pump air into, then we gotta do it all over again.

You don't want to do that right? Yeah, so where are we at? Where do you want to stop? What are you thinking? Um, I'd say that's great. So that leaves all this fluid for that caliper, right? Okay, let's let it ride. So we get right down to there waiting game. Throw it back.

Well, if your hose wants to fall off, you can just kind of arrange it so it won't fall off. see if it's got all this other weight dangling off of it. That's what the Hook's for. So you can move this around to take up some of that weight of the hose.

Ah, that way you can't fall off like what it just did. Is that what we want it? You see that there Troy's like I've made an error in judgment. Yeah, we're at the Mark. Go ahead and close your valve.

Go ahead and close it off. We're right at the W-2 mark. That's wheel. two.

close that guy off and then pull your vacuum line away. Okay, give it a second so we can build up some pressure. That's been a second. Okay, crack that guy open and let's see what kind of condition we get There we go.

That's nice and clear. I Like it open a little bit more. check for some air. I See no bubbles? Okay, close it, close it.

Loves it. Make it tight with your box end is the openings like to slip but the boxes are good. Okay, Grab your hose and your wrench and let's go do the driver's front. Oh my.

God Yeah yeah, you had to do this one. You do it all by yourself I Don't remember? Yeah you do. If you don't remember then you need Joe Rogan's Alpha Brain Oh, you dropped something. There it is.

Found it. I've been working out. Nope. Crack it open with your box in first.

it's got better grips. There you go and stick your line on it and then use your open end to open it more. Just like. So perfect.

That's good. All you need is like a half turn or a quarter turn if you open it too much. What will happen is it'll start to let air get sucked in through the thread and it'll just suck air into the fitting there and you'll lose vacuum in the rest of the system. And that's not what we want to do, right? Yeah, right now this part's critical.

Look around behind you. You don't want to let that go past that. W4 line. See that if it goes past that, there's danger that it's going to, uh, start to suction in some air.

and I know that they say that there's a check valve in here and if it goes too low, it'll stop flow. I Don't care. I'm not even going to give it the opportunity to fail and introduce air. so that's my.

that's my personal minimum. That's my cut off. Okay, we have reached the W4 Mark You know the drill. Go ahead and close your valve.

Oh, you took the hose off. All right. Did you close? Yeah. okay.

Pull your hose off again and then open it up and let's see what kind of fluid we get. We're checking for air bubbles and we're checking for yellowish. Brown fluid. What do you got there? No air bubbles and no yellow brown.

Food Wonderful. Go ahead and close it up. so is it. Closed it.

Close it and then make it tight. Give it some clicks. All right. Put your cap back on.

Come on out of that wheel welding. Pop down there here. Let's shut down some noises here. Suction pump off and the compressor kicked on.

but I'm going to shut that off too. Okay so now dump the pressure so it's all gone. If you, if you disconnect this with pressure in the system, it will spew brake fluid out at you. Oh, that's not okay.

Big red button? Yeah. Is it empty? Yes. Okay, Now you can close that valve, isolate the machine from the vehicle, and then you can disconnect the quick disconnect. Pull that guy off good.

Set the hose aside, and now you can remove the adapter and we will check the fluid condition in level from that point. So let's see what we've got in there. Oh, look at that beautiful, nice, shiniest new fluid. All right.

So next hop into the cabin and you're gonna pump the pedal on the brakes. What would you do? What we need to do is make sure that those pistons and those calipers have collapsed and are pressing the pads against the rotors. So hop in, pump the pedal a few times until you start to feel a bit hard and then we can recheck level one more time. Get it with your foot.

Now remember this thing came in with like locked up and overheated and hot spotted rotors, right? Yeah, we still have to make sure like we fixed all the stuff that was damaged and everything. We still have to make sure something's not causing those brakes to hang up because if we let this thing ride and there's an issue like with the ABS pump or the brake master cylinder or something like that and it smokes those brakes, we got to buy more brakes. Do it again and then still. we have to go back and find what the problem is.

So we got to remember where we started from and we started with a lot of unknowns. so it was all damaged and whatnot. Yeah, makes sense. Yeah, how's that pedal feel? Um, it's gotten to a point where it feels like a Chevy pedal? Yeah, All right.

So hold your brake pedal down real quick. I'm just going to check these. make sure they're engaging. Yeah, that one is and we're going to make sure they're not locking up.

Also Okay I can't turn them. let off the pedal. Okay I should be able to turn this. yepper that's not locking up and also not locking up.

Hit the pedal. Yeah, yeah. part. Lego Beautiful.

All right. So we're good here. that all seems to be working Uh, as designed. Let's come over here and check out our fluid.

Master Level Master Reservoir Cylinder level Words: You guys know what I meant. What do you guys think? What do you think? Troy What do you think? What do you think about our what do you think about our brake fluid level over here? Oh, it looks pretty full. Is it full? Probably probably too much. Is it too much full? What do we do about that? We've got.

we've got. tools at your disposal. Do we need to suck it out? Yes, sir, we do. So how are we gonna do that? Put this on here.

reconnecting, put air hose. Okay, okay. and then we do this. Fire that back up.

Good suction hose. Yeah, We've got brand new friction material in the front, right? Yeah. Really good friction material in the back, right? Yeah, So we only need to set this to the maximum level, right? Okay, go ahead and suction it down until the okay. There you go.

Now you can see. Oh, right on. You're right below the mat. Perfect.

Okay. Power it all back down again and also disconnect and dump your pressure. Oh, disconnect the line First. You gotta watch.

Let me show you. Let me show you. if you dump the pressure, is that line connected? Watch what it does. It just builds pressure back up because there's the valves inside Leaf They all do it.

Try to disconnect that, then you can jump for pressure. Yeah. I Mean you could probably turn the regulator like all the way down, but that's not necessary I Just disconnect it I Think that's easier? Okay, so now we need to clean the mess that we made, don't we pretty much check fluid spilled everywhere, right? Yeah, gotta clean that up. Let's go clean that up to the brake clean stash.

it's in here somewhere. Ah, there you go. There you go. That's for you I Want one for me too? Uh yes, no, it's not crazy on this.

just a little bit crazy. There we go, it's fishing. How dare you? Next, just spray I Mean you can use water too because brake fluid is hydroscopic meaning it will dissolve in H2O So we could dump water on it. But why don't water when we have chemicals and your ecosystems are collapsing, right? I'm horrible.

but you're ruining the environment, dumping chemicals everywhere, People are dying. All right, we're kind of good to go. Let's uh, let's get the wheels back on this beast and uh, we'll take it out on the road. We have to burnish in the front brakes.

Send it next. Good okie dokie. Wheels are on and torque truck is on the ground. Let's take this thing out on the road and burn it in our our new front brake assembly.

Uh, get rid of that. Pull that guy aside Troy You ready to roll? Hey, we're working here getting the truck I'm coming. What are you doing over there I'm like talking to him and he's like oh I'm just gonna go over here like come on, you're killing me Smalls You're killing me. Get in the truck, Get in the van.

Get in the truck. Emilio Get in the van. All right we're gonna go out. We're gonna burnish these brakes.

restarting the engine before we go anywhere before we drive anywhere and make sure pedal feels good one more time. Here's how I like to do this on a major brake repair neutral. right foot on the brake and then in drive just in case it lets go or we have no brake action. It's unlikely but possible.

or maybe we forgot to pump the pedal up. so every time I pull out a brake job I Start neutral. That way you're prepared to throw it back in Reverse or in park. You don't run somebody over because if I ran over like the wife units, that would be not okay.

Yeah right. I don't want to do that. You ready to roll, honking for safety? See, We got everyone's attention. They're looking at us now.

Is that fan in the way? Uh, no no. I'll just run it over. So what we got to do to circumnavigate the door of death is cut it out wide. like so drive over here towards the iris and then we'll go full lock in that direction and pull it right out.

I'm gonna do this in one shot too and clear the door. both doors, all doors, multiple doors. and the trash cans and the fans. and the door that's open.

Beautiful just like that. Look at that brake. still feel good I Like it all right now. What we need to do.

It's called burnishing. You see the uh, the pads and especially the rotors. They have microscopic Peaks and valleys in their machine surface. Okay, okay I'll tell you.

after you open the gate, see what? I just did there get out see I have a gate opener. All right. come on in. watch this.

it's gonna be great. Uh yeah yeah. go ahead and close it. unlock I Couldn't help myself.

All right seat belts, fan clicking her ticket. So anyway, as I was saying before, I tried to drive away the uh, there's microscopic Peaks and valleys in that rotor surface and we want to break very lightly. What's going to happen is the pads are going to wear out and it's going to wear and fill those microscopic valleys with some of the padded surface or some of the pad material and it's going to mate the two surfaces together. Okay, that makes sense.

Yeah, that's what we're here to do. coming up to the light. Very light pedal pressure. We're just going to come in a slow slow down.

For a slow pace to slow down, we want to avoid stopping if possible. What can happen during this procedure is if you stop and you keep pedal pressure on the brake pedal, it can actually embed extra material into that section of the rotor and it can cause a difference in the compression coefficient and that'll create a vibration and that's not what we want. We want a smooth brake event, not a vibrating brake event. Should we end up in a position where we have to stop, then it's best to just like kick it into neutral.

Like right about now, we'll just put it into neutral or just keep creeping forward very slowly with no brake pedal pressure. ready to roll. Here we go the top of the bridge again. we're going to apply some light paddle pressure.

It's kind of coast all the way down keeping light pedal pressure. switching lanes I Use my turn signal for safety so other drivers know what I intend to do. It's a skill lost here in Florida it is. Now we're gonna end up stopping up here because we've got the red arrow.

so we'll Coast up to it I'll click it into neutral and now I do not have to apply a bunch of brake pedal pressure creeping forward. What we're going to do is we're going to initiate like five or six of these types of stops and then after that we get into some heavier stops. Nothing crazy, we just want to drive kind of normal. You know, we don't want to do like a 90-0 stop or anything like that.

We just want a lot of brake motion between the pads and the rotor with minimal pressure. That's kind of the goal here. See how I'm letting off and I'm just letting it creep up every inch or so. It's because I don't want that stuff to embed.

especially with these particular rotors because these were coated rotors. Did you see how they were black? That's like a coating or whatever. and that's supposed to help with the burnishing process, but if done improperly, it'll immediately cause vibrations, thus negating all of our efforts. exactly.

These are actually pretty good pads of rotors. These are what I put on my truck and I kind of like them anyway. green light. So we're not going back to the shop just yet.

We have to initiate some more stops, you know? I've told folks uh, similar things like I've said these conversations with customers before I give them their car back and I tell them don't do this and don't do that and I've ridden with them and man, they've gotten in and just immediately stood on the brake pedal and I'm like that is the exact opposite of what the instructions were and I don't I don't understand. That's what people do I guess they do whatever they want. No one's against it. no comprende and a little bit of pedal pressure.

Yeah, just a couple slowdowns. We don't even have to have a complete stop and another Slowdown we'll do a few of these. What we're gonna do is go all the way down past the school, then we'll make it right. we'll get back on the big road and then we'll do like a like a 60 or 70 slow down down to 35..

traffic and safety permitting of course. Do that again. Move. Man calf's like what are you doing did you hate my daddy? Well there he goes.

All right, right, turn back to the big road. Is that cow chasing us? No he ran over to Mom didn't it? More Steam Maximum horsepowers all right. So with the exception of like one miniature van like we can see you, we can both see you with the exception of one miniature van behind us. Uh, there is no traffic so we're gonna do this.

Uh, 64 to call it like a 30 mile per hour slow down some light pedal pressure. all right. back on it again. Steam All right.

feels good. no crazy pulls either direction when braking. We also want to look for that, especially in this particular instance because we did find that uh, right front caliper had the pad fell out of it and there's always a suspicion that the thing could get hung up and cause a pull which have that that situation occurring. So we're good, this is in good shape I Think we're we're all set here.

Okey dokey back to the shop we go. The last thing on my list of things to do with this truck is to check in that on that uh on that service engine soon warning indicator that is currently indicated and uh other than that uh this operation is good to go. So that being said, we would like to thank you guys for watching this video. As always we hope you enjoyed this video If in fact, you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let us know about that in the comment section down below.

Don't forget to tap that like button while you're down there. And most importantly, don't forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later in a video in a Chevrolet in a brake job in transmission parking Seattle Powering down.