What did you do to your hand, decide to give your fingers a break. 🙂

Nice job on the electricals Ray. If your not busy my house needs a rewire. Adelaide Australia. See ya soon lol. Keep the videos coming

Ray's Repairs on tour! coming to a town near you!

to cut flex conduit cut across the high ridge diagonally with a hacksaw, cut-off wheel, etc., then when the cut armor unscrews.

Are you gonna be a mobile mechanic ray?

Eye spy a service trailer?

Rainman Ray's Mobile Repairs

Quit talking by them at either home. Home Depot at home store will have them they're cheaper they will save you getting hurt or burning your trailer

They make a special tool to strip that armored cable.

Ok, now my REEEEEEEEEEE
Need to get a cord with the ground pin! I know it, you know it… just saying. Ground is important when angry pixies go in the wrong places. Now for the wiring Job….not bad for a first stab. BX or metalclad (MC) or armored cable (ac) — all the same stuff— is notoriously hard to work with even for those in the know. Nicked wires , crushed armor, all kinds of things can go south. 1. The clamps you were using were the wrong kind. Those were for Romex. You can tell by the shape of the clamping part. Bx are a bit more rounded. (See lowes 45176) You can use them, they work, but they are not correct. Don't clamp those too hard or let an inspector see them.
2. You need the little red anti short bushings ….plastic ends(lowes 5034202). These are not required but are a MUST. Especially on a trailer. Moving and vibrating stuff cuts wires. They go into the end of the cable and protect it from that nasty sharp edge of the armor. Use them… redo those ends…. they WILL eventually rub into the wires.
I prefer the snap in fittings over the clamps because clamping MC may cause shorts. (Home depot 723125).
So add the bushings and clean up those sharp ends!!! Before you pull that trailer around too much.
Also, those lights plug together in a chain. I would suspect unplugging at the first light not on.
Reeeeeee out
Edit: both box stores carry this stuff. I just used Lowes or HD part numbers as examples by which was easier to find on their web sites.

Needs a Disco ball…

that's more than I would have done.

mobile mechanic ray

2 ways to cut it. Bend it till it breaks and cut with sheet metal snips…. old school. But there is a better way. Be right back…
Bx armored cable cutter. Home depot has a Klien 953151 and Lowes has Ideal 20582. It is a little crank thing with a tiny saw blade. Soooooo cool. Awesome tool. Once you use it you won't go back

This is sketchy looking and Im not even an electchicken (AvE ref). Look like something I'd do.

There's no easy way to strip the metal off unless you get the fancy tool. There's a little plastic thingy that's red that goes in that protects the wiring. That's a different method most the ways I know involves snipping it on the ridge.
Not bad and you're right about reversed Dingley bits I've had a few occasions where I've almost got poked in the eye, bend them out of the way while you're working.
You should always and it's good practice separate your lights and outlets just in case you were the trip the breaker you're not in the dark as well.
Backfeeding a temporary supply through a breaker during installation and for testing is quite common "most" breakers allow this. Although you have to be super extra careful not to backfeed or have multiple feeds you only really want one incoming line so when you turn the main breaker off everything's off. I say that because apparently it's common to find houses with circuits that loop back into other circuits and somehow they got lucky that they weren't across two phases….
Hey not bad you manage to get all the strands in! You might be able to branch out.

Unless i am confused, is the breaker box actually now mounted behind the tool cabinet, where you will never be able to access it?
Also that conduit is going to chew through those wires without a plastic bushing to shield them from the cut edges.

Nice trailer, looking forward to seeing it progress.

One safety issue – you need to get an earth installed between the house socket and the trailer.
The trailer is insulated from earth by the tyres. If you get any sort of live-earth fault in there, the metalwork could all sit live at mains voltage.

If that white outlet is a 20a duplex near the blue cabinet and it's fed from 15A breaker, it's a violation. can't have 20a duplex on a 15A breaker…yet you can have a 15A DUPLEX on a 20a breaker….sounds strange, but there is a NEC reason why….

A circuit breaker doesn't care about the direction of electron flow, it isn't ideal but it's perfectly alright to backfeed a breaker and said circuit breaker will still current protect at what it is rated for.

Back-feeding through a breaker is fine, that's basically what a generator feed on a house is. You don't necessarily need it for a panel that's going to be plugged in, but doesn't hurt to have it. Having separate breakers is good, don't want your lights going out if your outlets get a short, vice-versa. The frame of the trailer should be grounded to the box in case something live touches it. You did good using solid core wire, most diy'ers go for the stranded stuff which is meant for hooking up 1 appliance, not an entire circuit. It needs plastic bushings in the shielding through so the wires don't chaff. Typically you want to leave the wires with a little extra looped in the box for future repairs or additions. Your cord should be 10 gauge not 12, that won't handle 30 amps.

NO, NO keep being a mechanic, your expertise as an electrician kind a sucks. You will see after you light your butt up doe the first time