This is a 2007 ford E van with a 4.6l v8. It came in with a dead hole misfire on cylinder 7 and I found a host of other problems.
This is part 1 of a series. I broke this video down because this van has been lingering in the shop for a few days. Here is part 2! https://youtu.be/dnVqOuhVykE
Looking for part 3? It's ready, Click HERE! https://youtu.be/6-XCQ_0LbxQ
Support the channel on Patreon check out the bio: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
This is part 1 of a series. I broke this video down because this van has been lingering in the shop for a few days. Here is part 2! https://youtu.be/dnVqOuhVykE
Looking for part 3? It's ready, Click HERE! https://youtu.be/6-XCQ_0LbxQ
Support the channel on Patreon check out the bio: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
That engine sounded horrible 😂
You say it's diesel but your going to remove spark plug?
Wow, getting motion sickness from all the camera movement. Gonna pass on this video
The VIN can be erased. Just need to know how to do it.
look on ebay
We're can I find your PO box
I refuse to believe that van was built in 2004.
It looks like it came straight from the 80’s.
i've owned vans for work for 30 years… if ever it goes to the shop… the doghouse, passenger compartment and front area is perfectly clean… this is unacceptable in the video.
Dang that’s nasty lol.
Some car manufacturers have decided the DTC codes to go even more elusive diagnosis, and sometimes only indicate seemingly phantoms. In those cars check engine light goes on for only for emission control related issues, BUT not for some major running issues that can be found only through DTCs.
Let me speak for my Volvo XC90 2.5T year 2005.
First incident:
Total loss of power for a fraction of a second when overtaking, REPEATED MANY TIMES, and I was really afraid of transmission and Haldex damage as it was really a 100%-.0%-100%-0% power. No check engine light whatsoever. Seller's workshop diagnosed this as cylinder 2 coil damage and it was fixed. Missing check engine light puzzled me by now already. Had to pay for that as it did not belong to warranty. But let us go forward for the later incidents.
Second incident, part 1:
I drove the car from about a minus 20 centigrade to a underground car park into a underground environment about +15 centigrade and high humidity. Then about a hour later I took a trip in -20 centigrade and the car begun to stumble at idle really , and on the highway slow lanes I got display "reduced engine performance".
At that point I could drive the car a bit carefully back home, carefully, and pulled these out:
ECM(Engine Control
Module)
ECM-120D Air Mass.
The engine control module (ECM) checks the signal from the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor under two different driving conditions. First at a high air flow with vehicle speed, then at idle speed and a stationary vehicle. The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored if the engine control module (ECM) registers that the temperature difference at these two measurement points is implausibly similar.
ECM-929D Engine Control Module (ECM)
Remainder alrady here: Check your ambient temps, let it all stabilze for a bit and then check again.
Second incident, part 2:
No, I had not to scrap my throttle body (and €€€€ my wallet) as it is a Bosch unit with very reliable position control. It was just a tiny droplet of water condensate that froze back in the freezing outdoor environment and prevented the servomotor a tiny of time from moving at a very specific time.
I would like everyone running cars in cold climate to be aware of such incidents. I have also experienced IC freezing just due to sudden temperature change from -30 centigrade to -20 centigrade and high relative air humidity.
I’ve always done my own maintenance but only stuff like brake pads, rotors etc. I did rebuild a VW type 2 engine many years ago but have done less and less since cars became so electronic. Your channel has encouraged me to treat myself to a decent scanner and go deep into diagnostics. I sorted out a misfire on my Touran recently without troubling a mechanic so thank you for that. Learning all the time!
Good work buddy like your shit
For what it's worth, that should be an EEC-V system. Those units can be reflashed as long as it has the correct hardware code on the label affixed to the side of the EEC connector. I am using an EEC from a 1996 E series van with a 351 and E4OD to operated my MAF/SEFI 460 in my 1986 F350. I changed cylinder size, MAF size, injector size and firing order using a software package called Binary Editor supplied by Core Tuning LLC. I can also adjust the E4OD shift points, line pressure and torque converter clutch lock/unlock points.
Seen this before with intercom systems. Before I even watch further I'm going to say it's a grounding problem. The noid light didn't power correctly but when you used tester you grounded to the chassis, not back up the wire so you got 12V. It also served to temporarily lower the resistance in the circuit allowing the noid light to make full circuit for a while when you plugged it in again . Hate this kind of intermittent problem.
Video description says 2007 but when you read the door sticker code you said 2004, … ??
Dude new subscriber badass content you have and I'm not even a tech but I am in the auto industry.
that thumbnail is exactly what i am about to do. parts cannon. the damn car loses power twice a week then it works ok. no codes, no engine lights. nothing. my other car won't crank like twice a week too. then all is ok. damn intermittent problems.
you could flash the ECM?
Being a service plumber I have to say the rattle prevention in my service is important! I try to keep the noise down as much as possible. Lol
PARTS CANNON!PARTS CANNON!PARTS CANNON!
Pug the coil back in. Clear all tdc and recheck injector pulse. Ford ecu will turn off injector when the coil is unplugged
Customer States: "….."
After looking at the state of vehicle, Viewers: "……. yeah, right."
Even for a work van it is in a state. Does no-one care what their environment is like anymore?
Surely a ten minute tidy-up (not a massive clean, just throw out rubbish and put paperwork in a tote), before a mechanic has to work on it, is in order.
I would recommend wiggle testing as well. Also, just for future – Continuity doesn't always mean current can flow. This is where things get tricky.
I found the problem without even watching…It's a FORD! There is your problem! Get rid of the Ford, and the problem(s) go with it!
I had a p30 van that the exhaust manifold would crack from excess heat
My son's 2005 Acura TL ECU starting failing. After following the Acura's Repair Manual, it was clear I needed to replace it. Use dor new you need to encode the VIN and the immobilizer. The Autel MaxiPro MP808K (a $800 machine) was able to perform both tasks on the replacement ECU. No idea if it works on a Ford but Autel has a wep page for checking features on your vehicle.
Isn't globalization wonderful?
LTFT and STFT fuel trims will assist easily in telling you were the problem is. 0-10 is normal. Anything between 10-20 Is in the ignition side. Meang coils plugs wires and component wiring. 20 and above is fuel related including injector wiring. IDS will pull it's current software then you can upload that, or you can do an as build with it. Just an fyi.
I feel like the injector should have been checked for open/short/resistance…
Try using 2 metre heater hose as a stethoscope to listen for exhaust leaks.
Annoyed light? 🤔😁
Computer enthusiasts have been fighting the microchip shrotage for a little while now.
We can't buy upgrade or replacement parts for our computers.
And the ECM chip problem is so severe that there are purpordedly lots full of factory perfect cars that can't be sold because no ECMs or BCU or other control computers.
All ford engines is dying!
Nothing like waking up and seeing a video from ray and football sunday good day. Thanks ray seriously i am learning alot
For years my noid light has been a timing light but I suppose that won't work for coil on plug. My go-to for coil on plug is to simply swap with another cylinder to see if the problem moved.
If that's how he/she keeps the vehicles interior, not surprised it runs like sh1t !
Good diagnostic.
Wow, no dividing wall between driver and cargo area, that would be fun during a front collision… That's a big no no here in the Netherlands… 😅
You should bye a J2534 Passthru device.. You could have easily programmed a second hand pcm with ford FJDS to flash vin and program pats or Even used Forscan to do pats function enough to start. Other then that great video I will be subscribing to your channel…
Actually most ecms can be reprogrammed including the vin number you just a dealership reprogrammer computer to do it. In my area it generally costs about 200 dollars.
Send off the computer for repair, most of them can heat manage it better and keep it from frying again in the future. Also, no reprogram needed.
Shows just how new technology doesn't always move us forwards when there is an disruption. If this Van were 20 years old (probably much less) this could have been fixed by now. We are putting too many eggs in our Chinese basket. If we ever go to war with China the US is going to grind to a halt in days.
Ebay. You will find a rebuilt one. Any Snap on reader can do it. Ive done them on Jeeps.
The PCM was detecting a misfire on that cylinder and disabling the injector to prevent damage to the catalytic converter. That’s why there was no injector pulse then you had injector pulse when you restarted the engine. Basic Ford powertrain control module strategy. Probably just needed spark plugs and coils.
This guy is a diagnostic genius.
Can't believe people bring their vehicles that messy into to a mechanic
Total minutes watched of your entire channel on a monthly cycle is what gets your channel exposure…