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In this video I bring you along as I have a look at a customers 2010 Honda Odyssey that has an issue with the power tailgate. It won't open with the handle or with any of the buttons. He replaced the latch and the module and now we have to see what is really wrong with it. -Enjoy!
Similar problem on Mrs.O's Van : https://youtu.be/D0HFXiFyeTc
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.

There viewers welcome back to the self made auto channel. That's a 2010. It it's the hondu. It's the odyssey uh.

Evidently the rear hatch doesn't and it has a little symbol on the dash uh. The guy shot a few uh used parts at it tried. A new latch tried a new control module. Evidently and uh nothing has worked so.

He said well doesn't want to throw any more parts at it so i thought we'd give it a shot and see if we can make it work for him so nothing really happens when you pull the handle there. I'll see make sure it's not locked. So that's locked that's unlocked. We'll just see if it feels any different don't imagine it does now so it does it does feel like it's locked uh to me.

And i'll show you the symbol on his dash here let's see oh yeah. It was this symbol down here. It's a little tailgate up exclamation point. That's a box of goodies here.

So it looks like yeah. I guess these are the original parts. So that's the control module and this is uh. The latch here so i think first and foremost uh.

I'll go back there. He's got the little panel off it back there we can take and pop the thing open just kind of a little visual inspection. Maybe we can even look at this and then we're going to have to look at some services. See how this little guy works.

Honda's pretty cool because they do have a little access panel here. I think i've showed this before on a honda pilot. Perhaps. I think they had a latch that was bad or something.

But you take the little cover off and there is a little lever in there that you flip and you can you know at least get your gate open manually. But i noticed that's all it does when we push the close button. I feel. It's kind of hanging out of there it gates look a little rough um.

But still you know opens and closes mechanically. Just fine. I think before we dive too deep into the service data. Uh being that it has its own control module.

It appears um. You know we'll look on scan data to see. If there's anything here. That you know pertains to the tailgate might give us some clues as we're looking at service data.

So i'm going to let this scan first and see if we can talk to you know tailgate module or whatever honda refers to it as okay. Lots of codes. I'm assuming this is power tailgate and it is power tailgate. So we're going to skip all the other codes right now and just go to it unless.

There's like you know communication type you know errors and we'll go through and read everything out so we'll pull the codes here and tailgate closer unit full latch switch circuit malfunction power tailgate motor clutch circuit male function in a short and rear mode control motor circuit so let's enter this we have three permanent codes. Um. And now i know he's been back here fiddling with stuff so i don't know how many of these are relevant so we're to do this um. It automatically saves them so i'm just going to take so.

As i press. Ok clear. Body codes are not cleared. Oh okay.

So if it doesn't clear it tells us how to clear them so we're going to see if they do clear out. And see okay so it came back with just two short and rear mode controls motor circuit and power tailgate motor clutch circuit malfunction so i think this is you know probably where we'll start we'll look on service data and see you know see what we can learn so. This is kind of interesting. I was uh just looking at service day.

I've printed out the code sweating to keep using the scan tool this short and rear mode control motor circuit sounds funny because it's you know has to deal with the hvac unit. You know the actual rear mode control motor for changing panel to vent to floor uh. Why it's showing up in the tailgate control module well i'll tell maybe i don't know this is the one where actually after this 1389 uh power tailgate motor clutch circuit malfunction so i looked in service data. So we could get a connector diagram and kind of see what it says about it and then i print this out an actual wiring diagram.

So you can see it so here's this power. Tailgate clutch. And i highlighted the two wires. And that went along with uh or goes along with service data.

And they're saying you know to make sure. It's actually a hard fault code. And then check for continuity between tailgate control unit. Connector.

B. That's a 20 pin terminal. 9. And number 20 and body ground individually.

They want to see if it's shorted um. Yeah okay so i go along with that uh they're short to ground and then i think they have you do some other checks to see if it has you know power at the connector. But i think what we could do it's a this tailgate clutch. I assume.

It's some sort of solenoid. We can check for you know short to ground if we want or we can check to see if you know is this continuous through there and you know is this you know this clutch. Does it you know 10 ohm something like that you know whatever it doesn't give us a spec on it. But is there continuity through the clutch.

Does it have the ability to function. Fortunately for us. This fella said. This van tour part so.

Here's the control. Module. Here's connector b. And i do see the gray wire in the blue wire.

So pin nine and pin. 20. Which goes to this clutch or which go to the clutch. We'll get our meter up here.

I don't know if you guys will be able to see it. But i'll give you a shout out to what it is i think the pins are big enough that we won't need anything special so hold that there we'll just see if it has a short to ground kind of doubt that it does. But so nothing on that one which is good and then pin. 20.

Which is the second one in or nine likely touch it there nothing there. But i want to see more importantly do they have because they have continuity through it and it does and about 7. Ohm. 69.

Go figure. And that's kind of what i would expect on a solenoid. So it's going to excuse me draw you know an amp and a half two amps. If that's how that functions so that's interesting and then i guess over right here this connector.

I think this said something about uh okay so right from a fuse to 17 20 amp. Hot at all times. That comes down and goes to pin 12. And it's white.

So let's see the pin. 12 is supposed to be in a corner. According to this diagram pin. 12.

Is up in a corner next to a blank and there's one right there. So there's a white wire pin. 12 let me just see if there's a ground on this connector. Too that we can utilize and there is pin eight nope sorry yes pin.

18 is a ground okay so pin. 18. Which is black that's the third one in on one of the ends. Am.

I missing it here second maybe maybe i'm wrong maybe. It's uh let me double check this folks here b. 18. Supposed to be next to a gray that's interesting i do see the wire.

But it doesn't appear to be in the correct pin. I mean i doubt anybody's been back here moving this stuff. Sometimes aftermarket diagrams aren't great um well. I tell you what instead of trying to use that ground just in case.

Our diagram's wrong. I did bring a test light here we're going to back probe into the one that we know is power or supposed to be power and then we'll just check it on the ground here okay so we have no test light so it tells me we have no power here at our module. So we probably ought to run up there and check the fuse just to be on the safe side. Oh.

No i'm sorry the ground is pin number 19. So that is correct not 18. So this is the ground okay. So i guess we can just stick this right in here.

So we're going to stick one end of our test light in the ground back probe at the other end and the one that's supposed to have full time battery power. And we'll just leave that there and now we can run up and find where this fuse is it says. Driver's under dash fuse box left kick panel. Fuse.

17. 20. Amp. Let's go find that fuse 17.

I'm guessing in here. 17. Ptg. Closer power tailgate closer uh.

Let's figure out how this thing goes. So. We've got some open holes. There um upper.

Sometimes fuse box stuff can be a little confusing. Uh. Let's see so we have a seven and a half a 20 20. 20.

20. 20. 20. And then a blank.

And then a 10 15. 10. Okay yep. So okay.

So this is the way it goes goes like this you hold it like this read it like that i don't know what you guys can see down there. But let's get us a good ground here. We'll go right on the bracket for the parking brake. That should be a good ground.

Sure would be a shame. If you drove it this far with a bad fuse or misinfused and we were doing number 17. So starts out at number 12. So 12 13 14.

15. 16. 17. All right we have power on both sides.

So that's good and that was right next to a 15 15 10. Okay yeah. So i just want to make sure we're on the right fuse uh. What we should do is pull that out make sure the fuse has both legs on it and then we're gonna need i'm guessing because we don't have power back.

There. We're gonna need a diagram that perhaps there's a connector between here and there that one doesn't go through the flex joint on the door uh. The other thing we can do too proof of concept before we go chasing any kind of broken wire uh. We can put power to that thing.

Which i think that's what we should do i'm gonna get a pair of pliers make sure somebody didn't play a trick on us and cut the leg off the fuse and then uh and then we're gonna run power to that module okay nobody did any kind of funny business as far as chopping that fuse off. Oh. I don't think we'll need that i did hook up our power probe. We can make sure that our ground here is good so i'm still hooked into the same ground.

We can see we can light up light. So it tells us our ground back here is good definitely missing the. Power however. Oh but you see that we have 959.

Volts. So that must be well that tells us something. What's that tell us that tells us that's not ghost voltage. Not that kind.

But that's going to help us out i think in our diagnosis. Because let's see let's just get something random here well. I need something random can't find anything random. But ghost voltage.

You know i would expect to see it kind of bouncing around you know near at around zero. Just kind of doing. Silly things but you can see this here is like 1116. Volts 1119.

Somewheres in there but that's not near enough it's voltage. But it does it can't carry current we proved that with a tesla supposed to be a 20 amp circuit. We can't light a 2 amp. Light or one and a half amp light.

I'll show you a little something here. I'm thinking so i'm going to back probe. This and this is where a multimeter can get you because if we stick our meter on here because this is not high impedance. I bet.

If we stick this one on here i bet we're going to see probably battery voltage or close to it i'll hold i don't know if you guys can see that hopefully you can that's that's going to be my guess because it's more high. Impedance so there we are 1267. Volts so if you're using your. Meter.

128. Volts. Because i've got the battery tender on it if you're using your meter. You're gonna be like yep.

We've got battery voltage. Where it needs to be but let me show you a little trick. Here folks. There's battery volt.

Let's see let me just stick this. Somewhere where it stays wedge that behind here so 1281 volts. I'm going to touch this with my finger. I bet we can pull it down now there's 12 and it's coming down slowly.

Because i got pretty high resistance in my body 11 3. 11. 2. 11.

1 11. 10. I take my hands back off and we go back up to 13 volts lick. My finger here a little get a little more conductive or take this finger.

Because it's a little shorter and i can reach over here a little less resistance to those fingers. But you can see i'm pulling it down to nine volts so that tells me we have you know voltage that that can't carry current. So uh don't be tricked by your meter. If you're testing circuits that are designed to carry current test them with a substituted load that you know is going to work.

So. There's one lesson for us it doesn't fix the problem on the car. No but it gives us a lesson so we're going to back probe. This try to do this or shorten anything out here.

We'll take and back probe that because like we need to plug this back in to provide power to it so that's probed back in i brought us out a jump wire. Because i don't know if we're going to have to clear codes or what we're going to have to do to make the tailgate function. I'm going to hook that on there and then the other end of the jump way i'm going to hook. It on my power probe.

I don't think i could go up and smoke going to turn the beeper off. I'm going to provide power to it i'm just going to hold the power to it i've got the scan tool here. I'm going to take and we're going to clear the trouble codes erase codes. Kion engine off okay let's just see here i want to see if the code disappears.

And the code is now gone. Um. Let me go get the very lovely misses. Though.

See if she can well. Actually you know what i can use the scan tool here. I'll go to active test. I'll go to drive motor.

I don't know if that's going to work and then i'm going to hit close. Yeah. That's not doing anything um. Let me go get the very lovely misses.

Though actually i might have enough wire. Here oops nope just lost it so i don't know if it generates a code here or not. But i'll keep this on here. I'm going to keep 12 volts fed to it you stay right there.

I'm gonna push the button out here if it does anything now we probably need to do some reset. It manually let me uh let me get full time power running let's see if it fixes it. But we might have some other issues. Too i close the door manually.

I think we'll come up here. Yeah. I see his lights off. We'll turn the key off let's see here open and close this door turn.

The key on make sure everything's unlocked. And then oh hey look at that i heard it okay proof of concept. It works it opens. It closes.

Okay so now we know whatever it is we need to know we know we have missing power at the module. We have it at the fuse so it should yeah and it works back here. Now and then this button back. Here should work too how you like my trigger huh vice grips baby all right that opens it closes.

We gotta open it back up so i smell lunch so i'm gonna go eat lunch and then i think they make a latch switch for this power probe for i don't have one. We're gonna come up here and shut the key off because we don't need the key on anymore so there i think that was pretty easy at least. We now we know what's going on and we can call the customer and say here's what's going on fella and we need more time however we have diagnosed. I'm going to take this take this little sketchy scene apart here before something bad happens.

But on this diagram. And it's getting old things starting to suck can't see as well as i used to uh. But the power it just shows it coming straight down and straight in. But this is a color diagram and these are good for doing quick little troubleshooting things.

But we're gonna need a real diagram from hondu because i doubt that that wire runs from that fuse box straight back to here. And that's it no connectors. No nothing i'm assuming that there's a connector. My experience with hondu tells me that there's probably a lot of connectors or at least one would be helpful because we need to break the system down.

Now. Where's the wire broke. Which in this case. The wire is not broke.

We know that we're dealing with corrosion because we have a voltage back here we have 1266 volts. We're dealing with corrosion if it was ghost voltage. We wouldn't see that because it's somewhat connected. We know that for a fact because when we touch our finger on it touch it the ground it doesn't pull it straight to zero it pulls it to eight or nine volts.

It can probably flow very very little current through it so definitely a corroded wire corroded connector. I bet the farm on it only because we have facts to follow so i'm gonna eat some lunch with the lovely mrs. Though what's up ah. I knew it i knew you were coming probably just telling people so we'll go eat lunch with her and then uh carry on find out where the green crusties are living today.

The lunch is over and i printed this out some stuff printed this out the factory wiring diagram and you can see we were after fuse 17. Which is a 20 amp. Which it shows on the factory diagram. But what it didn't show on our color diagram is this important little fact right here.

See how this here. Indicates. There's a connector pin. One and pin two of connector c.

Like charlie seven zero two. So. I said. Where is c702.

So i printed out the connector pin view because they were supposed to be pinned. I think it said pin one and pin. Two which that doesn't make sense because that could be wrong. Because here's c702 um.

And it says behind left rear side trim panel connects four wiring harness left rear branch to rear wiring harness left branch uh the pin numbers may be wrong. But we can see that we have uh wires. Here pertaining to power tailgate pin four and pin. Five see those are yellow blue white black let's see what color they are here let's just make sure we're on the right direction here this one is white blue and white.

So the wire. We're after is the white one because that's the yeah. What am i talking about here. We don't want white blue.

We don't care about that we want the white wire. Which shows it cavity one yes okay i was thinking. I was thinking of testing that clutch is what i was thinking of so yeah. So this is what we're after it's pin one the white wire fuse.

17 driver's side so missing my train of thought here and then here's what we needed to find is where is connector c702. It's on here somewhere it looks like it's going to be up in this wheel arch. And i think we should find right here on this list. So this is number six c702 mail.

Number six. It's not on my image. Because must be i was zoomed in too much uh let me see so we only know which ones. It's not let me go look at my computer.

I didn't look before i printed this for you let's meet connector number six. We'll see if it's towards the back the middle wherever the heck. It is but either way. I think all this trim here has got to get tore off and get after it so there you go.

There's number six oh. It was missing up my diagram because i did it wrong. But yeah so it's right here in the very back corner. Oh maybe we can just pop that trim back a little bit.

At least. See you know are we missing. Power. There.

The evidence is pointing towards corrosion. So i'm hoping that perhaps we just have a corroded connector. Now all this stuff was already off when the fella dropped it off so that's kind of nice because we don't have to put a lot of things back we just we put them back kind of how we found them oh looks like somebody's been in here fellas. I see some clips that are kind of funky well.

There's a little panel down here for the jack you got your jack tools down there i wonder if that's i just wonder if we can see the connector that we need to see like right here some kind of module here. I don't see i think. It was going to be around this area right. I just thought maybe we could see it without.

There's a connector here. Remember we did a video with mrs. O's van. I think her airbag light was on because the connector had gotten some soda or something in it let's see about popping this thing back.

Oh. This thing's already broke down here. Just wondering if we can uh screw them into a bunch of junk in there a bunch of stuff. There now we should take the threshold off the back.

Oh you know what i bet the wiring. Okay yeah. It's inside the other behind this metal panel here so we will have to take this off because i can see some connectors inside the panels. And it does look pretty crowded and crusty back here.

Okay and then there's uh. There's a little dust shield here so i'm gonna take and pull the threshold off. We're gonna get this panel off so we can hopefully find that connector and at least isolate half. The system pretty fair amount of rust and corrosion going on back here folks.

I think. According to our diagram because if you look back here there's a module that sits right here and it's it's one big giant chunk of rust uh. If i remember right these hondas used to have some problems with where the sliding door cable comes through the quarter panel. And they have a tendency to leak a lot of water back here um.

So we're going to take this sliding door control unit out here because i think our connector. We need to get to is right there. But i kind of would like to stick this to the side. If i could or at least give us some room to get our hand back in here because we at least need some direction.

You know where we heading with this thing is our wire. Good up to this point try to get this thing pushed through here a little bit. There we go yeah baby is that our connector. I think.

It is i think. That's what it looked like what's up mrs. Though oh yeah. A thing.

It printed out yeah. It's over on my computer. Oh okay. I thought.

It was yours. And not mine. I just lost. The money shot.

Mrs. Oh oh. The money shot. I was tipping around trying to find the round so there's our wire.

It's all corroded dang. It huh. I usually show the people the money shot. I'm always like boom boom boom yeah this thing here recreate it either what's that baby and you can't even recreate it either no we only do stuff live.

We don't do these pre diagnosed. Like blah blah blah. There's a lot going on back here. In this corner.

Folks. A lot of dirt a lot of rust. A lot of corrosion um. All right did you need.

Eric yeah. I always said help out guys sorry you guys missed. The money shot um. I should pull the fuse.

If we're gonna do this here's the easiest way you cut it there leave these connectors right along my guy because if you touch them you're gonna open up a can of worms you never wanted to open. I'm going to take the green snot here off this one which there it is there's your money shop for you best. I could do um man spin this way around where we can get a hold of it hopefully kind of an awkward position because you guys i need to move you folks into a better position. I don't know if it's better for you.

But it's better for me. I think it's better for me let's see now we're actually kind of close making it weird again so this explains a lot this explains why we had our voltage. That couldn't carry current right. See how we followed the facts.

And the fact of the matter is we've got a crowded up wire. And then we're going to strip her back. We're just going to add a little section here. We're just going to bypass the connector and then that will fix the customer complaint with no power tailgate and then we'll let them know what the connector was here because i think this connector has some other stuff in it parking aid centered or something so strip that back let's go get a piece of wire.

Almost you know we got enough here to just we don't even need a piece of where we can just bypass. It and still be in good shape. We don't want that touch metal. Because this circuit's still hot right now so let's get this thing bypassed kind of a weird spot with you guys in my way.

So we're going to use it's a crimp and seal connector. I think ultimately the rear. The real problem on this vehicle is you know the water intrusion back here that has happened over years and years and years. But you know what are you gonna do it's uh.

You know it's an upstate new york vehicle tailgate's pretty rusty stuff like that we'll just uh. We'll just bypass. It no sense in fixing the where the water came from or you know accumulated crude over the years it's not like it's standing water vehicles. Not all musty and nasty.

It's just it's too late ain't no saving put the old girl on hospice and run her to the end baby sounds bad. Saying. That doesn't well. It's the cold.

Hard truth folks. There we go we're still toasty. It's getting hard. Though we let that cool down.

We're just going to click it back in there's plenty of wire. It's not a big deal chances are there may be at some point in its life. If other wires in there are getting corroded and start creating other problems you have to bypass that whole connector but click that back in the hole get this thing back. I'll put the screws in that put screws right to it and then we're done i'll put the plastic back on and we'll go about our day of fixing cars oops you missed the mark on that one fella closed captioning.

Not and available on it i'll let the guy finish finish the rest. I don't know what else he has unhooked or unplugged or whatever there. But i think the vehicle is happy now left to start make sure. There's no more lights on i was looking at the circuit.

Here and it looks like in the connector. The rest of those wires in there pertain to the power tailgate. So three of them go. The power.

Tailgate um. Another full time power. And then some parking and backup sensor systems. It says for some of the other wires.

So uh perhaps at some point in another life. They'll have some other issues back there. But there's a lot of corrosion and a lot of stuff going on in that rear quarter. If i remember correctly um.

These honda's used to have issues there i've fixed some of these uh in the past or had some come in with some water intrusion issues. And it's where that cable comes out of that quarter panel and you know fill up the drain fills up and the quarter fills up and the cars get full water and stuff like that so i've seen some issues there not too often probably not as much as like body guys do or you know stuff like that but i think we did the right fix for it used some logical deduction to find out uh. What the problem was and then just kind of got lucky as far as finding you know it was broke at the connector. But we knew we were dealing with some corrosion knowing hondas.

I typically don't have wiring issues as far as chaffage and just random breaks. Usually there's problems at connectors app. Modules you know stuff like that and like i say. I think we did.

A video similar to this with mrs o's van back when she had the hondu with an airbag light on and it was a connector in one of the quarter panels. If i remember right and it had some kind of sticky substance in it like soda because if i remember right it was below a cup holder. Which. I was like oh well no kidding.

You know we got three kids that are animals. And you know could have got something in there. So that's that i want you to get into that comment section. The questions.

The comments the insta the facebook and uh wherever else we are on the world wide web additional viewers. If i can do it you can do it thanks for watching.

97 thoughts on “Honda odyssey: power tailgate stopped working”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Glen Fair says:

    I don't know about the newer power probes but on the older ones you could reverse the alligator clips at the battery and the little alligator clip turns hot instead of a ground. then you could just clip it on to your jumper wire and have constant battery voltage without having to hold the button down.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Aaron Encinias says:

    Youโ€™re the man Eric

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Travis Hall says:

    Hey Mr.O I have a suspicious question. My buddy just had his 1 year old winters taken off and they said his ribs were misaligned and they kept the tires. I've never heard of that and can't find any info about it. Did he get ripped off? I want to be sure before I suggest he doesn't go back to that shop. Thanks.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nate Tallman says:

    I wish I could get service data for just my three vehicles without paying a hefty subscription fee. Kind of kind buying the old Haynes/Chilton manuals.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Clifford Sandefur says:

    Great video, Keepem coming.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John LaCroix says:

    WOW incredible very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars wattie1050 says:

    Another great diag Eric and repair, customer should have came to yourself before loading the parts cannon ๐Ÿ‘ . I work in the power industry and have saw a few folk caught out with using a meter instead of the loaded test lamps and missing the high impedance fault on the incoming supply.Great work and explanation.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Big Bear Venom says:

    The soda deal with your wife's car was further forward right around the seat belt area where the soda got down inside the connector on the right side I thought middle seat cup holder.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Brandon Hawkins says:

    Butโ€ฆbut you didnโ€™t use the load pro! ๐Ÿ˜‚

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rubbishcop says:

    Excellent work finding the fault.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert Macadangdang says:

    Love watching your show

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RAY DIAZ says:

    I know you probably hate California but damn. I wish you were here cuz you're a good electrician man why you broken wires. I'm glad you found it.๐Ÿ˜€

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Roger N says:

    As you said Eric this getting old stuff sucks trying to see the paper you had in the back. Iโ€™m not sure your age but when it starts itโ€™s called 40 itus sometimes begins late 40โ€™s or later when it does it gets bad enough for cheater glasses. Pain in the but to work in the kinda places you do. I had many tight places to work in even when the glasses are on.
    Your right it does suck !! Always great work, really enjoy the training sessions. Thanks !!!

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mongomay1 says:

    Agricultural electrical systems have similar connector issues with all the solidstate controls and canbus comms

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jeremy Bowen says:

    The rust on that tailgate…yikes.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jeffry Blackmon says:

    I like your use of real electrical loads (light bulbs) to test circuits. Time for me to whip up a few for myself. Super video!

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Justa Hasbeen says:

    We missed the money shot. That's okay, I'm sure Mrs O will get on camera again in the future. ๐Ÿ˜… ๐Ÿ˜‰

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Al Whitesell says:

    I bought some heat shrink and solder butt connections on Amazon and I have found them to be easy to use in tight spaces. Both stripped ends of the wire go to the middle of the butt connector you shrink the ends then a lighter or heat gun will melt the solder. No crimpers required.

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars FX World says:

    Your skills are amazing, we are learning from probably one of the best teachers, Thank You & Mrs. O too

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BIG GUY SIMPLE PRODUCTIONS says:

    Scenario number two you fix their car it runs great you put in four fucking hours and you charge a very very reasonable rate and they scream and cry and bitch and whale saying you overcharge them blah blah blah under this Ford dealer this fuck fuck it have you got that one yet I bet you have l
    Johnny under the Sun says he could fix my fuel pump for 200 bucks and a jerk job

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BIG GUY SIMPLE PRODUCTIONS says:

    Do you ever tell people it's going to cost 200 bucks just because I looked at it and I tested it and that's fair and they scream and cry and fall to the ground and you have to deal with that crap

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BIG GUY SIMPLE PRODUCTIONS says:

    I'm a regular fucking shade tree mechanic trying to figure out what the hell these guys four hours from my house by the way it was a long journey I'm trying to figure out what the hell they did I'm in Des Moines they're in Kansas City they can do whatever the fuck they want and charge me whatever the hell they want because I have no choice in the matter that sucks do you ever run into that with your own private practice sir

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BIG GUY SIMPLE PRODUCTIONS says:

    Firestone said they replace my fuel pump. I can already tell they didn't drop the tank I think they may have cut the wires and cheated which I would have done the same thing by the way but they charged me $1,300 bucks those motherfuckers crown Vic gas tank fuel pump died side of the road they charge me 1300 bucks give me back my car and I'm going to seriously inspect the belly side more seriously I already know they did not they never dropped the tank on my crown Vic so did they just cut the wires and pull out the module and change the fuel pump or or did they just change the computer that sends a signal to the fuel pump because they said that went to shit as well I didn't even know there was a computer that gives the fuel pump commands

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BIG GUY SIMPLE PRODUCTIONS says:

    Holy crap 30 minutes of your ass Mr oh you know I love you but damn skippy you better throw in mrs o one or two times and shit talk Napa every 10 minutes

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars gerald guyette says:

    Eric , its like you can smell those green crusties . You have a gift and I love watching the process . Enjoyable !

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Anthony Thomas says:

    Can you please help me fix me Chevy impala SS I will personally tow it 700 miles!

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bill Stathakos says:

    What a great lesson with the multi meter,

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mike Brown says:

    I used to have a Chevy Venture with power sliding side doors. They always opened and closed fine doing it manually but the contacts needed what seemed like constant cleaning for them to work automatically. After cleaning them several times, I said screw it and just opened and closed them manually. Even I'm not lazy enough that I need power doors or lift gates lol! This one obviously needed to be repaired though since it wouldn't open at all.

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Chris blankenship says:

    Eric where did you get the test light with the channel lock pliers on it or did you make it! Thatโ€™s awesome keep up good work pal

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Alex Tipple says:

    Thanks!

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jw '46 says:

    Splendid!

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tim Winters says:

    Since I'm a fellow subject of the ACP (American Communist Party) of the Peoples Republic of New York in the disenfranchised county of Orange, and since I hold you in high regard as a diagnostician and technician; I'd like to share a secret to connector rejuvenation. Back when I was doing a lot of work with computer control and signal processing, I found I could clean up much of the noise in analog signals generated in connectors with the various DeoxIT products. A cleaning with D5 and a spray of G5 even removes most of the annoying resistance in Fluke VOM lead banana plugs and jacks. For automotive connectors, I'd add a final coating of SN5 Shield to prolong the oxidation and corrosion protection. Excellent products, not cheap, no affiliation.

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Half-inch-holes says:

    SOUTHMAINAUTO plates! Must be a superfan!

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars buffsheeri says:

    Even Hondoos have their weak spots

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Keith Wolstenholme says:

    How can I get one of those South Main Auto plates?

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars phil3999 says:

    Good video

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Wesley Pulkka says:

    Ya ditched the bibs but still the best diagnostics on you tube! Long time watcher short time retiree.

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Green Cuts Property Service LLC Bill says:

    Nice job Ericโ€ฆ.

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars j k says:

    South Main Auto shop class.

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 716 auto says:

    Beautiful diag well done Eric as always thanks for sharing ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Les Reeves says:

    Hey Eric youshould have been an auto electrician you seem to diagnose heaps of wiring problems & they charge like wounded bulls (they deserve it as it is a fiddley occupation).

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stephen F. Selden says:

    ghost voltage…booga booga…๐Ÿ˜„๐Ÿ˜€

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Glenn Hancock says:

    Check the engine battery if too old may not be strong enough to left hatch as I new person had the same problem on ford edge .Glenn.

  44. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars eightball says:

    +south

  45. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mike maifeld says:

    Vise Grip? or locking pliers? that is a question?

  46. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars wayne eddy says:

    What are ya gunnu do? Deoxit and fluid film