In this video I repair a stripped out oil pan drain plug threads. This example is on a Honda 3.5 and it is a semi-common repair in the sjop. I use a Time-Sert kit and in my opinion they are one of the best kits on the market. -Enjoy!
TIME-SERT M14 X 1.50 Metric Drain Plug Kit #1415C: https://amzn.to/2DEFeSf
M14 X 1.50 X 12.7mm Time-Sert Insert Part # 14155: https://amzn.to/2BnYHoE
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South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
TIME-SERT M14 X 1.50 Metric Drain Plug Kit #1415C: https://amzn.to/2DEFeSf
M14 X 1.50 X 12.7mm Time-Sert Insert Part # 14155: https://amzn.to/2BnYHoE
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don't like Patreon feel free to use the "PayPal Me" link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
it is a bad design all aluminum pan but i think every one of those striped bolts that came out with the thread attached had somebody who way overtightened it on the previous oil change
Do you know how to get the stripped plug out? The ahole who did the last oil change put the plug in so tight that the crush washer was squeezed paper thin and out the sides, and could be torn off by hand. The bolt just spins and won't back out. I'm a machinist and have removed many screwed up bolt threads, but I can't put this thing on the mill.
Every Ford ranger I've owned had an aluminum oil pan and I've never had that problem. It is the rush rush oil change shop's. The drain bolt only needs 20 Ft lbs, not some meathead trying to do on arm pull ups on the wrench handle.
I have a 2009 journey with a stripped oil pan plug it keeps turning please let know how to get off the oil pan
I need to get the oil plug off then I'll rethead but how do you get plug off
How do you get the plug out it's stripped I really need help
Nice video but what the heck is a HANDU? 🤣
Should put grease on drill bit and tap,this will pick up metal filings and not let them get into oil pan
Great video.. Question – In the video you used the 12.7 mm inserts.. Why not use the 9.4mm inserts for the Hondas that came with the 1415c kit?
have not been tasked with such a repair on drain pans as of yet but got a call on a 2010 Chrysler 300.. it has "the big 3.5 liter" in it.. Chrysler wants a stack.. uhh, that's a $1,000. Say it's rusted out but isn't that an al-you-men-e-um pan as well?
Sir how get ole one out oil pan ????/please let me know thanks sir
Did did job. Still leaking any ideas ?
If you put grease on drill it will hold all metal to drill bit, not allowing metal to get into oil pan
My daughters car had this problem, from over-torque of the drain bolt. I just removed the pan, and did a drill and tap to a larger drain bolt. I really didn't even know, this type of fix was out there.
Is this kit only for Honda..
Antiseize compound should save the softest threads.
I have a Time Sert spark plug repair kit. Would that also work?
What firm make this Hong Doo vehicle?
And it's hell I coil, not heelocole
I know this is an old video but my "repair" consisted of a spark plug helicoil insert which is M14*1.25mm (drain plug was M14*1.5mm). I then knocked out the center of an old sparkplug and welded up the resulting hole. Works great. I probably would do it on my new Hondu Passport though..:)
For anyone wondering why this is so common on "Hondoo" well a big mistake people make is not replacing the aluminum crush washer ( with the correct aluminum crusher washer ) EVERYTIME !! if the washer is already crushed and you tighten the plug it puts lots of stress on the weak aluminum pan threads 👍👍
Just hammer in the new plug like they do at jiffy lube.. no need for fancy tools.
Fortunately, I haven't run into the corroded thread problem on an oil drain plug… probably the aluminum interacting with the steel over time… would you recommend pulling some oil or anti-seize on the plug before inserting it on an aluminum pan to prevent it?
I use a vac pump an stick it down the dip stick hole so you do not have to mess with anything
i tapped to a mm plug
walmat striped drain plug on my s10 asses used an inpack wrench on it said they set the tork on it said there trained to do that they refused to fix it
What do you do about all the shavings?
Can I do the same process for a transmission fill plug?
Another great video, just found this one. I think another guide sleeve for the initial reamer, like the one for the tap, would make it easier to keep the pilot hole square to the seat.
The fastest wrencher around.
Again, showing us what a real mechanic does instead of taking the easy way out…
Love your work 👍
nice fix, good job
At $145 for the kit, YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING!!!
That Honduu aluminium, man…
The absolute worst honda to deal with this because of next to no clearance. Unless the threads are destroyed, a 14×1.5 Mercedes plug with viton gasket works great. Single oversized like what was in it with same gasket works too. Usually the first half of the threads are jacked and the very long mercedes plug allows you to grab the back half easily. Just cant have an idiot get ahold of it and crush the plug on. Reason its stripped to begin with. Aluminum pans require much longer plugs than a steel. I've seen many times where a short steel plug was in an aluminum pan. Quick way to pull threads.
18 ft lb on the drain plug
The " reamer " isnt a reamer.
It doesnt remove material.
You said it.
It expands the inner tapered portion on the insert outward to lock it into place in the pan.
They are awesome.
If Honda did this from the factory
He wouldnt get to sell the job.
Then no need to make this video.
Grease on the bit would of caught the shavings
👍👍🌟🌟🌟🌟👍👍
You could have used an electric tool to back the dies out
And now I forget how to actually pronounce Aluminum
A honduuuu ahahahah
I always wondered why Honda was stupid enough to put an aluminum oil pan, yet use a STEEL drain plug…. Makes no sense.. HOT car coming in to get an oil change… Putting a steel plug back into an aluminum pan.. over and over. Which one is going to GIVE/? not the steel plug…. lol…
hmmm so they have a special kit for these? Isn't it the same with a tap and dye kit? Except the INSERT part. I was just thinking to use a tap and dye, clean it up and the bolt. Anyone has knowledge and can give me a tip? So if I use this kit, do I grab the same measurement as the oem threads or I'm basically creating my own by tapping it? Idk if he even use a brand new OEM bolt or had to replace it with another kind that matches this repair
Ring the Bell – Rock the Cloiwn , South Main Auto Fixed it the RIGHT way !
Well, ain't this just the cat's meow. Need to look into this for my Tahoe. Horrid Dealership cross threaded my drain plug and tried to blame it on me. Funny, when it was done at my usual dealership it was done just fine. It still seals even after 15 years, but I'd really like it fixed right. I'm the one that does the oil in that beast now, so I know about it, but one of these times I'll put the plug in and it won't work. so…Neat fix!
The problem isnt it not having a steel insert from the factory because when the aluminum threads come out with the plug its because of galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals.. so whether steel bolt on aluminum threads or steel insert on aluminum threads, eventualy both will give way with the threads.. only way to solve this issue from factory is use an aluminum plug, no steel.. yea itll be a weak ass bolt but you dont need a drain plug torqued with heman powers, just needs tightened to german spec.. goodentite..
That kit you have, is it vehicle specific or Foreign/Domestic type kit ? I have a Chevy Tahoe 5.7 Liter with same problem.