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i just don't like these ETM's. i had one on a Volvo that used 2 sliding potentiometers to convey throttle position. 2 forcredundancy i guess.
During normal cruise the throttle uses the same range of opening all the time.
Those potentiometer tracks had worn away in some places to the point that there was no proper throttle control any longer. the engine would start to vibrate and jerk as the throttle blade would vary position. very annoying. And kinda dangerous IMO
i discovered a Chinesium kit to modify that ETM to where those pot meters were eliminated and replaced by magnetic control. Fixid it!
Why the heck did Magneti-Marelli not make it that way from the get-go is beyond me.

What a rolling pile of junk.

isn't there a recommendation not to move electronic throttle blades by hand… like it might ruin the electrical circuit position tuning or something like that ?

I always enjoy your contact card your repairs jobs very informative keep on rocking

I'm guessing too that the heat from the engine might play a role in expansion where the throttle sticks less after things warm up. Nice job going right to the problem and trying not to fire off the parts cannon.

The throttle body needs replacing. The nylon gears inside the housing have worn and the throttle plate dithers. The issue isn't electronic, it's mechanical.

first time is see a car that shows the codes on the instrument cluster

Your "forced idle" code was the PCM cutting spark on random cylinders to "force" the idle speed down as it was too high in neutral. When you put it in drive idle speed dropped to within limits. The 0% throttle test is usually at key on/engine off before start up. I had a throttle cable bind up on an "old school" gm 3800 V6 many years ago. Not fun turning a corner in heavy traffic and had to key off to avoid a crash…… unless you are on a motorcycle, the throttle cable only opens the throttle, it does NOT close the throttle! ( motorcycle has 2 cables, 1 to open and 1 to close)

Never push open by hand an electronic throttle body to clean it. I learned that the hard way. Destroyed it and got a replacement which fixed the throttle light on a Jeep Commander Hemi 5.7.

To be commended. I feel most shops would have replaced the throttle body, more money in the back pocket. Usually scheduled tune-ups would include a throttle body clean or induction cleaning. Great video! Shows that not all repairs need a parts store. I hope the new generation of techs are watching and learning

Chrysler is garbage? Wait, what? 😂

The cleaner you remember might have been 1,1,1 trichloroethane

That stuff smelled great as it dissolved your lungs (⁠θ⁠‿⁠θ⁠)

Sounds like commifornia laws got to N.Y. . If it works can't use it.

Daddy always told me you have to be double jointed knocked kneed an half crazy to be a machanic do you believe him I do

Even though it was trying to "push one out", it looks like you cleaned out the restriction so that it doesn't have to push so hard! Great video as usual.

I feel like you should at least clean it and give it a shot before replacing it. The throttle body that is, I suppose I shoulda said that part first otherwise you could be like," clean what"?…. And good job Mr. O that is exactly what you are doing right now!!!

Always a learning experience here, I epically fail with the newer computer cars. I miss the days of my youth, no computers, just a points distributor, carburetor etc, no computer crap. Those I can fix. Obd1 I have luck with. OBD2 not so much. Threw a bunch of cash at a P0172 rich code and I think the TCM shorted and blew the eatx 20 amp fuse in a 2002 Neon SE. Now my daily is dead. F me.😬 My diag skills suck, and the parts cannon emptied my wallet.

had rona all i smell is cigarette smoke

I’m still early in the video, but the feeling of misfiring when sitting in idle in park after you had the throttle limp mode is because the ECM is limiting the engine speed down to 1500rpm by shutting off injectors. When the throttle hits limp mode, it will shut the power to the throttle motor off and the throttle will sit at about 10-15% open. When you were pushing the throttle and it revved up to like 2500rpm from 1500rpm, the only thing that was changing on the engine was re-enabling all the fuel injectors (and maybe changing ignition timing). The throttle body didn’t move at all, because the power to it was shut off. It would feel like it smoothed out when you shifted into gear because the additional load of the transmission being in gear was enough for it to be able to re-enable the injector(s) it was turning off and still stay within the rpm range that it was happy with.

Whoever wrote their service data just got fired.

Dr. O another great video as usual. Wish you would have demonstrated more in depth on how you were manipulating the throttle body motors by just attaching jumpers to the battery.

imagine if airplanes only relied on electronics and didn't have the manual cables if something failed

Nice work

There is something to the old school physical wire connected to throttle setup.

Got my Black Hoodie SMA, love it. I have this issue with my Escalade EXT, they say it needs to be rewired to the computer. I think I'm going to try that GUNK first. $600.00 dollar repair.

Can you believe they added Peugeot to this Fiat, Chrysler and Jeep mess?