First Appearance: Dodge really blows! Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 Hemi. https://youtu.be/0gUa-piMnHc
Air Horn Vid
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Air Horn Vid
Check out my Merchandise (because I don't say MERCH) for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers!
https://rainmanraysrepairs.myspreadshop.com/
Support the channel on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage right now
Amazon List, must have for any toolbox!
ATD Tools 13782 10-Piece Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set https://amzn.to/3RV2fUB
Same as Matco. Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
GearWrench Hose Clamp Pliers: Currently Unavailable
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 8 https://amzn.to/3mPnpFA
Gopro Hero 9 https://amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 8 Dual Charger https://amzn.to/3EId84c
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
No wonder your videos look so good
Use a knocker instead of hammer.
Ray I like watching your videos you have helped me to fix all the cars and pickup trucks that I work on. Rusty parts are not fun to work with.
I'm glad your not going to fastnal
I disagree, I'd rather have 2 sets of balls than that plastic thing.
I know O’reillys carries the cam adjustment bolts and the strut bolts. They’re probably only a day out
I have an idea for a salvage business, you take the cars from where they don't rust and the sun bakes interiors. Replace the motors/maybe/interior plastics with rust belt lower uv area cars.?
no Anti Seize with new stuff?
I'm sorry Ray… I found this so hilarious! Up North, we're used to this!
Angle grinder, torch, Go!
Yup. Very normal procedure for an outside kept vehicle in West Virginia. Go ahead and order every part you need to touch because you probably will not easily remove the bolts.
Why not grease the upper control arm bolts for the next time repair! just saying!
Ray, You put one guy on an impact, the other uses a club and whack that puppy!! Good luck.
I used to be a wood chippie I would measure twice cut once and some how always managed to be between 5mm to 10mm out. So I became a Mick han ic instead, with no worries
When I get tired of asking, I roll out my best friend the cutting torch.
How rude was it for office jerk to just walk off while you was talking to him? Love your vid's
I just did a set of front struts on a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the same bolt was frozen just like yours. I was smart and took the advice of Eric O and bought the Astro 4980 also known as Big Nasty a while back. It took about 15 minutes per side. I got them out without much trouble or cursing and know they would not have come out in one piece without the tool. Basically, if the rust belt mechanic Eric O says to get yourself one of these bad boys get one because you won't regret it.
400,000 coming soon!!!!!
Can't get the bolts from a Florida salvage yard?
It lists the proper pronunciation on their website. It is "Ka-nip-ex"
Lots of "flavor" on that dodge
Always good to have an extra set of balls lol 😆
This reminds me of removing the rear leaf springs on my 99 durango to install the lift brackets. spun my bushings and took 3 days of hammering and torching in my apartment parking lot to get them out. same story at the time, I couldn't get the proper bolts for about a month or so. I ended up throwing some bolts from the hardware store with a shim that got me by for the month or so it took to get my bolts in. never had a problem but it is highly recommended to get the proper bolts for these parts instead of something from "fastenall" Like you said….. The thing is that the proper bolts for these assemblies are much stronger than anything you'll get at the store because its solid metal where it needs to be inside the bushings instead of threads. you also have to keep in mind anything you get from the store is probably going to be threaded or partially threaded inside the bushing and on the shearlines of the assembly between the body and the arm, if there's a lot pressure on the threaded part of the bolt because of the shearline of the assembly it'll pop the bolt right in half no matter how strong it is because the shearline is getting leverage and pulls the bolt apart at the threads. dont do a botch job to someone else's cars guys, get the right parts if you're not working on your own stuff. hell even your own stuff, your broken vehicle could kill someone else on the road all because you got the wrong bolt. work smarter not harder.
Never purchase a car from up North.
Where I am we have a nut and bolt warehouse. Grade 8 or better for steering and suspension. I like to use the stovers nice black finish. Our practice is to always use new hardware and torque to spec. I have to admit though since watching Ray I use the old voice click when I can lol.
That thing isn't even rusty.
doge brothers rammstein
3.5 gen or higher is a no thanks from me.
The hillbilly mobile,complete with the hat and tunes.
Ray excellent video on the frustrations suffered on corroded fasteners,Sometimes by applying brake fluid or synethetic hydraulic oil, (Phosphate ester) corroded bolts will free them , as it normalises steel a type of galvanic reaction… also we have this lubricant in a spray can here in Australia that has lanolin in it called Lanotek . It derusts just about everything and penetrates so it doesn't rust again, i have had rusted Padlocks work again and not have to reapply again. Maybe you could find something similar with lanolin in it regards on your videos.
You need the milwaukee high torque it will break those bolts free ive done a few. Or the 1in impact
Not to cut ya down ray cause your a great mechanic, but a little heat, water, bfh and air hammer and you could easily get all those bolts out without cutting them off.
Very enjoyable with the great attitude and sense of humor 👏 I can really relate to those jobs that are not at all as straightforward as may first appear 🥴 thanks for sharing your experiences at work with all the tools I wish I could afford lol 😉
I agree that moog is slipping. Got their mediocre line and a track bar and drag link lasted 2,000 miles.
That shifty rainman, breaking stuff to increase profits! Damn you crooked mechanics!!!!
Man I thought I had a tough time installing these cognito kits for my boss and his friends Chevy 3500hd. But man I feel your pain lol
you can always use an extra set of balls
It really sucks that , this day and age scientist have not come up with a better, cheaper way to clear roads without salt. With all the money each state and insurance companies make from vehicle ownership and purchases, then the owner has to deal with rust and everything that brings with it. Somehow this does seem right.
Pickups have a higher rear so that the bed can be loaded and the ride height is still fairly level… and the headlights won't be illuminating the moon. I know you are just installing customer parts, I just really wish people would stop doing this kind of stuff to their vehicles… vanity is a cruel mistress. Let's just hope the headlights get adjusted soon. Thanks for another great video.
Energy Suspension after market polyurethane bushing kit would solve your problem and make for a better overall completion to your project.
Upper ball joint bolt…. when it stopped, lube and go back on- rinse and repeat. Hell gravity was in your favor.
Again, you should pronounce the K in Knipex.
Hah, this is your average job here on the east coast. Using something like a ball joint press to get bolts like that out is usually a good idea.
Why bother for just 2 inches ?
BOB! ANSWER THE PHONE!!!
How can there be a danger using a non-factory bolt?
Where does Dodge get bolts from, if not a bolt factory, as does the Fastenal joint.
A Gr 10.9 is so, regardless of where it is from.
And why doesn't the factory not use anti-seize on the critical fastener shoulder ?
Shock, shame and confusion surround this repair.
Thanks Ray.
I gotta tell you, this video is basically double entendre from start to finish.
have always used a small smear of grease on the upper joints to assist in the said procedure if the said procedure should ever need to be done again 🙂
You win some, you lose some. Keep up your positive attitude dude, you got this!
Having had to do custom work that factory bolts no longer work for, there are definitely some bolts that I have replaced with the same or better grade of bolt. That being said the bolt store is not going to have the offset alignment bolts that will work, so at that point might as well wait for all oem.
Always look before you agree to a repair
They probably have to order the bolts from Mexico where the trucks are made… Lol
Cam bolt kits are available at Napa and carquest
tip the works for me: have a partner use a breaker bar on the bolt butting pressure counterclockwise and using a airhammer on the other end to try to loosen it. also have had luck with one of those fancy induction coil type bolt heater tools (sorry i dont know the actual name of the tool).
I feel your pain ray. It was deja vue watching you on these bolts. The control arm alignment bolts are proprietory and no other bolt from anywhere will work for the alignment. Those bolts were expensive from local mopar dealer. I cut mine off with angle grinder after about 4 hours of frustration trying to drive those bolts out. You can be assured i antiseized the new bolts when installing.
Why on earth would you not just press new bushings in the arm once you get it out? Must be a lot cheaper than a new alloy control arm. Why not get some heat on the bolt/bush and see if it the bolt can be driven out? This is bread and butter stuff for Eric O up there in the rust belt. And BTW, the new upper arm centre would be a couple of inches lower with the new higher struts installed. They should not be tightened until the weight is on the wheels (when you do the alignment)?
Would you not sanded and repaint some of those parts ? You know damn well it takes a little longer for a way better job? If not those parts won’t last another 50k
the minute i saw the lower strut bolt not require the use of a wrench to get that nut off i was like that there truck needs some control arms now
Call me crazy but….. what's wrong w/ just the bolts from the junkyard? It's still factory….u could even get the lowers as a "for now" just so u can still drive it and replace em w/ new when they finally come in.
45 days for a cheezy bolt? You would think that connectors would be readily available.
Way way cheaper to just put a few sacks of concrete into the bed of the truck until you find level. 😂😂😂
Doodly do escalated real quick to GET THE PHONE! 🤣
At least its dodge 🙂 cod got a little more like a chevy glad it's not a poo poo ford
The correct answer was, "Yes, you CAN use brake-clean on a carpet. But nobody should."
I have never heard of fasten all, but I am sure that the northern mechanics are having a good time watching you with one of their cars.
Leave it as is. If the front end is lower than the rear you are always going downhill. Much like big tires on the rear and small on the front. Simple physics. I went to school with people who believed this.
Oem bolts only. Easy call.
LOL Ray, you said it all when you stated “I’m not going to ‘cobble’ this together”…when talking about front end suspension parts.
I’ve seen way too many guys try to that and end up regretting it!
Up here in NH we always add an hour to book time to account for rust. It's a nightmare
There's gotta be a way to remove those bolts without cutting them.
Nip-x. Best tool in the box
My leveling kit for my 2004 ram 2500 ended up costing me about $2000 after needing upper and lower ball joints, sway bar links and might as well put new u-joints in since we're that far into it and shocks, oh and then the alignment.
That was humorous; I can't be summoned like some dog, or god. Is dog backwards god? Tell me down in the comments.
I hope You Torqued ALL TOO SPECS, NOT JUST IMPACT TIGHT. you didn't say if you did.
Must be a former canadian truck
I agree about the moog so now if u buy their cheapest is it even good . I used to feel safe when putting their parts on my truck now I don't know how I should feel by putting the cheaper moog parts on n so I think it's time to find another company. I used energy parts before n they was good
Why no coffee cup that says:
Beeeeyoooooo…..powered down
Or DooDdEE DLEEdl oooo
On the side? Or inside
Dealers choices
it’s so odd that the first vid i watched from you, the foliage and sky instantly reminded me of florida. and then i saw the plate and had an “aha” moment.
I’m glad I did my truck lift when it was new…
On the topic of waiting months for parts: I am the parts manager at a collision repair shop. I deal with this every day. Waited 3 months for a radiator support. Every time the ETA the vendor gave me got close, they would tell me it would be another few weeks every time I called. Finally got tired of it and kept calling dealers all over the country, trying to find one that would ship to me in North Texas. After 24 phone calls (kept track for the fun of it) I finally got one from California. I think I paid almost as much in shipping as I did for the part
Moog is not the same as it was. The 04-08 TSX Moog parts are really hit or miss
I was half expecting all of the flashlights to fall off of the truck either one by one, or all at the same time because that would be just Rays luck.
Now this dude has priorities..He's got serious rust in the rear fender but By God he's going spend money to install a lift kit instead. Note to owner-that rust ain't going away.
Clearance Clarence.
I mean there's always the junk yards… since these Ram trucks seem to break down before the 36,000 MI…
I live in the same town as Fastenals brith place and there headquarters. Winona MN
Welcome to the rust belt woes!!!
You need to come to Ohio and do a class on how to heat beat rusty stuck part lol every bolt is usually a struggle up here you can cut the head off the bolt and use the nut to run it out I’ve done that on leaf springs
I wish all sway bar end links were like that. All the ones I've ever replaced are just a shank bolt and you have to wrestle it in place and try to hold it together while lining everything up 500x because you have to keep moving things around and then picking up all the washers and bushings that flew everywhere.
Get snap-on l-672b and trick torch
Are not the driver’s side sway bar holes cracked.
I do not understand the desire for these kits. The second you drop a trailer on your truck, it looks like a dog dragging its arse across your new carpet.
Try some heat
I always use Anti Seize when reinstalling these nuts/bolts.
Lesson learned,,,🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️,,,,never buy a vehicle from up north,,,,,🤯🤯🤯🥹🥹🥹🥹
That same exact bolt put an end to me replacing a cv axle on my Jeep Cherokee. After 2 days of heating & beating I gave up and retreated. Good thing the driver side was the issue. When the passenger side goes out it'll be time to trade it in.
You know if I had a truck that look that good everywhere but that one spot that have it one spot fixed LOL what do I know my truck's 22-year-old what do I know
i remember when i did a brake job on a 2006 gmc canyon. my old truck. i had about 3 hours into trying to break the caliper mount bolts loose. yeah they was seized on there good