Well here we go with part 2. In this video we repair the viscous coupler and get this Kia back on the road for a fraction of the cost of replacing the whole unit!
Looking for part I : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOIJNC42QwI
Copy of TSB: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=C7BE1B571FE20297!1394&authkey=!ADEQY5rImJZqi3w&ithint=file%2cpdf
Now remember this repair is not recommended by Kia and should not be preformed under any circumstance:
Parts Used:
6008-2RSJ - SKF Bearing
710682 - National Seal
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
Looking for part I : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOIJNC42QwI
Copy of TSB: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=C7BE1B571FE20297!1394&authkey=!ADEQY5rImJZqi3w&ithint=file%2cpdf
Now remember this repair is not recommended by Kia and should not be preformed under any circumstance:
Parts Used:
6008-2RSJ - SKF Bearing
710682 - National Seal
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
The driveshaft buthurtness comes from phasing, not balance, necessarily.
If a certain "drive line"
Of components had to be phased and tested and re-phased to find it's optimum feel without fighting itself, it got marked by it's selling dealer, back in the day, ykno, when Richard petty drove a Ford Talladega, the pickups were a good example where the phasing being marked and noted, before servicing its parts, was applicable.
Without it, the truck would hump and thrust. And that could be bad. You would have to "find the phase"
Newer ones could be assembled 180° out of phase within the joining of halves of the shaft. I saw a Boeing guy accidentally do this once and give up.
The wise old man showed me the simplicity of correction perching it on sockets on the floor, first right, then wrong, then right again.
Savvy?
Happy motoring.
With your….engine.
In your motorcar.
Just one thing, the new bearing has covers on both sides like those used on a mower-deck spindle.
On those, they fail fast for lack of lube.
All the lube they have was there during bearing assembly.
If you can remove one cover, grease it, then reinstall that cover, it can last longer.
If it was a mower, you can leave the inner halves of the upper and lower bearing's covers off and facing each other, the bearings can be greased occasionally, by pumping the cavity full where the spindle runs within.
On the Kia automobile, you could reinstall the bearing cover, then assemble the unit with having packed that bearing, otherwise, it's a matter of time, climate, and miles driven.
Your automobile doesn't cut grass and get rained on like a mower, so….
I would have greased it before and put that cover back on over the grease and then driven it into the coil housing.
Just had to point that out. Front wheel bearings on FWD are sometimes supplied without really being greased right also.
I bet you get into those and grease them.
Just like everybody else who does a good and thorough wheel bearing press apart, replace bearing, and back together. With your added grease,
They last alot longer and it keeps water out.
Hana nimi chuk bok.
That means blessings to you, or so I gather
Eric there's nothing like the fact that you can stick it to the man at Kia and tell him to keep their $1400 part
47 ft/lbs
Viscous
I definitely would have pulled that together with the bolts. Good to know.
Eric O. Genius
The Factory just wants you to throw whole assembly's at it. Mercedes is the worst.
I love the attitude of "someone had to assemble it, so why can't we"
Awesome job. Taking care of your customers in every way. Very much return business for you.
This guy has an incredible set of skills, kbowledge. Wish he located near me.
Can you share some customers response when recieved vehicles, it would be nice to see thks
So I know instead of replacing you've torn apart the old coupler and repaired it. This coupler seems to be a common weak point on the 2nd gen ('07 – '12) Santa Fes. I currently own a 2011 that I just had to replace the AWD viscous coupler for the 2nd time in under 6 months/21k kms, thankfully it was replaced under warranty because of a rear-end accident that happened April 2021. However, the new coupler only lasted 3 months before it started showing signs of failure again, shimming/bucking/kicking while under acceleration, and randomly while pulling away from a stop sign/light. It's been mentioned to me in a Hyundai owners group that when replaced, the computer that controls the coupler may have to be reset, so that it knows it's working with a new unit, and not an old one with half worn clutch packs. The replacement was done by an independent shop and not the Hyundai dealer, but there was no mention of having to reset anything by way of computer. SMA, do you know if this person is correct? Is there a procedure that needs to be done, likely by dealer level scan tool, to reset something?
You just opened up a new line of work for you, Good Job…
N.
That's crazy. That lady has a one of kind fix only because someone cared enough to not just stick her with a $1500+ bill just because. What do you think the other Kia Sportage owners are thinking if they see this video? wow.
Thanks for going this extra mile ! I’m sure the customers appreciate it !
Very intresting videos of all these yours car repairs jobs. Greetings from Finland and Good New Year to You. Five Stars for these!
Yesterday it was the kroil now it's the old pigs fat
You actually love jeep or you just like the hat? I feel like that's either your favorite hat or your favorite company
these 2 'viscous coupler' videos are your best videos that i've seen ……it shows how reliance on experience and remembering basic tried and tested techniques plus attention to detail leads to success 9 times out of 10 …..well done
Poorly designed part.
I like the design of that seal. The inner surface that goes on the yoke before the main part of the seal goes in the housing acts as a sacrificial piece so it will be damaged instead of the yoke shaft. Great idea.
Hi Eric, great job and very helpful for my own Hyundai Santa Fe, which is doing terrible “cracks” from the rear diff when turning.
I just removed the rear coupler like in your video.
When moving the “propeller” (in dismantled state, not connected to power) the coupler is closed and the second side is also rotating.
Is this the indicator, that’s it’s broken?
I guess it should be open, when not connected to electrics.
Thanks for your help!
Greets from Germany!
Hi Eric ! I notice you didn’t fill it back with oil .. I’m in the process of putting mine back together and I’m honestly stuck on how the hell to put that 150ml back in there other then tilting the Sportage on its back so the oil stay in the bol .. any tip ?
Learn a lot watching you dismantle and renovate the “unserviceable” part. You are a tremendous teacher.
Wow that's beautiful thanks for sharing this God bless
what a honest guy…
What’s the difference between a viscous linkage and a differential?
Hi, Mr. O. Great pair of videos. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!
Nice job. I have the 2006 AWD 4X4, 2.7L.Good little vehicle. Not made for salt
Well done Eric!
Good to see you working on something you have not done a million times. I liked the view from the "top of Avoca", too. The landscape reminds me of northern Maine.
It’s great to see some good old fashioned ingenuity and common sense. You’re a great and honest tech!
Nice shot of the train.
Great fix now get yourself an hydraulic press better and more control than just bashing.
Somewhere Scotty Kilmer is gesticulating wildly with his hands and screaming "Just buy the new one!" Curiosity is what makes you fun to watch.
good money save on bearing and seal replacement.
Wish more Mechanic's were like this guy
Wearing the same clothes after ratting yourself out…. PRICELESS!!! 😆😆😆
Always great content!!!!
Thanks, Eric!
Thank you for caring about noise and your neighbours. Some small businesses just don't care.
Cut the bearing with a wiz wheel to make a removable press tool to put the seal on.
Ive been a mechanic for 35 years and that reminded me of the old days when we used to fix starters and alternators .
Never use lock-tite on a nylock but because it eats the nylon and the nylock effect of the nut no longer works .
So with the term "viscose/viscous coupler", my thought is that housing should have some sort of oil in it. Am I wrong to think that? Especially with all the seals and o-rings?
You should have cleaned the bearing and welded it back to save the customer more money.
On the driveshaft issue, you HAVE to do a couple full throttle neutral slams to re-seat the splines and U joints! LMAO
"Lemme get the big hammer and start whaling on it" LOLOLOLOLOLOL!
WOOOOOOOOOOOAH, LMAO, you crack me up! AWESOME job!!!
Nice fix ,wish we had you tube when I was younger , I would have learned a lot more, I mostly learned by trial and error