It could be it was something you did without us seeing, so I am assuming you did seal the hole where the wire is coming out of the light assembly. Otherwise moisture could get in.
Love the thought process of reworking the electrical connections to work properly. I which I could find a competent auto Electrican to do the same for my old truck. One thing I not to happy about is the background music needs to be a little more subdued. Other than that, another great presentation! Keep them coming…I’m learning a lot and getting some great ideas for upgrades on the old(ish) Toyota Tacoma of mine..( newly purchased).
I own several high end cars and I have never seen a SINGLE one of my mechanics work like this, thanks for posting these videos so I can coach these folks.
Thanks Ray, nice job. Also you solved an up coming issue for me. As I plan to upgrade to LED lamps because bad eyes. Never thought of using relays as a buffer. I'm definitely using this, Thanks!
Up here in the far North where it’s winter 9 months of the year and very dark for most of it we need that type of head light system. You did a brilliant job… pun intended. You are exactly right with this wiring job. Respect.
This may seem like a lot of work to some of the commenters but I used to have to drive long distances at night in "deer country" and there was never anything I considered "too much light". As a young buck I didn't have a good grip on my throttle control and many times I would overdrive my headlights. There were no such lights as these but there was a brand of headlight called "FlameThrowers" that would burn a black cat naked on a moonless night at 100 yards (a bit of exaggeration here) and there were well worth the money. This was in the good ol' generator (no alternators) days……when you turned them on the ammeter (no idiot lights) gauge would jump to max to feed the things but, boy, you HAD LIGHTS! They could never be as good as these but a drastic improvement over stock from the factory. I don't know how many times they saved my car. I got the FlameThrowers after I totalled my hopped up '57 Ford and they sure did the trick. These lights must be super. Good job, Ray. P.S. God Bless the fella who invented relays!
Lol I have those Fahren LED’s in my high and low beams. They are fucking phenomenal. Make my 2005 look like a 2019 at night. And they’re incredibly bright, I can see much further. They are like $50 for the set of lo and hi Beams and worth every penny, especially because they didn’t cause problems like this in my car.
I would have liked a good sturdy connector in that power line to the battery, maybe an OEM molex type, so the headlight assy isn't hard-wirered to the car/battery. Something that can be pulled back in through the cover. If you want to take the headlight assy over to the bench you are now tethered to the battery
I'd be nervous the relay coils would feed back a high emf spike to the driver module which is looking for a resistive (incandescent) load, not an inductive load, MOSFETS can fail from this if not protected… a diode across the coil might help… or not… fingers crossed there are no problems further down the road…🙄🤞
You may have addressed this in the vid but I can't hear you speaking with the loud music.. 🤔
1. Regardless what you think, RED wire should be secured by the fuse. NOT 120A !!! This is best way to burn the truck. You have multimeter there. Check how much current takes both diodes, fix fuse that is slightly above readings on each cable separately.(for example – reading 5A so you use 7A fuse) 2. Did you know that all cables in cars have doble isolation, no without reason. 3. Personally I would mount this drivers outside of lamp housing to avoid overheating. Temperature test inside lamps recommended. Maybe temperature is less than on regular bulbs, but only maybe. Often multimeters coming with temp probe.
One question. When you first introduced your solution I think you said the ECM would power the relays instead of the bulbs, which would remove the overheated signal. What I don’t understand is why you had to run power directly from the battery if the ECM was connected?
This is the first video of yours I ever watched. I was so impressed with the commentary, problem solving and the repair. This is one of my favorite YouTube channels.
hmmm, I think I would have moved those new power wires to the fuse box (most vehicles have extra fuse slots for add on extras). That way they are fused and don't have a potential of burning up or causing a fire if they get grounded from the lack of rubber gromets/zip loom. Of course, I have no idea what the customer/cost/time and the shop lets you do. I understand about your concerns of adding a bladed fuse holder at the battery (or using the fuse panel), that's still an open circuit from the battery itself . Correct me if I am wrong
You did a great job with that but can you please wait for the back ground music not to play when you are talking make’s it had to hear what you are saying thank you for all your videos
I guess I'm just confused . . . were the FOG LIGHTS LED's as well? Didn't see them getting wired . . . but it doesn't really make any difference. Don't let this go to your head, but I consider your repair work (especially on THIS video) to be approaching God-like proportions ( in the conventional usage of the term ). Just when I think I've seen it all, you pull out another epic.
I hope all of the relays and wires used can handle the current. Real heat shrinkable tubing at the relays and a grommet/seal where the power wire went through the new hole would be nice. The fuse at the battery is great! Were the floods on their own circuit?
I've never heard of this, is it just dodge or are others doing this now, too? One body control module that directly drives many heavy electrical loads like headlights without a relay. What a wonderful idea! Does it directly drive the fan and window motors, horn and stereo, too? What's next, the starter? Who needs a starter relay? Let's save money on all of those costly relays and put everything into one unrepairable and proprietary module! 💲🤣
Although this is another example of why the heck do we have to put a computer to controll everything?? Its HEADLIGHTS. simple 12v system, a switch, a dimmer, and a circuit breaker is all thats needed. Another example of automakers making things overly complicated in the name of being advanced.
The song playing in the background with the same 7 chords was killing me. Damn shame when one of those HID's go out and you have to spend an arm or a leg to get another one that works on the same system.
i have a 2019 300s i find the head lamps dim. Should i be worried about running one of these kits. Also looking at the cover plate with respect to the led fan there doesnt seem to be much room to permit air flow. Might that contribute to the over heating/drawing to much current?
Did you fuse the wires that you connected directly to the battery? Connecting #12 or 14 wire to 125A fuse in a short will cause that wire to light up like the head lights, because that wire can not carry 125A.
The LEDs Should draw far less current than the 3A or 5A OEM Haligen bulbs. But i would check the current on each one. The "drivers" should limit the maximum current that the LEDs can draw but I would have measured the current being drawn before I started. I admire the fact that you go out of your way to make your customer happy.
Those are the kind of headlights that make me hate driving at night. I'm always getting blinded because they are way too bright.
It could be it was something you did without us seeing, so I am assuming you did seal the hole where the wire is coming out of the light assembly. Otherwise moisture could get in.
Love the thought process of reworking the electrical connections to work properly. I which I could find a competent auto Electrican to do the same for my old truck. One thing I not to happy about is the background music needs to be a little more subdued. Other than that, another great presentation! Keep them coming…I’m learning a lot and getting some great ideas for upgrades on the old(ish) Toyota Tacoma of mine..( newly purchased).
Was the guy who made the relay packs colourblind? Yeah white wires work, not going to make life easy for the 99% who can see colour!
I own several high end cars and I have never seen a SINGLE one of my mechanics work like this, thanks for posting these videos so I can coach these folks.
funny rainman 🙂 ← smiley
I've heard a good sense of humour is a sign of high intellect. Is that true?
Just say yes, then we can all go to bed. 🙂
Thanks Ray, nice job. Also you solved an up coming issue for me. As I plan to upgrade to LED lamps because bad eyes. Never thought of using relays as a buffer. I'm definitely using this, Thanks!
Up here in the far North where it’s winter 9 months of the year and very dark for most of it we need that type of head light system. You did a brilliant job… pun intended. You are exactly right with this wiring job. Respect.
Everything you did was fantastic, ,,,crimps????
This may seem like a lot of work to some of the commenters but I used to have to drive long distances at night in "deer country" and there was never anything I considered "too much light". As a young buck I didn't have a good grip on my throttle control and many times I would overdrive my headlights. There were no such lights as these but there was a brand of headlight called "FlameThrowers" that would burn a black cat naked on a moonless night at 100 yards (a bit of exaggeration here) and there were well worth the money. This was in the good ol' generator (no alternators) days……when you turned them on the ammeter (no idiot lights) gauge would jump to max to feed the things but, boy, you HAD LIGHTS! They could never be as good as these but a drastic improvement over stock from the factory. I don't know how many times they saved my car. I got the FlameThrowers after I totalled my hopped up '57 Ford and they sure did the trick. These lights must be super. Good job, Ray. P.S. God Bless the fella who invented relays!
the driver on the bulb should be probably place in an air stream
Lol I have those Fahren LED’s in my high and low beams. They are fucking phenomenal. Make my 2005 look like a 2019 at night. And they’re incredibly bright, I can see much further. They are like $50 for the set of lo and hi Beams and worth every penny, especially because they didn’t cause problems like this in my car.
Great video Ray.
I would have liked a good sturdy connector in that power line to the battery, maybe an OEM molex type, so the headlight assy isn't hard-wirered to the car/battery. Something that can be pulled back in through the cover. If you want to take the headlight assy over to the bench you are now tethered to the battery
I'd be nervous the relay coils would feed back a high emf spike to the driver module which is looking for a resistive (incandescent) load, not an inductive load, MOSFETS can fail from this if not protected… a diode across the coil might help… or not… fingers crossed there are no problems further down the road…🙄🤞
You may have addressed this in the vid but I can't hear you speaking with the loud music.. 🤔
😎👍☘🍺
Good day to you sir Ray, the introduction to this video is bloody brilliant! Love the videos, keep it up man
Why did you not add a fuse at the battery?
1. Regardless what you think, RED wire should be secured by the fuse. NOT 120A !!! This is best way to burn the truck.
You have multimeter there. Check how much current takes both diodes, fix fuse that is slightly above readings on each cable separately.(for example – reading 5A so you use 7A fuse)
2. Did you know that all cables in cars have doble isolation, no without reason.
3. Personally I would mount this drivers outside of lamp housing to avoid overheating.
Temperature test inside lamps recommended. Maybe temperature is less than on regular bulbs, but only maybe. Often multimeters coming with temp probe.
One question. When you first introduced your solution I think you said the ECM would power the relays instead of the bulbs, which would remove the overheated signal. What I don’t understand is why you had to run power directly from the battery if the ECM was connected?
This is the first video of yours I ever watched. I was so impressed with the commentary, problem solving and the repair. This is one of my favorite YouTube channels.
What a dumb design for the headlights giant truck but you have to remember the whole thing
I’m kinda suprises you gave each bulb a relay. One should have been enough I’d think. Or what kinda crazy led high power did they have.
The only thing I've seen with better credits is Bambi Meets Godzilla, by Marv Newland.
Dodge's no likey the LEDs
hmmm, I think I would have moved those new power wires to the fuse box (most vehicles have extra fuse slots for add on extras). That way they are fused and don't have a potential of burning up or causing a fire if they get grounded from the lack of rubber gromets/zip loom. Of course, I have no idea what the customer/cost/time and the shop lets you do. I understand about your concerns of adding a bladed fuse holder at the battery (or using the fuse panel), that's still an open circuit from the battery itself . Correct me if I am wrong
I’ve watched about 20 of your videos now. Bottom line, you’re a class act. I wish you worked where I live. Well done Sir.
You did a great job with that but can you please wait for the back ground music not to play when you are talking make’s it had to hear what you are saying thank you for all your videos
Thats the level of support I would want to have everywhere, ngl. Awesome
Ray, you forgot to protect the headlights with a fuse.
LED lights nice but the lenses is not designed for LED'S.
Nice diagnosis and repair idea. I do however question the install of any new circuit be it control or load needs to be fused.
My Diode Dynamics led bulbs never get warm..nor do my Auxito led bulbs
I guess I'm just confused . . . were the FOG LIGHTS LED's as well? Didn't see them getting wired . . . but it doesn't really make any difference. Don't let this go to your head, but I consider your repair work (especially on THIS video) to be approaching God-like proportions ( in the conventional usage of the term ). Just when I think I've seen it all, you pull out another epic.
Loved the Intro!
One of the many reasons why I hate modern cars. Why on earth do any of the lights need to be tied into the ECU, just keep it a simple circuit.
I hope all of the relays and wires used can handle the current. Real heat shrinkable tubing at the relays and a grommet/seal where the power wire went through the new hole would be nice. The fuse at the battery is great! Were the floods on their own circuit?
I've never heard of this, is it just dodge or are others doing this now, too? One body control module that directly drives many heavy electrical loads like headlights without a relay. What a wonderful idea! Does it directly drive the fan and window motors, horn and stereo, too? What's next, the starter? Who needs a starter relay? Let's save money on all of those costly relays and put everything into one unrepairable and proprietary module! 💲🤣
Although this is another example of why the heck do we have to put a computer to controll everything?? Its HEADLIGHTS. simple 12v system, a switch, a dimmer, and a circuit breaker is all thats needed. Another example of automakers making things overly complicated in the name of being advanced.
You reall y like your universal sockets (wobbly bits)😁
Um……You forgot circuit protection. Perhaps an inline fuse?
As the great Ray once said, "no fingie prints"
Well done
The song playing in the background with the same 7 chords was killing me. Damn shame when one of those HID's go out and you have to spend an arm or a leg to get another one that works on the same system.
i have a 2019 300s i find the head lamps dim. Should i be worried about running one of these kits. Also looking at the cover plate with respect to the led fan there doesnt seem to be much room to permit air flow. Might that contribute to the over heating/drawing to much current?
Nice Job done ,good you used this inline fuse for each light power supply.
I hate background music. Not yours in particular, just all background music.
I like your blog but hate this noise/music.I like to listen to the workshop!.If I wanted music I'd put disco on.Not ree just feedback!
Did you fuse the wires that you connected directly to the battery? Connecting #12 or 14 wire to 125A fuse in a short will cause that wire to light up like the head lights, because that wire can not carry 125A.
The LEDs Should draw far less current than the 3A or 5A OEM Haligen bulbs. But i would check the current on each one. The "drivers" should limit the maximum current that the LEDs can draw but I would have measured the current being drawn before I started. I admire the fact that you go out of your way to make your customer happy.
De-pin the center wire in the pigtail, don’t just cut it off.