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Use metric settings on your dial calipers. Metric is much better. The decimal system is better than the fractional system
I've also seen bad inner and outer tie rod ends cause steering wheel shake while braking.
Not criticizing, but as a mechanic, I most always service and evaluate the rear brakes to ensure they are working properly. If they are not working properly, the front brakes are overworked, causing them to sometimes overheat thus causing rotor warping in the front.
The light wins…
I use magnetic one with a plastic hook for plastic cars
Thank you very much for the knowledge of the Phillip's screw tools , I am buying one as our shop does brakes
Y YOU USE BRAKE CLEANER ON BRAKES
Get a head torch
FIX THAT F—-G LIGHT ITS PI–ING ME OFF THANK YOU PLEASE AND PLEASE LOVE YOU RAYXXXXX
Hello Ray!
What brand slide pin grease do you use? Also you are correct on the do not lube pad shims. I have experimented over the years with organic and ceramic pads and the dust and road debris gums up the pads ability to slide here in Northern Wisconsin anyways. Have a great day!
Love peace and chicken grease
Where can I buy a flashlight like yours Ray,that takes a beating and keeps on shining.your a hoot to watch and learn from.
New rotors,,absolutely if them pads are more than 30 days old,,,,,,replace not brain salad surgery here.
Gravity… 🤣
I see a new product opportunity. Lights with super magnets
Has anyone ever commented that Ray's "doodly-doodly-doo" when the phone rings sounds just like the Swedish Chef in The Muppets? It cracks me up.
It wouldn't be a Rainman Ray video without flashlight gravity.
It could be the start of a new drinking game. Every time flashlight gravity happens you take a drink.
Do you need to open the brake fluid reservoir when you compress the pistons back in ?
That phillips isn’t a phillips. It’s JIC, which looks just like a phillips but isn’t.
Which I only recently learned! Apparently if you get a JIC driver you don’t destroy the screws anymore and don’t destroy the tips either.
I just want to say haters will be haters and your a very good mechanic and don't rip off people and I watch your channel all the time and I'm from Canada sask to be exact
-The root cause of Rainman's frustration is he neglected to reveal the auto millage to us internet viewers when he started this video, not to say he is off a tick or two answering the shop phone.
-Grease no grease each to his own.
-Note to users, that bolt that holds the rotors on to the hub don't make the mistake I did by hammering on it with a chisel trying to get it out after I broke my last good torque bit. The hammering took out the spindle bearings.
-Great explanation of the root cause for the wheels tracking wrong.
OK, after watching a few of your videos, I have Subscribed, mostly for the entertainment of watching you battle the force of gravity and trying to keep your light on the spring. Also gave a thumbs up.
Kidding! I enjoy watching your work, with the running commentary. Good work, keep it up!
I clean up the rust between the stainless and bracket, then grease only between the 2. I agree that grease picks up brake dust and you're gonna have a bad time.
If I know I'm replacing pads and rotors, I'll just jam a screwdriver in the inspection hole between the rotor and pad and lever the caliper open.
Flashlight drop shots!
Do you allow a customer to ride along with you when you first test drive?
Retired tech cringing a bit here at some of your brake install practices…
1) Didn't clean and strip the hub of rust and debris and put on a layer of anti-seize before installing new rotor.
2) Didn't prep the caliper bracket pad channel and hit it with a wire brush and file before installing new clips which can lead to minor pad binding.
3) Didn't properly clean and polish guide pins. Questionable grease. Honda calls for high temp silicone based. Permatex Ceramic Extreme you're using is intended for metal to metal contact. It will work but there are better options for pins in rubber (I personally swear by Toyota red caliper grease).
4) Didn't use a torque wrench on caliper bracket bolts. Please use one. Caliper pin bolts can be done by feel but techs almost always over torque them. Just use a torque wrench.
5) I'd have suggested a brake fluid moisture test or simply flushing the system if it's been more than four years.
On the plus side you correctly suggested NOT using grease on the pad clips. This is important folks. Don't grease these unless you want to create problems.
Ray you're entertaining, well-intentioned and I'm a fan but don't get sloppy on best practices. Set a good example and a high bar for those viewers who are learning. Have a great weekend.
should have zip tied it to the one above also. not both on the same one
Parallel video cool edits nice work
I put grease between the shim and the caliper.
Hey Ray, if you ever need to strap a flashlight to a coil spring again, try letting it hang BELOW a coil instead of zipping it on the top.
Gravity will fight you and make the weight slide off, whereas letting the light hang under makes gravity your friend.
You reminded me of a problem I had years ago. I rebuilt the front end, ball joints control arms tie rod ends etc. Drove to closest town and purchased four expensive tyres with a wheel alignment as part of the deal. Picked the car up and drove 600km to my parents' home. Both fronts were worn down almost to steel! Took it to my dad's tyre guy and bought two more tyres and another wheel alignment. The guy said nothing had been aligned. He gave me a print out. I fronted the 1st shop when I returned and their comment was ":You hit a gutter" I was pissed off to say the least, told everyone I knew not to go there and they went out of business within 12 months!
what , no anti seaze on the caliper , bracket bolts ? Reeeeeeee … lol
Sorry your wrong about lube
Your lights need GoPro Jaws
Good work equals Good Results.
as a mechanek , that tool looks like it would save lots of time , but as a home owner who may chang pads an roters maybe once ever 2 years if even that , a large c clamp would do the same … good vid
That air hammer tool is a screw extractor. I have one made by Capital. Got it from Northern tools
I bought that screw driver attachment (for your impact) at Eastwood. The bits are 5\16 hex drive so I also got extra bits at the time. And it was not that expensive at all for what help it is.
I’m from Pa and I never use grease on the shims for the exact reason you don’t I’ve had way to many cars come in with uneven wear due to brake dust stuck to the grease. I try to preach this to the guys I work with plus our part time kid who’s still in school. But they don’t see the logic in it. Either way the pads will get stuck in the saddle over time weather its the grease or just rust.
Hi Ray, as an old gearhead, I really like watching your stuff. I'm too busted up to work on cars anymore so, I'm living by proxy through you. 😁 Anyways, I have something that's pretty strange with the brakes on my car and just thought I'd throw it your way and see if you heard or seen this before. 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited. This started about 2 years ago. My right front caliper seized. No problem. Swapped it out and I was good to go. Of course I replaced rotors and pads both sides. (I always do brakes on a "Per Axle". Never just one). About 6 months later. the left front caliper seized. Repeated the same repair again with rotor and pad replacement L & R. Then 8 months later, Right side rear caliper seized. I'm sure you know what I did. Now, 5 months later, Left Side Rear, you guessed it, seized. So, rinse and repeat. My question is, have you ever run into this on Hyundai's before or, any vehicle for that matter? in 45 years of driving and fixing my own cars, I have never once seen a vehicle do that. Mine or anyone else's. I'm pretty much a Hyundai "Brake Ninja" now.🥷🥷🥷 Thanks in advance and keep on making vids!
I hear Red Green saying, "duck tape!"
I live up in the north rust belt ( for all but 3 years in CA), and I never put lube on the pad shims.
For kicks and giggles the last time I did the brakes on the miss's explorer, I did try it out. You know what? You were spot on, the lube just absorbed and held all the brake dust and various dust debris from the road and dirt.
In a odd way, it formed on the outside of the pad ear, thus not allowing the pad to back off the rotor ( that is how I heard something was wrong).
One quick lite wire brushing, and all that crap is gone, no more issues ( tho one pad is now 2-3mm thinner than its twin).
I'm now going back to my old ways, of no lube insertion. Those shims come with every pad set for a reason.
.. three years into the future : … why is there a tracking device under my car
Funny you should mention that air impact, screwdriver with the handle, I used to use one myself, and just yesterday I saw it used on another channel by Mustie1 on a VW engine.