Hello everybody, Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! We've got a 2010 Honda Civic 1.3 liter, Hybrid engine, the CVT transmission, and 183 452 miles on the odometer. We're going through a long list of previous recommendations on this particular car. Uh, it came in with a suspected transmission issue, found out it had a simple engine misfire that has since been resolved. I Had some worn out breaks up on the front and while we were doing the brake job I Found that there was some slight bit of tearing in the control arm bushings on this car and a slight bit more play in the lower ball joints.

Now, the issue with the control arms actually weren't that bad. The tearing wasn't horrible and the bushings hadn't separated, but the ball joints were due for a replacement. Now the issue was here is the ball joints uh, are available with replacement control arms for like five dollars more. So we ended up just buying a pair of control arms for both sides, both the lowers and that is the project of the day on this 2010.

Honda Civic So let's get the rack set on this thing thing. We'll get her back up in the air, pop front wheels back off, and we'll get to work on disassembling that front end. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video powering down happening. Z Hood Gravity Dude, let's grab that wheel lock and get out of here.

It's a little hot in this thing climbing out. Alrighty I've got the rack set up, let's move around to the passenger side here. Tap that back subscribe button. Moving on up, we're gonna go up to around shoulder height.

That way we can get at the wheel wells and we'll pull this thing apart. Okay, it looks like we're starting with the right front on this one. We'll get both the wheels popped off and we'll uh, do one more inspection on those ball joints. See what kind of condition they're in.

This guy, there we go. Come here wheel. There's our shiny new brakes we just put on. Look at those.

All right? Let's circumnavigate the. Honda Go around to the driver's side front here. we'll pull this one apart and we'll take a look at those ball joints. actually.

You know what? I Have another idea. Let me lift this thing up and we're gonna give this a shake down higher up in the air and then we can see it. with uh with the wheel on. that'll be easier to actually shake the suspension so we can see the necessary motion and play.

Changing my mind? All right, let's move in here to the inside of the wheel. well take a look at these ball joints. Caster Truck Hey come over here man. help me out.

Can you grab this wheel for me and give it a shake left and right? I Believe there's some play in these ball joints down here. Oh yeah, keep doing that. Let's get some light in there. keep doing that.

sir. Keep going. Look at all that. Yeah, well, you're good.

You're good. Okay, now, like I said, we could replace just this ball joint. You can see it's bolt on. It's fairly simple.

uh. However, the uh. for like five, six dollars more, we got an entire control arm which came with new control arm bushings. See the very small amount of tearing in that? That's That's fairly inconsequential and kind of normal.

But for five bucks and 180 000 miles, we might as well just refresh these guys. and let that be that that one's a little more torn than the others. Either way, they're all getting replaced. So let's go ahead and get started.

I'll get this wheel pulled off and uh, we'll go from there Wheelock All right down below. The first thing we need to do is get the uh the PIN out of the nut on the lower ball joint. We'll pull this guy out. save that for later.

We need a 19 mil and we'll take this loose, pop it Loose from the knuckle and then we can get the rest of the hardware disconnected. now. I'm going to attempt this without pulling this axle out so I need to. Oh, it fits.

Look at that now. I Need to be cautious here because you know I hit you in the face. never mind I Don't need to be cautious, it's going to come right out What? I was going to say is I'll have to switch to the open end on this because as I unthread this, it's going to get closer to the axle and it's close I can't even unthread it. Look at that.

Let's try this. Watch this. We'll see if the threads will push the ball joint out from the steering knuckle. if I just continue to unscrew it, that's not going to work.

Pry bar: going in with a pry bar need to break this loose. So far, I've had two plans to get that out and both of them did not work. Okay, so here let's try something different. Let's get a pry bar in there to take up some space.

We'll unscrew it, some hit you guys again, frying down, some. not anything crazy I Don't want to break the axle or anything like that. just a little bit of down action and a couple impacts right here on the knuckle. Good.

it's got a puppy. Negative: Perhaps my order of operations is inaccurate? Let me let me try some better impacts. first. Did it pop loose? Yeah, No, No, no, not yet.

Well, this was easy. Now it is not okay. Back to the original iteration of the plan. I'll stick this pry bar in here see if I can't unthread this some to create some downward pressure on the stud.

Perhaps that'll do it. This thing's gonna make me take the axle out and use the use a puller. See it now. Shouldn't have said anything bad.

Ray No talking. Yeah, it's getting tight. You come out. Nope.

There we go. See that the appropriate amount of force in the appropriate area accomplished everything we needed. Tactics: Battlefield Tactics Okey-doke So looking left ever so slightly, you can see right here. the sway bar is attached to these lower control arms with the links.

There's one of the nuts. Let's get some lube on our nut and we'll see if we can't spin this off and just leave that sway bar right where it is. See what it does? Loud noises, Beautiful. Comes right apart.

That's what. I Like This is good. I'll put the nut back on the bar so it doesn't get lost. We'll back up yet again because there's a 19 mil Bolt running through the control arm into the subframe.

That's our front bolt and then there's one more in the back over there. All right. Big Bolt Big gun coming in wrong size socket. Again, Yes, that's a 17 out of 19.

my micrometer must be out of calibration this morning. Got it all right. Let's get out of here and back into the wheel well and we can go ahead and reach in through that hole right there and get that last Bolt from the back side of that control arm, that one is next. So I think I can get in there with my 90.

let me see if I can get on that Fastener Which negative that's not going to fit. the head's too big. Let's try again with a swivel socket and uh and the 90. see if we can't Uh, get that guy on.

and uh, that's also a negative now. I have to do this by hand. What is this fine? I capitulate I'll use a ratchet. get this guy loose on clickage.

The ratchet's falling out too. It's actually harder to reach than kind of what it looks like I think not the easiest Fasteners to get a hold of you. Didn't really think I was going to do all that by hand, did you? yeah? I don't think so. Come out.

Got it good now. Oh I cannot reach there. It is Okay, there's our bolt. so the control arm is now completely disconnected from the subframe.

So what I need to do here is pull this out from the bolt or pull the ball joint out. Now the strut is free and I should just be able to wiggle this control arm out. Come here. Control Arm Pry Bar always more pry bar.

Let's pop this guy out. This was easy I thought it was easy Once am I just not good at working on Hondas Get out of there More Fry Bar come out. it's getting hung up in the back. No worries, let's keep working it.

It'll come out. Hit it with a hammer. Seriously I Hope the install does not go as here we go. I Got it now.

A little bit of the proper Leverage comes right out of there. sort of kind of. It's now captured by the sway bar. What have I done? Okay, change of plans I need to rethink my life and take the sway bar Loose as well see I thought I was going to be able to just kind of maneuver this up and over that and leave the sway bar in position.

Uh, that's not the case. So we're gonna go over here to the other side. Buzz The sway bar off right here and then we'll pull the two bushings off and the straps get that guy removed just like the other side that came out. no problem.

Uh, drop my nut. come here. we'll put that right back there where we found it. Screw that on, get on there, that'll protect the threads and then I know where it is.

Now let's pop these straps off. Let me fix there we go two another now it's moving I'll grab it over here so it can't fall on me. last bolt coming out control arm almost falling down. there it is I did that completely bass backwards.

It was not very well thought out I could have done better that was. that was an error in judgment. Oops. Started off on the other side so let's move on over and get this one disconnected and removed.

All right going in with the needally noses. Let's pull this uh little pin out. Come here, you got it and we'll go back in with the 19. Get that loose.

Ah, and then get it pry barred. Turn that some. Now that I got the system. I think I'll just repeat what we did on the other side.

getting here with the angle pry bar. get it tight, hammer it in and it'll pop that uh ball joint out. That's the idea. Anyway, right about there now.

I'm not prying against the axle. It's actually catching the lip right here around that bearing housing and it's pushing pressure off of that, not off of the CV axle itself. I Know it's close quarters combat, but I'm not frying on this axle. That would not be okay.

I didn't do it. Try this one here. a little farther down on that nut. Okay, get some impacts.

a couple hits on that to shock it loose. kind of tight getting in there. The hammer swing has got to be perfect I don't know. Yeah, those were good hits.

Tell me now did you come loose? Nope. Oh I thought I had it thought I had the system down but I guess I don't got it. Pull that out later. Okay, looking left, we've got our 17 on that front bushing and then the 14 on the rear bushing.

Okay, we've come out from the bottom, we're up in the passenger side at wheel. Well again, let me. uh, let me crack this guy loose. That's the last bolts in this control arm switching out for the electron ratchet and we're good here.

Get that guy out of there. Come here. Come here. Bolt.

Got it all right. Going back in Return of the pry bar see if I can't get behind this thing and get it popped out of the subframe. Maybe it'll come out easier than the other side did since I seem to think I almost know what I'm doing here and that back joint is kind of hung up just like the other side was. How do I get in there? Let's uh, maybe pry bar from the top? Try that and that works.

It moved good more. There we go. Got her two control arms removed. Okay, let's take a little field trip.

Outside The Replacements Were just delivered not long ago. They're out here on the box see what we've got. OE grade says around the Box look at these mivo text or something. I think that's what they were.

Yep, one control arm assembly complete with ball joint. Oh yeah, yeah, these are looking good. Ball joints are nice, they're bolted in. The design emulates Factory design and we can see that the bushings do not have any tears in them.

This is good. Let's bring these over to the car and uh, start getting them installed. Moving on. Okay, let's get this compared with the one we just removed to make sure it's uh, dimensionally accurate and whatnot as it appears to be.

That's correct. That's correct. Ball joints are correct I think we're good to go here this out of here. I don't need you Bye bolted in ball joint style.

Very good. Okay, let's get this thing uh, up in position here and bolt it back in. The installation is going to go a lot easier than the removal was. That's that's what the goal is here.

so let's see if we can't uh, figure this out. Oh, I know I know what I'll do I've done this before I Remember these: I'll put the ball joint in first and then use the mass of the rest of the assembly to help position everything. That's what we're gonna do. Let's pull that steering out some air ball joint.

You guys see what I'm up to? No, you cannot. A little movie over here slightly. that was too much slightness. What I need to do is get that guy in the hole all the way in.

see as I'm doing that, it's pushing in the bushing over there the rear one and I just need to get it lined up and then get the uh, the front bushing bolted in. Come on, get in there. Oh it moved. I got it.

That's enough to get the nut on. beautimous. And during that struggle, I managed to get the rear bushing in almost in position. Which means we just need to focus on the front one after.

I get the uh, the bolt lined up on that rear. So really all I need to do is just kind of maneuver this thing rearward just slightly. so I was just looking almost. it's close.

Nope, not quite more backwards. Earth there and then down some and then out just a little bit. Everything's a hammer, including the Hammers There we go. Bolt going in.

good, good, good, good. and you know what since that sway bar is gone I think I can reach this from the inside? Sure can. Yeah, uh-oh not lined up. on the other side, there's a Twist in it.

Okay, well see if there's a Twist in it. we need to untwist it. And since I need to untwist it, that means putting this control arm all the way in position. That's the uh, the harder part here because you see the angle of this bushing is pointed out towards us.

the bottom is farther in. This is pointed out and that's because the suspension has sagged down. If the SP if the suspension was in its neutral position, this thing would be tilted straight and it would slide into that Groove a little bit better. So what we need to do is flex this bushing Maybe that works prying down on it.

Look at that, put it right in and then we'll give it. a push. right here. she's in nice.

Let me get that bottom bolt in position. then we can go back to that rear bolt and kind of pry this out some. I went a little too far. a little bit more.

All right. come on you. Oh I know I'll get a punch and I'll run a punch through the hole to help line that up. Okay, yeah, look it up.

you see how we're a little off center. I'm gonna go in there with this punch and just kind of pry this, uh, back a little bit. I Almost fell out of my chair I got it though. it moved.

it's a little bound up in there. Okay now I can get that bolt in up. We go. let's get it started.

Almost there we go. Keep those threads lined up. clicks Okay, let's move on. back up some and we're gonna see about getting that rear bolt lined up in the position back there.

That one's next. I'm thinking it moved red. Nope, not yet. We need to wiggle that uh, that bushing some going in with the pry bar.

I think pressing up is the appropriate Direction Here there we go. there it goes. It's Hot we're good. Click it all right.

Got it? Okay, backing up some. Let's just get this ball joint tight. we'll get the uh, the powder key installed and then we are good to go on this side here. Let's push.

Uh, push, our ball joint up, spin that on and we need a I think that's a 21. No longer a 19. All right, 21. Is that the correct? Yes, it is.

Got it good. My micrometer calibration is coming back into spec. I Like this except oh no, it's not. It's a 22.

it's not going on. I'm dumb trying again with the 22. it's amazing how well this stuff fits with the right size tools. How about that? hitting you guys with wrenches? again terrible.

Try it. From this side, more space. There we go. Got The Locomotion Going now.

All right. Endless threadeds on the ball joint. It's almost there. Hmm.

can't get the box end on. one more pull and one more pull after that? there we go. Here's the fun part. look at this: Cotter key goes in.

However, it doesn't go through the uh, the little notches in the castle nut and that's okay. but it is a design oversight. Pull this guy through a deal for that to the 31st man I Got I got two pounds I bought two of them like a few weeks ago like I don't need any more. We just found out refrigerant became much more expensive than uh, it used to be.

It's very unfortunate because I just bought a bunch. Anyway, that guy's in. It's not going to flip up and hit the CV axle so this is good to go. All the bolts on this side are tight.

Let's get out of here. move over back to the driver's side Again, we will circumnavigate our Honda moving around. Let's see, we'll work out here. from about the front side.

that's going to work out best. let's get our wheel turned. I've got a push and not pull because if I pull I will pull the axle joints apart and that would not be okay. We don't want to do that.

Okay Control arm coming in. We're gonna repeat this procedure and it's similar fashion to how we did the other side. try to get the ball joint and uh, all these bushings lined up here I actually need to pull this out some. It's a I rotated the wheel too far I don't have enough space to get that ball joint to line up.

Let's try this. Almost there it goes. that's in. Let's get the nut on that way it can't fall out here we go.

We are nutted. Now if we look back we can see that that rear bushing is all those right where it should be. Needs to go in a little farther and we need to get this. uh this front bushing straightened back out and then pressed in.

Let's do the front one first. let's try that. Let's try to push that guy in from the top help kind of bend it some and take away some of that twist. just kind of tap it on in there.

that will go back down. Grab the bolt and we will grab that punch and wiggle that around until it's straight. Okay let's see how how well or how close we got this. Oh that's like right on the money.

Look at that, it's beautiful and that's the wrong bolt and that's because I was sitting on the appropriate bolt. It was on the little shelf under my stool. you in felt like 10. find out.

Got it all right. So far so good. Let's get some pry bar under this back pushing. we've got a pry it kind of up and a little bit out.

You see the uh, the bolt hole in there so we need to go outwards ever so slightly-ish Come on. Now there it goes. Let's try it. from the this side over here.

see oh look at that perfect alignment. Stay right there, stay there. don't move. Almost perfect And it moved.

No I lost it. Where is it that was so perfect? I Probably can't do it again like that. Maybe get in your home fees. There we go and the threads are lining up.

Perfect Good Good. Okay, we're picking up speed now, getting a little bit of momentum. This is good guy. tight, not from down there.

I Have to get this one from the top pickages. There we go. Okie Dokes Let's get the uh, the ball joint bolts on and we're all set here. We can rock and roll.

This one has the same size castle nut as a as the right side did. so we're gonna need that 22. open end, not boxed end. A little bit of a little bit of rhythmic clackety clack and we'll draw that in Cotter Pin it and throw the wheels back on after the sway bar goes in.

Can't forget the clay bar. I See the hole for the Cotter key. it's emerging Cotter pea cotton Cotter pee Cotter Key Cotter pin I Tried to say pin and key at the same time. Anyway, of the two, what do you guys call those? You call them cotter pins or Cotter keys because I understand from past comments that uh, there are many names in which to refer to those as I call them cotter pins but I've been calling them Cotter keys this whole time.

So which one is it? The world may never know. There we go, that one's tight. dope's pin coming in on the back side. Push that guy through, not without the pliers I Want All right, let's try again.

Pin going in from the front side. Push that guy through. it's been that one around. Do the same with that one because I can't really hold them.

Super nice. The space does not allow such things and that's secure. We're good to go. Let's get out of here.

Back it up. Get the Uh sway bar in position. Okay, one stabilizer bar being maneuvered Back into the comb. I think we sit right about here.

Yep, the links point down and they bolt in like so. Yep, that's where it's gonna go. Okay and I did not mean to make that rhyme but it did. it did.

Let's get these just backwards. There we go. I'll get a couple of the bolts started. No I won't this thing fell out which hit the bolt started and then I'll get the other side started that way this uh I can let the weight off of this because I'm gonna get noodle arm real fast.

Shakes stay there. stay there. passenger side coming together. Yay! Very good side bolts.

There we go. Okay let's get these uh end links on and bolted in pounds in position. good and same thing over here on the passenger side right behind me. Let's get our nut tight real quick.

like Okay, let's go ahead and spin it around and we'll get this last one in. right through the hole. There's our nut that I just dropped Got it caught? It never hit the ground? Oh yeah, get on there please. Clicks Okay, a little bit more torque on the bushing bolts clicks and four times clickages.

Very good. Okay, so we have new control arms, new ball joints, new bushings, sway bars in looking good. Everybody's nice and tight. Let's tossed the wheels on.

get this thing rolled back out. This vehicle is complete. So that being said, I'm gonna go ahead close this video out right about now. there's nothing more to see I Don't need to do a test drive on it because the only time this thing needs to go anywhere is when it goes back home.

but before that, it has to go to the alignment shop. Other than that, we are good to go. We've done a successful tune-up fix the suspected transmission problem, did some front and rear brake work, and made the front suspension safe and stable yet again. So overall, this is a highly successful repair operation in this car.

I'm glad I had the opportunity to work on this car and I'm glad I got the opportunity to share that experience with you guys. So that being said, as always and again, thank you guys for watching! Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that by tapping that like button down below. Drop me a comment or two while you're down there.

And most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later! Hey, it's the after party backing out the auto. Let us not forget wheel lock keys. go back in the center console restartings the engine quiet. Honda Reverse Punks for safety.

Wreck has cleared both sides. steering wheels still straightish. It's not like that or anything, so we're good here. Bolts, bolts, ball joints, sway bar.

Going through all of it in my head. we're all good to go. Park In the car backing it out, calling my guy, Come pick it up, you can have your car back. We're ready to roll.

Finalize Parking Z Auto And last power down? hey goodbye Honda.