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don't assume FLUKE multimeters are the best of the best they are up in the top range BUT they are designed for the military specifications hence the price is pumped up BUT there are cheaper multimeters on the market that are just as good if not better in the way of range, accuracy and build quality like for example BRYMER ( GERMAN ) I speak from having many years of actual experience in electronic engineering maintenance/repair both in the field and lab and I'm no cheap arse just thought I'd mention it, elevated price does not mean higher quality
I like your hypothesizeing!
So maybe I missed something but I didn't see anything wrong with your meter. Your first measurements were done with it in auto range mode which for what you do is how it should always be set. You got a reading for 18.8 M Ohms or mega ohms or million ohms and 4.5 M Ohms (Mega Ohms) on the other one which is a significant difference. You then changed to manual range and set the meter to Ohms. This means it could never measure the resistance of the sensors anymore because they were out of range or OL. It worked great for your leads since they should be almost 0.
I think its good to have an analog…old school meter also…
Change the battery. Most important thing you can do for your meter besides good leads and assuring you don’t touch any of the metal on leads or whatever you’re testing
i have had multi-meters die a slow death. Good battery, but acts erratic.
Ok, how many new meters were sent to you?
I love it..
.. you were getting paid to drive down the road in someone else’s car…👍
I agree with others, the battery being weak can affect readings.
Jeep Liberty… not an actual "Jeep."
Thanks for sharing Ray- love our videos. My background is in electronics repair, and I like the way you approach issues. The wheel sensors are Hall Effect devices. When you place them on a ferro-magnetic surface (such as the top of the tool box) and move it away, you will trigger the device- which changes the resistance reading on the meter. You cannot expect the two devices to read similar under different physical conditions. Also, the resistance reading will be a function of the current output of the DVM when on different Ohms ranges. You need to turn off auto-range when trying to do a resistance comparison because on higher Ohms ranges the current will be too low to operate/trigger the sensor at all.
Good video, and some valuable advices! Greets from Helsinki
man this guy sounds like my internal monologue. and if I could find a mechanic as honest as him I would never go anywhere else.
Part swapping should only be done IMHO after checking powers/grounds and wire integrity as you could damage another sensor/component and have 2 costs instead of a great T/S-Diag outcome…just be wise and careful
"These sensors are held in by this single 10 mm bolt" and in the rust belt, 40 lbs of rust. Good luck getting it out!
Life and Liberty has been restored…:-)
One would say that driving whilst holding a video camera is driving unsafely. Like holding a mobile phone. Where I live in Australia, there are stiff penalties for doing so.
Moving a faulty component to another spot is a reasonable troubleshooting technique, but it can be risky. This story has nothing to do with cars. Several years ago, my office had a large computer system with a fault. The manufacturer's technician was called and he quickly identified what he believed to be a faulty PC board. To confirm it, he removed the faulty board and swapped it with what he believed to be a good board. By doing so, the once good board also became faulty, as did several other components in the computer. The technician ended up having to rebuild a major part of the computer with new backplane and PC boards, at a cost of over $50 thousand, which his company had to eat. Moral: be careful when swapping components around.
I always thought that the way to check an ABS sensor is with it installed on the car: rotate the hub and look for (low) AC voltage at the output. I'm not a mechanic by trade, so sorry if this is dumb.
0.2Ohm is common resistance of the wires. The reading of the bad sensor was not mili-Ohms, but mega-Ohms, so practically open circuit, maybe some leakage (dirt,…). These meters can not measure mili-Ohms, you would need 4 wires for that…
Those digital meters are ok…up to apoint, but you should try an old-fashioned analogue moving scale meter. I have an archaic AVO 8. It must be forty years old or more, but it has never let me down.
Do what I did wash the engine bay out, got rid of all the dust and got rid of ABS warning
I couldn't help but stare at the chip in that jeep's windshield the whole time hoping he gets that repaired before it becomes a large crack.
I believe in testing but this part causing limp mode, just replace it.
CHANGE THE BATTERIE.
Same color as my Liberty was. I miss it. Rolled it out doing rescues in a blizzard.
when the connectors are different it's probably because the manufacturer don't want people to switch components.
Fiat.😁👍
If you need to get a new one then get a fluke, it will be your last multimeter.
Buy a Fluke and have no more issues.
I have a friend that works in a huge factory and every time a Fluke comes for calibration, it never needs adjustment.
If your looking to replace your multimeter I highly suggest the Fluke 107, it will do what you need, great accuracy comes with a nice lanyard that is magnetic that will keep it from hitting the floor. Getting a nice accessory probe/clip set is great for grabbing small terminals, pins and plugs rather than trying to hold the stock probes on close connectors or one’s arms length apart
the sensors work on changes in magnetic fields. when you tested the first one it was resting on the bench. when you tested the second it was in the air. this also may have contributed to the "off" reading
I just had a multimeter do the dirty on me. Thought the alternator needed replacing due to the alternator not charging, lucky I double checked with a different multimeter or that would've been wasted money. First multimeter had a flat battery.
Since you have angry pliers, do you ever pull out the Tonya Harding?
Too many words
Replace the meter battery. having the meter in Auto ranging is why the meter did internal tests and the meter then switched to the Mohm (Millions of ohms range). The values suggest to me that there was a Hall device (electronic semiconductor inside). These are electronic semiconductor devices that respond to the passing of a magnet in front of them, it is not unusual for semiconductors to read very high resistance on an ohms test. The lower reading in auto was the faulty device. When you switched to the manual ohms range, it was on the low ohms range 0 to say 1000 ohms so the Millions of ohm reading was OL (out of range). If you had selected the higher manual ranges eventually you would have started reading the Millions of ohms again. It would be a good test next time you have a sensor out is to put the meter in continuity range and pass a magnet in front of the sensor head. You may see a pulse of reading on the meter. (Try the test with the meter probes both ways around, two tests) You may find this a rough way of getting a test on the sensor. Good luck.
DVOM's give erratic readings when the battery gets low.
Did you check the battery in your meter ?
Buy a Fluke
Seat belt! Your cars should have a Klaxon for seat belts! Whoop whoop!
Is this NOT a full blown FIAT? In what world would we expect a Fiat to last even 50,000mi, let alone 100,000mi? Delusional…
Already had an abs Sensor Build as a hall-Sensor with 2 Pins, if you Test hall-Sensors on it‘s resistance you will kill it. unlike the old inductive sensors where meassuring resistance is totally fine.
On the Megaohm scale you need to keep your fingies off the pins or those are what you're measuring the resistance of 😉
If you plan to get a new meter and you need to buy it yourself i can recommend the "KAIWEETS HT118A" it comes with a light up display and offers a led to light things up on the back. Furthermore it is nothing crazy expensive and does a good job imho.
Don't rule out the meter leads for problems, I've gone through quite a few sets.
Nice video but your title is bait.
It's time to luzz (throw) that meter across the shop. ,😠
It's a Jeep, if there is no check engine light then there is a problem
Switching the sensors seems like a waste of time and money. Two ABS sensors cost 10-20€. The time it takes to check again costs more than one sensor.