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Part 1! Hack Job! Mechanic Botches Engine Replacement! Ford F-150 5.4 3 Valve P0345 P0175 P0063 P2006 P2195
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Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! I know I'm super glad to be here. This video is the part two of this: I think it's an ' 05 Ford F150 with the 54 Triton three valve V8 uh, that's the one that I have the infamous timing chain rattles and oil pressure problems and a few other uh, few other issues anyway. Once Upon a Time In this truck, this engine blew up and somebody recently replaced it with a some type of remanufacture Ed unit. Um, there's some issues with the install in this reman.

uh, one of which actually many of which is. The install was horribly botched and they broke things like sensors. They broke the O2 sensor. they had the wires routed incorrectly and there was manifold linkage that could not.

uh, it couldn't adjust when it was commanded by the ECM There are a Litany of trouble codes in this thing. Uh, it took an entire video of diagnosing this and tearing it down yesterday to figure out what exactly the deal was. Um, we've got. uh, we have a good path to go on.

Uh, basically what I'm going to do here is fix all the broken stuff that was neglected or fraudulently repaired. For example, they uh the guy I I said fraudulently. that was probably not the wrong word or the right word. Um, the installers broke this O2 sensor off and rather than replacing it, they just stuck the piece back on and shipped it and let it go on about its business.

So what we're going to do the strategy is is to repair and replace all of the stuff that was deliberately or, uh, negligently. there's that word again to negligently, uh, broken and installed improperly. We're going to put the thing back together, we're going to restart the engine, and then we're going to go drive it, re-evaluate it, and see if there's any further and or additional repairs that are going to be required on this truck to get the thing, uh, back in a in a good operating condition. So like I said this, uh, this is the part two of this particular truck.

Uh, if you wish to go back in time to revisit part one, or if you missed part one, just check the link down in this video's description or you can go into the comment section in the pin. comment at the top will also take you to a link that will take you back in time to this video's part one. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video uping. Z Hood Look who that guy is.

All right. Now that all that's out of the way, let's go ahead and get started here. We have some parts that have showed up. Everything's been delivered I have a set of replacement intake manifold gaskets and I had to order a set to replace those with because some Super Genius out there decided that it was more beneficial to this engine to put Uh RTV silicone sealant on the gasket surface on the new gaskets when they installed the engine.

so those are junk. Unfortunately I had to get a new set so we have a new set of the gaskets. I have here a replacement cylinder head temperature sensor because we found this one bust clean off and we just ignored that cuz hey, it's under the intake manifold. Nobody's going to ever notice that somewhere around here.

I Also have a replacement uh O2 sensor for Bank One sensor one: Uh, that's on this side of the engine cylinder 1, 2, 3, 4 and it's the sensor in front of the catalytic converter. So we have an O2 hanging out for that thing. So uh, like I said a moment ago, the first thing we're going to do is get all the broken stuff reinstalled, repaired, put back together. We're going to reroute these wires uh, as best we can and try to get them in the factory locations.

That way there's no conflict of components when it comes to that uh manifold linkage back there on the intake. Uh, once all that stuff is put away to my satisfactory uh, we'll go ahead and get that intake manifold back into this Valley and in position. Uh, we'll get everything hooked back up and then we can restarting the engine to check and see uh, if this thing's going to have any future trouble. codes Now keep in mind from the first video Uh I had made mention of a rattle noise like a on Startup and I uh I believed it was an internal sounding type of noise.

There's a possibility that the fuel Trims on this thing and the cam position is so far out of whack or out of specifications rather, uh, that it was causing that, uh, that rattle on start up. It's also possible that that rattle is caused by a uh, a cheapo cam shaft phaser under the valve cover here. but we won't know about that until the engine is back to life and the ECM is happy with everything that's going on. So like I said, we're going to fix what's staring at us in the face and then if further repairs are going to be required, we can go and, uh, move into that direction at that time.

All right. Starting off, let's go ahead and get the broken half of this uh cylinder head temp sensor removed from the clip and I probably can't do that with just my hands I think I I need to pry that out somehow. Some way or not. Super flange strength All right.

So there's a there's the broken connector side. Now we need to fish out uh, that cylinder head temp sensor right here I had called it a coolant temp sensor the other day. It's I mean it could be the same thing, but this is the one that tells the ECM uh how hot the engine actually is. Sometimes you're going to find that there's a two coolant temp sensors is on an engine and one can just be for the gauge on your dash and then the other one uh sends a signal to the ECM so it knows how hot it is for its fuel mapping strategies.

I Do not know if there's coolant behind here. there might be I mean uh. Taking a look at the new sensor, it appears that there's some coolant in there. so let's just back this out a little bit.

If it starts to leak, then we'll know and if it doesn't leak then we'll know. Makes sense. it does to me and that's dry. So there is no coolant in that hole that's good or there's no cool in the engine.

but I don't think so. Okay I would like to try something that I saw on a video the other day. I Figure this is a good opportunity to try this out since we've just learned that there is no coolant down in that hole. so the seal on these threads is not remarkably critical.

However, I don't like to put threads in without something on it. So we I'm going to put a little bit of something something as a sealant on there. Uh, it appears that this is some kind of RTV silicone sealant. We're not going to do that.

There's really no need to. You can see it there. It's just. it's just there.

One could say all right, put some Teflon tape on it. Okay, well we could, but that's not okay either. Um, what I saw on the interwebs is someone took Teflon tape and rather than just wrapping it around, what they did is they made the they made like a string I don't know if this is valid or if this works or if this is a good idea or a bad idea. Uh, that's why I'm doing this right here on the camera cuz I want you guys to give me some feedback as to whether this is a viable method or not for for sealing threads.

But what you do is they say you take take a tape and wrap it up as a string and then use that little string business see if I can can't pull this off. It looked easier on the video that I saw I don't know if I can do it, but they ran the little string thing that they made all around the threads. that's not going to work. That's stupid.

Let's try again. Hang on. Maybe we'll try something else. Maybe I can cut it in half, get a smaller one, rip it in half.

Sure, let's try that. make a smaller string, twist it up. Like I said, this is just what I saw. so I don't know if it's this is a good idea or not.

It might be a horrible idea and it's going to leak everywhere I Think you guys see what I'm trying to accomplish here like. So is this okay to attempt a seal with the Teflon tape I wrapped it around, then we just kind of smooshed it and smoothed it out. Do you guys think that this is okay for a thread seal? uh, on a sensor or a Fastener or anything of that nature. Uh, again, let me know.

comment section down below I realized that's a experimental idea cuz I've never done such things but figure it couldn't hurt cuz it's going to thread in. those are very coarse threads and again there's no sealant there. coolant liquid so it in theory that should be acceptable. right? maybe right, Wrong and different.

Nobody knows, Well, someone out there knows your work. Ah, never heard that before. 20 minutes later all right where was I tool guy came by to chitchat and sell me some Milwaukee stuff I didn't need anything today. plus I'm busy so we were.

where were we I forgot where we talking about something about thread sealant? oh that's tight but I want to go a little bit more that way. it's it's like even right here cuz if it was not even it would moderately bother me. Anyways, let's fix this wire convolute business here. Protect these wires some I'll wrap some tape around it I suppose I don't think I have any more of this.

uh, small sized wire loom. So I need to acquire some. but I'll reuse this I'm going to tape it up up some so it stays good and we can plug this guy in it. Better Plug in.

Yeah, we'll plug that in and then uh, we'll move on to the next piece of uh, destroyed installation equipment. All right coming in with our tape. this is not that rubberized electrical tape stuff that gets all mushy and Squishy it's a cloth tape uh designed specifically for wiring harnesses. So all we're going to do here is just throw a little bit of this uh, this tape over this convolute, seal this uh bit of loom right back up and we should be good to go here.

That is one one piece of damage repaired and that should be pretty good right there. I don't want if I can tear this? Yep, sure I can. Okay, that one's fixed up. let's give it some squeezes, make our tape it here properly and get that unit clicked and plugged in.

So the next one on my list and what I think is the most critical in this particular situation is going to be the O2 sensor wire. if you recall from the end of the last video, I was trying to inspect this for like actual wire damage and I couldn't find anything I gave this thing a slight tug and it brought the entire O2 sensor or half of it Brought that up with uh the connector. So I ended up ordering another. O2 I have that in the Box behind us.

So what I want to do is we're going to raise this truck back back up and pop out that old O2 sensor that's broken off. We'll stick the new one in. Uh, it's not a Ford Motorcraft sensor I Had to get a denzo. it's as close as I could get.

Um, the motor crafts uh, were not available. They're all out of stock and I'm barely certain they're all out of stock cuz the guys that are building things are not. uh, they're not building them right now. they're all not.

uh, they're well, they're striking. That's what they're doing. So got our new sensor here. Connector looks like it is appropriate for that Ford style.

uh. female side of the connector. Let's run this truck in the air Swap this unit out and then we will. uh, we will continue moving on up.

Oh maximum altitude achieved right there looking good. Let's set her on our locks for some safety double lock action. Back down below. let's pop the sensor out.

Okay, we are at the passenger side. This is the exhaust. uh, coming down from the manifold. cataly converter is directly overhead.

Uh, downstream O2 sensor is in the converter and the Upstream O2 sensor. Is this broken off piece? Uh, right up there. So we're going to try to get that guy busted out of there and then we can thread in the uh, the replacement. Let us.

uh, try to unkick this I should have soaked this down last night with some oil, but I didn't There we go. She came loose. That's nice. Better than not coming loose.

That's good. I Can't reach up there. Give it the old spinner rooo and there's the other half of the broken off O2 sensor got it new. four wire heated oxygen sensor getting prepped I've got some uh, some never Seas here.

it's the copper flavor, that's what came with it. Give a little dab of that and then we'll just feed this guy right up into that hole. Come around the back side here sensor in the bung and we'll thread her in, tighten it down, stick the connector up high so I can reach it from the back of the engine and then we'll feed that connector in. uh, or we will connect.

There we go. words I Wasn't thinking I was looking at this. We'll get it connected and then, um, try to mount it as best as we can. I I Don't know where all the clips are, where these wires were supposed to mount up.

They just seem to be dangling in there all willy-nilly like. So we need to put that stuff away so it doesn't get caught up on the Imrc. and uh, try to undo what was already done. There we go.

Wrench coming in. give this some torque. no torque wrench required cuz you're not getting a torque wrench up there a little bit more and kick it All right. That guy's in that's tightish, tight enough.

excessively tight, whatever your opinion is, and we'll take. Can't even see it. Bear with me circumnavigating a Ford here. we'll just stick this this way up there.

As far as I can, it's probably going to fall back down, but I know it's near. Yeah, that's close enough. All right, let's get out from over here. we'll let the truck back down and then, uh, we can, uh, go back to plugging everything in and seeing, uh, see how the rest of this goes all right out from under the truck off the safety locks, locks, disengage down button achieved depressed on our way down.

All right, All right, she's down. we're good. Let's get back inside and get that O2 connected to its uh connector back under the hood. over there.

down in that hole somewhere, there is an 02 sensor wire we just put in, so let me reach in there and try to fish her out. I hope there's enough wire here where we can make a connection. Yeah, yeah, there's our connector. So I need to get this guy plugged in here.

See? this is what I was talking about. Look I don't have nor do I know where these are supposed to plug in? See that little uh uh little tab looking dealer right there? those are supposed to fit into some kind of a bracket and this one does not have a home. So I think what I'll have to do is just, uh, find a place later on where it fits nicely and just zip tight together. I I Don't know if I have any other choice or maybe I wonder if it goes.

Oh, you know what? I found it. Look, there's a bracket right here. Let's get a light on there. There's a bracket right right there.

There's a bracket. That's where it goes. So I have this connected improperly. it has to go under this harness here.

see these are the details that really really matter during a job. I Know it seems inconsequential, but skipping out certain details like what direction the wire goes is the kind of thing that'll really get you in trouble. Let's get in a little closer. I'll show you here.

Hope you guys can see what's going on. More light there. Now you can see on the back of this tube is this little bracket. It didn't work and on that bracket is where we press in the mount or that is the mount for that.

O2 sensor wire. See that that's where it goes and that's how you stick your wires in. Let's see if there's one on the other side for that other O2 sensor wire and I'm not I don't see it back there I don't think there's another one. Okay, it's not really looking like it so I have to figure out where the other side goes.

All right? Well, that's uh, that's good for now. We got that problem solved. Woo Here, let's try to organize some of this business back here as best as we can. Um, we can see we've got this little, uh, little clip thing here.

I'm assuming that's supposed to connect to either this steel line or perhaps, uh, this fuel line here. Either way, this harness has to go back and over. and I think this thing is going to clip to that hard line I think it goes there like that. That's that's what seems the best.

there's our fuel injector wire the one that was hanging out and it pulled super tight around the injector. but since that was pulling really tight, I got a feeling that I should be kind of trying to move this whole harness here over to the right ever so slightly, but it kind of runs into a snag over here on the left side. so I don't know if I can get it any farther unless it happens to be routed incorrectly around around this coolant line here, which would upset me I don't think it is. yeah I think that's okay.

I'm going to try to maybe pull it back and wrap it around a little bit farther. Couldn't hurt. Okay, yeah, look here there's another Mist up another misted wire Mount see that stud right back there? Well, that stud is supposed to house this little plastic clip which secures the harness so that goes in there. They had that wrong.

See, these are the details that matter. It's this little stuff. It really hems you up in the end. And it did.

and now we are at the end. So that's correct. This wire is good. Let's just tuck that back a little neater and out of the way more neatly.

Tug it back more neatly, more neatly, more neatest. whatever that is, that's the Imrc. That's where it goes. That's where it goes.

That's where it goes. This is where it goes. The only one really in question is the end of this. O2 sensor wire here.

but I'll try to button that up from the bottom side so we'll just stuff that down in the hole there. so this all appears to be where it needs to be. I Think this is good. We'll tuck that down.

We'll pull this up and stick that over there so we don't lose it. Everything looks good. Let's uh. let's go reg gasket the lower intake man or the intake manifold and then try to get this thing back in position here.

Let's see gasket set. I've already thrown the old gasket set or gotten rid of it. It's off the engine. I Think that's not okay.

There's some sealant on there. Let's rub that off. Get rid of you I Don't even think that's on a ceiling surface. No, it's not.

That's just a leftover spillage or whatever. Scrape all that business off, send some air through it there that's sufficient. There we go. All right.

Let's take our gaskets and set these units up on the ports here. They're going to clip in. see little Clips right there. They're going to feed into those holes and clip in.

They're going to stay connected. They should. They better. There's three right here on the back side.

Let's get those guys lined up and then couple more on the front side here. Snap it all into place. There's this one there. Get in there.

You all right? That one's a little reluctant to stay, but it's not going to. It's not going to fall off. That side's fine. Let's get this other one on the other side.

and then we'll drop this intake. uh, into its home. All right. We're coming in over here.

I'm going to climb up on the overhead creeper. We're going to drop that intake manifold down in there, wiggle it into position, and we'll get her bolted in. But first, I Wish to make certain that I have no debris in my intake Hol Blow them out real quick. Nothing.

please. check the other side. Nothing clean. All right intake coming in.

All right manifold. Let's get this unit down in position here. This is going to be a tight squeeze cuz this is a very large sized manifold. but we just kind of lower it right on down in there, guide it in pain in mind, not smash uh, sensors or wires or get things pinched.

You're not going to shove it so like, see how it stops, you don't just stand on it and shove it in there. Maneuver it, set it down in position, take our time, visually inspect everything to make sure the proper clearances have been achieved. and uh, in short, use due diligence. Okay, the intake has landed, it's in position.

Feeling good looking? good? Let's get the bolts set up in, uh, in place. Okay, so I'm taking who gravity. I'm taking a look at this harness back here and I think we're in good shape? What I want to do is pull this harness upwards because it has a tendency to fall down and then lay on that linkage. So I'm going to pull this up and we're probably going to zip tie it to the fuel rail right here.

I'll just I'll suspend it with some zip ties I Think there should be something that secures it, but whatever it's supposed to be secured to is not there. Maybe there's a bracket? Um, so I'll just I'll use some zip ties here to keep this uh harness off of those uh uh, those two linkage rods that are down there. Um, before we proceed to do anything further though, I need to make sure that the vacuum booster uh hose is connected and this guy connects onto this intake way back and down here and I hope you guys can see where my fingers are going. uh I can't even feel it anymore.

but right around here somewhere in the back of this manifold uh is the other end of this hose connection. You can't connect this hose to the manifold and sneak it in because these lines get in the way. But what I need to do is reach back in there and figure out how to get that guy hooked up. Uh, press the hose onto the fitting and then we'll put it back on its little bracket here and then we can plug it back in.

So if you guys can't see what I'm doing I I Do apologize. Gra Toss I Do apologize if I can't uh capture this moment. uh as I would like to. but uh, you know it is what it is.

There's stuff in the way so can't record everything. that's just uh, that's just how it goes. That is the way the cookie crumbles. okay I feel it.

My left middle finger is on the nipple and I can feel the hose and they're aligned I think I'm just kind of pushing it in I can feel the hose going over the fitting so the back of the vacuum line is on. All I need to do is push the bracket down over that stud which is easier said than done and stuff does not fit very well. it's all tight squeezes, brackets on. Let me go reach back and check the hose.

that feels good. Awesome! Now we can plug it in to our booster right here and that is our vacuum supply line for brake booster and it also has a little T off for the fuel pressure. uh sensor that goes on the rail right here. that's going to plug in right there but we'll do that later.

Okay, couple zip ties coming in real quick. Like let's secure this harness a little bit higher up. I'm going to use two of them here because two is one and one is none. so we want to make sure it doesn't break and fall off in the future.

and then, uh, we end up in the same situation so we're not going to make it super tight, we're just going to suspend it a little bit with these. Uh, with these zip ties? See how we're doing that? There just kind of zip tied the thing up and now that's uh, that's nice and secure. It won't fall down, won't be a problem. Uh.

One thing that would be a problem though is if we forget to plug in that Imrc motor if you recall. We tucked that connector in back in the corner over to our left. I'm fiddling with it but you guys can't see. It's really dark in here so there's our there's the connector I need to slip it down underneath that fuel rail cuz it was wrapping around Newens.

Oh this is a not fun okay that's in the right spot and the Imrc is down here in the middle of the manifold and I can touch the connector with my finger. So we're just going to slip this guy back down and try to snap the guy in and I know you all can't see back there. Please don't click away. Okay, got it, That's connected.

Good to go. Okay, this is the moment that matters. This was our super stretched out, uh, number four. Uh, no.

Number Eight fuel injector wire and this is the one that was wrapping down and around the linkage of that Imrc. You can see with this thing raised up and the harness pulled over, there is enough slack to plug this thing in without stretching it and running the thing super sideways. Good to go. Number Four injector's connected.

Let's get the rest of this business reconnected. Starting with this fuel line right in front of us. We don't need that thing dangling around anymore. Plug you in fuel line.

Snap that. That's good. So everything's looking good. All the wires and hoses are routed properly.

I Like this, this is a this is going to work out. Let's go ahead and start dropping our bolts in and we'll come through with the ratchet and the 10 mil and get this thing. uh, securely fastened down to the cylinder heads. so there's one of our bolts starting threads here.

I Found the hole. There we go. One bolt, second bolt dropping down underneath the fuel rail. This actually, uh, should have had me pull the fuel rail off to get this thing apart.

but you know I cheat. So I left it on. That's fine though. I Can maneuver these in where they're supposed to go next.

Bolt down in that hole right there. That's where she goes and we've got looks like there's two more on this side here. one up front, drop that one in and get her started and the last one on this side. We got to sneak this unit in.

Let's see if we can just drop it straight down. That'd be cool. just drop it right in. Watch this.

No, yeah, that didn't work. Epic failure. see I try to show off. didn't work out.

recover. slip it down right in there. see that that one's in rotate. Okay, those that five, the five on this side are in.

Let's scoot on over. get these other side uh, dropped into place. Then we'll tighten them up right side of the engine which is left side of the camera. Same situation dropping in the bolts.

Let's get them started. Still laying on this overhead creeper and it compresses the chest. It makes words hard to form. Drop that one in.

Tighten you all right? That's two. Uh, number three. See if I can't drop it straight down like the other side. Got that one.

That was fun. Got two more on this back side here there. The one in the back. we can reach that one.

that one's in the hole and that one right there down in that hole. That should be fun. Let's see. where's my uh, my Fastener that one.

It's that one there. So this one I'll go into her left-handed reach down down. If I didn't know where these holes were I'd have a hard time locating them I've got some experience with figuring that out so it seemed flawless. I Hear folks say you make it look so easy and I'm like I've been, uh, been plugging these holes for a long time.

Got plenty of Veteran experience in the industry. Okay, that one started and let me recheck my rear one. Yeah, that one's also started. Got to make sure they're all threaded in before we start applying torque.

Yep, and I'm going to start torquing this side right here. Switch out our ratchet, draw that one down. Clicks that one. move back to this.

This one missed it so much for experience. Bounced right off the rim. Get that one over there, mooving forward back to the rear most bolt on the driver side and its counterpart. Okay, two up front click.

Let's recheck them all real fast. That one's tight. That feels good. Bring it up on a little bit of extra torage here.

that was good, So on and so forth. I'll be back later. That was a 10 mil. Okay, now that we're done losing tools, Uh, let us go ahead and start reconnecting.

Uh, all of our coils and injectors and all that stuff that was disconnect earlier. So we've got number four. Coil is on, injector is on. This one is our number three.

I'm sorry, that's 8, 7, 6, and five. It's number four in a row. You know what I meant. Let's get these guys plugged in, reconnected, same thing with the coils, and then we'll go for the hoses and we'll go back to that side.

Get the intake, uh, throttle body on, take that, and uh, hopefully the rest of this uh job is going to go super smooth with uh with no problems. E A No problem. That's our Evap connector. We'll just slide that right on back and out of the way.

This guy plugs into this one, but I don't know where its little securement bracket device. Is they supposed to be? something that secures these guys? That one gets secured? Hang on. Look at this. We're still not routed properly that plugs in here.

See that? That means the other one plugs in on that back side. Stick you on right there. That's good. Okay, and then one more yeah.

I Don't know where this is supposed to go. There's supposed to be something that this thing clicks into and it's not. It's just not here. There's nothing to bracket this little wire on I Don't get it.

Oh well. I suppose I'll just run this down under here and connect it like so and I'll just leave this bracket here without a home. I don't I don't have. there's nothing here to mount it to.

So I don't really know I can zip tie it on just Chuck it down in there. that should be okay. Then this one fuel rail pressure sensor that clicks on there and then there's a incoming V hose. we talked about this guy earlier.

wiggle that guy on that's in position, all is looking well. let's get the other PCV hose attached and round. run back down to this uh driver side valve cover and then this side should be all set up and good to go. Sho Take our hose here.

uh I think we're going to snap it on the valve cover side first cuz that's under this little plate so we'll stick that guy. Can you guys see down there? Not really. There's no Lumin on this truck and nothing to see. No visibility.

Horrible job. And then we snap you right there. Clicks, clicks and double clicks. All right.

This side is all set up buttoned up. Good to go with the exception of the throttle body connector, which we can do that after we get the throttle body on and we can do that after we pluck this gasket out out and drop the new one in. Oh look at that. It came right out.

I was about to get aggressive with the pliers. put you down there, fetch your throttle body real quick, like set you in position. Four bolts on the throttle body unit. Do I have this right? They don't know? Sure.

I Hope I do. Where does that plug into? Not here? I have something wrong. You go into this one so if it does, I've got something wrong because my wires again are not reaching. That's not where that goes.

I've lost a connector. Hang on here. Confusion re this definitely points that direction. that's we know that it doesn't fit the other way so let's just secure.

Oh no. I'll be back. All right Intermission over. I Found the stupid thing that I dropped.

it was on top of the AC compressor. That was fun! I Also dug out the connector that I uh had neglected to remember earlier. So uh, is that the right one? Yes, let's connect that connector. get on there.

please. click. Okay, that connector's on. I have all four of the bolts including the one that I dropped.

Let's not repeat history and drop them again. Ray That was fun. It took a very long time to figure out where that thing went and I couldn't see anything. I was just down there kind of feeling around looking for The Sweet Spot I found it.

Oh and then I had to fish the thing out with a magnet. So let's get our throttle body tightened down here. Moving on. Game on.

Wayne Page Rice last one. Okay, it's all set. Throttle body is installed and attached. We have one more connector on this side and I do not know where it has gone to.

It's around here somewhere we'll find it. Is that it? No. Ah, there it is. It's right over here, dangling to the left so that's going to come up and over, Click you in and again.

There's another one of these clips that doesn't seem to have anywhere to go cuz we've got the wire here comes off the harness but there's really nowhere to connect that this is It's a casualty of War I suppose. Uh, either way, let's proceed I need to go ahead and get the fuel injector is reconnected on this side. There's two of them right there. the one up in the front.

Let's get you on and then there's the one out back. Okay, those guys are good and then the one way out back I don't know where that connector is either. I Stuffed it aside and tiing out. Let's get you snapped into your position there.

Okay, all four injectors are on. All four coils are on both sides. Throttle bodies on vacuum system is attached connected. All good to go.

Let's get the alternator back in position and then, uh, we'll get that guy hooked back up as well. All right alternator coming in and we can see the bottom of this alternator where the two bolts go through. These are slotted so we don't have to remove the bolts from the front of the engine. All we need to do is leave those two bolts hanging out right here and right here.

and then we'll just set that alternator down in position and slide it over those two BTS and we will tighten them down after we get the top bracket on. So let's fetch, fetch the bracket, swing this thing into position here, and we'll start with the connectors just to get that stuff out of the way. Uh, need to flip this bracket around cuz this gets pointed that Direction slide that under the hose and then we'll get our controller connector snapped in. that's right there.

Back our sheathing off some, push it back, wiggle that back. Come here, get that on top there and we need to find. Need to find the nut I think it fell off I Don't know where it is me, we'll get that nut in a second. I've got multiple Fasteners here that need to go in so we'll just start with those guys.

They're all 10 mil small little guys. Get those dudes all set up up in the alternator and that's going to align and locate the alternator and then we'll start to run down. Then we can run down. the bottom bolts and that will draw this alternator in flush with the block.

and then we'll come back up here to the top and tighten up. Uh, the top bolts here. So let's get that guy in and coming down in the hole behind. Let's get in there.

We're going behind our, uh, our hose here. Tight squeeze. Oh bad view too. Hang on fellas, let's get that guy a little tighter.

click next one nice and tight. a little bit tighter. I Think that wasn't much. Get back on there.

there we go. Okay, that one's in. let's get the top ones next. Last one here for the nater here to find that nut.

Well I have no idea where that nut went. so I'm just going to substitute that nut with another nut. It's the same kind of nut, but uh, the one that was in there I don't know where it went so we're using this one now I'm sure I'll find it. uh after we're all done here now.

I'm hanging on to this cuz I think if I put torque on this little fitting, it could break it off. So I'm pushing that way. my torque does not. uh, fatigue this plastic business right here.

So now we just got to take our little sheathing thing to protect the electrons. Put that on right there that's in good shape. Let's get the belt set up next, it's mostly ready to go. Uh, came off the power steering over here to our right.

That's just been resolved. It's all still lined up and in position. So let's go ahead. pull the Uh tensioner back up and over the alternator and right here below, right below us.

There on that pulley. we'll tension it some more, push it under that idler pulley and gravitas, and that belt is installed. With the exception of We Are One Rib off on that idler. There we go.

and a little bit off right here too. Okay, belts in, that's all set. Moving on. All right.

Belts on. Let's get the air filter housing assembly in position here. It's going to bolt in with these four bolts. two on this side, two over on the passenger side.

Let's get these guys started. Got one connector unit up top. that's where that random plug went to I knew we would find it, second bolt and then the two on the other side. Here, We're in the home stretch now.

everybody. Line up. get in there. That's good and we still have one.

one more. uh PCV hose that needs to go in as well. So let's get these brackets tight. these bolts right.

That one's not that didn't hook up there. Get in there. Sage This one over here twice. click I Have to use the wobble feature on the end again.

CU That guy right there. TI Number four and we have got to not forget or not not neglect. PCV This guy is going to click into the valve cover here and it goes this way. Valve cover here and then up onto this little uh nipple right up here.

So snap that one in and let's see how this gets routed. I Think it goes under. It's going to go under that hose. yes, and then into the valve cover, passenger side valve cover.

Put that in. Then we've got this little guy. Remember we were looking for that earlier that's going to snap on right there. so we're nearly in a position to to hit the key and get this thing running again.

Let me grab some tools off of here. got my magnet? toss that aside and we can get our intake unit on. I've uh, taken the opportunity when you guys weren't looking to, uh, kind of redo those connections on those wires? I'm feeling better about that stuff. Let me get my tape out of here.

get that unit plugged in there, plug it in right here. and then we've got one 10 mil Fastener right there that secures this whole uh, pipe assembly bit of business right here. Let's get that guy started. Zip it in there.

that one's in looking good, flashlight recovered. Let's uh, clean the mess out of here and go hit the key. Okay, let's get her back up in the air real fast. Do one more Underside inspection.

then we may break out the scan tool. We'll pull up the data pits, start the engine, and then first thing we're going to do is watch those fuel trim start to Trend positive because that O2 sensor is, uh, going to be functioning as designed I Think that's going to solve the majority of the issues with this? Um, I'll After a bit of a test drive or a few test d drives, we can re-evaluate uh, whether or not we need to do anything with that cam shaft actuator. You know the sprocket that we mentioned many times in this video and in the previous video? Uh, we'll check up on that engine condition. Uh, later on right now we want to get all the sensors talking to each other or talking to the ECM rather and doing what they're supposed to be doing.

That's plan. Unlock. Safy. Click There we go.

Okay, down below here. one of the first things that we were, uh, noticing when we first inspected. this is how this was just kind of dangling around and they had it connected here on that. Loop That's not where it goes so let's disconnect.

Come here. Come disconnected. There we go. Disconnect that and I Want to put this I Believe it goes right here.

so you got two holes and then the two pegs. so it makes sense that it goes there. since we know that goes there. we now know that this goes here.

so that's now reconnected properly. Now looking back up at the top, you recall there was one one spot for uh, that other little plastic little business and I don't not sure where that went I Kind of want to plug it into here, but this isn't really routed the best. Oh, look more of it. look at that one.

See that one. a little wire little Peg thing that goes in that bracket. See that I have that one wrong. That one looks good.

Why is there a uh, it's all burnt up and nasty. It's the shift cable. It doesn't go there either. I need to zip tie that away.

see how it's sitting on the exhaust? I'm going to zip tie it there just to keep it away from the exhaust. o Solving problems before they become problems. That's the it's a bonus. So let's see what we'll do I'll run this zip tie through transmission bell housing, pull that guy up and gravitas that didn't work trying again similar uh, concept, uh that we did on the wiring.

har up at the top, we'll just kind of zip tie this up to help bring it away from uh, that manifold. See that there? That's better. So now it's not laying on the exhaust. That's good.

Solve that problem and then taking a look at this side. that O2 sensor wire that's uh, all buttoned up and in position where it should be. So we are good there. That makes me happy.

Oh look, it has a broken toy bar link. It's not really broken, it's missing the the rubber out of it. See that I bet that makes noise too while driving has this side. Bust It Off Yer That one's junk too.

All right. it's looking good down here. Let's get out of here. Let her down.

Fire up the stand tool and uh, hit the key. Get this thing started. Back up. open all right.

Climbing back in here. Uh, get the keys back out. Fire the scanner tool up Scanner Derner see see here. Where's our dongle little connector? OBD2 right here.

Plug you in. beep scanner's powering on. Go ahead and key it on. I'm going to pull up fuel trims first and we want to take a look at uh at our fuel trim.

We're going to watch that thing start to immediately shoot positive. We're also going to take a look at that O2 sensor. That's where I want to start with. Then we're going to clear the codes out, go out and drive it, see what comes back up, and if more codes come back up, then we have to continue diagnosis and make additional recommendations.

If nothing comes back up. I'm going to give the car back and tell them to keep on driving it until something comes back up and then we can make additional recommendations when I start this engine. I'm going to get a quick snapshot up front to make sure or to see whether or not we hear that rattle noise on Startup It's been parked uh, engine shut off for two days today and yesterday, so that should be enough time to create the conditions that caused that rattle. So let we're going to what we'll do.

We'll do that right now. while this stuff's all pulling up. We want, uh, what do we want here we're looking for I want fuel system emissions fuel? There we go. Continuing, Come on.

Okay, scrolling down to fuel trims fuel trim, fuel Tri Fuel trim Long terms. oh, they're they're at zero right now probably cuz it's engine off. Whatever though, we'll come back to it real quick and we should see a uh, that fuel trim being stored. uh.

anyway, let's go over here. I'm going to reach in, hit the key we're going to observe for this rattle real quick and then go from there. All right, let's get to it. Beginning Engine stocking sequence now.

no cut scene Okay I heard no rattle. We got a misfire who? we got a lot of misfire. What? let check our connections, maybe something's disconnected? Shut her down. Little bit of poking around I don't think I had that injector uh, plugged in all the way.

So let's try it again. see if we killed our misfire that I just created restarting Z engine. Hey, she's smooth again. Okay, let's get back after that data as quickly as possible, trying to not break the scene here.

No cutcenes while we're trying to view live data, let's see what we get. scrolling down, scrolling down, scrolling down fuel trims. Look at that look. We were super negative.

Uh, long terms on number two are still in the negative. but short terms on number two. Look at that. They're seriously positive.

We're like Max 30, Max 40, 45 Positive. So that's going to bring this longterm up into spec. We'll give that a minute. Uh, let's go pull up our graph real quick and we would like to check the O2 sensor operation and see what's going on with our O2s.

Meantime: I'm going to fire up climate control scrolling down to O2s, pull up the graph. We're going to do a for graph and let's see mass airflow at the top. Get rid of that O2 sensor Bank One Sensor One Look at here. she's switching high, low, high, low Sensor 2 and Sensor 2.

Those are emulating each other. But more importantly, the sensor one on Bank two also high, low, high low. So we have an improvement here. They're doing what they're supposed to be doing.

So what I'm going to do? We're going to go into Codes menu. We're going to memory codes. We're going to clear them all out, reset again. Those are all of our Dtc's heater circuits system.

Rich Cylinder 3 injector fault. That's the one I just caused. Yep, Cylinder 3 was disconnected so we ended up with a P203 That happened real fast. Our 345 and 349.

Those are the cam shaft uh, position sensor circuit codes Power Steering We we got to get back to that one later. Intake runner stuck closed. Okay, so those all the codes that we had witnessed prior. Let's clear them all out.

Clear Key on and engine running Check Light off. Good to go Code's cleared. Exit: Let's go ahead and shutter down. Beginning of restart: Go back into codes: I'm looking to not see anything.

Let's see nothing. Oh no. Cam Shaft sensor Circuit: A Bank Two Okay, it's back. And Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit High.

All right. All righty. So since our 345 and 349 came back. Uh.

also that 553 came back. Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit High input. Uh, since that came back, we are going to have to diagnose this some more. but I'm still going to go drive it.

Uh, we're going to pull up data afterwards and we're just going to make sure our fuel trims are back in line because that was the issue with our lean problem. And I also want to see if we get that Imrc stuck closed? Uh. Trouble Code Back: Um, simply based on the fact that that uh, 345 cam shaft code came back I'm wondering if there's a a brake in that wire somewhere I Checked out. Um, what you call it the Uh I Checked out the butt connectors on that one side I redid the two on the other side that uh, they it's got the door over under I redid the two butt connectors on the other side that did not have a heat shrink built into them and I Rec convoluted all that stuff and I I wrapped it all back up so that should be in good shape I Don't think that those connections are the cause or the connector is the cause of that uh open circuit on cam shaft sensor position to that's a bank to driver side but uh, like I said, we're going to have to go back to that later.

I Was hopeful that it ended up being a uh, a bad connection or a a crappy butt connector or something like that. but turns out that's not the situation to hand. So wow, there we go. Yeah, that car scared me when it drove by.

Anyways, turns out that wasn't the situation, it wasn't a loose connection. uh, worst case scenario, there's a there's a break in The Wire Um, we can probably assume it's not the ECM because it has a new ECM We know it's not the connector and we know it's not the sensor cuz that's a brand new sensor and if I mean I can swap it out with the other side just to confirm that to make sure it's a that's 100% not a sensor issue we could have or they could have. Someone could have installed a a faulty part right out of the box, but you never know. a simple sensor swap would uh will eliminate that as a possibility.

Anyway, we're uh, we're approaching the bridge. we're going to do the up and over around and through thing, swing back to the shop, check our longterm fuel trims. hopefully our bank 2 has, uh, restabilized near zero and everybody's all happy. and then, uh, we can park this one and continue to diag tomorrow cuz we do need to figure out that 345 code and I'm not going to let it go with the camshaft issue because we need to determine if this engine has a problem or not.

it could be out of time. For all we know there could be an issue with that phaser and uh, it's throwing that code I I Don't think so cuz I think it would have gave a cam shaft correlation trouble code not a circuit code but again you you never know. Left turn coming up ah Fortune Smiles Upon me look at that, we got a Green Arrow coming in right here at the stop. that's good I don't like waiting uh-oh I see police law enforcement activity somebody got pulled over I've seen that van before I know that van.

it's a double pullover event. They got Spectrum and a car. Maybe there was an aident a collision fender bender here. Red light here.

Let's pull up our uh, our data real quick. Uh data. We're looking for sensor data still hanging out at the red E emissions fuel O2s green light. but I can't go.

there's other people going I'll wait my turn. No worries. let's pull up our for graph. Scroll it down to heated oxygen sensors I'm still checking the uh, still checking traffic here O2 Bank one.

Yeah, they're still running well. Bank one right here. bank one right here or Bank two Sensor One both of those Sensor One Those are good. Pulling up our Pids.

Let's go down to our fuel trims real fast. Like want to see these guys stabilizing? Look at that. NE 98 Uh, 10's kind of my threshold for Comfort This is really good. Much better than 28 29, 3045.

So our fuel trims have come much more positive. very close into spec that's not going to throw a code and like I said, plus or minus 10 on our long terms is exactly what we're looking for. Uh for adequate uh, fuel trims from our PCM So uh, at this point, like I said earlier, all we need to do is get that 345 code diagnosed. Um, worst case scenario: I Just I need to run a new wire from the ECM It's not the ECM it's not the sensor.

Uh, it's not the connector. I Don't think uh. the fix for that is going to be to pull out the wiring diagram. Uh, disconnect the connector that runs to that cam shaft position sensor and we're just going to M out both wires the uh positive and the ground.

we're going to M those out on both ends. So from the PCM side, we're going to put a meter lead and then down at the connector side. We'll put another meter lead check resistance on that circuit and then switch it to the next lead check resistance on that circuit. If resistance is good, we can load test it and it's either going to be a wire that won't carry the load or a faulty or an open wire.

Um, possible that we have a bad PCM but I doubt it. Um, I don't think it's that sensor but I can swap that side to side to confirm or deny whether the sensor is the issue or not. So having said all of that, I Have nothing more to offer you guys in this video except a giant thank you for watching this video. As always I Hope you enjoyed this video.

If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there. and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! I'll see you guys later into this video into this transmission into this: Ford diagnostic procedure. for now, we'll pick back up on this thing later on.

I'll let youall know at the very least what I find with that cam sensor I may not make a video about it I Don't want to keep running videos on the same Vehicles over and over again I Try to move on to something else. Let me know what you think about this thing again in the comments below. Thank you guys one more time for watching. Have a great day! I'll see you guys in the next one end of transmission.

92 thoughts on “New engine! full of codes! ford f-150 5.4 3 valve p0345 p0175 p0063 p2006 p2195”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars xXSaltyTryhardXx says:

    Haven’t read the other comments but the teflon tape should work great, plumbers have used it for many years. There maybe a slightly better version that’s specifically for gas lines and such. But even if the tape “fails”, so to speak, or melted etc, it would almost have to conform to the treads and create a good seal. Just my $.02.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ZanakinzMedia says:

    I used to be a mechanic for the military & I frequently fix my own vehicles… I still learned some new things today. Cloth tape? Genius. Some of the tools you're using would be perfect for situations I continually deal with. Genius. Sounds basic knowledge but honestly I have not been taught a lot of these things. I was not a vehicle mechanic but rather a flightline mechanic so maybe that's something to do with it lol.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars iillaamusic says:

    It's funny how I'd always think abt the lack of space for recording and the inability to take out clips by hand, until the day I tried to unplug the alternator connector by hand. There was no space, even for just my hand, and I couldn't remove the plug!

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars V R says:

    I don't understand how the code P2006 can exist without P2007, they are mechanically connected. Ziptieing (is that a word?) the harness to the fuel rail is the right solution, it worked for me.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eriksson Tord says:

    Where do you get that tape?!

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eriksson Tord says:

    That is how plumbers do pipe joints in Sweden. Never a problem!

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joshua Abshire says:

    The wireing harnesses looks like it mounts to the stud in the back on that imir. Looked like a metal tab on the wiring harness back there to mount to the top stud.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars matt man says:

    Its obvious they had a youngster do the install. Probably a good kid with not so good buddy helping him. Just a guess but kinda makes sense.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars beastbiker1 says:

    I can't stand seeing repairs that don't leave it in the factory or like factory condition. Like, come on, they dont make wiring brackets for no reason. You think it's bad in automotive try working on semi trucks

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nick Hoolihan says:

    PTFE is used in plumbing and is very good

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Queen Sapphire says:

    I remember the days when motors were not made of plastic.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Willmore says:

    I think we need a "Super phalanges strength!" T-shirt.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Alonzo Witt says:

    It's hard to find people today that takes a little pride in their workmanship! I wouldn't hesitate to take my automobiles to you!

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Guitargreat says:

    If you’re gonna wrap the threads with teflon tape then why not just use it correctly so it does its job!

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars yoster77 says:

    Do we have a part 3 on this one? I need closure lol.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Randy Branham says:

    I personally thank you need to find some of The Way to record as it been just with one hand working as a mechanic You need both Hands work not. 1 doing 1 thing and then another one doing something else but both of them working on the project you're working on take your something else out with the camera.

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars dkdj5 says:

    Would really appreciate part 3. Even if short telling what you found. Like your VIDs!🙂

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars CC RIDER says:

    It's to bad ford didn't stand behind and fix this piece of junk.

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars james lovitt says:

    Hated those intake R&R jobs on 4.6 Panthers, they're buried under so much stuff.

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Glenn Hinksmon says:

    Re- teflon i could see the twist method being helpful for course threads / junk parts, but for automotive I like the less is more theory. Too much of any sealant appears more prone to “migrating” and be sure not to interrupt grounding when applicable.

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William Wallace says:

    That teflon tape "string" hack looks like a real kludge. Just a suggestion– why not use the teflon tape the way it's intended to be used?

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Cory Wagner says:

    You dropping the bolt made me think that is why us men keep jars of old bolt, nut, and screws. My wife always tell me to get ride of them. I tell her some day I may need the one bolt. 🔩🔩🔩🔩

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars richard barnes says:

    Awesome video as always. love it.

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars gunztommiegunz says:

    No seals suck! I have only wrapped it and had it seal. But I’m sure if it gets in it will work for slight vacuum pressure if required

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Alistair Lewis says:

    Well done. Thorough +++

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars albert chavez says:

    The plumbers tape is first put on as a string leaving plenty of tape for a few wrap arounds on the string 🙂

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars scott crowley says:

    "Butt connectors", at least they're named right.

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars nelson glass says:

    Brass is a good for sealing… Teflon does not like heat…

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Donald Cockey says:

    Yes the teflon tap will work like that and it comes in a paste as well

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rikard Lalić says:

    Part 3 not available?

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joshua Deutschmann says:

    Ok so you've added a softer material to survey as a bonding agent. Right? Tef doesn't adhere. Right? A gasket is only there because a perfect mating surface doesn't exist. ? Regardless the material with more clamping Force that is to say toilet paper becomes immortal when smash between two bigger things. Gasket is only to fill out around a pebble or fill into a divot. It also has to expand and contract with the surrounding environment because ideally it should expand and create its seal every time the heat cycles up and then cures when it down cycles. When it cools off in other words everything shrinks together and you have a seal ready for the next time you go to use the engine and then it refreshes again until it can't no more

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Chris Brunson says:

    The little stuff that you care about is why I wish you were closer. Good job!

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars General Lucius Cornelius Sulla says:

    Now I'm convinced I'm going to replace my wifes 2010 Ford Edge engine myself. Already bought the reman. New Mexico is notorious for shoddy, lazy, negligent mechanics and workers in general. Half of them can't read, the other half don't care.

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lexion says:

    Women wonder why mechanics are so good with our hands.

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Johnie Symons says:

    Fold tefy in half.

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars david jones says:

    I actually caught myself looking up to check traffic at the left turn while you were checking the graphs. I’m too involved.

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kevin Basden says:

    The Teflon tape thing on the sensor is definitely not a bad thing. Everybody does it and it works. Who ya

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Roy Nelson says:

    Doesn’t that engine have a metal bracket that mounts to the top two holes in transmission

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Mollard says:

    That 05 200000 mile truck is cleaner underneath than my 17 88000 mile truck. It's crazy the difference between st louis where we do get salt and snow and Florida where they don't

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars terry brown says:

    Lmffao 😂

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars tony diodato says:

    All that stupid sensor does is measure the air temperature on the cylinder.

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars tony diodato says:

    All that stupid sensor does is measure the air temperature on the cylinder.

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Freddi Fish says:

    Would not use Teflon tape in that manner, wrapped the wrong way, as it's just going to push it out as you thread it in.

  44. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars c5back9 says:

    Pretty sure I saw the missing nut laying on the cowl.

  45. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matthew Dennis says:

    Dear Ray. The shop that worked on that poor horse was in the driveway! Good job on the factory routings and min. tapes! Should have offered a cooling system flush and thermostat, coolant diagnostic. It's the season! And you're in the hood, saves the customer money in the long run. Good job 2all 🥶🐲