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https://rainmanraysrepairs.myspreadshop.com/
Send support on Patreon, check out the bio: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage right now
Amazon List, must have for any toolbox!
ATD Tools 13782 10-Piece Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set https://amzn.to/3RV2fUB
Same as Matco. Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
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“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
By the way, I find a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol works great for cleaning PCBs (99% is best). CRC is great for contacts and corrosion as well.
o yes these "security systems" have made dealers bulk dollars LOL,as have DPF's on diesels that just dont work(vw "dieselgate" and toyota in australia/hilux/hiace) LOL
Ray wants to see the " unit " 😸
Fascinating 🤔
"Ah Magoo you've done it again." You're the reason I take my vehicles to someone who knows what the hell they're doing. Nice job sir!
Reeeeee you can't do that…. lol
No wire brush on PCB. The surface mount part will flake off. Use a soft plastic brush and 100% Home Depot Alcohol or Circuit solvent. Then Conformal Coat it with Silicon Conformal coating. Put Silicone Grease in the connector.
I Love watching you do youre best Inspector CLEASEAU impersonations for the OWNERS !
How about the leak?
I'm a strong believer in coating printed circuit boards with a conformal coating. Conformal coatings protect PCBs from moisture. In the case of that PCB, it looks like the traces were eaten away. While it's sometimes possible to repair, you need to know what the traces were, to begin with.
I design PCBs as a hobby, and any PCBs I have that might be exposed to moisture I coat with conformal. Conformal doesn't add much to the cost, but it should be a requirement for PCBs installed in cars.
I noticed the PCBs in my 2013 Tesla Model S are protected with conformal.
Thats funny, When I got my 07 GMC last year w/95k on it I noticed big water stains in the same spots. I wonder if the tsb got addressed already. My key fob w/remote start works fine. Good to know if it goes bad after the extended warranty expires.
You fixed the problem, but what about the cause to the problem with the crappy sealy leaky light?
What a bunch of rolling junk.
With a FOB issue like this, I would start to think of stolen vehicle as an option. I would tell the customer to go to the dealer to fix it as their FOB doesn't match the security of the vehicle. Especially since you saw that the security device was handled. That is a MASSIVE red flag.
Yes, you saw what looked to be natural, but it was shady at first.
I put a ice box made by igloo behind my peterbilt and strapped it down over the lid and used the handles as well to tie it down. Drive through a rain storm and water found it’s way inside. Nasty dirty road wash water. Point being when it comes to dynamic air pressure and heavy saturation of water nature will find a way to ruin your lunch.
4th wire is the antennae
If you have a tpms tool they can usually test key fobs
I could hear the screams when that drill-mounted brush fired up! 😉 For electronics repair, Rossmann Repair Group does a pretty good job of explaining (and fixing macbooks). Mostly, they clean corrosion with flux and solder. One of their mantras is not to clean the board *first*, 'cause that removes "evidence", that helps you spot exactly where the problem is…
If Chevy is anything like Ford, to program key fobs, you turn the key on and off until the door locks cycle, in Fords, this happens to be 8 times. When this happens, press any key on the new fob. Then try to lock or unlock the doors. If it works, proceed to the next fob. I have replaced my fobs a few times and this method has always worked for me. The important thing to know is, do all the fobs at the same time. Any that you do not reprogram will not work and you will have to go through the whole programing cycle again.
You know the worst thing I've ever had to diagnose was a my mom's 2011 Equinox, It would start most of the time, other times it would not, but it would crank, no security light when it didn't start, I reprogramed the BCM, I tried a different BCM, This thing took months to figure it out, and here it was stupid fob, it had the switch blade style fob and something was going on with it and not communicating with the car right, bought a new one and reprogramed it and it was fine, we were real close to just selling it and getting something else, even the dealership didn't have a clue.
Good find Ray! I'm surprised that a busy shop like yours doesn't have a AcDelco TDS subscription for programming GM modules, as common an issue as it gets to be? That's our daily grind at TAE, an auto electric shop in Va Beach, the destination for every electrical/electronic problem the dealers and other shops can't figure out…. we've seen SO MANY corroded computer modules, CAN bus wire harnesses, data lines… and probably the worst offender is blocked sunroof drains… yup, if drivers with sunroofs only had their drains cleared every so often, they could avoid thousands of $$$ in electronic repairs… it's gotten Cliche around here, if a Mercedes or BMW or VW comes in with electronics issues and/or battery drains… does it have a sunroof?! OH well, they keep us in business!!! Keep up the good work and the most entertaining and informative videos!
It's odd the the seam on that CHML seal is located on top where it can fail when it invariably shrinks. Placing the butt joint on the bottom of the fixture would seem to alleviate issues like this leak.
It was 1155am before it was sent to the dealership and now the clock displays 1254pm. That is the quickest I've ever seen a dealership do anything other than sell a vehicle!
Seen and attempted to fix corrosion easily as bad as that in many pinball and video arcade games.
It usually doesn't help things.
Of course GM would not coat that module with either good conformal coat or pot the thing into a brick. They used to.
BMW can disable immobilazer with bad door handle with comfort access,so you cant start car..
I believe the 4th wire is the receiver antenna
Those GM key fobs are junk. I have an 08 Saturn Aura with the same fob and I had to put a shim inside to allow the battery to make contact otherwise it wouldn't work
You can program the fob on the little control panel to the left of the steering wheel. I've never had that fail.
I have a older Ford and apparently just like GM when you get out of your driver’s door everything else stays locked is there a fuse or is there something you can do to make when you open the door everything unlocks because it is annoying as hell and I’m sure I’m not going out there
The circuit boards in the remotes develop micro cracks that will cause problems.
You were sooo close! Subject to verification, but I believe that module is plug and play. I could not check my resources to be sure. The remote itself is on-board programmed, as detailed in the owners' manual. There are 2 different procedures.
For vehicles without the DIC, and for the one with DIR ( Driver Information Center controls, which can be the 4 vertical buttons to the right side of the cluster, left side or BOTH sides ( varies by YM on GM ) We do lots of remotes and keys, so your video is excellent, as I got SCHOOLED on one of the failure points I never knew about. I hope you sealed up that brake light with a gasket, or at LEAST one can of flex-seal! Great Video!
2010 Chevrolet Silverado Keyless Entry Remote
WITH DIC
1. Insert Key and turn to ON position so you can access Driver Information Center
2. Press the vehicle information button until PRESS TO RELEARN REMOTE KEY displays
3. Press the set/reset button until REMOTE KEY LEARNING ACTIVE displays
4. Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the keyless remote at the same time until a chime will sound indicating that the remote is programmed. This can take 10-20 seconds
5. A additional remotes at this time repeat step 4.
6. Exit programming mode turn key off and remove key.
Test all remotes
WITHOUT DIC
1. Press the odometer reset until RELEARN REMOTE KEY illuminates
2. Press and hold the trip odometer reset stem for three seconds. REMOTE KEY LEARNING ACTIVE will display.
3. Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the keyless remote at the same time until a chime will sound indicating that the remote is programmed. This can take 10-20 seconds
4. For additional remotes at this time, go to step 3.
5. Exit programming mode. Remove key, open door
Test all remotes.
My first vehicle with remote locks, one day I pressed the button on the key fob, the door didn’t unlock. I stood there for a bit, now what do I do? How do I get in now? Then it dawned on me, use the key like I used to use on my last car, duh. It was just a bad battery in the fob. 🤪
Nylon brush will kill semiconductor components by way of creating high voltage static while brushing. In this particular case it didn't matter since the module was already dead. Do that to the PCB of a working unit and it will work no more.
Thinking back to recall a very specific bulletin like this is why I would want Ray to be my mechanic if I lived in the area of the shop.
Love your work. I wish there was more honest mechanics around like you. Thanks you Ray and have a great day. From TN
My BMW 550 had all kinds of electrical demons that I was able to track down to some corroded modules. BMW decided the best place for them to be installed was in the trunk, underneath the spare tire at the bottom of the tire well: you know, the place where very bit of moisture that makes it into the trunk winds up. "German quality", my ass!
Good memory, Ray- you remembered hearing that those high-mount brake lights can leak onto the remote widget module. And, man, that PCB sure was nasty looking.
WHAT! Oh, ok
Commjnication codes are a annoying I believe they are everyones cryptonite. Its mine also.🤢
The module may very well have come programmed to the two fobs included with it. If he didn't check those first, he just made more work for himself. (The video doesn't show him testing those fobs but showed two fobs being programmed, hence why I say this.)
What I was hoping to see was you sealing the high brake light so this didn't happen again
It's amazing how many more crap issues like this, the rear leakage, electronic engine control, etc., my GM trucks seem to have after my 2004 then that one and earlier models. Aren't manufacturers supposed to refine their function and reliability over time?
The autel TPMS tool has a remote tester built in I have the 508 it shows frequency and strength, I think I have seen you using one before ? No? Anyway just a fyi
1st class Ray ….thanks for sharing
I can't believe they didn't have you fix the leak and the rear driver's side door Handel. Great vide ray
These Silverado's seam to fail a lot. You have a lot of them in the shop.
manufactures need to 100% of the time conformal coat all of their pcb's, this would eliminate a wide variety of these issues. Back in the oil field everything we built and back in the early 2000's we hand built and soldered everything, was always heavily coated, you could run everything under water and never have an issue
Fob not working? It's Pe-tah's fault! : )
Ya man. You can clean that up all you want and it wont do jack. Nice diagnosis.
Fun battery facts: CR2032: C is for lithium. R is for round. 20 is 20mm diameter. 32 is for 3.2mm thick. CR2025 would therefore be lithium round 20×2.5mm, in other words a bit thinner than a cr2032 and therefore less capacity.
Great work, sure wished you gave the cost on these repairs.
Hey Ray. If you are ever working on a GM and need to know if the module needs to be "programmed" and how to do it you can find it pretty quick in service data. Put in the usual Y/M/M or the VIN in service Info, then in the search look up "control module references." It will take you right to the entire list of all modules and their respective programing and set up procedures using TLC/SPS for GM or anything else that may be needed after the initial programming. Also if you look at the sticker on the module it has the little picture of the half car with a wrench under it I believe it is. That is the "requires programming" symbol 👍🏼
-Cheers Buddy!
It's obvious the remote control needs to change the batteries
My cobalt does this same exact shit 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good detective work Raymond
YEARS AGO,
I bought an explorer eddie bauer used. One day not long after I bought it,
The electronic keypad on the dr door would not work. As soon as I opened
the door w the key, an alarm went off. I didnt realize this car had an alarm.
Under the hood I cut the speaker to shut the alarm the hell up. I found the
car woulkd not crank, all the doors & windows would not work. I found that
probably the 1st owner had installed a top of the line alarm which was wired
into the vehicles harness & disabled EVERYTHING. I had to cut the alarm
out of the system to get my car to operate normally. It took me ALL DAY to
do so. What a headache.
!
back in the 70's Ford made the ignition module as a big block of epoxy. there was no way to repair it an it would fail frequently. if this piece is getting wet, maybe they should dip that circuit board in epoxy and put some silicone on the wires.
F–king impressive!
Did you not check/repair leak that caused the problem? Did not see any mention of sealing it.
I would have slathered that board in dielectric grease just to ensure that thing can never corrode again since that poor design lets water in.
Had to run a Bead of Silicone around inside seal on Cab Brake on my 2008 Ford Truck, moisture was always getting inside light housing when I washed truck…
My 2015 Silverado leaked at antenna on roof
Good work Ray
Kumputers are scary… CAN systems are brutal I hate them. Ask me about OEM manufacturers GPS systems and how to yeet them into the air for target practice at the gun range 😛
Ray you were on it like a hobo onna ham sammich..great gadzooks you nailed it. Stay safe and be well.
Good move, you could have sealed it that high mount brake light, but the next guy that had to replace a bulb in it would have been pissed. Plus the bulb sockets looked like they had a case of the green crusties anyway.
THey programmed new key fobs forum and u deleted it…c c c
Electrical Contact Cleaner = Good Rotary brush on a drill motor = Bad!
Old Tootbrush or hand brush = Good
Right up until the receiver got replaced and everything got back into working order, I was wondering if maybe they had something as simple as the wrong battery in the fob. I had an issue with mine not too long ago (backstory: bought vehicle used, had no fobs with it, had to get and program new ones). Initially, it just didn't work, so I figured it was a security system issue. But, since such things can be expensive and or unobtainium for older vehicles, and I don't have a fancy scan tool… I sat on it for a while and did some research, making sure I had the right fob for the vehicle (I did), making sure I had the right programming procedure (I did), and trying to check up on other security system parts in case I needed to parts cannon the thing. It wasn't stopping me from getting in and driving, it was just obnoxious and inconvenient because there's only two exterior locks on the truck…and a total of five doors. I can live with that sort of thing for a while.
In checking up on everything though, I needed to get the model number for the fob. So I hit the fob with a bright light to read the stamped in text, and noticed the battery requirement. Fob wanted a CR2025 battery. Since they didn't come with their own batteries, I had just used a spare battery from my previous vehicle's fobs, thinking there was only the one type of coin battery. (Hint: there isn't.) Not having the package for the thing by that time, I popped open the fob to verify the right battery was in there. It wasn't. It was a CR2032. There's not much of a difference between the two–they're the same voltage, sides are the same polarities, they're even the same diameter! The only difference is that the 25s are a tiny bit slimmer in profile (or height/depth, or you prefer), and that made all the difference. Couldn't tell you why, specifically, all I know is that the fob works fine with the right battery in it. Lesson learned, for me, anyway. 🙂
More GM junk!!!!!!!!!
Don't use a wire brush on the board you will damage the small capacitors with it.
Use a toothbrush and electronic cleaner instead.
U codes are a waste of time. We have the same issues with comm circuits in the world of forklifts. Most of them end up being nausance codes.
On my Subaru keyfob, the switches are a common failure point. I fixed mine by resoldering the switches down, and that lasted for a couple years before starting to have issues again. Being surface mount parts with no tabs sticking out to solder made it difficult to do a good job on that. Will just replace it this time.
if they took the fuse panal apart how about you reprogram the key fob
To program new fobs on my 2001 Explorer, all you have to do is turn the ignition on and off rapidly 7 times, when you turn it on the 8th time, the doors lock and unlock, then you just press the lock and then the unlock buttons on each fob you want to program. Turn off the key then start the vehicle and you are good to go. Apparently newer vehicles now require a code scanner with programming mode.
Needs a sunroof.
U code = fu code
I have a 2011 ram
Same problem with the leaking 3rd light ( if any viewers have a ram)
you think that they would have put some type of protective water proof cover over the board if this was a known issue…
Once again, I see water leakage around non -moving parts in Chevy's (around windshields, doors, rear windows and backup lights on cab) …been there and done that a lot in the past. Come on GM, improve your quality control fit and finish.
Nice to see many of you typing "fob" rather than FOB — because it's a word, after all, not an acronym. It's from the "old days" before people wore watches on their wrists. The fob was a small pocket into which the watch was placed. It comes from the German word fuppe, meaning a small pocket.
I've had trouble with the tiny contact pins inside these fobs having an intermittent or no contact at all with the battery. You can very carefully bend the tabs for a better connection but be careful, they break easily and you'll have to solder it to fix it.
Make sure you put a bead of sealer along the top edge of that new light too.
There's a connector missing that connects the battery on the deadhead side of that key fob. Or at least it appeared that the connector for it is missing.
Repair shops pray that GM will make vehicles forever – it’s their bread and butter. That’s some quality design right there
Hey, Ray.. I sent you an email about the M12 Solder iron FAIL.. Read the reviews on that thing.. Seems it has a melting connection in the metal to plastic part. Maybe some high temp Teflon tape might help make it last longer. Anyway.. love to hear your thoughts about it.. Good day sir!
I used Frost King R338H Self-Stick Rubber Foam Weatherseal, 3/8"W, 3/16"T, to reseal my 3rd brake light. Just fyi for the diy to pinch penny's. Cheers Ray!
I use deoxit and a tooth brush on coroaded electronic circuit boards and have gotten great results better than any other electronic sprays.I cleaned a board on an Audi that looked trashed and didn't work and brought it back to life in a couple minutes which saved hundreds of dollars.I use that product on all dirty automotive pluggins.It's not cheap but gives great results but use sparringly because it doesn't take much
That is my truck and after 2 years of crazy intermittent problems, 1 private mechanic and the Chevy dealership scratching their heads I am soooo happy for my friend recommending Ray to check it out. I admit if I could afford a new truck I would have drove this one into the Gulf. After spending enough on all my repairs I almost paid for a truck. Needless to say I have found my goto mechanic. Very impressed he remembered a issue about water intrusion but the dealership had no clue. Awesome catch
Just saw a video on youtube, no need for scan tool to program fob
Needed to return to dealer to program this is a shame!
That's GM quality for ya.
Incredible editing with the nylon brush on circuit board. It was intense! I almost peed myself.
Good morning to you Ray!! Awesome job with this truck!!!