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Support the channel on Patreon check out the bio: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads is all that I can manage right now
Must have for any toolbox!
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
GearWrench Hose Clamp Pliers: https://amzn.to/33YCVJ3
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 8 https://amzn.to/3mPnpFA
Gopro Hero 9 https://amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 8 Dual Charger https://amzn.to/3EId84c
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
You clean with brake clean but then contaminated pads and rotors with grease covered gloves.
Great job.
Have you got shares in the Brake Cleaner company? You used enough to bathe in it 🤣
I’ve always had issues with those autozone shims all the time
Thanks for the extra time you take to make a video that is aggrivating as it is
Nah no need to thread lock, never did that when I worked at my fathers shop in the 90's. Used lots of copper grease though.
Changing to fresh fluid thru out and bleeding out air is a necessary step here. The one caliper extended spells trouble down the road. Replace caliper there. The heat generated already has degraded the fluid from that one wheel. The metal on metal vs pad on rotor gets it griddle-hot for cooking steaks or a dozen sunny-side eggs.
Guess it's hard to hear the metal to metal grinding with the music up loud? This was close to abuse.
The very same situation happened to me in my Ford E250 service van, , ,It went through tje metal plate and I"ve never felt it. . .In my cars, it is evident when there are no brake pad left, like you just observed . . the whole car makes grinding sound. . but not my truck. .
whenever I retract the caliper piston, I always remove the fluid reservoir cap to keep an eye on the level.
surprised you didn't get a copywrite thing tbh
Watching you do a brake job from the rust belt… you guys get to skip like 1/2 the cleanup & prep we have to deal with … Ill come down there and slam out brake jobs all day long lol
Great Vid, where on earth did you buy that socket with a wirebrush!? That could be very useful for my older car.
Insert positive comments here.
Shims not fitting Duralast pads that physically come with the kit… what else is new. I've literally had to grind some of the pad tabs in order to make them fit before. Ive always given the shim tabs a pinch once on, they almost never fit it if the box.
No lube no antiisieze on screws and hub for the next guy most be flat rate
You need to be sponsored by a brake clean company for sure!
If vehicle is older than 6 years we change all 3 rubber brake hoses and brake system fluid flush just added safety
Visualize this :
My daughter let he brakes get so bad the left rear Rotor was worn down to about 1/16" thick and then was grabbed and broken off from the parking brake drum, and held in place by the completely frozen caliber/depleted brake pads as the parking brake drum continued to rotate with the wheel. This made a sound as if there were a bad wheel bearing of which she was completely oblivious.
I have had trouble with autozone brake pad. I always touch the ears with a fiber pad on a die grinder to clean them up and always grease the clips to prevent rust
I got my fair share of shim struggle. Usually on the rusted brackets. Cleaning them off helped a bit.
Yea man it works way better when you have the brackets off the car to install the pads. I did my rear brakes on my 2016 optima and the caliper bolt broke due to the thread locker that was used when mines left the factory. It snapped clear in half soo i had to order new caliper bracket
Routine pads and rotors replace nothing exciting
Just a routine pads and rotors replace
Just as always I'm here for the brake cleaner shots. 😂 J/K
Me and the fam just went out for Sunday dinner. Got full came home. Changed into comfy lounging clothes, now in bedroom relaxing in recliner watching "Tha Rainman".
This is watchu call…. "Liv'n Tha Life.. aaahhhhh😎👍🏾
that caliper compression tool is cool!! I normally just use big ol water pump pliers, however, I am dont do this stuff for a living
I got the same ridgid impact wrench. The best.
I've heard Permatex synthetic lube is not compatible with rubber despite the label info. The company does sell a silicone version.
I want to know what socket/rust removal gizmo that is! I’ve never seen that before.
your so dramatic lol
You failed to hand verify the caliper attach bolt torques. Always a good practice to never trust you impact wrench.
Amazing channel. Subbed. Do you accept suggestions for future videos?
Where can I get the air hammer phillips screw extractor?
I like that brake caliper tool, what make is it?
Where did you purchase that tool for the rotor screws
no threaddlock, im good with, but how about a little silver snot? lol
My Kia had the same issue with the shims not fitting. Also, had to file off the burr on the pad ear stamping. The pads didn't slide on but had to force them on a bit. The pads wouldn't release right after braking. Changed pads again and had to do the same with another set of pads too. Must be something about the Kia and not getting the pads right.
QUESTION: 2016 RX350 rear brake pad squealer started sounding at 270k. (We are volunteers who drive the used Lexus transporting blood to distant hospitals.)
Could not push each brake piston in because its electric parking brake motor turned the threaded shaft out – adjusting from the brake pad wear.
Had to moveach parking brake motor and screw the threaded shaft in. Fit the caliper piston over the new brake pads.
The new brake pads work perfectly, but now have message: "Electric Parking Brake Malfunction". (We never use thelectic parking brake.)
Suggestions? Thank you.
Saw my first video today. Love your work ethic. I have family in the auto biz and same goes with great work ethics. Personally, I would use OEM brake parts. Thanks for a great informative video.
Q: Would you recommend using "anti-seize compound" around the mounting bolts before installing brake rotors? Learned a lot. Thanks. 🥰
The dumbest thing he does is he uses an air wire brush tool to clean the wheel bearing before putting on the new rotor .
He forgot the anti-seize. Why clean it and not anti-seize between the bearing and rotor . Even where it's warm weather they get rain. When you push your brakes they get hot and it still can rust.
I'm surprised he didn't fuse the rotor . I did my caravan after it went 80 thousand klm. I couldn't get the front ones off .You need a torch to heat them before hammering them off . I was replacing the rotors too anyway so I didn't care about hurting them. My mikanick said all of newer cars have enough anti-seize
put on them . I put it on good on the back and he said he looked at my job and said he liked my job.
And brakes wearing bad on one side is usually a tire is low making the brake work harder. Also the drivers side has someone in the seat the passenger side
doesn't always so drivers side will wear more .The fluid if being done at a garage they use a tool that pumps to all brakes from master cylinder.
I had a friend do my brakes and he used it on my truck . It feels
master cylinder and let it run without pumping . Once it has no bubbles and runs clean I tighten the nipple put fluid and cap then pump. I never had air in my brake lines .
Because I only do brakes on our vehicles .
Thx for actually torquing lug nuts on! Just put my summer wheels back on. Three wheels way over tightened and one so loose I’m surprised I didn’t have a very bad day! I will never go back to the shop in town!
When putting the wheels back on just put the milwuakee tool on setting 2 and screw on the nuts(with a normal socket). Its about the same as the torque extension thing u were using
sorry ray, but this was a really poor brake job
1. brakes are major safety components and all parts must be torqued, running the slide pins and caliper hold down bolts down with an impact and not checking them later is imo just as bad as putting wheels on with a torque stick but never properly torquing them
2. no grease on the surfaces that the brake pads touch, if they seize up the customer will have a big problem
3. you didnt check the brake fluid reservoir once even with the overextended piston, it's possible that pushing both back caused it to overflow and if it doesnt get noticed the customer could end up having low fluid which can then lead to air in the system
4. this ones a bit controversial but i like to put a bit of anti-seize on the wheel hub before putting on the rotor so it's easier for the next guy to remove
usually a big fan but i couldn't overlook these on this video
I am curious. Why was the wear on the pads so much more severe on one side than the other?
Consider cleaning the brake bracket with a steel wire brush prior to reassembly. A small brush will clean the slots the brackets go into. I clean every surface I can access with a rotary brush on my drill. Also, consider applying a small coat of anti-seize to keep the rotor from sticking to the hub. Just an idea….
What was wrong with the old rotor, extra braking power
Customer states what channel giggity
Thread lock… I would add never seaze…
no overhaul the caliper if seized clean, possibly use wet and dry paper on the bore and piston and replace the seal. !!!
It's nice to see you don't edit out the small mistakes 😁