Part 1: Parts Cannon!! Can it be saved? 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/XGx5cooQLQY
Part 2: Frustrating Diagnosis! It LIVES AGAIN! Jeep Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/ZPBWAGcc-8M
Part 3: Old Jeeps Die HARD! Thermostatic Switch and Water Pump! 95 Wrangler 4.0
Part 4: Razor Sharp Gears!! NOT Good! Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/Q5irXiktUbI
Part 5: Smallest Shaft Ever! FRIED Flywheel! | Project JEEP! 1995 Wrangler YJ https://youtu.be/p7x3vBUR-RQ
Part 6: Exhausting! Project Jeep YJ 4.0 Wrangler https://youtu.be/NHKetNC9LFs
Part 7: COST ME BIGTIME! OOPS! Limited Slip Differential! DANA 35 Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 YJ https://youtu.be/n1MQSX3uepM
New "Wife unit" T-Shirts & Designs for the Season! https://youtu.be/6T_32dnOgTg

Customer States: Engine barely runs and has a severe lack of power. It also has the occasional no start or long cranking before it starts. So far I've found vacuum leaks, clogged ports, antifreeze leaks from the water pump and the electric fan is damaged. I had the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. It also has a new coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP, intake temp, IAC and throttle position sensor replaced. The ECM / PCM has been replaced too. See part one.
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Oh hello moped man looked like a GTA character. Hi everybody, good day to you! Welcome back to project. Jeep Uh, you will notice that the rear wheels are on said Jeep At this point I'm trying to make a push to get this thing done ASAP because uh, in a few days this wall right here is coming down and the shop is expanding into this section over here. So in order to demo this wall properly I need to get this thing in a, uh, a decent condition where it can move and I could move it right now.

but then I've got to bring it back in later. What? I think I want to do is just go ahead and finish this up. get the rest of this knocked out, re-gear this front differential and put that limited slip in and uh and then our wheels back on and we should be good to go. So uh, let's uh, let's make hasten get to it.

I'm gonna go ahead and pull the steering linkage off of here just to get some access and some clearance and we'll pull these axles out uh, breaks off of course and then we'll pull this unit out of here. And today it's the black subscribe button because it's not green rolling rolling rolling. Let's get the roll cart rolled in. Let's go ahead and start at the left front.

that'll work Okie Dokes Like I said. First things first. uh, steering linkage is gonna come off. that stuff's in the way.

So let's get this out of here. Let's start with the left front tie rod. foreign flip That castle nut over this right here. This is the Uh I'm not using a puller method I flip the castle nut over in case I needed to.

uh, give the stud a tap. You can't hit the castle side because it'll just deflect the nut and it'll ruin it and that would be bad. Let's see here. let's just kind of: why don't you want to come out? It won't go down far enough to release.

um what is that? That doesn't make any sense to me? All right, let's try to turn this this way some maybe that'll give me the space I need sure will. Okay, that's loose. let's move over to uh, the pitman arm next and break that guy loose. Now this one's a little harder to do because I think you can get that guy to come out of there? It's harder to do because there's a there's no space in there.

See that computer cotter pin? No I mean that come out? Oh I cut it. Okay, no worries I'm not gonna reuse it. Uh-huh Leverage Oh, it just broke. That's fun.

There we go. Got it. Yeah, no power tools in there I Don't think unclick keys got it? Not out of the woods? Yeah, it's still stuck in there I Have an idea. Yeah, that's better.

Went right in, no problem. Now when I tighten down this bolt right here, it's going to, uh, act on the business end of this puller and it's going to push that stud through the pitman arm. I Love Force multipliers Incoming loud noises to start to feel like it's going to get a little violent. You're Gonna Go Come on, you're getting sketchy.

Oh, it's starting to bend. Yeah, that's that. Harbor Freight Quality right? there. Is this gonna work? No, not gonna work.
We're losing the tool. Maybe I need to readjust and try again. Let's back this off. Foreign Freight Puller This is the Uh OTC equivalent, which is a brand name.

The Harbor Freight one was just uh. well, it's just whatever I think that's uh, it's in there. Yeah, yeah, we're good. We're in all right.

Here goes: Nothing. Whew. Got it. Moving on.

let's get the passenger side next. All right. Same procedure here. on the passenger side.

pull the pin after we get all the dirt out of it. Rear Jeep Dirt Pull that guy out. comply I Don't know what that was, but it fell out I think it was a washer. Hmm I was not doing it.

Uh well. we got the puller here. Encore I Will turn that. Oh oh, we got it.

pretty sure. Yeah, we got it. Let's pull the steering stabilizer off and that's that. All right here.

Let's get this steering stabilizer out of here and the entire steering linkage assembly is now free. mostly. I Got to get it out of that spindle there. knuckle.

There we go. I'll slide this guy out through the driver's side here. Okay, now we can get this axle nut off of here. and then we'll move on and pull the the brake caliper off and then we can pull this rotor off.

Then we can pull the axle out. Come on. Pin Bro, there we go. Leverage I Love Leverage Oh, and we lost it.

That's the pin. I Cut it. Side cuts are great for pulling pins because they dig in. but if you, uh, dig too much, it cuts it in half.

This is what I've just done. save our castle nut. We need that and this little anti-rattle shim. We need that too.

It keeps the nut from flippy flopping around axle nut and it's washer. Need a magnet? Look at that later. Okie Dokes two 12 mil bolts on the back side of this caliper here and the caliper will be free. 13 mil bolts hanger in here.

Okay, here comes another dirt. Avalanche You see all this in here? It's not good. I'm out please. Oh, come on.

Foreign. There we go. All right. Calipers out.

Let's pull this rotor. Set that aside. All right. let's pull these uh, hub bearing bolts out.

Easier said than done. I'm out. Okay, well, there's one now. Why won't this one come out? Because it's rusted and stuck? You lose.

Yeah, look at that rusted and stuck. and there's one more on the back side over here. That socket's getting warm. Okay, that one came out.

Flawless Victory Now this, uh, this bearing here is gonna be a little difficult to remove. I'm going to encourage it to come free. Oh never mind. I'm wrong.

For me, it's coming out. Look at that. It's like it's bringing the axle with it. We don't want that.

Let's push that axle back. There we go. There's our bearing backing plate. hold that those decide because now I would like to pull the axle out.

The U-joint feels good and there's a little stubby shaft. Set that aside and there's a lot of dirt in here. No worries. Okay, let's go over to the driver's side and, uh, repeat.
set procedure. Okay, I'm gonna start with the caliper on this side just to just get it out of the way. and since the tools are fresh and on top of the pile, foreign order of operation isn't uh, terribly critical. so I can deviate slightly if I choose which I do I'm an impulsive creature.

Come on. Jerk filled caliper. Oh what's in there? All right, that's the side rotors off. Grease spewed out I told you I greased those uh, those U-joints the other day.

see? yeah! I'll clean that off later. Yep, let's go ahead and break that right now. Nice coming right out. Oh Andy Grab a flip.

Got it. See? where's that 36 again and wheel bearing bolts. We'll see if these guys are going to come out. Yep, times two Foreign real quick.

Let's break this axle free of the uh of the bearing protecting the threads. Here we go. Hey girlie! Thank you Fixing project Chief What are you doing out here? Come out, come out bearing got it. bearing, backing plate and axle number two.

Another little study guy. It's well lubricated. Okay, now that all this stuff is out of the way, let's go ahead and pick this up some. so I can stand under here and we're going to pull this front differential out.

Okay Ducks This differential is going to come out of there the same way that the rear did. Two bolts, two caps, and the whole unit comes on out. I'm keeping track of where these go because these caps cannot switch locations so they're being oriented the same and they're being placed next to each other that way. I Know now on the long side of this uh of this axle right here.

there is a a mid shaft inside of there and I think I should be able to push it through. Uh no no I believe that's C-clipped Yeah! I'm gonna have to pull that apart I Was hoping to just be able to drop this differential out, but it appears I was mistaken. Okay, now there is a half shaft in here. I'm gonna try to just push that guy all the way through I don't want to take this differential apart because it doesn't have a bolt for the master pin.

it's got a it's got a roll pin shoved in there and I don't feel like messing with it. so I'm just going to push that axle in that way and that should give me. yeah, enough space to pull the seat apart. Let's get this guy out of here.

I Think this has recently been rebuilt I See some nice shiny shims back there on this pinion and it's uh, pretty clean. Come out please. What are we doing? Nope. Foreign.

I Think that axle's still hanging up on this bearing right here. All right. What I'll do is I'm going to reach through over here with the screwdriver and try to push that axle the rest of the way out. I think I can barely reach it if I can get past that Master pin turn this I can't see what I'm doing here which I'm not going to get past that Master pin.
Okay, maybe if I go in this way. Negative: Okay, you know what I'm trying to do here is is reach in and keep moving that axle a little farther farther down. that way that way this unit can come out but having a hard time reaching it. Now here, let's see if I got enough.

Have it pushed in enough now because I think I did get it with that little uh angled pry bar guy and survey says it's still stuck. Yep, it's still stuck in there. All right. we're pulling out the big guns when all else fails.

Coat hanger, wire coat hangers for the win. So I can bend this however I want it. Problem with this is is it's not very very strong. Foreign: Oh I have an idea I'll fold it in half and that gives me twice as much hanger.

There we go. Now it's twice as thick. Okay, we need a little bit of a Bend here. There it goes.

Got it now. I could pull this differential out foreign. Don't make a liar out of me. There we go.

I Don't want to be a liar. Good to go so we can see right here. we've got an axle seal. These uh Dana 30s are not sealed in the front.

They're sealed uh inside at the differential. Let's just pop this guy. there's one seal. Look at all the dirt.

Look at all that dirt that's been coming into this. this axle through that, uh, through the tube. Wow. yeah, it's gonna take some time to get that out of there.

Look at this. it is thick. Oh look at that form fit dirt, vehicle specific applications. Wow.

All right Yeah I need to clean all that out. That's fun. So what I'm going to do is just push this through with the pry bar all the way to the other side. There it is.

Let's get some of this dirt out of here. Foreign actually a lot of bit. there's a bunch more that was done off. Cam and I Want to go ahead and press these new seals into position.

Now the way this is gonna work here, think they're gonna go in that direction. Like so seal gravity right about there. Now there's a special tool designed to press these in. Basically it's a threaded rod with a stopper on it and then it's got a surface here that meets the seal and will drive it in as I move the nut on the rod, see how that works, make it longer.

It pushes this guy out, just presses against one side of the differential and that pushes the seal into the axle tube. Now curiously enough, I did not notice a seal on this other side and I don't understand why it's not there. So what I'm going to do is shorten this as much as possible, slip the seal in, extend the tool and we'll run these threads down Right here. Almost there we go.

A few good turns out of this nut and that's going to drive the seal into the axle tube. Foreign, begin driving steel now. I'm gonna go. Yep, it's going nice.

You see it going in. that orange is not silicone. That's the steel. Between the differential housing and the axle tubes.
those are not replaceable. They are installed during. Manufacturing I Mean they probably are replaceable, but not to a level of uh within my skill set. I Think that's uh, you know the way.

I'm not really certain how far I go do I do this till it bottoms out? Yeah, I'd say that's good. Two Now let's see you know perhaps there is supposed to be one there and the last folks that were here did not forgot to do it. It's a possibility we're gonna find out real quick because if this seal presses in then it's gonna go. And if it does not press in well then then we know.

but I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be there Jeep People Do you know the answer? Someone out there knows. Let me know in the comment section down below because I may be making a mistake right now that I'm unaware of. that would be unfortunate. Like I said, if it goes in, it's going and it is reluctant to press in.

Yeah, maybe it doesn't go there. So how do we seal this axle? I Don't understand. Yeah, that's not going in. Not a chance.

Loosen that up. Only one axle seal? huh? That's weird. Doesn't make any sense. Okay, wait, hang on.

I think I figured it out. I Know where the seal is. That seal is way way way down here. it's inside the axle.

I Think that's it right there. Not the little star spline looking guy, but the thing around the edge of it. I Think that is the seal for this axle tube and uh, that's not serviceable I Don't know how to get into that unless I take off this controller or this, uh, this four-wheel drive. Locker right here.

Whatever, this device does. I think I can only access that seal through here. Um, that's uh. that's not going to happen.

I'm not taking that apart so that seal right there gets to stay. Plus it wasn't leaking so that one gets to stay right where it is. This one was the leaker, so we changed the leaker. That explains why there was not a seal right here.

Uh, Jeep People, if you let me know about that in the comments I appreciate it, but we have figured it out now I know. Okay, moving on to the back side of the differential. Let's go ahead and pull this yoke out. The pinion is also going to come out with it and then we can pop this pinion seal out and then drive in the new one.

Here comes the pinion. I'm just gonna push that on through and I've got it from the front side right here. Here's our opinion. You know I don't get that opinion to seem to have had a a new shim on it as if it had been replaced.

But the seal back here is all this dirt. So why didn't they put a seal in it? I Guess they thought it was good, which it kind of was. It's not leaking. Destroy bar.

Got it? Okey-dokes We've got the new pinion over here. On the Press There's our bearing. There's the shim and Naomi shim that's supposed to be used in this, uh, specific application. There are many others in the box and those are for shipping other components, but this is just for the uh, the inner pinion seal.
pinion bearing. This thing gonna go. Yep, we're moving. Slide that guy right on.

When it bottoms out, then we're good. Oh Hang on we're slowing down here. let's see what happens. I think that's that should be good.

Okay, false alarm. continuing on. Nothing to see here. Oh, we were getting stuck on these metal plates down here.

That's what it is. Chef wasn't going through the holes there. Spread that out some now it'll fit nice and centered. foreign There She Goes Going in the rest of the way King Almost there we go.

Okay, inner bearing is seated. Let's inspect the bearing. make sure we didn't break it. looks good.

Okay, moving on. Okie Dokes back over here at the axle. I've had this pinion in and out about three or four times now. Each time I remove it, you've got to pull the Yoke with the puller because this yolk sits a little tighter on that pinion than it did the original.

and the reason I had to do that is we've got to get it shimmed properly there. There is no Crush Washer on this. You've got to shim the two bearings and space them evenly. That way they have just the right amount of clearance in their bearing races, which I also change that as well.

Um, a lot of that was boring and meticulous and it's taking me about an hour and a half to get this set up the way it is. So I didn't record all that because it would have made for a horrendous edit and probably a boring video. So we just moved forward through time zone to the point where this opinion's going back together so we're almost all the way set up. I'm just going to run this yoke back down one more time.

The clearance. It's at the bottom. Like I mentioned, the shims that we put in there is just to space this back bearing. That way you don't tighten this thing down and the bearings squeeze in on the races and that it doesn't allow the pinion gear to turn.

So at this point, that part's good to go. Now we need to set up the bearings on the differential itself and then get that thing installed. But first, I Need to clean the rest of this case out. Stinky, shiny, all the old fluid and the dirt.

Let's get rid of that. and then I can contaminate it again. When I go ahead and polish off the silicone, then I can clean it out again. Maximum cleanliness.

And as for the silicone, I'll just peel this off with a zizz wheel pad, an angle grinder. You're getting loud noises now. Beginning Loud noises now foreign. Recently was just in here.

maybe not recently the time, but recently by mileage. All right. good to go. Goodbye contaminants, we don't need you.

All right? All right guys. new differentials coming in. A few videos ago we went ahead and installed the ring gear onto this. Locker I call it a locker.
it's actually a limited slip, but we've got the gear on it already. I'm gonna get this fit into place and then I've got to shim this thing side to side. See all that play right there? That's no good. So we have to install some shims with these bearing cups and that's going to set our mating relationship between the ring gear and the pinion gear.

and it's also going to Center carrier. Oh yeah, thank you Foreign. I've got it shimmed and it's about as pre-loaded as I think I can get it all. That's of course, based off the existing pinion depth.

So what I'm gonna do now is we're gonna paint this and then if the paint shows up really good, I'm gonna hit it with a micrometer real quick. We're gonna check all the backlash and everything if it all specs out Okay, we're gonna go ahead and proceed and put the X's in. Okay, just like we did on the the rear axle, we're going to smear a bunch of gear paint onto these teeth. We're gonna spin them around and check the paint pattern and that's going to give us a visual indicator with regards to the relationship between the pinion gear and the ring gear.

I'm just going to smear that in real nice like and generous. We're gonna get the coasting side and uh, the driven side or the acceleration side. As this passes over the pinion, it's going to rub away some of this paint and that's going to show us where the pinion is contacting the reindeer. That should be good now.

I am going to keep my hand on this is to create a bit of friction and I'm rotating the pinion. Let's see what we get. Seems pretty decent. We've got contact here in the center of the gear, right there in the center, in the center.

It's not off to the edge and it's not bottomed out. I Believe the Excel side is pretty good. It's a little farther down than I'd like, but I'm afraid if I space this out any further, it's going to put the contact uh, surface right here on this gear. Edge And that's not what we want to do.

So let's go ahead and check the reverse side and just make the D make sure the D cell side is in good shape and then we can proceed. so again, same thing: I'm going to rotate the pinion and I'm going to hold the the carrier and as the gears pass, it's going to rub the paint. Okay, revisiting again. The coast side and the D cell side are showing a similar wear pattern.

I'm cool with that. it's going to stay. I Just need to check backlash with a micrometer. We should be good to go.

but I Do believe backlash is fantastic. Very very minimal. I Can barely feel it. Now we do want a certain amount of backlash.

We don't want these things to be tight and touching at all times because that'll just make a bunch of noise and it will wear and we don't want to do that. I'm also not going to contaminate my fresh new fluid with some paint, so we're going to wash that out of there. Goodbye Gear paint I Believe it's fairly inert, but it doesn't need to be there. shiny.
Spin this thing around. Check the other side. Oh, we missed some paint. Goodbye.

All right. This thing is ready to rock all right. We skip the head a little bit. A little bit of her back on it was uneventful I Smeared some silicone on it, cleaned it up, bolted it back on that's ready to go.

I'm prepped to pump some, uh, some oil into it, but I'm gonna wait until this sealance is all the way cured. so I'll probably just do that tomorrow. Run out of daylight and I'm fixing to leave. But my goal was to get this thing movable today.

So I'm gonna go ahead and go into super high speed fast forward motion and uh, we're gonna get both these wheel bearings and then the brakes set back up. Okie Doke! So we're gonna get the backing plate set up. I Believe that goes right there. Yep, and our hub bearing is coming in.

Let's get these in position and bolted together. Get in there, please. Bolts coming in. Oh, come on now, don't do that stuff.

As always, I'm going to put all the bolts in first to ensure proper alignment and then I'll tighten them down. Come here. Click. Let's finish these two off.

Foreign. No, that's not what goes there. The washer goes there. What is that? Grow back? Nice.

that's toy. I'll torque that later. Okay, toss the rotor on. That's next.

Let's get our caliper back on. I Need to blow all the dirt out of this and I'm going to move you guys out of the way for now. And I'm gonna clean this thing out. Don't go anywhere.

Okay, I've blown out all the dirt and garbage and whatnot from inside of this caliper. Now we can actually see it. shoe. Let's go ahead and get this guy back on.

Then we'll swing back over to the passenger side and get all that stuff reassembled as well. Come on. Caliper Get in there. there it goes.

sort of. Dukes Moving along, still moving along, packing plate and uh, wheel bearing. I Did listen to these bearings while they were out just to check them for grinding noises. They uh, they sound pretty good.

so I'm not going to bother worrying about replacing them. You got to stop somewhere, right? I mean I replaced everything on this that was used it would. Well, this thing would be here for a year and we're trying to avoid that. so we're just gonna stop fixing everything and just change what we need to change for now.

Come on. Bolt. Get in there. all right.

Bolt Number two. Coming in, here's my hammer socket. hammer. Everything is a hammer.

Foreign triple clicks, all right. brake rotor. We can hang that real quick while we're here. Let's go ahead and get our axle nut in.

so I don't forget those are very easy to forget or I forget them very easily or both. Everyone doesn't want a thread. Now you do more leverage all right. I'll torque that later.
Let's get our caliper hung the way I did this on the other side was turning the wheel all the way over. Try it, let's try That same uh, same concept here on this side. Go on. get on there please.

what are you doing? Oh pad came out sideways. That might have something to do with it. All right. let's try that again.

Just wiggle it down in there. I could pull the pads out and uh, thank you. compress that piston. But some cost fallacy and whatnot.

Two bolts. You definitely don't want to strip these because the threaded surface is actually the steering knuckle on this. and if you strip the holes out, you have to fix the steering knuckle. and uh, that would not be fun because you probably got to replace it as I can't get the threads to line up there.

Got it? Click? All right. Good to go. Brakes are on. let's get the steering linkage back on.

And immediately after talking about not replacing everything I Come in here with a set of brand new tie rods because the other ones were worn out too. So we're changing these guys as well. Uh, how'd that go? I came up from the bottom, didn't it? I think it did. Yep, let's get that guy in.

Ah, Castle nut gravity. Hang on. Come here. Please.

go on there. There we go. Okay, over to the other side. we'll hook up this knuckle here and then we'll do the uh, the drag link from the pitman arm over to the end of the tie rod.

Right Here that one goes. Remember, it was a little tricky coming out. How's it going to go? Going in? There we go. Nice.

I Think we're coming up on smooth sailing territory here guys. What do you think we're getting there? I'm lining up the hole for the cotter pin with the grooves in the castle nut. Got it caught? A pin coming in? This is a much longer than it needs to be. So I'm going to trim it off so it's nice and pretty pink there.

That's one. All right. Well, while we're here, let's look left and go ahead and get the Uh the drag link installed. This end is going to go on the pitman arm which is attaching to the steering gear and then we're going to go back to the passenger side and connect it to the drag link here.

Tie Rod: Yeah. Words always fumbling those words. oh a little bit more, a little bit more, a little bit foreign and that's good. I Can fit the cotter pin in.

let's push that back there. we go see a new PIN coming in. Maybe too big, that pin's not gonna fit. smaller pin coming in there we go.

super safe. Thank you. Okay, back to the passenger side with us. Premiere Tie Rod: See how did this pass through? It goes.

It goes in from the front. Yeah, yeah, that's correct. I'm looking over at the at the one on the ground. Yeah, get in there nice man.

I'm excited now guys. We're in the home stretch on this thing which is cool now. just because I have all the parts on doesn't mean it's finished though. I've got some some tinkering to do.
There's still some vacuum lines in the engine that I have to reconnect. Um, what else is there? There's a couple things this isn't right. What are we look at that? there's no space here. Do I have this backwards? No.

I couldn't. No. hang on. Okay, that's straight.

that's a straight wheel. I Think that's hang on that's loose I left that loose. Wait, wait wait, that's better. I thought that I made a drastic error in judgment and I did I didn't tighten down this high rod.

It was an error. Yeah. okay. medic.

so I'm gonna go in. Yeah, too big. There we go. That's nice trim.

the PIN Excellent. All right steering gears are, steering linkage is all installed I Just need to get that dampener on there and we're good to go here. Okay, steering dampener coming in. this one's shiny.

It was part of the Rancho shock set. so we're adding an upgrade to the steering as well. I may have mentioned that before, maybe not, but either way we're putting in a Rancho steering dampener. It's misaligned right there.

That's where I want it all right. Let's go down a little bit low. We'll connect that to the tie rod and then steering is uh, is good to go. Okay, let's move on in a little bit here.

We've got to install this little stud adapter thing so I can connect uh, this dampener to this tie rod. I Believe that's the shock absorber side, so this tapered side is going to come through. Yep, and that's also going to get itself a castle nut. actually.

hang on a second. I I think I have a way to make this easier. Yeah, let's do this. Let's put the shaft on the dampener first.

Please thread, Get on there. Oh I can't blame powder coat on that one. Okay, now. I'll fit the dampener into the tie rod there.

Get on there. where's the hole? All right? Okay, one more, get this guy tightened down and then oh, I do need to fit the little, uh, little wobbly thing here. put the dangly bit around its little bracket and then zip tie that on. thinking that the sealant on the uh diff cover should be nice and dry by now and I can go ahead and pump the fluid in.

So yeah, I'm gonna I'm about to put the wheels on this thing. we're almost ready to roll. I do have the front drive shaft out of it still and I'm not going to put that in just yet, just in case it's making any goofy noises or sounds. I don't want to have to worry about having that thing connected at the same time.

I'll do that later. Okay, that guy's on. Let's zip tie it on over here and that'll finish off the steering dampener. All right.

Zip tie coming in all right. Fill it on up. Click all right guys. One quick walk through, we've got tie rods on drag links on steering dampers on covers on gears are in, axles are in new seal there, no needle suit new seal there because I'm not pulling that apart but that's okay, that one wasn't leaking.
Clean all the dirt off. We've got exhaust replaced. We've got the Dynamax exhaust muffler down here. We've got greased U-joints We've got new shocks on it new Seals All Around new rear wheel bearings clean and adjust the drums I painted the fuel tank, painted the diff cover, fixed the engine, put a clutch in it I forgot about the clutch and I did fluid in the transfer case and the transmission.

So I think I think I've done all that I can do to this Jeep I'm excited to drive it again and see how the uh the re ratio does on these axles. I'd like to learn uh I like I just want to see how it feels and it's uh finished in repaired condition. Let's get the wheels on and uh and then we'll go ahead. and fast forward to tomorrow morning when we take this thing out in the daylight and go for a test drive.

All right guys, it's the next day. Sun's bright and shiny Jeep Still sitting here waiting on our test drive. So let's fire this thing up and uh, take it for its first ride. That doesn't mean it's done, we're just making sure everything sounds good and is working good.

Start there we go. Nice. Okay, we got all fresh air. we got a voltage, we got gasoline.

we got 156 000 13 miles on the Jeep odometer. We got a safety belt. click it or ticket. Let's hit the road real quick.

Take it for a quick spin around the block, make sure everything's all good. I Want to see how it feels with this, uh, new ratio here? we'll go forward. Where's reverse? Yeah, come on. Reverse There it is.

Found it. A Little sloppy. Yeah, we're gonna go out. make sure it, uh, it feels good I'm curious to see how this, uh, numerically higher gear ratio feels.

We've stepped it up from the factory. 307 ratio. We're not going to get any four-wheel drive action. There's not much mud and dirt around here.

maybe later. I have mud and dirt behind my house, but that means I have to bring the Jeep to my house I Don't know if I'm gonna do all that I might I Kind of want to test it out. We really should test out the differential, but we'll see. Hmm, we're doing some destruction around here.

The way is shut. looks like we're getting a new sidewalk I can see send it second gear. So far so good. It feels really nice that ratio is not too crazy.

It goes well with the larger diameter tires. The the factory size in this was like a 27 inch tire and these are 32 inch. I could smell all the Heat and things or I could smell all the uh like oils and fingerprints and dirt or whatever cooking off that new exhaust and the glue from the stickers and the tape and the labels, etc. etc.

Yeah, this feels really nice. Very good. all right guys. I'm gonna go ahead and close this one out I'm headed back to the shop we're gonna Park Project Jeep for a little while.

I've got a couple of things I Want to knock out before the weekend? Oh hello moped man, it would look like a GTA character. Hey guys I'm rambling. uh as always like to thank you guys for watching this video. I Hope you enjoyed this video.
Hope you've enjoyed Project Jeep Thus far it is nearing completion, but um, we're not there yet. Sure there may be one episode or two coming up. Additionally, on this particular Jeep yeah we ride. So until then again, thank you guys for watching.

and most importantly, do not forget. Oh dang, he's jumping coolant that was nasty. Don't forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later! End of project Jeep.

97 thoughts on “Project jeep is alive! jeep wrangler yj 4.0”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars richard renfroe says:

    Pull the pin count to three and toss it

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Larsa says:

    A quick question, is there a special reason you diddnt remove the shipping plastic protector from the ball joints on the Drive link?
    I`m usually trowing theese away. 🤔

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Russell Starr says:

    Did you do speedometer correction for the ratio change?

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Art of Ogre says:

    Did the front drive shaft get installed?

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars VB says:

    You won't listen with the split pins will you?

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars claretlover1 says:

    Can't wait till you fit the tuning parts!

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Garth Junor says:

    Steering dampener would have water everywhere! Steering damper would be preferable, perhaps. Let's see if you can't fix that! And aren't those pedants annoying! Probably still have chalk in their bones. Pleading guilty, sir.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars JT H says:

    Where do you get those floppy sockets with the extensions built on them???

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jeff Tarwood says:

    I strongly suspect you have doubled this old Jeep’s value with all this work.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars window creek says:

    How much was the bill?

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars window creek says:

    Make sure to wear the black nitrate safety gloves. Keep all that toxic juice of your skin. Cheers.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars LORD, IT'S PROBING TIME 666 says:

    You've gotta reposition those wipers before you're finished. They would drive my OCD side crazy fast sticking up about 30 degrees like that in their parked position.
    I could be wrong but I thought it sounded to be running just a bit unevenly, that may be just me not being familiar with how they normally do run though too.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Loki Games says:

    , project jeep is in good hands, great work as always good sir✌️✌️

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars john rodriguez says:

    Get a hold of TJ passenger side front axle and get ride of the CAD, then you can put the seal in at the pumpkin and make a blank plate for the CAD

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SamayelIam says:

    cheese is Etch Cries … This bit you did about gears painting … saved me hundreds of dollars!

    Getting that project on the road and out your garage because now you need that effin lift because you are busy … you are going up a learning curve. Love the content.

    Sent you $5 canadian dollars cuz I love you like a brothe3r, dont ever change !

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SamayelIam says:

    cheese is Etch Cries … consider "shorts" of the punchline to one of your many "solved it" videos from your archive. Spend $ to promote only to those in a 1 hr drive radius from your garage. Get there, WIFE UNIT.

    This bit you did about gears, getting that project on the road and out your garage because now you need that effin lift … you are going up a learning curve. Love the content. Sent you $5 canadian dollars cuz I love you like a brothe3r, dont ever change !

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lew Archer says:

    I'm wondering if he has EVER worked on a Wrangler? Maybe not. I've done all this same work in a driveway in the summer in So. Texas. I'm not a professional mechanic, just average Joe. BTW, this is not hate mail, just wondering about his experience with Jeeps.

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gary Smith says:

    Does the speedo need to be re-calibrated because of the changed gearing, or is that a detail the owner doesn't care about?

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gen X Proud says:

    Is this a private car or clients jeep ? I missed a few videos

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ross Carter says:

    Florida sure looks good in January

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RedNeckGaming says:

    be sure to save those kotter pins, they're reusable!

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Reel Time Fishin' says:

    You forgot to remove the protective cap off the drag link joint.

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gid Hig says:

    Ray, you are so honest about what you do. Make a mistake, you own up to it. Like, on video. Admirable.

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Donald Halls says:

    A man would be amazed with what they can do with a 9 gage fencing wier 😅🤣 all the best to yous and your loved ones

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Donald Halls says:

    You definitely need quality tools when your lively hood depends on it, hope the New Year is going well, all the best to yous and your loved ones

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars greg a says:

    The orange silicone on the cover is factory. FYI

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars The Raves says:

    Why no SnapOn FAR72?

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gene Ressler says:

    I know Ray doesn't talk about prices, but I wonder what neighborhood this job is in. Must be into 5 figures by now, no?

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Silvio Russo says:

    Catter pins in the axel

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John's Adventures says:

    Rambling Wrangler Ray

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Silvio Russo says:

    U are pressing against the thearon beaering tool

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Miller says:

    Are those welcome back kotter pins? Lol

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Whirled Peaz says:

    You should be able to take the HF tool back for replacement. 2 is 1, and 1 is none.
    Those anti rattle shims, I know as a spring washers.

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stevo says:

    and another very nicely put together upload..thank you Ray,👌👌

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Franklin Davis says:

    You are brilliant! Continue doing you bro!

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Malcolm wallace says:

    Hello Ray, I'm a Truck Driver in Germany, not a mechanic and know next to nothing about mechanics, so i Love your videos, it shows me what a EXPERT Mechanic has to do. Keep your Brilliant work up, Thank you, Malcolm

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Frank L. says:

    I did not see a clamp on the right side tie rod end. Did you take it apart again to install it?

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mark Miller says:

    Ray love the stuff you do. I know you have Wife unit in the office but I'm missing the phone ringing…doodley doodley doo's. Regards Mark in the UK

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Glenn Trodd says:

    Rowdy Yates would be proud of you….

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Brian Hepp says:

    Where was the front sway bar? I seen the loops on the frame didn’t I?

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars YTAlnyc says:

    Ray, review the video. HF ball joint tool would have worked if you had the pivot set up properly. You had it set up for a longer joint, so you ran out of threads when screwing it down. That is why it got bent and failed. If you look at your other tool that did work, it was set up in the proper joint. So if you had moved the adjustable joint down on the HF tool, it too would have worked.

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars gonzalo gomez says:

    Same wheel hubs ?? 😢

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars arkiefyler says:

    Does the Rate Book include time for coat-hanger bending?! 🤔😱
    To seal or not to seal, that is the question.Yes/No? Whenever I have a 50/50 decision, 90% of the time I'm rong! 😵‍💫

  44. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Goodwater Hikes says:

    👍👍😁

  45. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jan Alter says:

    Very impressive Ray. Congratulations. Thanks for the video as well.

  46. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RockinRobbins13 says:

    Well, sir, we're scanning your last three videos on our quest to eradicate YouTube Comment Section Parasite Spammer/scammers. and here goes:

    — Scanning —

    Scanning 1/3: Data Junkie DURAMAX! Better than a scan Tool! iDash @bankspower 2007 Silverado LBZ 6.6 Diesel

    Scanning 2/3: All about Tone

    Scanning 3/3: Project Jeep is ALIVE! Jeep Wrangler YJ 4.0

    Total: [1104/1107] (100%) | Comments Scanned: 912 | Replies Scanned: 192 | Matches Found So Far: 0

    No matched comments or users found!

    Well THAT's a first. Love it! You're clean. Now go and sin no more. lol

  47. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ron Hansen says:

    This is a great series. I noticed one thing that you must have done off camera. The front driveshaft was not installed. Am I wrong or was that intentional?

  48. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert Arsenault says:

    To get that debris out of the axle tube just clean it like a shotgun barrel.

  49. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Pjc810 says:

    Those are my favorite dikes 👍

  50. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Benjamin Welcome says:

    Pass side seals after cad

  51. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rob Chiste says:

    Question, were you supposed to leave the cover on the driver-side tie rod bushing? looks like passenger side was different. Also the rod attached to the pitman arm.

  52. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Keith Malmberg says:

    Had a 92 YJ with the 4 squirrels if furry for almost 20 years. Had it on 32s with 3" ProComp lift, 2.5" engine and body lift and a built flat pan.
    Loved it till it died a miserable death when a Camero pulled out in front of me while I was traveling 65mph….
    Rebuilt everything you are doing, hated that half shaft vacuum bit.
    A good slip-yoke eliminator will make them rear u-joints last a lot longer.
    And I fixed my glove box the same way that one was fixed… LOL, it's a jeep yj thing…🤣🤣

  53. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Snap-On Auto Tech says:

    What fuel tank that have? 16(.5) or 20? We have one in the shop, the big 4.2L YJ and it had the 20 gal in it. My Googlefu found the 4.2 didn't come with 20 gal tank. Only 2.4 and 4.0 did. We had a hard time removing the tank Jerry rigged mounted already had holes / damage in tank. The prybar added more.. As it wouldn't drop as a unit tank/plate per service guide. Couldnt find replacement based from VIN. Its a 88 Jeep YJ 4.0L L-6.

  54. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars WLWplus says:

    Hi, nice video. I thought the plastic caps at the ball joints are used for protection only during transport and have to be removed before installation ?!?!? (i.e. the cap that fell off (automatically ,-)) mounting the tie rod.)