Short Follow Up on the Off Duty channel… Duramax Inverter Dual Alternator
https://youtu.be/De5B5jZ3RA0
Hurricane Idalia Power Supply
Bent Frame Bolts! Easy Job Escalated! Ford Transit 3.7 https://youtu.be/xOmssBjMwFU
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
https://youtu.be/De5B5jZ3RA0
Hurricane Idalia Power Supply
Bent Frame Bolts! Easy Job Escalated! Ford Transit 3.7 https://youtu.be/xOmssBjMwFU
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”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Hello everybody, good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! I know I'm super glad to be here. It is Uh Friday nearing the end of day and traditionally uh with time permitting on my end of day Fridays I Like to do a little bit of something for me and that usually entails on a completing project apocalypse on my Duramax here. Uh, In the last episode on this truck, we ended up installing power inverters in a battery Bank along with some electrical stuff inside of this toolbox. This is an ongoing project.
It's been happening for several weeks. It's going to consist of two deep cycle batteries. we've got some Junction blocks that are going in here. there's some breakers and some fuses, and one sine wave inverter uh, one heavy duty non-sun wave inverter.
and then I've got another space or more space in here I might stack in one more larger pure sine wave inverter. That being said, I do not have enough amperage on my 12 volt DC side to uh to feed that constant load. Should I ever have to hook up a bunch of equipment to that to run it? Uh, this is a part of my hurricane preparedness kit. It allows me to have quite a bit of 120 volt power at a mobile location.
Now, what I'm fixing to do here is, rather than replace that with some ginormous, aftermarket 400 amp alternator, I have located a secondary Factory alternator which I'm going to mount in this location right here. On this particular engine. these Lbz's when they came in a medium duty platform, they had a provision that would allow a dual alternator system and that's what I'm going to attempt to install today I have a a replacement or another alternator. It is a a factory unit factory size.
it's an HD Delco I Believe this is another 145 amp alternator and I think this one over here is only 100 amp I'm not really certain I don't remember when I put it in, but either way I'm adding that 100 Uh 145 amp over here that way I have two alternators that I can select to use if need be. So overall, this system will have one two batteries up front, two batteries in the back. The rear system will be able to connect with the front system and it'll also have the dual power generating capacity. So what we need to do in order to install that is: I Had to acquire the factory medium duty truck bracket I've got to I Had to acquire the the factory bolts that go through.
There is another pigtail that connects to the alternator that allows that one to come on. I'm not sure if I want to integrate that one into the truck's factory wiring or if I want to just put it on a switch and then run that alternator manually on the switch nut. I don't know what I want to do with that yet. However, I do want to go ahead and get these parts installed now.
This is actually really risky for me right now because I'm going to have to change out this serpentine belt with a longer belt. We can see right here that if I put a bolt through this, that bolt is going to rub on the belt and it'll rub a hole through it. So I can't just Mount that alternator here and then hope for the best. I've got to be able to. uh, get this thing set up with the extra pulley that gets bolted on and with the longer belt. So we're going to start. I'm going to go ahead and pull the fan shroud off. We're going to get this belt off of here.
I'm going to get all the pieces out and get them all kind of set up and mocked up and we're going to see if if it's going to fit preliminarily and then if it does, we're going to go ahead and get those components bolted on. So stay. is going to be a very interesting custom modification. Video opening Z Hood There was a brake Rudder Okay, so I want to head off some naysayer comments real quick? Uh, one of the things that we're going to find in common here is: everyone's going to go.
Why don't you just get yourself a generator? Foreign. ER I Do have a 8 000 watt gasoline power generator at my house. Uh. Having said that, uh, it's not really reasonable to store a bunch of gasoline everywhere.
There's our pigtail. It's not really reasonable to store a bunch of gasoline for when you need a generator plus gas generators are not always 100 reliable. Therefore, I would like to be able to utilize my diesel fuel supply should the need arise. as you saw from those inverters in the back there.
I've got was six, seven, eight and then if I add the next inverter in there, this would be 9 10. That'll be 12 000 watts of potential power now inside of the truck right here. I've got a 32 gallon tank plus a 90. I think that's a 90 gallon tank.
Yeah, that's a 90 gallon auxiliary tank. So that puts me at over 120 gallons of diesel. So if I were to run this engine at a high idle, that a thousand or Eleven Hundred RPMs I'm gonna burn about two to three, maybe four gallons per hour. So that gives me almost an entire week of backup power just based on the fuel that I have on board the truck.
I would not get an entire week of power if I ran a regular Gen set because it just burns through the gasoline. It'll burn five gallons in an eight hour period. And I Can't sustain that 24 hours at a time. So the idea is what I can do is I can run my gasoline generator during the daytime and then at night when I don't need 50 amps of power like to run my well.
For example, I can just switch over things that are critical like fans and lights and maybe a couple refrigerators and then run that stuff off of the power supply in the truck. So I use my gasoline during the day and then use the diesel during the night. The other advantage to that scenario is does that go right there? The other advantage to that scenario is that um, the truck is much quieter than a generator. so I don't have to run my generator all night long to have power all night long I can run the truck which is much quieter.
Plus I don't want to advertise to everybody and their mother that I have electricity and they may not, hence my reasoning for uh, well for having the dual power supply. Additionally, it's also good to have a reserve or a backup. Let's say a hurricane comes and I'm going to need my generator and I go to pull the thing out and it started last month, but it does not start this month. Well now what do I gotta do? I got to sit outside in a hurricane and try to fix the generator I'm not interested in doing that so I'm kind of pre-planning this. uh, ahead of time here. All right. So let's go ahead and see if this is going to even be possible to get this thing in today. I was short one bolt and I had to dig this one out of like the bolt box and I do believe that that is going to be sufficient to reach through.
We have to bolt this bracket onto this bracket. Then the alternator will bolt on here and up here. Does that make sense? And this right here. This component.
This is a factory GM component for a medium duty Duramax I Think it came in the LML or the Lmms and the Lbz's by the way, that's uh, that's OE stuff. Believe it or not, this is a 15 bracket and if you look on the internet for a dual alternator kit for a Duramax they sell their own like proprietary bracket systems. for this, they're like 700. Unbelievable! I Got that for 15 bucks plus some bolts.
So sorry aftermarket alternator guys, we lost this one anyway. I'm going to tighten this down a little bit and just make sure it fits okay and then we'll go ahead and pull the fan shroud and uh, get this belt off. We have to install a secondary idler pulley in there which I do have and I have the bolt for that. So let's just see how this is.
Uh, this is gonna work out here. Okay, that thing's on. it's not super tight. I'll be able to move it to fit the Uh fit the alternator in there.
So um, that's good for now. Okay, I'm gonna go ahead and pull off this plastic cover and the top shroud. We're gonna do that in super high speed, lightning fast motion because it's been seen before. plus it's just some boring little plastic.
Clips or whatnot. You know what? I think I think I'm the we all unite cause if we combine the city boys with the boys off in the pines and load up our rifles and form us a line, we're only as weak as the links in the chain. So think for yourself and start using your brain to Pitt Us against Women. So the Shroud is out.
We now have got a little bit more access uh, to the front accessory. Drive Um, I might go ahead and pull this fan shroud out too just to be able to get back there a little better. It's only three bolts. There's one there, uh, one there and then one more on that other side.
So let me let me pull this guy out too. But people like me Will Survive Blue Color baby. I Work to get mine. My people don't stand in the weather line, hunting and fishing.
They grow in the garden. They're stopping your family while feeding you lies. Check that out. All right, that's the bottom one. So that's two of these big shroud bolts removed. Let's uh, speed it back up and go over and grab that other one out of there. and then we'll have all the accessory stuff off the front of this engine. Okay, so that third knot that I just mentioned that was really far away and hard to get.
So I uh I went ahead and did that part without. you guys, we can see here now that this shroud is actually being captured by the actual fan. so I need to break this fan loose uh, from what would normally be the water pump. but yeah, that's not the case on these.
Duramaxes I'm not sure what's there I think it's just like a housing or a bracket that holds that fan clutch. Uh. regardless, I need to get that clutch off of that pulley and I'll do that with a uh a Pneumatic hammer on the impact driver. So what I need to do on hook this thing up.
we're gonna set up our chisel right on the flat that is on that uh, that fan clutch there and give us some impact Is the fan turning? Get you in a little closer, you can see what I'm speaking about here. Get right down in there now. watch the nut turn. So I should at that point, just be able to rotate the fan and then spin the nut off of its pulley right there.
see how that's going? see it spinning farther and farther away. So once this thing is loose, I need to not hit the radiator but I can take the fan and the Shroud out in one uh, one swift motion better. I'm like climbing up onto the truck here to get, uh, be able to reach spin this guy out I'm gonna go very slowly. It's like I said I don't want to knock it off and have it.
uh, have it hit my radiator. Spin it. Spin it. Spin it.
Come on. A couple more threads I mean I Guess it could hit the radiator. it's already been mangled mangled up by the last person that had the tensioner. uh, well, the last person before me that had the tensioner off I saw gouges of it in the last video.
Anyway, fan shroud assembly is coming out and by the way, since this, uh, fan clutch right here has 230 000 miles on it I am going to replace it with a another unit I mean it's still good. It's got plenty of friction left in there and I don't think I've had any problems out of it I Can hear my fan running, but at 230k I don't care I'm changing everything one of these days. I'll get around to doing the injectors one day. I should have changed them 130 000 miles ago.
Alrighty, let's get. uh, back up. Let's get up in here and get our hello. Troy Let's get our serpentine belt loosened and disconnected.
There's our new tensioner we put in last week. maybe it was two weeks ago? Let's get this thing loose that way. I Can get the auxiliary pulley installed and we can, uh get the other Nader mounted to see how well everything fits what I need to do. Click that thing in. Yeah, we'll just give it a tug back in this direction here and we'll pull it off of one of the idler pulleys. There we go. You'll just let it swing back in that direction. Take my ratchet back.
Come here. Ratchet there. You know. I Probably didn't have to pull that belt off in order to get this pulley set up, but but I did.
Anyway, this pulley is going to bolt on right here. I have the GM part number with this unit right there. I Think it's part number Alpha zero, four, zero, nine and this is the factory bolt to hold this pulley in position I Got that on eBay It was either eBay or Rock Auto The place where you go to find obscure parts. So what we need to do next is, screw this guy on.
Begin threading. Don't don't mess up on me now. So we thread this guy down, tighten this pulley on, and then we'll Mount the Nader and then swap the belt out there. We'll spin it a little faster with a socket.
it gives us a mechanical advantage and then we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Some forward clicks and uh, in there. that's good. Check it, make sure it spins and it does good.
So now let's get this belt out of here and out of the way. some. I'm trying not to fling it everywhere because I'd like to keep what I know is the proper belt routing. I think I think at this point maybe I can go ahead and get that uh, that alternator mounted up and kind of mocked up into position here to see if it fits I hope it's gonna fit.
Um, the reason I say that is these Dr-44s that's actually a large case. When these things came with a secondary alternator, they did not run 145 amp. they ran a smaller taste 105 amp. So I'm trying to actually shove a figure nator in a hole for a smaller Nader so it's I think it'll work.
it should work but um, if it doesn't then well I have to then I bought the wrong unit shoe. move our TCM out of the way for now. then that little bracket back. this isn't supposed to be here on the medium duties that can go right there I think oh that's enough space.
Okie Dokie! So here's our two Nader bolts. They are going to go in right here and the other is going to pass through right here. Those two bolts are going to secure the two mounting holes that are on the alternator case itself. and uh, Full disclosure I realize right here right now I have already gone ahead and ended up with the wrong bolts.
If I run this bolt in all the way, the threads are going to bottom out and I've got like three quarters of an inch too much sticking out so these are actually too long. um I know I don't have any more I will have to order them. Uh, but I've gone too far and we're gonna put this together anyway. Even if I have to use these bolts, I'll probably just shim them out with a nut until I can get a replacement.
So that's the first first little pickup here. I have the wrong Hardware is what it is. whatever I don't care. Incorrect Hardware or not, we shall proceed. So here is our new Delco Nader unit. Let's get this thing kind of in that little mount and I'll put the one bolt in straight away just to take the weight here and that's starting to thread in. okay, and the one on the bottom. Put that through the bracket.
Okay, so now that thing's in the position where it's supposed to rest and it looks like all of the the grooves of the belts are going to line up so this appears to to have the correct offsets and everything. Let's um, let's stick some shins probably just some big nuts on these bolts and shim this all this space up right here. We're gonna go ahead and bolt this thing in I Think this is a it'll work temporarily here. let's pull the bottom one back out.
I Think I'll use just some nuts. use that one and then you should do it like this. Sure, whatever, it'll be okay. It's just temporary.
It'll temporarily be there for years. Watch this. I Hope I have enough nuts on it I think so Okay, that's probably good. Yep, it's locking it in.
it's fine. So as long as that does not interfere with the belt. which I don't think it will because the belt comes from the bottom of this pulley up and over. So that should be okay.
Let's uh. let's get some nuts on our top bolt here. and uh, the container will be secure. All right here we go.
Two more spacer nuts on that bolt I I Hope that's going to be sufficient. Find out: take the bottom one a little looser. A lot of alignment. Is that better? Sure what is problem now? Hmm I will Hammer my bolts in there.
There it goes. I Know it's ugly isn't it? But it's working for now I Just need shorter bolts. That's all. Oh, look, this connector is also the wrong connector.
See that left to get the appropriate connector for this particular alternator. That's the thing with custom stuff it. Uh, now it's custom and that's our bracket ball from earlier. there we go.
Okay, that unit is mounted on and installed. Let us see about this belt right here. This is supposed to be the belt for the factory designer, the factory size belt router. So let's see if this thing's gonna fit.
If everything fits, we're good and we can ride today. Uh, if it doesn't fit, then um I know that's kind of a problem. Also, another observation: I'm going to have to change these pulleys on both of these units. Uh, this one is a larger diameter than that one over there, that one's actually going to be spinning faster.
but again, since this is on a diesel configuration and we're only going to be running this system at like a thousand. RPM I Want some overdrive both of these alternators? so they're actually going to be spinning faster than the factory spec down at those low speeds. But we're gonna have to do that later because I do not have replacement uh pulleys just yet. haven't gotten that far into the parts catalog on this particular project. Rear belt: Alrighty. Well unfortunately my GoPro died in the middle of that and I didn't notice. Uh, so we did actually miss some footage and then about an hour and a half went by because this belt would not fit and I could not get another belt to fit. So I went down to the parts store and found another pulley which is smaller and managed to uh to barely get this thing to fit inside of here.
I did order a replacement longer belt. it's about an inch longer than this one and that will fit. but for the time being we're gonna run with the one that we've got and I can switch it out later on. So having said all that, let's go ahead and get the fan.
Uh, the fan switched out like I said I got a new one and uh, we can get this shroud back together, put the fan back on, and then, uh, we can fire this thing up and make sure that this belt is going to run straight and true and it's going to behave appropriately. and I believe it is. My micrometer tells me that it is in line with the rest of the ribs and this, uh, this should work out to Perfection So so let us unbolt this fan clutch from the fan. The fan gets reused.
The clutch does not get this thing out of here. We're gonna reuse these bolts. Get rid of that. That is our old 230 000 mile viscous clutch and the new one.
Where is it? Oh, it's hiding. It's over here in the Box Here's the new one. another Delco part. that's what I put on it.
They're more expensive but that's what goes there. Plus this stuff's not easy to get to and I didn't want to put Cheapo Parts in hard to reach places like I'll throw a cheekbone part on an easy to reach place because if it's junk and I got to warranty it. No big deal but the hard to reach ones I'd really rather not. okay.
Bolt holes are lined up-ish gotten more Okay, let's get these guys in that one. two number three I Kind of missed the mark too I Was gonna order an upgraded fan to go with this and when I went to go back to order them, the company was sold out and they were discontinued. I waited too long. It made me sad.
No worries. Okay, all right so that's all set up. Let's get this thing in the Shroud back on the front of the engine and I think with the stockings, the engine. All right.
let's get all this stuff situated here. I'm gonna climb up and set the stuff down behind that radiator. Good climbing. sit up here on top the Shroud I need to lower it down and my foot's got a cramp there.
okay uh, real quick. It says top side on it right here so I know which side goes up at the top in the middle and we lower this unit right on down into its hole. Here we go trying to get, uh, get everything lined up here as best I can fans a little are the shrouds a little off? It needs to be rotated by the way. These fan blades are sharp, especially the back side cut you if you slide your hand down them. They get sharpened over time like as this thing ingests dirt and sand and it goes off the trailing edge of the fan blade. It'll wear away the back of the blade. and it sharpens them. So an old fan you can take the thing out and it's got like a razor sharp edge on it.
It's not okay. Yeah, oh, it came off. No, not going so well. All right, new strategy: I'm gonna Bolt the Shroud on so the shroud's in the right position.
we're trying to Fan Again, okay, clean up. reaching down, holding the center of the fan as best I can don't have space, it's not gonna work or I think the threads are starting to. Nope. Came off again and yes, I can get this belt out of here without pulling the fan off.
if I want to change this belt out with a longer one. Threads are started good, good, good. That's what I want. Spin that blade around.
Blade keeps spinning and spinning and spinning. We'll spin her around, hit it with that uh impact driver just to make it tight and then I'll get the three bolts for the Shroud on. Then we can put the the outer shroud back together. Now now this Nader is not wired yet.
It doesn't have a power cable from the back of it and it doesn't have the uh, the Exciter wires to kick the thing on. but I can wire that up later on. Okay, fan is on. I am stuck.
all right coming in with the air chisel one more time. I'm gonna spin that guy around until I've got a good straight on that's not it there that looks pretty straightish. I Think woohoo guys. almost fell down.
There we go. let's give it some impact to tighten it. foreign guys. So I skipped ahead.
we uh, put the Shroud part back on that was pouring and inconsequential. So uh, let's go ahead. hit the key, restarting the engine and make sure that this belt right here is going to run straight and true and the fan didn't fly at all. Things fly good I Like it.
Okay, now let's bust off the meter. We can run some power to the pins on this alternator real quick. and uh, let's find out if this thing's gonna charge. All right guys, it is.
proof of concept. Time Are we ready for this? Let's see if we cannot, Uh, make the system work. Here's how we're gonna do this: I've got the battery in the back exposed. Pretend that's all wired nicely.
I've got the 28 foot jumper cables connected to the battery so we have live wires right here. What we're gonna do is: I'm going to go ahead and ground our ground side right there. That's no good alternator round. This cable right here is attached attached to the stud on the back of the alternator.
Okay, so we're going to connect that one to our positive side going back to our battery. But before we do that, let's take some voltage meter readings on the battery voltage on that auxiliary battery in the back. So right here we've got our negative lead for the meter. I'm going to attach that to this extension lead right here. It's just two alligator clips and we can ground the meter out to the alternator case. In this case, I'll use the bolt. Got our top side right here. Now out back, we've got just about 12 volts on that alternator.
Okay, if we go to the power wire, I'm sorry I have the battery. if we go to the power wire at the alternator alternator. okay, make the connection and now we're hanging out. Battery's open.
See that? So what I need to do at this point is take some power off of this power cable and energize the diode circuits on the alternator and it should come on. And if it doesn't then uh, well, that means I was wrong I was going wrong a lot. Connect our lead if that's the one that was connected. Okay, okie dokie, let's fire this thing up and see if we're gonna go here.
So I've got the Exciter wire connected. Uh, two. battery positive right there. We've got the meter connected to the battery out back and the alternator lead is not doing anything.
So let's connect this Nader lead right here. Look at there. 13, 6, 13, 5. disconnect it drops down to regular voltage, reconnect it Thirteen, five, six, seven.
Awesome! So it appears to be working here. Let's get her connected again. That up. Check Voltage? Yeah.
See. Look, now it's hanging out 12 volts. So we just saw 13 change here and we're getting bad connection. Something's not right.
Now we're down to regular battery voltage. Nothing. Oh there we go. back.
Connection: Bad connection or that. Uh, come on. and I'm too impatient for it. Weigh voltage is climbing.
We're 13-7 now. Super cool. I Wonder if it'll shut down if I disconnect the Exciter wire? Let's see what it does and it does not shut down when I disconnect the inside or wire. So let's go ahead and shut off the vehicle and see if we see a voltage drop at the half the battery Outback powering down voltage fell.
So let's reconnect the Exciter wire here. and then I will restart and we'll see if it comes up on voltage properly in 12.37 Pay attention. I Think there's an issue with this actual alternator here? Yeah, now she doesn't want to. come on, see that and now it doesn't want to.
come on. I think I've got a defective unit here. Well, regardless, we saw it made voltage so in concept so this should be working there. We go.
All right, let's do one more test since we now know that this thing is sending charging voltage. let's see if it sends any amperage back. So we're at 13.76 volts. Okay, 1375 1376.
I've got the big inverter down there wired up to the battery it's connected to this power strip. This power strip is switched on and this heater is connected to that power strip. So if I go ahead and run this theoretically, that alternator should be running this heat gun. Just as long as, uh, battery voltage does not drop. if battery voltage does not drop, or a charging voltage doesn't drop below what normal battery voltage would be, that's proof of concept. So let's fire this thing up. we're on. High Full blast.
Oh, I've heard the engine respond. Okay, so we'll just leave this very safe, right? We'll leave that right there. Let's go check 13.5 volts bolts. So it did draw down s now.
let's make sure our truck inside's not affected by it. It's negative. that's 14, 14, 1, or 14 2.. actually we can check that with the meter.
We should have two different charging system voltages here. Oh, let's put it right here. it's on the truck side. 13.75 13.54 Absolutely perfect.
This thing's working. Oh look, there's current flowing I see some smoke coming out of that connector. So we do have current flow. Let's see if we can create an arc right here.
Yeah, that thing's drawing it down a lot. Now that's still going. Nothing's pulling a lot of power a couple thousand Watts at least 13, 24, 13 22. Let's disconnect our cider wire see what happens.
dropping so it's holding voltage. Okay, if you wonder if I even need those wires on this thing. So one more thing. we need to get a visual representation that there is current flow.
so that's hot. I Can tell you right now there's some current going through that wire that's hot. Look at that, it's charging. See that.
Now let's check voltage at the battery with the load on it. Look at that. 10.8 volts. Yeah, that thing is a lot.
Current draw. Let's reconnect our uh our Nader one more time and back up to voltage. Excellent and turn that off. Watch this whole Spike when I click off the uh that load that we've got.
So right now we're at 13 and a half load shut down. You should start to see voltage flying back up. Okay with the inverter and the uh, that heat gun removed, voltage is coming back up. We're gonna do one more little experiment here just to seriously seal the deal.
Let's go turn the uh, just put our inverter back on powering on. we're on right there. Red light says we're good and load power up. So that pretty much should be all that that alternator's got.
Three 13 points. Watch this. High idle. Cheers to catch up.
Kill the load, Spring idle up a little bit more. Not that much. How about this one? There we go. So 135 shut down all of our loads with high actually, no, let's turn our load back on.
Oh, we're on low. Look at that. Let's turn it off. Oh, this is cool.
It works. And full steam cable for 105. that's nowhere near close enough. It's good to shut all this stuff down.
honey. Idle powering down. There we go. Battery voltage again.
All right guys. I'd say that's proof of concept. It is confirmed that the system is in fact working. I'm going to go ahead and disconnect and shut down all my hubbub turning off the power strip we do not need. Oh, it's still seven amps. Look at that. Yes, Yep. so it's still trying to charge this battery.
see I can disconnect from my ginormous power strip right here. I'll disconnect the heat gun. We don't need this in the truck anymore and time to get those wires removed and tucked away and put up until I can get back in here and run a proper set of high. Uh High gauge or extra bow gauge large gauge cables because this one's not going to be sufficient right here.
I Don't think so. All right guys. Uh GoPro shut down again. It's too hot.
So I'm gonna go ahead and get all this stuff disconnected. I'm going to safely tuck these wires away so this thing can't, uh, charge things and burn up and do all kinds of other nonsense. I Actually made this into hooking this wire up to the battery post for right now. That way we just, uh, that way that elevator can do whatever it wants.
Uh, anyway, all that being said, I'm going to go ahead and close this video out. Right now the sun is low, the Shadows are long, the day is coming to an end, and so is this video. So having said all that as always, I'd like to finish each other one of you guys for watching this video again. I Hope you enjoyed this video.
If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Drop me that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have your cell is a fantastic day. See you guys later in Duramax and then do a little alternator video in the work week in the day in the video into transmission. Thank you.
I would love to install one single alternator of 400 Amps instead of using two Alternators of 100 amps each which produce only little more than 200 amps.
The exciter wire needs to be connected/switched to energize the stator. The alternator is not self excited, thus the exciter connection. Also the exciter wire needs to be disconnected when the engine is shut down or it will draw down the battery when off, so it should be switch controlled. The one I built is on a 3 horse small engine using a regular Delco alternator from a 74 Chevy 85amp. I use it to charge batteries in the field, or a back-up for inverters if the power is out.
Ray how do you not have a fan clutch wrench kit? With all the fancy flush machines and stuff you have. Why no fan clutch wrench set? In my opinion its really tacky to use a chisel.
so basically youre doing end game Mekanism mod in minecraft…but IRL lol
But you just announced to the universe that you have power in an emergency!
Remove or minimize the load on the battery in the truck, run the two alternators independently. It will still need a battery on the field half to energize the field, but it won't overload the battery. One issue comes up AFTER THIS. LOOK AT THE LOCATION OF THE POWER STEERING FLUID RESERVOIR. EVERY CAR LEAKS A LITTLE PSF.
A diesel generator would be be better, and it can burn waste oil, or get a 10 hp diesel engine, bolt a couple 150 amp alternators to it, and a few feet of 2/0 welding cable, Anderson connectors. And there you go! Use the batteries in the truck, charged by a smaller engine!
You like to use 8KW+ at emergency situations, i imagining this setup catching fire @ 3KW or maybe 3.5KW max. You need more than 150amps alternator because 150amps × 13.8volts not gona make such power (150×13,8=2070wats). Maybe combining both alternators is good enough if they manage to make max power and not fight each other because if one of them output little more volts than the other, that alternator is basically blocking the other from producing anything useful. The solution maybe is to wire them in series, but this make the truck becoming 24volts and bye bye truck electronics.
Ray, my Wife Unit has taken an interest in your project…She became interested when she walked behind me and saw you straddling the radiator!!
I'll be doing this same thing on my 02 lb7 truck
Tell me where to find that remix that was in the background
Rainman Ray's lessons in Survival! Reasonable, necessary, smart!
And that was a smart idea to source that bracket instead of going through the dealer and getting the dealer parts the dealer always charges way more for the same parts that you can find cheaper elsewhere and they're just as good in the same quality as the dealer parts for Less!
You're much more efficient idea to do it the way you're doing that takes up less space and provides even more power than you would normally have with longer runtime me that sounds like a no-brainer! Great thinking to do what you doing!
It's cool that you have chosen this method of emergency power generation if this is just an exercise in Youtube content creation, but, as far as practicality is concerned, just buying a Honda EU iS7000 inverter generator hooked up to your house transfer switch would be safer, energy efficient and less worrisome.
That total 245 DC amps output from the dual alternators require upwards of 6000 RPM (pretty much full throttle of your Duramax) just to output 24.5 amps AC at 120VAC.
20 amps AC will just barely start a 12,000 BTU window AC unit let alone also needing to simultaneously start and run your residential refrigerator/freezer. The Honda generator would automatically increase and decrease it's current output via auto throttling while your Duramax would be running constantly at full throttle. That truck would have to be parked pretty far away for you to get any sleep.
Fun, just uhhh don't blow up lol
Why not use solar panels, from Australia.
What song is playing while the fan is coming out?
Ray! Arod needs your Duramax 1.21 gigwatts for his Doc Brown time machine diag Brother. 🤣🤣🤣 kiddin.
GREAT VIDEO. LOTS OF GOOD INFORMATION. THANKS FOR SHARING
My explorer had a stock 220amp alternator. It seems weird that you'd only have a 100amp or anything less than 200amp. Also alternators will only supply as much power as what is requested of it. I'm typing this fairly early in the video but having an alternator on a switch would actually be rather useless. With that info, you'd have been a lot better off getting a higher output alternator, which you can get a decent one for about $200-$300. Then you could've more than likely maintained your factory belt given how much tension you had on it.
Cut the bolts ray what's your aversion to it lol
Great video. When I was a kid, we use to build race cars. Drag racing has always been popular in my neck of the woods. Now that being said, I am waiting for the Government to banned fuel running vehicles, lololololol
What song was that during the shroud removal?
But will it work with my toaster?😂
Guys did this back in the day with CB Radios and running Sub-Woofers.
U gotta lay off the crack man😂
Charge Tesla with it 😂
Hello Ray, the reason you did not see the nator output drop when removing the exciter feed is that most naters, the external feed of 12V is only needed for a moment. Once the field is going, the field will feed itself.
some alternators only require a 'flash' exciter wire where once u apply voltage to it then it will apply its own excitation afterwards to maintain its own voltage. NO IDEA if that's what's going on with your setup, just thought i'd mention it.
I seem to lose power a week at a time at least once a winter these days. Been through all this and still have it around of course, (more options = better). But having an EV with at least a 60 kWh battery around has been a game changer for having 3 ish days of quiet, don't have to gas it up in the middle of the night, cheap, backup power around. After 3 days? Run down into town for a DC quick charge for about an hour and fill it back up!
Should have gone with dual 300 amp alternators and have a hurricane rated sound system as well 🤣
Careful Ray…
"Nothing is more permanent than a temporary solution!"
My other question is have you had electrical issues with your truck your truck looks exactly like mine with the exception of mine is gas and yours is diesel oh and I don't have Duallys mine is a 2004 Chevrolet just out of the blue my battery died and the alternator might need to be changed and I have buzzing underneath the dash that's why I'm asking about electrical issues
What is the cost $4.99 to join your service
Silly Mechanic! Maybe look into a large electron storage containment unit, then use your generator to refill electrons into electron storage containment unit. You can get ones that start out at 3.5 kWh and expand up to 25 kWh. Best of both worlds, quiet battery powered nights and a noisy generator when needed.
Hope you have it up and running for the storm!
Have you considered using a fin comb on the radiator ?
OHHHhhh NOooooo Ray there is a hurricane coming,!!! You can test out your Chevy Duramax generator soon.
Now you just need about 10-20 inch subwoofers for the hurricane off-season.
Stay safe in the hurricane Ray!
Oh my giddy aunt this man is about to break his truck.
If you end up using this for an inverter setup, you should keep the engine speed above 1krpm to prevent glazing the cylinder walls.