Again I’m sorry for some of the audio. The files became corrupt. I did my best to patch it up and cover it with voiceovers. I’ll do better next time! I had to split up pt2 into two different videos, that’s why this one is pt 2.5! The links down below will take tot to part 1 and 2! That’s for watching!
Part 1 can be found here!
https://youtu.be/X5PFU9fTj3Q
Part 2
https://youtu.be/8aRYwNqiJOk
Part 3https://youtu.be/SJTypgTBBEw
Part 1 can be found here!
https://youtu.be/X5PFU9fTj3Q
Part 2
https://youtu.be/8aRYwNqiJOk
Part 3https://youtu.be/SJTypgTBBEw
Àdd a comment…
Golly ! Now I know I never want to do this 😃
Where is part 3
I inherited a 1994 GMC Jimmy SLT (top of the line at the time 4×4 with leather seats, 4 wheel anti lock brakes) in 2020 with only 90,000 miles. The previous owner was a sticker for routine maintenance but did some whacky repairs that I had to undo; eg rear tail lens held on with sheet rock screw? Anyway it doesn't matter how much a car is technically worth if it is in good running condition and you want to keep it that way; maintenance, tires, ball joints are going to cost money. It's turned into a project car for me as it's something I can actually work on.
My next repair is replacing the front shocks (they started leaking after I jacked up the front to do front brake job; front discs with rear drums). The Haynes manual passed down by the previous owner basically says 1) Jack up the car 2) Remove lower shock mounting bolt (note direction bolts point) 3) Collapse shock 4) Remove upper shock mounting bolt 5) Remove shock absorber 6) Installation is reverse of removal and tighten fasteners to torque listed in this chapter.
Old tank…just like old ford 390. the joke was once you swap to an edelbrock aluminum intake manifold…it didn't make a performance improvement by design…it was the fact you got rid of that old
cast iron… "heavy ass" intake manifold! little difference by quicker and saved a little amount of fuel.And you Wonder why your backs all messed up the next day.
That was painful to watch you doing the timing on the distributor!! Just line up the crank and point to #6 spot!! Then you got it done. I do own chevy blazer with 4.3. I've done them
Why didn't you replace the distributor? there was a large crack running down the side of the fastener thread.
Sounds awful on this one too.Had to watch it sound off captions on.
You forgot the dooo do do doo doo
the only thing worse than taking off a part you just put on is nothing
I didn't utilize a torque wrench to tighten a throttle body on my 87 chevy s10 and it cracked it,costing 300 to replace 😳🤣🍺🇺🇸✌
I don't understand why GM dead-ended the lower intake water jacket. Especially the end that has no airflow for extra cooling.
certainly a problem with the audio when you were fitting the lower intake manifold
Hi Ray am from the UK and follow your sit every day and its really entertaining thanks
You had turned the oil pump out of place when you originally got it off by one tooth. All it needed was to have the distributor pulled and turn the oil pump with a large flat screwdriver.
Good video but you never turn the crank with the distributor out. All you had to do was turn the oil pump rod a couple of degrees and it would have dropped right in. Good vids. thanks for sharing
I did that to my son's 97 Z71 truck because the intake leaked a LOT. Its a pretty big job with a heavy lower intake manifold. Had a fast idle when started and found I had forgot an vacuum line and has not leaked for years.
Sorry Ray. I'm checking out on this video due to the audio chopping.
Congratulations Mr. Ray, 200k+ Subscribers!
Let me start by saying I'm not a mechanic. Brakes and tune ups and oil changes, that's about it. What is in the middle of the engine after taking off the lower intake manifold? I seen you spray it with carb/brake clean and then cover it with oil. Does the oil go down to the crankcase? Did you ever clean out the front two coolant tubes on the intake manifold? They looked like they were welded shut. Thanks
This man is a car surgeon.
Sorry, had to wait till almost the end of 2.5 series, to do what I “would have done first !” If obvious neglect caused the above engine issue, first drain the oil to see what comes out! Why spend money up top when down below is “toast” Bin there, have the “T” shirt ! Now, let’s continue. Timing check with monitor,,, 0 degrees on your monitor,, no adjustment,, bin there too !
HI RAY… THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO.. WOW, WHAT A MESS AND WHAT A JOB, YOU MUST BE BURNED OUT AFTER ALL THAT ALSO, THANK YOU FOR THE IN DEPTH JOB AND SHOWING US ALL IT TAKES.. WELL DONE…👍👍
This must have cost an arm and a leg.
I knew there was a reason I don't like GM products. That half gasket, half silicone, on the manifold is super dodgy manufacturing. A built in oil leak.
Back in the day you could turn the oil pump drive shaft with a long screwdriver don’t know if it applies to these newer GM engines. Worked on my GTO’s and 283 and 327 motors. Used to get upset when I’d work on them and the dashpot for the advance was bound/blocked from letting me set timing. Excellent work Ray. I’ve watched and still watching all your videos. Today’s techs/mechanics job are mostly part changers. Haven’t got a clue. I’m in Ocala and if I lived closer you’d be my main man to work on my vehicles.
I sawr when you mused up on the distributer. It was when you first entered the distributer hole. You pushed the gear against the wall rotating the teeth. I thought that won't work and it gave you a fit.
Really makes me appreciate my 6.0L Silverado… Intake or head removal, replace is sooooo much easier than all the bits in the way of this little 4.3… Ray, you have much patience, my friend…
On the front and rear intake gaskets, the places where the side gaskets meet the front and rear gaskets are know failure areas. The front and rear gaskets are know to slip out during assembly. using too much sealer or not dropping the intake manifold straight down during assembly causes this failure. The area where the front and rear gaskets meets the side gaskets, should have a extra amount of silicone sealer added. There are certain brands of these gasket sets which are modified to provide a better seal in the problem areas. This set is not one of them. Before assembly better to remove all obstructions that would impede dropping the manifold straight down during assembly.
2.5 thats a good one –
Good job. I just wondered why, if it has side gaskets on the heads why is there not one for the front and back so you don't have to use silicone? Wonderful design made to mess up eventually, I guess. Can't make them last forever or you guys and many others would be out of a job…lol.
I worked at a mechanic/technician in a textile plant. Nothing had a gasket. Permatex blue on all contact surfaces. Went thru no telling how many hundreds of tubes in my 20 years. We always, though applied and waited 15 minutes before putting the part on the gasket so it had firmed up a little. Found that made the gasket form leaks almost non-existent. Still, you got them when you had a surface that got hot and the only gasket used was silicone. Many of us wished we'd had an actual gasket because, when you smell that stuff for a large part assembly and a lot on a major overhaul you got light headed. We called it, Silicone drunk…lol.
I guess you do not possess a syringe .
I didn't see where you opened up those two plugged water passages on the intake manifold. Won't this problem just come right back if you somehow missed that step?
Fire the sound guy. 🙂
Old school manifolds were made of cast iron and needed two guys to put them on, not fun at all.
That should be leaking never see anyone put silicone on the gasket that will leak why do you talk like your a simulation very annoying
Sorry dude, love your vids, but this audio drove me out. See you next vid
No one else said it, so let me be the bad guy…… Wtf is up with the audio. Constantly clicking and lots of artifacts
I'm glad I'm not the only one who marks plug wires like that.
You didn't show it in the last video or the beggining of this one, but did you clear out the lower intake manifold coolant valleys? I'm sure you did but you didn't explain or show it.
Reeeee… What did you do to clean out the sludge that may be in the block?
Get a dentistry mirror for $3 to check on blind spots in engine bay bud.
That old blazer is so clean take up to the rust belt sell it for 5 times the cost
I always have leftover bolts LOL
Thought part 2 was supposed to show the flush and cleaning? What happened?
Dawn dish soap is your friend in coolant flushes.
Sounds like your breakdancing
double check left side wire 3 it looked like it came out when you put on the coil wire.
oil pump shaft spins when you install. All you haveto do is keep installing thedistriber until it goes around to the right spot.