In this video I show you a testing method that can show you quickly if you have a solenoid failing when it is getting hot. Some solenoids are a pain to get to and might only fail when they are hot. Sometimes we need to bring on the heat and see if we can catch it in the act.
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Wouldn't be a date SMA without a Chevrolet Folks 2012 for 14 rather I guess it would be Malibu It's got the big 2-4 I Just want to share a quick tip with you here. This car would come in with your classic P2645 for the uh, variable valve lifter, the rocker arm solenoid circuit code guide leave the car overnight, you'd bring it in and check it and this thing tests perfect. A lot of mouse damage under the hood so kind of suspicious of some wires. But here's just one little quick tip you can do if you suspect the solenoids feeling.

this works on all types of different solenoids. uh like the BVT solenoids on this or in this case rocker arm solenoid and I'll show you this is just something you can kind of put in Your Arsenal So these solenoids usually test out somewhere is between you know, 15 and 30 Ohms. Get this where you guys can see it? hopefully and just kind of tip her up there. You have to read it sideways but I think you'll be able to see hopefully.

Can you see that? Hopefully you can. So I'm going to go on the center terminal so this is a she's a twin solenoid, three wire Center wires the pin, ground side switch to the outer two. So one of these solenoids is 14 Ohms and the other solenoid. it's about 13 Ohms 12.8 Okay so that's good, that's within spec.

However, my suspicion is is when you drive the car and operate it, this sits down. you know by the intake and you know this eventually gets hot and I believe it goes open circuited or um, you know, higher resistance sets the code cools down. So needless to say we're going to heat it up just a little bit. You don't have to get crazy and then we're going to recheck it again.

We just want to kind of heat up around these coils. just kind of simulate driving down the road. But in this case we don't have to work on a super hot engine. Come around and if it's too hot to hang on to, you went too far.

So about engine temperature? you know, a couple hundred degrees here? Yeah, that's pretty warm. That's pretty cool. Let's just see what our solenoids say. Now can you guys still see still in frame? We'll check this one 13.4 and we'll check this one.

What would? Uh, so would you look at that? 48 156 She's all over the place. Let's see where we're at here: 215 000 212 Of course it's starting to cool down now. 210 So 210. Watch your uh, simple over here where Kilo owns? Okay, so 204.6 Kilo.

Ohms. Of course it's dropping now as it's cooling down and chances are yeah, I mean it's not super warm. You can almost. Yeah, you can hang on to it.

So anyhow, that's that's a great test if you suspect that you have solenoids going open circuited, other electrical components failing. Probably use something different than map gas, you know? use a heat gun if you're going to use you know, a little butane torch or something. Use your noodle, but this may save you some time from driving a car around and trying to get to this connector on the car which can be kind of a pain. And theoretically as this thing cools down I'd Imagine or reading will get better.
Yeah, see now we're down to 180 or I'm sorry 160 and it's and it's dropping fast. So this solenoid is affected by heat and then this one here. the other half of this is not 14. Ohms so that's good.

And like I say as this cooled down, it works. So we're we're cruising down into the 80 ohm range 30. We're just about back to Spec 26 25 so you can see how just a little bit of heat will affect solenoids and that's all I wanted to share with you, not so much unless it's kind of an easy one. I've done these before so I knew what was wrong with the car just based on the code.

I Just wanted to kind of confirm, particularly when you see some mouse damage. so that's it. Maybe this test will help you in your diagnostic process. so thanks for watching foreign.

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