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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

Hello everybody, Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here. This is a 2004 Ford Taurus It's a sedan. four-door 24 valve dual overhead cam V6 I think it's a uh I think they had a 3 l 4 L in these things I Got to check. It might be a 3 l u motor that's a Uin code this particular Ford Tus an oldie but a goodie by the way has approximately oh I don't even know.

Didn't even tell me the mileage yet. Hang out here. Check Brake system. It's got that.

That's not why it's here. Uh, where's my mileage? I don't even know guys. I'm not prepared to do this video today. Check brake system again.

Can I have some mileage please? I don't even know guys. Where is it? Where's the mileage? There we go: 10, 19,7 72 Mi on the odometer technically. 3 Mi on the odometer. Got that from the trip Anyway, it started.

when we hit the key customer states that intermittently the vehicle will not start. There we go. We got it. No crank, no start does not run.

Not sure what's going on with it, but we need to figure out how to get it started again and get her in the shop. try to restart it again. See what it does? Are you going to there? it goes? Okay, so it does start sometimes. I Didn't hear a click when it didn't start.

so I'm not so certain uh that we have an issue with the starter motor. But we do need to get this car uh, into an Uh operating condition. A reliable operating condition and we need to do that as quickly as possible. Uh, this car is the only car that these particular folks happen to own and they very much need it.

Our customers are concerned that in the event of an emergency, uh, late night trip or anything really, uh, they can't get the car to start reliably and that is a concern for them. So uh, we're going to try to diagnose this situation and uh, see if we cannot, uh, figure out what is causing that no cranking condition? Uh, on this particular for Taus, see it just started again, but there was like a delay in it and then then it kind of cranked. So I'm not sure if we have like a relay problem or a fuse problem or a starter problem. Yeah, it's going reliably now.

Okay anyway, let's get out of this thing Poppy Hood Take A Look Down Below in the engine compartment and see if we can't see anything obvious that's staring at us in the face. and if not, then, uh, we'll get a little bit deeper until we can figure out what's going on here. Uh, I'd like to get it into a condition where, uh, it's more reliably uh, not cranking. So I I want it to be reliably not reliable.

That way we can, uh, properly diagnose the uh, the cause of this no crank, uh uh situation on this car. There's no crank, no start, and then get the thing fixed up. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video uping y Hood Look who that guy is. All right.

Back again and we are not cranking. See that it's not doing anything. Uh I Know the ignition key is trying to crank it because the fan blower shuts down when we hit the key and then the chime will stop. also.

Additionally, there we go. Got her again. Okay, so it does crank and it does start very unreliably okay. let's see if it's uh, going to do it again.

Starts: Yep, All right, re shut down. let's hop out. check the engine compartment for obvious defects. We're going to look for battery terminal connections.

Uh, we may check relays and fuses and things of that nature. see what we can come up with here. And yes, this is the 3 l dual overhead cam. V6 This engine has been around forever and was, uh, in production for uh, I think almost a decade.

It's a really good engine. Well, it used to be. it could have been. It still is the ones that are still out there.

Those are good engines. So anyway, battery terminals appear to be fairly clean and tight. I Don't think that is the issue. Let's check for a a starter relay fuse.

No, there's no IDs on that. Okay, I don't think it's a relay I Don't know if that starter runs? No, no it doesn't run off a relay because it's got the uh, the solenoid on the starter motor itself. so there's no relay there. Uh, where is our starter motor? might need to find that? All right? Looking down.

kind of. uh, on top of the transmission here. Um, I'm trying to take a peek for that starter and I don't see it down in there? I'm not seeing where the cables go. Uh, there's the cables coming off the battery.

so let's see if it's down here under this fuse block. Yeah, there's a red cable coming in. Oh, there she is. Yeah, that's our starter motor.

So we've got that red cable coming down from the battery. That's the power supply. Uh to that big solenoid. See that, uh, move that flashlight.

See that little round canister thing behind that hose? that's the solenoid on the starter motor and then behind it where I'm sh the light that is the starter motor itself. You look real close. You see that wire convolute right there attached to the front of that solenoid. That convolu is the excer wire.

uh from the ignition key that closes the contacts in that starter solenoid and then turns on the electric motor which then sends the gear out to contact the flex plate and then turns the engine around and then the engine starting sequence can begin. What I want to do is I'm going to get a test lead on on uh uh, right there on that excer motor wire or uh C mode wire rather and uh, we're going to put a meter on that or a test light and we're going to check to see when we turn the key if that wire is getting power. Um, that's only irrelevant test if we can get this thing into a condition where it's not cranking. so I basically want to see if the key and everything after the key is telling the starter to start the motor.

If it's always telling the starter to start and the thing still does not start, we may just have an issue with the motor or it could be something else. So let's uh, let's go fetch a uh a test lead real quick, hook the thing up and then uh and then uh, we'll get it tested here we go. Wire lead coming in. it's the big long one I made this out of alligator clips and uh, just some uh what is that like a 14 gauge wire? Yeah so it's a homemade extension I do have other not homemade extensions but they're shorter and I'm going to need some space on this one.

So what I need to do? There's a little tab down there on that wire I'm going to try to get this thing attached to that tab I know you guys can't see I can feel it with my flang tips and I'm just going to reach in clip that guy on There We go. We're clipped. Let's uh. visually inspect our work down there and make sure we're not grounding that thing out or something that looks good.

You guys see that down there. We've got the Uh connection uh made to the starter. Now let's test our connection. We'll take uh, our other side here.

We can jump that straight over to battery positive and it should cause this engine to crank. So here we go. Yep, see that. but the ignition key is turned off so we can crank this thing for days and it still is not going to run.

Ground side doesn't matter, but that's definitely the correct wire. Okay, leave that right there. Continuing to construct our testing apparatus: I Brought a uh regular. just a brake light bulb here.

It's a what is that thing? a 3057 bulb. You pretty standard brake light bulb, dual filament and what we're going to do is attach the uh the Blue lead right here to one side of these. Terminals and then I'll attach one of these other leads to the other side and then we'll ground the other side. So what'll happen is when we crank the key, it's going to send power to that power wire, the one that goes to the starter.

That power is going to come back up. This wire, go through the light bulb and the light bulb will give us a visual representation to whether or not we're getting power down there. Well, what I'm looking for is the moment when the starter doesn't crank, but the light bulb lights up. If the light bulb is going to light up, that means there's power going to the solenoid, but the solenoid is not closing and that will indicate a faulty solenoid.

If uh, we cannot find where the light bulb lights up and the starter does not crank, then that means that, uh, the starter is not the problem and there's something else going on because that would indicate that there's no power being sent to the starter when the key is commanded on or off. So let's get this thing connected real quick and then we'll begin to, uh, continue testing. Okay, light bulb coming in, test lead coming in Connect that right there. and then we'll take the yellow and we're going to attach that here to battery ground.

Like, so actually real quick. Let me test the light bulb before we begin the Uh starter solenoid test here. Bear with me folks. It's got to be thorough on this one.

So what I'm going to do is we'll just attach both sides and then connect that to positive. There we go. See that. So we've just completed a very simple circuit.

ground lead, positive lead. We got our load and our load is functioning very good. So now we can take this lead off and we will connect the long lead going down to the solenoid. There we go.

We'll leave this thing. Actually, we're going to take this with us cuz I need to go into the cabin and hit the key. So we're just going to stretch this around and stick it right up here on our windshield. There we go.

You stay right there. let's hop back into the cabin. We're going to hit the key and nothing. See that? Look at that.

So now we have no starter actuation and we do not have the uh light bulb lighting up. Okay NADA nada. Oh, we had a click. There we go.

You see that light was on while it was cranking. Okay, let's just wait until the thing fails again and then uh, we can continue testing. So I don't believe that it's the starter because we saw that that light was not Illuminating while the key was being turned. which tells me that power is not being sent down to that starter.

Uh, when it's being commanded, that's what. I Think one more time here. try it again. NOP It's not doing it.

Why? Okay, a few minutes later and we're back to the no crank condition and we can see during our no cranking that the ignition key is producing a a response. we're losing our chime. yet the light is not Illuminating Okay, all righty, let's hop back in. I Just got back out of the office and quiet beeping noise.

ding ding ding ding shut up. So anyway I went uh, went to the office I pulled up all data and I have printed out the uh, the circuit diagrams for the starter assembly and let's see what we've got going on here. Let's find our ignition switch. Here we go.

There's our ignition switch. It sends power to the Smart Junction Block through Fuse 21. I Think Fuse 21 is good, sends more power because the thing does work So we can assume the fuses and the wires are good because we do end up well. maybe not the wires.

uh, could have a partially broken wire, but uh, it. it does complete the circuit intermittently. So we have, oh, we do have a starter relay. look at that starter relay at the junction block.

did not know we had one of those. That must be the relay for the Selenoid. Yeah, let's find our starter motor here. That's our power to the Selenoid.

That's the big red wire that we saw earlier. This is our starter motor assembly. which means this pink white wire here. that is the one that uh, commands the solenoid closed.

There's our solenoid represented right there and then that runs the motor. So we're losing power somewhere between here and here. because it's not actuating this ignition solenoid, we could be losing ground somewhere. but I I don't think we do.

Those are pretty good looking grounds on that battery. and uh I I Didn't check the engine ground just yet. but I'm going to go ahead and assume that the engine ground is good. Everything else seems to work.

Um, body ground seems to work. All the components in here seem to work. Uh, the only thing that doesn't work is intermittently it doesn't start. So what? I'm looking at here I'm thinking it could be relay issue.

Uh, but I don't know we've got. We have a relay here and digital transmission range sensor so that's a oh yeah, that's the neutral safety switch common referred to as neutral safety switch. Uh, but that's the range position sensor. That's the one that tells the ECM uh what gear position you are in and if this thing is not in park or in neutral, then uh, it will not allow the engine to crank.

Okay, um I want to be able to hold the key and let it? uh and keep that no crank condition. I Think we have a bad neutral safety. It went through eventually and the neutral. it doesn't start here either.

Yeah, yeah, let's get. let's get out of here. Let's go jump under the hood and check that neutral safety switch out. Maybe it's got a bad connection at the connector? I think it's in there cuz when I was holding the key and then wiggling the shifter, uh, it should have been moving that neutral safety switch around some and that could have, uh allowed that switch to close contact and Then um.

and then it made connection with the starter. so it's either got a faulty one. Uh, perhaps it's adjustable? Let's uh, let's take a look down there and see if we can't, uh, locate that unit I Believe according to the diagram there, it's on top transmission somewhere here. Uh, let's find the shift cable cuz the cable's going to run down from the shifter I think that's it right there.

Right right down past the brake reservoir. see some of the cable so that runs over and then it connects to the shift lever. We're looking at that right down here. Yeah, yeah, there there it is.

That's the uh. the range selector switch slash neutral safety switch right here. that's the connector on it. Let's uh, let's disconnect that connector real quick.

Oh, that's uh, thing's on there too I don't know if I can get that off. feels kind of stuck. feels very stuck. okay.

pry bar trim tool coming in. need to just push on? I Pushed the tab down and I felt the tab depress so need to just kind of work this connector back some. There we go. just want to inspect the pens in there.

Oh e it's full of green stuff. Is that corrosion? Yeah, there's all kinds of something. something in there. What is this? There's liquid in there.

bad connection that looks very corroded in there. Okay, it's not not good, not good at all. I'll tell you What we need to get some more access to what's going on down there regardless of what. I Find or don't find I I Can't reach what I'm trying to reach.

So I'm going to pull this intake off of here. Couple hoses and one screw right here and a band clamp. Let's pull this guy off just to give me some more access to what we're trying to work with. See, we've got one clamp, a worm gear clamp, unscrew, you, pull that out airbox out.

All right. now. we've got a little bit more space here to Tinker with this. see what we've got going on? Yeah, there's some green looking whatever something something in there.

There's definitely corrosion. Let me get some battery corrosion remover stuff to spray in there and then we'll blow it out with some electrical contact cleaner and try to clean that business up right there. Okay, I've got some NOCO Battery Terminal Service: It's an anti-corrosion foaming kind of business here. Spray that into the connector, let that kind of soak in some, Then we'll blow it out and then spray it out with some uh, let contact cleaner me, try to get some in that neutral safety switch while we're at it there.

All right, let's let that stuff hang out for a little while, let it soak in, do its job, and we'll clean it out. Be right back in a minute. x amount of minutes has passed. The uh corrosion, preventative stuff has subsided and all the foamy bubbles are gone.

So I'm going to come in here with some uh, electrical contact. cleaner. stuff stinks too. Just spray all that out.

Let me turn the fan. I Don't want to breed this garbage. spray all this stuff out of here. Clean these up as best we can.

That's good. All right. Blow some air in there to blow out the rest of any debris we may have missed. and then we'll plug her back in and see what happens.

Blow gun coming in and in the connector. Yay! All right, let's plug her back in and see if we get an improvement in system operations here. There we go. All right back to the cabin.

Uh I don't want to set any service engine lights so I'm going to reinstall this uh intake tube real fast and plug in the mass air flow sensor. that way the ECM doesn't recognize that the map is disconnected and set the code and all that good stuff. Then I got to clear it. That's good.

I'll plug you in right there there. All right. let's go recheck it. see if it's going to crank or if it's not.

maybe we will get away with a uh, a no component repair or par cranking. Okay L neutral n we lose so it's still not doing it or it's still doing it. Put it in park. Okay, interesting.

So I hit the key and hold it for a little while and then it wants to crank I'm maybe that thing's out of adjustment? Let's try to adjust the uh neutral safety if we can and if that doesn't work and uh, well. I don't know then we'll move on test something else. So it does appear that that can be adjusted. Looks like it's bolted down with two 8 mil bolts Let me Go fetch a little ratchet and uh, we can see if we can adjust that thing some perhaps the cable has stretched uh for the shifter and it's not fully contacting or closing that neutral safety that could, uh, also be an issue, then get if it's not, maybe we have a faulty neutral safety.

if that corrosion made its way down the pins, uh, it could be corroded inside of that switch and uh, that may be the cause. let's grab an eight. the ultro come here eight and the orange one I Like the orange one I think that was an eight. Yeah, if that corrosion went on, it could be down inside of those little uh inside of that switch.

and if it's in the switch, then there's no saving it or cleaning it. But we can at least try uncp that second one over here. that should just be the two. Let's just give her a little bit of a turn, see that it rotated some.

Let me lock it back down right there and right there Okay, let's put the intake back on halfhazard. Le Get on there, get all the way on there and take tube. it's not getting on there. Let's Get It On Let's Get It On Yeah, there we go.

All right, real quick before we get too crazy with this. um I need to rule out the starter relay right now cuz I'm I'm really thinking that this is an issue with uh I think these are it I think it's that one I think it's an issue with that uh range position selector switch. So we're going to do the relay swapping game I think that's the starter. let's go look it up in a second.

But so what we did is we took this relay from this position, moved it over, took this one from this position, moved it over. So we did a relay swap between the fan I think it's a fan or a horn uh to the Uh starter. so switch that over I'm going to run into the computer real quick, double check that and then and um, we'll go back and try to hit the key some more and see if we can get it to fail to crank. Here we go: Starter relay, components, locations and low speed fan control starter relay.

There we go. So yep, that was right we took I thought it was the Horn uh where is the horn? There is no horn here. It is a non- horny. Taurus All right.

So we swapped over starter relay and the low speed fan circuit relay. So the uh, if if that is a faulty relay, then the symptom should be gone. Uh, if the symptom remains I just broke my light bulb. If the symptom remains, yeah, that was an Aor I Don't think we need that anymore.

Anyway, let's get rid of our lead. Cost me four bucks. Yeah, so if the the symptom is there, then that tells us that the relay is still good and then we can refocus back on that uh uh uh. neutral position SL Safety switch.

So we'll just keep hitting it here until it does wiggle that some. Nope, let's try neutral. There's neutral. See that.

Watch this. See if I can't hit this with the holding it Watch here. Oh, it didn't It's not going well. it's not the relay.

I'm assuming we have a range safety switch issue. so we clean the connect. There it goes. Look at that.

It started okay. it's not the relay. We switch the relay. that's not it.

I Think we have a faulty range position selector. Let's go get one ordered. I'm going to swap it out and then see what it does. Let's lose this airbox one more time.

disconnecting mass, airf flow. pull the tubing out, get you out of the way. hello Range selector switch SL Neutral safety switch. Now this will be fun because this is adjustable uh in a couple locations here.

Oh, come on now, come on, Plug, what are you doing? It was unplugged. Yeah. I'm fairly confident that that corrosion has migrated past the pins and into that uh little switch there. So that's that's our cause of this.

uh, this business. Um what? I'm going to do? Let's get in a little closer here. What we do is we do not disconnect the lever from the shift linkage right there. see in the back.

We do disconnect the lever uh from the stud that comes out of the transmission and passes through this switch. So we're going to put looks like a 14 on there and I'm going to hit that with an impact. The reason I'm going to knock that off with an impact is I don't want to put a regular ratchet on it or a wrench and then have all of that force of me trying to break that bolt loose end up being transmitted into the cable. But if I put an impact on it and then I hold on to this, the impact will be uh so shocking that it'll break that nut loose real fast and uh will not fatigue the cable cuz I don't want to break a cable with a wrench.

so let me grab uh let me grab my 38 and uh I think it's a 14 mm and then we'll Buzz that thing off and then pull that switch uh off of its uh, off of it house. We have the uh, the longed extended wobbly bit 14 I think it's a 14. Uh, it's a 13. but you know what? I don't want to walk back so we're just going to buzz that off in the 14 see what happens.

So what I'm going to do is I'll reach down and hang on to uh, that lever and then hit that with some reverse impacts and she comes right off. See that that's our nut, Set that aside right here. Then I'm going to take the lever. we're going to wiggle it some, pop it off of the stud and we'll just set that aside.

So now we can go in and pull those two bolts out. the ones we had, uh, used to adjust this disconnect, you spin these guys out and then swap the new sensor out. I uh I have the new one. It just arrived a moment ago, so it's here behind me on the fan waiting.

Pull these two eights out. Oh, those are tight. Yeah. I can't get them by my hand.

We're just going to do the meticulous ratchet back and forth maneuver. Getting bored yet back and forth back and forth. Lots of corrosion on these threads too. Oh no, you don't Uh yeah.

I just I dropped it. Then I pushed it farther away. a Come here. Come here, Got you? I don't like losing my Fasteners Fasteners bolts and nuts, cotter pins.

Everything but I'm all about your fingers. I'm assuming this is going to pop up and off of that uh, shifter stud. That stud, uh is coming out of the transmission. It comes up from the linkage internal and it actually let me get this off of here.

I'll show you a better view if I can remove it. looks like the switch is kind of stuck to it. Yeah, it passes through the switch so you see the stud there that comes up and when that stud turns, that's actually what changes the shift position mechanically in the transmission. This thing just lines up it up with that stud with these little notches here.

and then when that stud is turned, it turns the inside of this switch and that changes the electrical connection. Uh, between the contacts. and speaking of the contacts, we look a little closer. you can see a boatload of corrosion in there.

See all the green, that green nasty looking business? Yeah, that's all corrosive or corrosion. I'm fairly certain that it migrated into this switch. Um, maybe we can break this open later and take a look. Okay, we will break that open and take a look.

We'll do that at the end of the video first. I Want to fix the guy's car So what we need to do. Make sure these are all in the same same positions here. they look good.

It all lines up, pins are the same all look at that, that pin is bent down. see that one one of those is bent I must unbend it. That would have been fun to plug in of bent pins. Yeah.

Anyways, now come back in here and we'll slide this guy down over that little, uh, that stud coming out. See that. So we're up and over and and now I may drop in the Fasteners and then tighten the guy back down. I'm going to, uh, try to put it in the same position that I found it cuz that stuff is all fairly calibrated.

I may have to adjust it afterwards depending on whether it cranks or not or hopefully it, uh, it'll be fine the first time, but you never know things happen. It could have also been adjusted before, perhaps to compensate for, uh, stretch in the cable, but we'll figure that out. Uh, in just a minute. When we get these bolts tighten down some and we get that lever attached, we put it right there in the middle.

That's what I Likey, that's what I want. Okay, that one's kind of tight I'm not going to fully lock these down yet cuz I probably will have to adjust it somehow, but we are going to get it a little tight that way it can't move when uh, we move the shift lever and we're running out of threads. it's bottoming out right here. That's tightish.

Let's plug her in, you know when I saw the uh, the listing when I looked up the part for this. uh, the switch here. They also had had a listing for the connector, so I'm assuming this was a common problem. If they're selling the connector to go with it, that means that they're failing simultaneously.

Anyway, our our nut is back on coming in with the wrong size socket. I'm holding the lever over here to make sure again, that we don't fatigue the uh, the shift lever or the shift linkage. the cable cable? Rather okay. That guy is installed.

Um, let's throw the intake back on one more time and hit the key and see if this thing fails to crank at any point in time here. it's either going to work or it's not. Figure that out in a minute. Plug that in so we don't get a code.

There we go looking good. Get that out of here, back to the cabin and we're in park. Beginning engine starting sequence now. Okay, well that's one good uh.

restart. Let's Wiggle this around another. That's good. Let me move this shifter around.

I'm going to try to get it to fail. Nope, not failing. Let's try neutral. see if we can get it to fail in neutral.

So all the way down. Okay, that's the bottom of neutral. It starts. That's the top of neutral.

It starts, bottom starts. Let's try to pull it past. Okay, right there it stops. But if I let it relax to neutral.

Okay, let's try. Park Park's the one that really matters. So we're going to hold it and park. Pull it all the way up.

It starts all the way down. I'm starting to kill the battery I Just killed the battery. You guys. Too many restarts.

The battery's dead. Oh no. Yep, Ha yeah. I killed the battery.

Too many restarts. Let's go bust out the charger, recharge this thing, and then recheck it. Yeah, what was that? like? 10 15 20 restarts with uh, no run time in between to keep the battery up. Oopsie, Rolling.

Rolling rolling. Get that charger rolling negatory. So what I'm going to do? We'll throw this thing back on the charge. Get this? uh, ever start, Never start.

Walmart Action Yeah, you like that. Let's touch those together. Be 200 amps to it. We'll get the never start reconnected over here, cracking myself up.

Uh, we'll do 25 amps for as long as I want. Anyway, what I was saying is while uh, while that thing's restarting I think we are in a good position to assume at this point that this thing is going to be in good condition. So I want to or it's going to that it's repaired. So I'm going to tighten up those uh, those last bolts down there that I I snugged up but left them kind of loose I'm going to tighten those real fast.

We're going to put this intake back on, let the battery rechar recharge, and then we can do a series of uh retch retests and checks I cannot speak properly right now and if we find that it starts without fail, then this operation is a success. I'm I'm very confident that what we have found here uh was the cause of this failure. Rid of that. but we still have to verify.

And since I killed the battery while cranking and retesting I have not yet verified. but so far we're looking pretty good. Let's get that out of here too. Uh, it's been about 15 minutes with this battery on a charge.

Let's go. Uh, try to aggravate the situation a little bit harder and see. Get on there stupid clamp. I know I know 8 mm.

Let's go see if uh, this thing is going to fail to crank I think we got it. I'm pretty sure we got it. I just need to, uh, try to recreate all those conditions as best we can. Yeah, she's she's going to start every time.

Pretty sure we got it here here. I'll tell you what. let's do it like this: We'll hold this all the way up cranking and without pulling it into reverse, we'll hold it all the way down. Cranking? Yep, anywhere in between.

Okay, it's not failing to start anymore I'm pretty sure we got it. hundo percent. Yep, let's go take that old switch. Uh, take it over to the bench, break it, or drill it, or open it up and see if we cannot identify any Carnage / damage inside of it.

All righty. So it looks like this component is. It's a two-piece type of clam shell thing and they have it riveted together. So we're going to have to drill those rivets out in order to extract or to, uh, disassemble rather.

uh, this component here for additional inspection. Now, keep in mind there's not a snowballs chance that this part is, uh, going to be usable after. I Drill these rivets out so don't tear open one of these. uh, um, thinking you might find the damage and hoping that that's going to be a good result for your inspection.

So uh, what I'm saying is if you're not 100% confident that this part's no good, don't drill the thing open cuz you can't put it back together. I Mean you could try, but it probably won't work. Yep, so we're over at the bench on the visce. We're going to go ahead and drill this unit open.

uh, right over here. Let's get our drill bit set up in the drilling unit. There we go. We're just going to drill these rivets out.

That was. that was all the way out. I Didn't mean to drill them that much, just need to drill the head off them ring that's broken. It's a really good drill bit.

It doesn't drill rivets out. It drills right through them. Go annihilated. destroyed ending of rivet.

Let's crack this case open here. See what is going to be in? Oh I Missed one, missed one right there. Thought there was another one there and the survey says what do we have in here where? Ew oh that's bad, you nasty. Yeah, there's no way.

Yeah. I was right. Looks like all that corrosion managed to migrate its way inside of this sensor. Look at that.

That's absolutely horrible. That steel that was useless. So somehow water intrusion got in here. somehow.

someway. it was really messing up all the connections inside. Uh, that starter was just not able to receive the proper voltage from the ignition key to, uh, get this thing to start up so that's a confirmed kill. Uh I Don't need the car to fail I don't need to continue cranking it.

This is a 100% uh, a definite dag and a repair. We got her. That's good to go. All right guys.

Well, we're done. I Need to get that thing parked. We're all set. Uh, vehicle is completed I Have nothing more to offer you on this particular video except to thank each and every one of you guys for watch this video As always I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video.

If in fact, you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do Not forget to tap that like button while you're down there. And most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys in the next one. Have a great day! Appreciate you for being here.

Glad you enjoyed it, Glad you're here till the end. Don't forget to tap that like button. Hit the Subscribe button if you have not already. I'll catch you guys in the next one in the transmission.

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