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Hello, everybody good day to you, welcome back, i'm glad you're here. I know i'm glad to be here. Mission number one: let's bust out the scan tool and see what our check engine light storage trouble codes are indicating all right scanner begin scanning. Now, please we're in the ecm right now we're not looking at the airbag just yet.
Let's see what the powertrain has to say about this all right: p0118 coolant, temp circuit signal, high fault, with a coolant temp sensing circuit p0161, o2 circuit bank 2, sensor 2. That's for the heater circuit! There's a fault there. P0332 knock sensor. 2 signal short slash: low p0449 evap system, vent control, circuit, low and p1637 generator l terminal circuit and that one just went away now.
It's back okay, interesting, poor connection at the nader whoa schedule gravity. Let's see what our airbag module has to offer. Current electronic front-end sensor, two-fault b0103. I've never seen this trouble code before do some reading about that electronic front-end sensor two-fold electronic front end ride height or something right.
No, that's weird. Let's see the graph of what everyone else did said, replace the airbag impact sensor. Okay, yeah something with a sensor all right: okay, first things: first, as always, let's pop an easy hood: let's start on that ac system, diagnostic first we'll pull the machine over and get it hooked up, see what kind of pressures and uh refrigerant quantity we have and Then we'll go from there, 5.3 liters here, wow, it's tight, okay, and what do we got? Compressor is not running on the low side. What is this? We have 100 pounds on the low side and nothing on the high side that can't not be right at all.
I'm confused: what do i do um? I have no idea what this is about. Never seen this before in my life uh, let's, let's recover it and just see what happens while that's going down i'll go. Do some other diag work must've been in the machine, keep in mind, this machine has been screwing up and it's due for a service visit that was weird hey. I found the door handle in question driver side, inner door handle that's, what's broken, i'm sorry outer handle inner handle works outer handle does not work.
That's very broken. Okay, we'll have to order one of these with a replacement linkage. Okay, all right! We are fully discharged. Now it's almost complete time to throw some service ports on this.
As per my usual protocol, then we'll re-gas, it fire it up and see how it runs all right, pop these service ports valves off real, quick like and we will get them extracted this schrader threads in this other one is a whole different design. Come here, oh tool, gravity, no worries. I see it come here. All right, low side valve is ready to go in valve click.
Now this valve is a little bit different. Let's hang on to the line, otherwise the line will twist because we have to unthread this valve. It's a chevrolet thing, got it there's the old one, here's the new one these may or may not have been leaking, but uh, as you should know. By now, i routinely change these every time. I touch an ac system. I've been burned before by not doing such things. Give me your flashlight get out of the way nobody wants to see you pickage, okay, vacuum time, all right, while i'm waiting for this machine to figure out if it's going to drain its internal oil or not, i'm just going to move on to the car and Do some other inspection typing look at this right here now this were to end up swinging over here it's going to make contact right here now we have a straight short to ground with no fuse this uh. This can't be here.
This cannot be here at all. I'm actually gon na remove this. I have immediately discovered that this is the incorrect battery for the vehicle, see how it's kind of sitting sideways and it doesn't really fit in the tray. Additionally, this is supposed to be a side post battery because these terminals - or these lugs, are supposed to bolt on to the side.
So we've got the wrong stuff going on here i mean it'll work kind of but uh. This is not the right way. Um, the right way would be to install the proper battery and connect it to the way it was designed to, because this is that's just not going to fly long term yeah. I will qualify this as a hazard.
Oh don't do that. What is this all right? We recovered 0.6 pounds and spec is 1.6 pounds. So as soon as i can get this vacuum to uh take place, we'll go ahead and charge it there. We go all right.
Let's start the charge, zero one, six pounds refrigerant begin charging now, please go baby. Go come on hurry up. Does what i tell it to all righty we're back in the cabin the system charge has completed, let's go ahead and fire up the ac and uh check our temperature here powering on full speed ahead. Maximum cold, okay pressures came up.
We're a little high on the low side. It'll do this it's a little bit up. There. 250 is a little bit high on the high side, but it's also 89 degrees yeah.
I can live with that yeah, i'm actually more concerned about finding the potential leak in this than anything. At this point, it's cooling off, though. Okay i've got the system turned off. Pressures have returned to static they're equalized, i'm gon na go ahead and uh power.
The compressor back on uh give it a little bit of throttle and we're gon na watch how high the high side goes. So so, okay, 2000 rpms ac full blast we're at over 350 pounds or almost at 350 on the high side and we're only making 75 degree. Air 70. uh something's wrong.
Here, uh we've got to have some kind of restriction in the system. Okay, this tells me that, although it is functioning it's not performing like it should be something's going on. I'm gon na have to discharge this again break into the system and see if i cannot locate the restriction in it. Maybe it's a clogged orifice tube uh. Maybe the compressor is starting to come apart and it's clogged up the condenser up front um, who knows it could be a lot of things, but at this point further diagnostic will be required. So i will be moving on to the other items that are on the list and one of those items is a complaint that states that the vehicle battery dies when, when it's parked overnight now granted, we do have the wrong battery in there, but that really shouldn't Affect whether it dies or not so, let's bust out the multimeter and do a parasitic draw test. That's going to tell us if there's a module or some kind of component in the car that is staying on when it shouldn't be and bringing that battery down. So what we're going to do? Uh we got everything, unplugged scanners disconnected.
We need to remove all possible and potential sources of current draw in the cabin, so lights are off keys out, disconnected phone chargers are out of it. Let's go get the meter set up and uh disconnect battery all right multimeter. You hang out right here where we can see you we're going to switch our positive lead over to the amp setting turn this on to dc amps there. Now you can see what i'm going to do is connect meter leads in series with the negative battery cable and it's going to pull or all the current running through.
That cable is also going to run through this meter and the meter's going to tell me how much current that is, the normal specified amount of current while the vehicle is shut down, i believe, is uh 300, maybe 350 millions, so anything more than let's say: let's Call it 400 anything more than 400 is gon na be excessive, but i believe spec is around three 350 or so regardless, let's get this thing hooked up, so we can monitor. What's going on, let's install another terminal, so i have something to clamp. The meter lead to click one more jumper lead that gets connected to the battery, and the other side goes right here to the positive lead on the meter and we're going to see how much is being drawn as of right now. Looking like 1.7 amps, it's kind of a lot, let's turn on a load, real, quick, just to make sure it's set up correctly.
That's five amps! Those are our marker lights, okay, everything's off again door, open door closed, okay! Well, what i'm going to do is i'm going to watch this meter and i'm going to pull fuses out one at a time until i find the one that drops this down to where it's supposed to go, hey look at that fell down to a half an Amp, but that's still a little excessive 500 milliamps is too much that will draw it down overnight. So, let's start pulling fuses see when it stops nope nope. This is a little meticulous, but this is the way i like to do it nope. We can also leave the battery connected and then check voltage between the pins on the fuses, and if you have a voltage drop between pins, you can hypothesize that particular circuit is drawing current. But i also found it's uh just as easy for me to disconnect fuses nope, okay, so gone through all the fuses, all the mini fuses. So far, uh we have not seen a voltage or a current drop that puts us in the specs. So, let's move on to the big maxi fuses and uh, see if it's one of these that's causing it it's a no half amp we'll do the easy ones. First, these are these big ones are a bear to get out.
No, not that one, not that one. Let's do this yellow one over here we got. Oh hey check that out. Look at that, let's plug it back in 500, milliamps 39 milliamps, 499.
500. 39. We might have something here: where's the lid. What does our lid indicate? Lid indicates this one, which is a 60 amp 60 abs.
This is the maxi fuse that powers the abs module. That is our battery draw. I found you and that, ladies and gentlemen, is how we conduct a parasitic draw test now, like i said, there's many many other methods and i'm sure you will chime in down below in the comments on the way you like to do it. This is the way i chose to do it this time.
So all right, that's a confirmed, diag right there, let's get the meter out of here, move on to our next complaint, i'll just put that back right there. For now. I don't know if i can tighten this up any better. Maybe i can maybe i can't yeah, that's better click okeydoke.
So i'm going through all these uh trouble codes stored in the ecm uh. All of them are not related, they're. All different systems that are fitted and uh i want to try to get at least uh one or two of the easy ones diagnosed. While we've got time today, uh one of them was the p0.
Oh, i already forgot hang on. Let me look, i think it was a p0440 had something to do with the evap uh bent solenoid yeah. Where are we? Where are we? Where are we? Oh there? It is yeah evap, vent control, solenoid circuit low. What i'm gon na do is command the vent.
Solenoid, it is back here behind the tank. Where are you there? You are. I already came down here and unplugged this, but i'm gon na probe these connectors right here these pins, with the with the meter, i'm gon na watch voltage and i'm gon na command. This solenoid on and off, if i get a command here - and i don't hear an audible click here with it plugged in after i verify that the circuit works, i can conclude that this vet solenoid right here is faulty and uh will have to be replaced.
So we're gon na diagnose that real fast all right, so we're going to go into functional test. Uh, that's going to be engine test, yeah! That's it there! We go functional test output controls! That's what we're looking for! Evap vet solenoid! That's! That's! Our guy tesla function blah blah yeah. I know all right, let's get the meter plugged in, i know we're rolling around in the dirt. I don't have a lift, they're all full and i'm trying to squeeze this thing in as best i can so bear with me on that one folks, all right, so the scan tool is commanding this solenoid on. So i should have some voltage here at the connector. Oh dirt, in my face awesome: let's go ahead and probe this and i'll show you the voltage. All right. That's connected here comes the metering device.
Look at that we got voltage and if i plug it in, i also do not get actuation of the solenoid notice. We do not hear an audible click, i'm going to go, find a load light and put an actual load on this circuit, real quick just to see if it will uh function when commanded on and off, okay. So here's what we're gon na do. I have this light bulb here and i'm using a light bulb in order to put a load on the circuit, but i've got a light here.
A load and i've got two test pins: we're going to connect these pins to the connector and then use the scan tool to actuate the circuit on and off. We're now connected i'll keep the light bulb. In your view, reaching down with the scan tool commanding the circuit on and off, here's our on command there we go and off very good okay. So this tells me that the ecm is working and that the circuitry is good.
I'm now going to plug this vent. Solenoid back in i'm going to command it again with the scanner and we're going to listen for an audible click out of this device right here. So there's on no click off. No click that verifies that this vent solenoid is faulty.
It has to be replaced all right. Let's get out of here, i'm a little rusty and kind of cramped down here and it's getting a little warm needing to go. Hey. Look.
It's got new brakes all right, yeah, scooch scooching, so we've gone through and diagnosed the evap system code, generator l terminal circuit code. That leads me to suspect that there's a feedback circuit that is open within the alternator assembly itself. I have not yet confirmed that the alternator is charging, but uh we've got other things, yeah see. Now it's working again.
Look at that and now it's gone again anyway. We confirmed the evap system. Uh vent solenoid is faulty. These knock sensors.
I need to do some more diag work on that the o2 sensor. I need to do a little bit more diag work on that and this coolant, temp circuit signal high, is going to be an interesting one because it has a brand new temp sensor in it, and it's still giving us the code. I'm assuming someone saw this code before and just tossed the sensor in there uh. That was the wrong choice.
Uh regardless i will not uh. I'm not gon na invest too much more time at this point in here, because i've found quite a few things that are wrong and uh. We need to bounce this off the owner of the car and see what they want to do about this moving forward. Okay, so real quick recap before we're all done here, so we need to redischarge the ac system.
Take a bunch of it. Apart, find what's restricted, replace and repair, you need to pull the intake off. Probably gon na have to replace one of the knock sensors down below the intake, there's two of them down there. If i go through all that work, we're going to do both of them and the jumper harness then we're going to move over. We need to put the correct battery in it with the correct terminal, lugs hook all that stuff up, oh yeah, and on top of it all this alternator is only making 13.2 volts. We want to see 14 right here now. I do know that i am going to be doing some of the work on this truck, but i'm not going to be doing much of that today, because i've got some other priorities to handle first and we'll have to reschedule this one later. So that being said, this truck may potentially turn into a whole series of videos for us to watch uh.
That being said, i'm gon na go ahead and close this one out right now. I've got ta, go and build the estimate for this and uh and relay that to all the appropriate individuals who are gon na do the decision making here. So that being said, as always, i'd like to thank you for watching my video, i hope you enjoyed this video again and as always thank you for watching and, most importantly before i go, i would like to wish each and every one of you a great day See you guys later, oh, i almost forgot to put my service port caps back on. That's a that's a fail.
I can't i just can't have this okay now, i'm done again see you guys later.
I instantly thought there was an electrical fault with how many random codes there were, I suppose the easy checks would be easier than the rabbit hole my guess would lead to.
Mr. O would be proud of the diagnostics
OW! You thumped me right in the forehead! 😂. And I did have a great day!! 🙂
I love these videos! Idk why but I just do!
What do you do when you've pulled every fuse (& relays) and the parasitic draw reading doesn't change?
I hope you somehow get to see this, as I have my own little tool box and I love to wrench on my truck. But I don't understand the difference between snap-on and craftsman tools. Both hand tools have the lifetime warranty but snap-ons are so expensive. Is there anything I'm missing? Thanks for the video!
🤙🏽🤙🏽
Another great vid!!!!
Ty for this video on how to use meter for finding leaking electrons. I need the follow up
Saw OVERPRESSURE in the title & was reminded of the scene from Goonies where the gang is underground among those pipes & Mouth cries out "OVER PRESSURE!" shortly below things go kabloeey.
A 300mA draw is equivalent to an (older, as in classic auto days) incandescent dome light…will kill a bat overnight. I'd say anything over 50mA ought to raise an eyebrow. I'm most familiar with the newer Honda's, and they drop to under 10mA after all the electronics settle down.
cant wait to see how this one works out
This may sound dumb but all I saw you do about the very high draw was put the fuse back in after you determined which one it was. Did I miss something there? What caused the draw to drop?
These problems along with many others can be a bear to diag a real pain in the Richard
OK, so it is obvious there has been a discharged battery here, and a new one fitted. Modern cars produce a lot of codes under these circumstances, most of which can be cleared and see what comes back. Do you know if these spurious codes were cleared previously?
you could use a DC clamp meter for the draw test I personally prefer the klien tools meters. the clamp also allows testing multiple cables without removing the battery. helpful on bigger rigs with 6 or more batteries and 4-6 cables running to the battery. they also work good at testing alternator's charging current. i use mine 4-6 times a day.
Nice troubleshooting and deductive reasoning. Nice meter too!!! Thanks again!!! 😎
This video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work. WOW very interesting 1st class very kool great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great
Love the videos and the brake cleaner effects 😂
Excellent diag. video Ray. Thanks!
I got lucky with my 5.3L. One knock sensor harness boot wasn't pushed in all the way, and the other was basically laying in the opening of the valley cover, but the knock sensors were spotless. Not even a hint of rust.
now im no ac tech, but does anyone else think its strange that both high and low side ports are on the same line? theyre just on different sides of the coupler. am i way off or is this not your "typical" ac setup? its almost like they used a second hand part that had the second port in it closest to the firewall and joined the original line to it… this just doesnt seem to make any sense to me. Hope ray sees this and responds
By the tone of the phone, sounds like you are in a new shop?
Ray, when are we going to see you with two or three T Pins in the brim of your hat? I believe that's the new fashion statement for Electrical Diagnostic Technicians.
I'll be honest, I read the title as parasitic drawl and now I want a story about a man who saps the energy out of people by telling them rambling old-timey stories.
Ray there is a tool that touches the top of the fuses while installed. It tells you what the draw is.
Pretty cool.
I wanted to see the flashlight 😜
No the Chevy Silverado has listing for top and side mount…I had a 1996 and the damn side mount almost left me stranded 5 times..at my Shop I ordered top mount posts terminals and the top mount battery that also goes in the Silverado.
Was the Condensor fan working? Didn't hear you mention anything about airflow across the Condensor.
Pulling the Orifice for inspection when you had the system discharged is something I always do on that model of trucks as it doesn't get much easier with the Orifice located between the service ports up top.
low side and high side on the same line?
What does the law where you are, say with regard to cracked windsheilds say? In Scotland that's a big no no.
I did the fuse thing for a friend recently. Was his ignition module. Truck ran fine, just would run down the battery over night. New battery good charging. Pulled about 1.4 amps.
I like it o-lot
Nice JOB Ray
felt off at the shop all day cause i didn't have time to watch this video before leaving this morning as per my usual. (oil pressure sensor was out in the vehicle and had started leaking out the weephole. had to change it cause i drive around 30 miles one way daily) great vid. at least it wasn't an eco engine… imho worst engine chevy ever put in a vehicle.
Keep in mind, when you first reconnected power, everything was booting up. You need to give a minute or three to let everything boot up and shut down and stabilize before making any conclusions.
Just something to keep in mind also, on some later vehicles (Benz GLS as example) if you don't lock your vehicle something in the system stays active and you may have a flat battery in the morning.
That oil pressure also looks low. I have a 2004 5.3 and it hangs around 35-38psi fully warmed up at idle.
Electronic front end………..probably an erectile disfunction code!
Most of the time where I see a blockage is in the orifice on these vehicles.
Solution to fixing truck put it in rice and try again jk but with the ac charger machine could it be a hose being clogged?
No that pdt is the fastest way
I fell asleep again did the Volkswagen get fix……….
Chased down a parasitic draw on an 80's vintage Chrysler New Yorker once — stealership had already sold the guy a battery and an alternator. A friend's dad asked me to take a look at it — turns out the plastic cable on the motorized antenna had busted, and the antenna motor kept running because the antenna never hit the limit switch.
Ray, put some refrigerant oil on all o-rings before installing!!
I was bought up on Euro Spec vehicle, obviously being in Europe. (UK)
We are taught to let "the car go to sleep"
Often watching, you can see the various modules switch off. Often find that comfort features can take up to 25-30 minutes to shut down.
Often due to the vehicle readiness functions, especially with keyless options, you can experience switch on if you move your keys too close.
Obviously, European (I'm mercedes/scania trained) current draws are a f***ing nightmare.
Check something, leave it for an hour, monitor, over and over again!!
Hey ray your an awesome tech and I love your videos
Aren't we glad that vehicles HAVE fuses?
Process of elimination works for me
calling the power draw the cluster. just had to resolder my 03 serria as it would kill a fully charged battery overnight.
Don’t be mean ray the flashlight just wanted it’s 15 seconds of screen time
Question how can the low side service connection be on the same line as the high side service connection am I missing something here
My King Rainmam your Head mechanic? Do you put your personal lubricant on the fittings before you put them in!
You tought me something today. 👍
Is the old 327 and the 5.3 Liter the same functioning engine with the exception of fuel injection…
The magic number is 50 milliamps. If everything is off and working proper you should have less than 50 usually around 40.
The parasitic draw troubleshooting was a neat one. The solution was so simple for diagnosis, I'm actually kind of upset I didn't think about it until now. Thank you Ray!
That thing is clapped
Love the Diag. I’ll be using this on my Chevy
They put a larger Battery in thinking it could handle the Parasitic draw, wouldn't doubt that they overfilled their A/C using recharge kits from the auto parts, damaging the system. 🥶
Excellent diag Ray!! What a blast to watch.
Hey Ray and All, I recently went through the B0103 dilemma. I replaced the impact sensor; it was swollen and cracked open. Replacing the sensor didn't clear the code. I assumed that the sensor I put on was faulty. It turned out that I had a partial break in one of the impact sensor wires. The wire harness was wedged between the frame and a oil cooling line that ran to the radiator on the drivers side. I fixed the wire and the truck was happy again. Judging from the condition of the impact sensor it probably needed replacing soon anyways too.
Great diagnosis Ray! Always enjoy watching your videos. Aloha!
Oh, a GM with electrical issues, say it isnt so. Also, thats a weak ass car batt. 650 cca? wow someone messed with things they shouldnt be. Second note, why do all chevy drivers drive around with cracked windshields lol.
Hey ray, thanks for sharing this video, I learned a lot from it.
I'll be seen you soon 👍🏻
NO ODOM READ??
Hey Rain man from my hospital bed👍
Group 65 battery … typically find those in diesels and in Crown Vics.
Did I miss it, or did you not mention the make, model, and mileage?
Really glad you take the time to do things right , I wish you were closer , you could be my mechanic any day !!!
💥 WOW Ray ! . . . I Sure Wish I Lived In Your Neck Of The Woods So You Could Fix My 2000 Something Pontiac Montana Van – Definitely Needs A Parasitic Draw & Then Some Reeee- Gardless , It's A Fine Machine I Would Like To Get Running Again . . . This Video Has Given Me Hope 💖(yes it made my heart glitter) 🤪
🏆 Fantastic Post As Usual 🏆
Keep On Truckin' & Please Never Stop YOUR STYLE of ARTICULATING . . . It's A Lost Art & You My Man Have Got It Down Pat 👍
As a computer support IT person and former repair technician, I very much appreciate your diagnostic procedures and automotive work in general. 👍 Also: "Hard work is fascinating. I can watch it for hours." 😂
Mr ray it seems that we both are learning a lot from Mr O over at SMA 😉
i appreciate the knowledge in what to do when confronted a problem. But what i really admire is that you have to include your proper lighting and camera angles not to mention hand held footages that has to be made. I compared with other tubers doin the same thing. yours is clearer and more fun to watch . Wooo Hooo !!!
A little bit of everything in this video. You do good work.
Since often, as here , current draws are due to ECU's not going to sleep when they should, it's worth checking fuses for Systems with ECU's 1st , the hard part can be finding out what is keeping the ECU from going to sleep in the 1st place ( assuming no actual electrical fault)
You're a much better man than me. If I had been the one to see that bracket contacting the battery, all other diagnoses would have paused. New ECM and wiring harness before proceeding, lol.
Great job Ray finding parasitic amp draw
Love the diagnostics!!!
How many miles Ray? Was oil pressure a little low, or just the angle?
brilliant way of find where the current was going
I do not know anything about air con so i do not know how high the high side should be or how low the low side should be
and thank god you knew about the battery and should have been different and you took that bar off that could have caused a fire with the people in it thanks for the video
65 series battery in a GM…
Raymond yet another day another save with the that mides touch and those golden reaches he is the master of all mechanical matters.
Honest and trustworthy mostly I missed hearing the phone ring 😂😂😂
Ray its like u heard me comment…u used the force ….lol I have same truck 4×4 z71 and if truck sits a day or to its dead . With a good battery
Hey Ray! Thanks for all the amazing videos! You've really helped me with fixing up my old truck. Especially all the AC stuff you've done lately. You make the diagnosis process so much less scary.
What a bucket of gremlins.
my ears told me that part of the AC problem (PART) is a bade clutch fan. but i also agree to pulling the orifice out and looking at the screen on it.
i love how you cheek for power draws thanks for the idea.
Need more of this as I suck at diagnosis
When going under the car, use goggles 🥽 and a mask 😷👍😊
😊😊😊😊😊😊
I wanna see how u fix p0161 ohh
With the Snap-On meter that you have can you advise me of a meter that can do almost the same thing but does it cost $3000 that I can get off of Amazon. I am a retired mechanic from60's to 2014 so meters have gotten better from then so i don't need a Snap-On meter since i only work on my cars and truck could you give me a suggestion on one (lauch Brand or autell?)
It's a Bruce Willis battery, but it's wrong in every way 🤮 begin fixing clicks 😁😁
It's overcharged or the t/x valve (most likely) is rooted.