Intermittent symptoms are a mechanics worst nightmare. There is an old say, "you can't fix it if it isn't broke." I don't know who said it but I assume it is an old wise mechanic. 95% of the time I will not take on intermittents because they end up being time wasters and I prove it to myself yet again....
-Enjoy!
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don't like Patreon feel free to use the "PayPal Me" link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
-Enjoy!
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don't like Patreon feel free to use the "PayPal Me" link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
Gm garbage
Hi Eric; Yes, intermittent are a PAIN! As I see it there are 2 aspects to this one. The first aspect is which of the 3 circuits is causing the problem. The suggestion of using 3 fuses is a good one to localise which circuit has the problem. Better would be to use 3 amp clamps. The second aspect is what is happening at the exact time the fuse blows. The fuse (or fuses) can blow and the owner may not notice at the time and only becomes aware of the problem when he gets stopped by the police. By then, there is no correlation to what was happening exactly when the fuse blew. Years ago I was confronted with a similar intermittent problem, though it was not automotive. Being an electronics engineer I designed a little box that would monitor several channels of voltage and current. The current and voltage levels where the box would indicate an error were adjustable and if the voltage or current went above or below the set limits (this is called a "window comparator") it would light an LED for that channel which would stay on until the box was reset with a push button. It also had a beeper to let the machine operator know exactly when the error condition occurred so he could correlate the moment of error to what the machine was doing. In the automotive context this would be things like going over a bump, going through the car wash, opening a door, moving a steering column, opening the tailgate, etc…
So in this case you put the box on the passenger seat or some other convenient place in the passenger compartment with the box power leads connected to always hot power and ground. You then adjust the box to only indicate an error if the current significantly exceeds expected values for the 3 circuits involved and clamp the 3 amp clamps to the three circuits. The car will have wires all over the place but that is the price you have to pay. If you have enough channels in the box you can even measure at several points in the same circuit to try and localize the site of the fault. Tell the customer to drive it and if the box starts beeping he should note exactly what was happening at the time and then bring the car back to you in a reasonable time for further diagnosis. This isn't going to fix the problem for you but it should give you much better direction as to where the problem is.
I am retired now and the box stayed with the company but it was a pretty simple design using some op-amp ICs and a bit of digital logic. Even at today's prices for electronic parts a basic version could be built for a few tens of dollars not counting the cost of the amp clamps. I hope this stimulates some additional ideas on how to tackle this PITA Yukon.
is that an aftermarket overhead video screen?
Time to get Pine Hollow involved.
Trailer connector. The plug itself. Just some things I’ve seen.. hope this helps that guy out..
Man I hate intermittent issues. That's why I like working on the same three of four basic vehicles, then you get used to them. I had one where a Ford F59 chassis started blowing the left front turn signal fuse intermittently. I'd replace the fuse, check the harness for chafing, replaced the front LED turn signal assemblies, it'd go out and be back in a day or two. So, I'd do more testing, pull harness clips out, open up suspect areas of the harness, shake it, test drive, no issues. It'd be back just the same. Well, I had been pulling the relays to jumper the connector and test the system out with constant power, and one time gave the relay a little shake, and heard a rattle. I opened it up to find the NC contact (unused in this application) had broken free and had burn marks where it had shorted between the coil ground and relay output pins. New heavier duty relay, and no more issues.
Might need to replace that fuse holder box, they go high resistance sometimes.
When you're just the mechanic and they gave you the job to do I didn't have a choice to fix it I've told service adviser it takes time and money to find that kind on intermetant problem customer choice with no warranty on finding it
It would be bad if it's related to the turn signals and the steering wheel turning, the customer just hasn't noticed it and the turn signals weren't used during this diagnosis.
Not saying it's right, but if it works…. is it wrong?
On the fleet equipment I used to work on, I'd make us a short harness with a (fuse size) circuit breaker and 30+ amp fuse (double the OEM fuse ratting). Plug that in and let it roll. The breaker ensured the circuit would work, the fuse ensured no fires. Eventually, the arcing was evident…. even after the "whisker" has long since melted off.
Never had an issue doing this, except perhaps a bit of overheated loom, but…disclaimer…. try at own risk.
As they say in the old country, you can't fix what ain't broke!! 🙂
Watch i bet its some lamp socket that has an exposed hot and when a working bulb is put in it shorts out and blows the bulb same time it pops the fuse.. so you literally couldnt find the issue unless replace the blown bulbs.. lol
Intermittents are always a pain. I had one many years ago when my wife and I purchased a Plymouth from the in-laws that they had poured a lot of money into for a charging system that just would not work properly. It had received multiple alternators and batteries but never was solved. Apparently the gods were with me the day I tried to find the problem because, after much time spent verifying that the alternator was working properly, I just happened to see a little wisp of smoke inside the ammeter and discovered that it had a high resistance at the mounting stud. A quick trip to the auto recyclers got me a replacement and the problem was cured.
Eric, VERY common issue in these damned suburbans, the wiring harness coming out of the lift gate into the headliner rubs through all of the damned time. GM refuses to acknowledge the issue and won't post a bulletin on it.
At that point I'm thinking one of the bulbs might be intermittently shorting internally. I've seen it before on an 1157.
Great vid! Glad to hear that Toby the 10 pound shop cricket is still alive and well! 😉
Wait for it to be reliably faulty
I give you a lot of credit Eric for your patience. 1st red flag "6 months to blow fuse" 2nd red flag "would like to pick it up Saturday",, ahhh nooo. we dont run a non-profit repair shop. we need to put food on the table. can't believe anyone would criticize your effort. i do have an idea is maybe a tech school may look at it. they can afford the time to learn perhaps. TY for the videos.
The customer told you how to recreate the problem. He said to install the new harness he provided which he said immediately pops the fuse.
The radio harness also has a parking light circuit for the dimmer. I have blown my headlight fuse messing with the switch once.
Wow! Im un-subbing 😂😂😂
My 99 Ram 1500 would intermittently blow the fuse for the taillights. Usually after a heavy rain and only after hitting a bump; no amount of jiggling harnesses could duplicate the problem. After a year of carrying around extra relays I found the problem…spare tire would slide a bit, after water traveled above it after a heavy rain, wearing out the harness above it.
IF the customer really wanted the intermitent short fixed you could install 3 differant temperary inline smaller fuses on the output of each of the light circuits coming out of the fuse box. Then give it back to them and let them drive it.That way when one of the fuses blows you are that closer in pinpointing the location of the short by seeing whitch fuse blows .
did you check the fuse box itself … for crusties
Im maintenance electrician in a steel mill the calls of it only happens sometimes are the worst. Usually end up making it look like you work on it for about ten minutes then tell them to call back when it breaks cause nothing is harder to find than a problem that doesn't exist currently. I did however have an issue like this with my superduty turn signal and it ended up being the steering column shaft rubbed a harness under the dash took me months to stumble upon that issue.
I just finished fixing the same exact identical issue to my mother's 2001 GMC Sierra 1500. Fuse kept blowing on the left side front and rear marker and turn signal lights. After days of looking, I noticed the fuse would blow whenever I slammed the driver's door. I found a wire had chaffed and shorted on a metal guard/plate under the steering column. My mother's truck has a column turn signal lever. The shorted wire was from the turn signal lever running/chaffing on the edge of the metal guard/plate underneath where the column meets the dashboard. I suggest looking there!
A problem might be that some light bulbs are at different W. The one with higher W are going to last but they draw much. I might say a bunch of stupid things
How about the grounds . Small wires and cheep wires.
Need to change your sign outside, unless Napa finally is sponsoring
Any shade tree mechanic knows how to fix this, keep putting in the next higher amp fuse until it quits blowing fuses. (Or melts/ burns up the whole harness) Although I'm not sure it's the recommended method!
Experience taught me early on as an electronic repairman, I do not attempt to repair an intermittent problem that is currently working okay. You can't fix what's not broke unless it's visually obvious.
Customers don't want to hear this but most understand after an explanation.
OMG please take some carb spray and kill that damn cricket in your shop!!
How is time wasted if you charge a diagnostic fee?
I hope you're charging that cricket rent.
Could the tailgate lift cylinder be causing some flex or pressure on the tail lamp assembly or harness causing the short?
The sad part is.. you didnt find it this time or do it this time..IE "If I can do it, you can do it…?? " you blaming a hair wire for your misdiagnoses is shameful at best!.
More over, to admit you cannot diagnose an intermittent issue is your explanation?! seriously?.. Your channel is tracking down electrical issues.. . and now its beyond your explanation !? Give me and your followers a F'n break!
Maybe the issue is a poor fuse connection.. or more importantly, its a poor repairman excuse to not want to find the problem.??
so disappointed!
Intermittent issues are the future of problems… Im sorry, you lost me on this episode.
What you should have said.. " If I cant do it.. maybe you can do it … "
FAVORITE MACHANIC AND ALL WE GOT WAS CRICKETS…..
crickets back……
I had 1985 Cutlass that went through like 5 alternators could not figure it out then one day after I replaced yet another alternator I was standing there and leaned over put my hands on the top of the front body panel and heard the idle drop and could tell the alternator was pulling massive current got to looking more closely and the main charge wire had gotten pinched between the two body panels I loosened a bolt pulled the wire out you could see it had been pinched just enough to where there was some insulation missing causing a sporadic short. Had I not know where to look I would have never found it. Small piece of tape to cover the now exposed wire and car never had another problem with the alternator again.. Point being had I not just leaned on the right part who knows when that would have been found it was pure luck I finally found it..
I had a similar issue. I think it was the dimmer on the instrument panel lights. It was a roller resistor but sometimes went short. Chased it for a while.
I hear you bud! The majority of problems resulting in anything a man has made usually stems back to electrical. I’ve learned that in aviation Tech school. It’s hard to find the problem sometimes. A friend of mine has an early 2000s Ford expedition, passenger low beam has got no power coming to that harness. Somebody’s been in there monkeying around before, the wire is dead. So the only thing I can do for her is trace that wire all the way back and find that there’s a break in it somewhere. Poor lady has to drive around with her highbeams on! Lol. Nothing new, everybody does that these days anyway, bunch of morons. But I’m gonna trace that wire and find it for her. Definitely don’t want to jump off the driver side low beam to feed the passenger side. That’s not the right way to do it. Electrical issues are simply just a pain anyway sometimes. I like making my own custom harnesses for my old hot rod mustang but when factory stuff goes bad it’s a nightmare!
In this case your closing line should be: “If I can’t fix it, you can’t fix it”. LOL
Hello Eric I feel your pain and your customers disappointment. Hard to fi d a problem when it is playing g hide and seek. Great real life video.
I thought customer wrote that the new harness installed causes instant blown fuse. So he put the intermittent faulty harness back in. Maybe it would have made it a current fault….and easy fix. But I'm Just an Ambulance Driver
I had a similar issue on a Dodge Ram. The bulbs were being shorted by condensation accumulation on the bulb holder. Junkyard replacement fixed the bulb and fuse burning out.
Your mustache is darker than your beard. Did you use Just For Men on that stash?
Eric, in the "and he writes" section, you read that the problem was immediate with the new harness, but intermittent with the old. Did you swap harnesses to see if you got an immediate issue? or did you miss-read the letter?
We ended up junking my sister-in-law's 1995 Ford Taurus for a stupid reason.
The AC never worked on it, but the compressor bearing failed. Being that you could only get a compressor reman, and can't purchase one from the junkyard, the cost of repair was more than the car was worth. Even though it ran great.
The wires to the trailer plug harness would carry current for those same bulbs. Trailer plug harnesses get beat to hell from road rash, salty winter roads, etc.
Wouldnt hurt to give them a gander.
It's the trailer hitch socket is grounding when wet ….salt from road…green fuzzy traces to ground.
My comment isn't gonna make you feel any better, but this vid made MEEEEE (It's all about MEEEEE!! 🤣) feel a bit better! I always blamed my lack of skill for not being able to find issues like this, but you're right – if it ain't broke, how the heck can ya fix it?? Like finding a needle in a haystack with 100, 000 miles of wiring in modern vehicles. I've got MANY intermittents this year alone! It was weighing on my confidence! Was thinking maybe I should just hang it up since I have zero patience for stuff like this, and I get so mad! I appreciate you showing this one, since I just realized it's NOT just me!
I had a little bit of a tough one this week. That blue Saturn from my no-crank vid 3 years back was back in here AGAIN (4th time in 6 months – different issue every time! Last was a failed neutral safety switch … then a failed replacement! Took 3 tries to get a good one – NAPA saved the day there). Owner said it crapped out in an intersection on a upper 80° day, and she had to get pushed by a couple fellas into a parking lot. Hooked up my trailer and headed out on the mean streets of MA to retrieve it. Thing fires right up and ran MINT! Didn't even have to use the winch! SWEEET! Big time saver right there, and I desperately needed that since rush hour was fast approaching, and I was in the THICK of it. Got home, immediately got her in the air running with the scan tool on. Idle was a little high at first, and fuel trims were going crazy negative, so I'm thinking MAP sensor (No MAF), a leak there, or a failing o2. I watched, and watched and watched. Other than negative trims (-20 total, varying), nothing jumped out at me. Sprayed acetone into a vacuum line and watched both o2's go full rich and stalled it. Fired her back up and left the line detached, and the went positive while o2's dropped flat. Disconnected the EVAP purge line from the intake & blocked the vac leak there – zero change in trims. HMMM!! Ran out of ideas! drove it up and down my street several times – excellent power, idle, everything – there's no problem to fix! Picked it up the next day letting it idle for a LONG time with no changes. Had to jump on something else that week and put it on the back burner.
So today, I figured I'd take it to my dad's place about 40 miles out. Hooked up the scan tool and headed out. Still negative and varying trims. Saw almost -30 total at one point, but then it would instantly drop to -14. Excellent power, excellent idle, perfect cruise! WTH!! And THEN … after driving 7/8ths of the way there, I let off the gas to enter an off ramp with a sharp turn, and felt the transmission do a strange downshift – knew something was now happening. Hit the gas and had ZERO power! Check engine light blinking! Got a misfire – sweeet! Fuel trims went 50% positive short term. Had a bit of an, "Oh CRAP, maybe this thing ain't gonna make it" moment. Got to dad's – I had switched to misfire live data when I got on his street (SHHH!) and saw #'s 2 & 3 counting up like crazy. Once I got there I tried to yank those 2 plug wires. WTH? Am I getting THAT weak??? OH! There's 2 stupid metal bars across both pairs holding them in place!! Had to shut it down, run to dad's basement for some tools. Everything is everywhere, nothing put back (Role reversal with age, lol) … had to make 2 trips to the basement which was a long walk from the car, FINALLY found a friggin 10mm with an extension so I could reach the stupid nuts holding the bars in place. Got the bars off. Fired her back up, removed 2 & 3 and heard NOTHING in the holes! Removed 1, then 4, and heard the crack of the spark echoing in each hole. Sweet! Bad coil or bad ignitor (Which was replaced by another shop barely 3 years ago). Both 2 & 3 share a coil. Glad I found the issue!
Driving back home on 2 cylinders was fun – thought the damned thing was gonna burst into flames! Couldn't reach the injectors to unplug them – buried under the intake against the firewall. Had to turn off the A/C and take backroads, then it was happier. Cat was probably glowing! Was already damaged from prior dead misses years ago (Been throwing a 0420 forever), so the damage was already done. Going to check all that out on Tuesday when I get back at it. Car is age-exempt here, so maybe there will be an incident with a pipe and hammer ….. 😉
I guess everybody has a cricket in the shop today? Watch Wes Work had a cricket too.
"And just remember viewers, if I CAN'T do it, YOU CAN'T do it either" 🙂SMA is the best!
Some times the magic works… Sometimes it doesn't. But that cricket in the beginning was annoying af!!!
you should teach that Cricket some manners, keeps trying to overtalk you in the video
customer will need to do some simple troubleshooting. Remove one light bulb at a time, until it doesnt blow the fuse. Thats not practical at all for Eric, but it is probably the only real solution, short of ripping the whole vehicle apart looking for the chaffed wire.
What’s the website do you use for the wiring diagrams?
electrical problems that are intermittent are almost impossible to fix, they never seem to want to act up when trouble shoot.
Never easy to accept, my 93 Ram diesel occasionally blew fuse, never found smoking gun, lost key, got used ignition switch and installed, BAM problem solved!
If it was your vehicle you would have found the problem eventually but just like life, it’s a balancing act. Now if you could tell me why I’m on my second cracked 440 block you could redeem yourself😂
Been there Done that…!!
Hiya Eric
I had a gremlin many many years ago on a 77 Pontiac Ventura the damn thing wouldn't charge after of course throwing the parts canon at it still nothing and guess what it was it was the courtesy light inside replace that because I had a bulb and I'll be damned if the damn card didn't start charging what's up with that GM lol
I had a 1997 Chevy Cavalier that would randomly stall and start back up 10 minutes later. It happened several times so I brought it into a shop. Luckily the problem happened to them the moment they drove it. Turned out to be a couple wires from the ECM were chafed from rubbing on a piece of broken plastic and sometimes touched each other.
put in a 20 amp fuse and it will burn out the hair wire and still protect the main wire
I had the same problem and I found out it was a Honda Accord The relay for the air conditioning Had shorted Out She brought it to 5 mechanics and I found it But it took a lot of time
I had a similar problem with failed brake lights, which it turns out was caused by a blown fuse that also fed interior and door courtesy lamps. I futzed with it for about half a year, replacing the fuse maybe once a week on average. Eventually I put a self-resetting breaker in that position and had no more trouble for a few months. The affected lights were out again, and when I went to pull the self-resetting breaker it seared my fingertips… the breaker was welded closed. With a solid short, I spent most of a weekend hunting it down. I had all the seats and carpet out of the car, and I forget what else, when I isolated the problem to the wire that fed the front passenger door courtesy light. Taking the panel off it I found the wire had been banging against a sharp edge and finally welded itself on. The failed self-resetting breaker had created a fire hazard.
The moral of the story is Eric O made the right decision: the odds of finding the culprit in a sane amount of time is virtually zero. As much of a disappointment as it is, feeding it fuses is about the best the owner can do.
The good old " Power T" on the tailgate! Found the problem! It's the Tennessee volunteers football symbol, it only plays well when it wants to! Vol fan for 50 years! Drop the power t and watch it all work!
Yuck. I hate intermittent problems! And they NEVER happen when the mechanic is looking. 😞
Can't fix it if its not broke…. wanna borrow my hammer?
I had intermittent problems for decades. I found out the problem was known as Microsoft Windows.
I had a burned out bulb cause this once. when the filament went out, it let the 2 larger leads bounce together occasionally. took FOREVER to figure out. I kept that bulb on my bench for years just to remind me.
Another win for GM's Electrical Engineers!!! "We got 'em again, boys!" And they just keep buying our junk.
Could it be something with the automatic light sensor circuit that turns the lights on at dusk ?
Wondering if the different contacts from the breaker in the fuse box moved something or made better contact?
I’ve only used the lab scope function on the o-scope, it was cool seeing the ammeter being used
My biggest nightmare was trying to make repairs on a 1975 Fiat 124 Sport
Coupe that had been stolen that had no ignition switch and the junk yard had
wired it every way but loose! No intrumentation, wires burning up, fuel guage
inop, burnt dash, no tach along with guages going ape chit and an oil pump cast
aluminum oil sump stem that completely broken off wth a dented oil pan and
wow, it took a month of sundays to get that mess corrected but it all worked out!
@Eric, Did someone replace a bulb that wasn't the right one?? I just find it
to be strange to have that many lights out at one time is all!
This is my SWAG at it (Scientific Wild A$$ Guess). I saw Tennessee plates so I presume this is a new member to the area or military person home on leave so traditional salt corrosion is not super likely. What I would be hazarding a guess on is that the there is something that was damaged by GM when the truck was manufactured IE wires that had the insulation damaged when the harness was installed. And now something has rubbed in the harness to the point it's causing a short at times. Where??? Your guess is as good as any of ours. What I suspect is going to happen is this will become more frequent as the wire continues to rub through. Not being able to replicate the problem though is the real issue here. Given the diagram you pulled up it's possible the issue is in the backup light portion of the circuit. Hope you figure it out. It will be interesting if you do.
My local shop had a sign hanging in the office. $75/hr labor….$150/hr if you tried to fix it yourself first.
I wonder if it blows fuse on rainy days or with more moisture in the air. I had an 2009 silverdo and the fusebox printed relays would always burnout. Then third brake light wouldn't work or right turn signal when hooked up to trailer jack. Figured out that a couple of the body control modules were bad. I didn't know how to remove body control modules or if they had to be programed. So had my mechanic do that plus I had all the schematics for my vin. Told him what I had found and to not take my word for it if it was something else. I'm an industrial electrician but working on cars is totally different. I'm not a wiz by no means at that
That damn cricket 🦗
news to me….turning down intermittent problems..i would never let you come near my vehicles and its getting very close to unsub time….what else do you refuse to look at besides euro cars. your rep is somewhat paler.
Sound quality is great now, thanks!
I had one on a pickup. Hand wash it and the fuse for the dome light/bed light would blow. Easy right, had to be the light. Open it up, dry. Drive in the pouring rain, snow never blew. Automatic Car wash never blew. Finally checked the door switches, one had a boot with a crack in it and was wet. Replaced the boot and it never happened again.
GD cricket!
What about the bulbs? I once was chasing around an.issue with a customer stating hot wires, blown fuses. It turned out he installed higher wattage bulbs
I had an issue where a fuse would blow randomly to rear light circuits on a car, and it took a few months of them coming back after it had blown the fuse a few times to finally find the issue. The customer was really good about it over the time frame too, knowing it was something that was very intermittent and it could not be easily duplicated. The problem was finally traced to the flat ribbon section of harness that passes alongside the rear seats lower frame. A sharp piece of stray spot weld flash on a bracket would cut down into the harness only when someone sat in the rear seat on that side.
a problem like this was traced to a wire screwed tight below a washer and then it would short just whenever
Where do get those wiring schematics? I could have used stuff like that in my younger years.
Also. How about some South Main Auto Tee's. With printed fake grease stains… or other. (with pocket)
Best thing I can say for this customer is to get a reset-able fuse replacement. At least they can quickly fix the lights, and not worry about carrying around extra fusses. The cost might also come out cheaper if this is going on for awhile also.
Why didn’t you put the new harness on so it would blow fuse ?
It's an American Car – that's the customer's problem.
I have no idea why people buy USA cars and then complain when they break.
If you can’t fix it, who can?
If I think about a test…what is the expected outcome.
Gotta remember that when I next pull out my set of "paperweights" wrenches
Didn’t he say in the note that with the new harness the fuse blew every time? Also does it have a trailer hitch? Maybe it has to do with trailer harness wiring?
Yes Eric it’s like arthritis they can’t find a qure . But they keep looking . Me I rub hand sanitizer on in an emergency. But it keeps coming back.
Check the light sockets themselves.