I show a quick tip on removing the stubborn rear bearing on this 2013 Ford Explorer. This Process can be used on many different vehicles. -Enjoy!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don't like Patreon feel free to use the "PayPal Me" link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
Great tip, I appreciate it.
Pay attention ford lover’s! Lol
Genius!
Eric you always know how to use leverage and pressure to your advantage. Awesome tips
I couldn’t deal with all that rust and corrosion. You guys must spend forever drilling out broken bolts and studs. We don’t do the salty roads thing here in Oz. There’s gotta be a more vehicle friendly solution.
Yep somthings just don't matter if it's in the way ..get rid of it. An I was complaining doin front wheel bearings in 4×4 Ford, but Dang thts somthin else. Good stuff Man
You never cease to amaze me my friend !!!
Good job with safety for yourself.
And two bolts, as well? Just thought id add this. But, at the end you do it anyway? That’s life! Ha. Well done, good post!
Why don’t you remove two wheel studs? Then you wouldn’t have to keep moving the bolt?
Not sure how this vehicle is setup but if you take that backing plate off, you can put a socket extension between the hub and something solid on the vehicle then get in and turn the wheel. I used to do that on my xj. Let the power steering do the work.
I just replaced the front driver side and I used a 12ton press…bent the press getting that mofo apart. The bolt method you used in this viideo did not work for me. I left it in the press for 30 mins under pressure…then started hitting with a 3lb hammer before it came apart all at once very loudly!! Lol
Today I had an aluminum rim that was stuck on the front driver's side of my my '90 camaro…after several failed attempts to motivate it to come off, I loosely put the lug nuts back on, I turned the wheel to the right, stuck a block of wood between the rim and the lower control arm, started the car, held the brakes and turned to the left, and off it came.
The only way. Have videos from the dealership when we first found out these were a problem with 2 guys on big slide hammers not able to even start them loose. The bolt trick makes easy work of it.
That's an excellent tip, here's another, before fitting the new bearing place in the Freezer overnight, wear gloves!
I stopped watching when they were using air hammers with no hearing protection. Common guys.
Good stuff man! Longer thread and perhaps another bolt would do great justice for whenever I need to attempt this job
Genius! Your vids have helped me out on more then one occasion. Thanks for posting this!
Thanks for sharing.
Iwas thinking if you had the Mrs helping or your mate, if you did both sides together she might just come right off.
Great advice "Just remember if I can do it you can do it" 😎👍
"Snap on off out of here" 😂 I always enjoy your sense of humor. It makes watching your videos that much more enjoyable.
Gotta buy a Air Chisel and a square spear chisel.
This way you may bend hub by holding that nut behind you are effectively squeezing it. Why not use normal wheel hub removal tool?
This is the only video that i found on the internet that actually shows something that works EFFORTLESSLY. THANK YOU!
Hmmm. Hoping to try this method tomorrow AM to drive out my rear wheel hub on my Y2K Voyager. It snapped a couple wheel studs off because my state uses a ridiculous amount of liquid road de-icer every winter. Just getting the brake drum off defeated numerous YT mechanic tricks. No hole in the middle to drive it off. Banged on it for hours in every conceivable spot at every available angle. Heated it to smoking with an acetylene torch while it was tensioned with a scissor jack and chain bolted to some 3 jaw gear puller jaws (I actually managed to get this so tight it destroyed my scissor jack. Now I gotta find a new one. 🙁 If you do this, go buy a sacrificial one from the junkyard for $5 and use that, and not the one from your actual vehicle. Derp.) and THEN I banged on it with a hammer some more. Walked away and mowed the lawn and came back and hammered some more. Nothing. Soaked in PB B'laster every day for a week. Finally, FINALLY got that F'er off with an Astro Pneumatic 78830 Heavy Duty Drum and Rotor Puller Tool. Yanked that damn thing right off. I will say you do need a long clamp to pinch the jaws tight around the drum because it popped off on the first attempt when I didn't have the clamp in the right spot.
Used this trick yesterday for my first ever wheel bearing replacement. Worked great! Things I had trouble with…
1. Passenger rear bearing – the back bottom bolt for the bearing was difficult to get to for what I had.
2. Didn't get grade 8 bolts from the start for this. Chewed through the crap ones in about 5 seconds. Couldn't back it out as the treads stripped. Had to cut it off.
3. I used a larger nut as a spacer when I bottom out the bolt. Worked great.
4. The bearing was so seized in there I started to chew through the grade 8 bolts as well.
5. Took about 5 hours…complete newbie.
6. Lastly and most surprising…I was able to do it with dropping only 1 F bomb. This was from habit and not aggravation.
Managed it all with no air hammer. Just and impact, grinder, and hand tools.
Thanks for the life saving post!!!
"Arched Enemy"! Come on, you're one of my favorite guys! WTF
So I bought 1/2” bolts only to find out they are too thick. Guess I’ll try 3/8”
Nice! Works great. Thanks for the tip!
What if you stick a piece of wood or tire rubber in between there so that 1- less mark but also 2- more room to push if you’re running out of thread? Haven’t actually tried just a thought.
John 3:16
For God so loved the world that he gave his only begotten Son that whosoever believeth in Him shall not perish but have everlasting life.
I replaced the entire knuckle on my first. Trying this on my second. F you Ford
Cool tech tip beats putting longer bolts on the bearing mount threads and using an air hammer. Since space is an issue. USed the longer bolt trick on solid axle sealed hub bearings on dodges and Jeeps.
Do you have a video of reassembly tricks?…. Great piece of work here folks!
This looks to be about an 8 Motherfxxxxx job on a scale of 0 to 10, which how I rate difficulty in my carpentry work.
I welded a nut to the backside of the hub when I did mine just eliminated having to hold the wrench.
i just did the same thing on a 2011 tarus and if you cut 2 studs and use 2 bolts at the same time works way better 10 mins done .
Bad angle
Can you tell me how to remove this rear arm from the rear knuckle after the bolt is out on a 2005 equinox AWD it’s stuck on the knuckle
Sir, you stamped an “8” on the knuckle without wanting to. 🙂
Interesting take on this job, indeed. I usually air-hammer some spare bolts screwed into the bearing from behind with those bolts screwed not all the way in. So far, never had to struggle much this way, but I have to keep a decent stash of various bolts. I admit, that your method will work when there is not enough access from behind. I would put some flat plate or washer under the bolt to minimize damage though. Sure, no one will ever see it, but still…
Sliding hammers with hub attachments are rather useless for this job
wtf I have been a technician for over 17 years I would never do this. Get yourself a otc hub tamer and get your life together. Come on who needs 2 technicians for one wheel bearing
My car uses lug bolts, so I was lucky to already have holes in the wheel bearing hub. Just used a harbor freight brake caliper piston tool, and removed all the parts to the tool except for the nut to hold it on the inside part of the hub. Just used a set of plyers, and a wrench for the nut, and it broke it free in minutes. I spent hours beforehand soaking it in penetrating fluid, torching it, and whacking it with a mallet.
Thanks I have to do two of these. I should be able to use nut and bolt trick without air hammers .
Clever procedure. I just had to comment though on how many high mileage vehicles you seem to get.
Could put a piece of thick metal under the bolt to prevent the little marks I don't see a problem with doing it that way though, it's not like wheel hubs have a gasket.
If there is a worry about the backing plate being dimpled then one can always configure some kind of metal "sock" with larger contact area than the bolt.
Welcome to our world of corrosion in the UK on cars
We MIGHT be working on something up this alley