In this video I take you through the process of replacing U-Joints in an aluminium driveshaft out of an older Chevrolet G-20 van. This one had a little damage on the end of it making it a tad difficult. -Enjoy!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don't like Patreon feel free to use the "PayPal Me" link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
try arm and hammer essentials deodorant. i used to use the one that rips your pit hairs out, this one is a gel and leaves your hair in.
i usually use vice to hold opposed cross & hammer yoke to drive caps up, use socket or ball joint press on alum side.
Good job wear eye protection next time.
I’m sure we all want to continue to see your videos
Been there, done that, bought the driveshaft! 🤣👍
Hey Eric, I really appreciate this. My '67 LS-D200 Sweptline now has a 5.3l/4l60e with "aluminium" driveshaft running to the original Spicer rear. Rear u-joint blew it's caps, luckily not the 2 that go through the driveshaft, otherwise it'd be toast. This video answered a few questions that were pinging about in my brain compartment. Thanks as always!
thanks for the help. the 2×4 worked great. I put my ujoints in the freezer so after the shaft and yoke were cleaned up assembly went really smooth with my vice.
Use a ball joint press perfect size
You do a great job Butt , If you are going to make all that money ,You should do it in a speedo . You know give them their monies worth . lol
Erie i like the way you try to repair things at lease you try your best to get the job done some how. And not just stand around with a finger in your ass. Even it you had to get another drive shaft you can say you tried your best that means alot to customers . Good job anyway keep up the good jobs and those videos.
That's the nice thing about working with U-joints that have the 'internal' C-clips; no cleaning of old grooves…..
y u beatin on em with a hammer?? lol :p
I always tell my boss I have my safety eyelids on.
Good job with an Old Part . Eric you took the time to make it right !
Damn aluminum for driveshafts.
Take it to a driveshaft shop that has a new end welded on and balanced.
A brake Cylinder hone will do the cleaning too!
Awesome videos man your doing an excellent job on your customers vehicle if I'm ever in the NY area I definitely swing by your shop. 👍
I've always used a balljoint kit for u joints. Hope you aint gotta get out the dremel and cut a new groove. Had to do that a few times. Sat on a concrete floor with a socket and a hammer when I did my first ujoints. Tell you missus I ended up at the Duke eye center even though I had safety glasses and a cap on….rust from cutting a muffler off with air chisel three days later. Alum driveshaft was sure a stupid move by chevy
When I’m doing this after driving one cap on I then insert a snap ring. When you put in the opposite side your opposite side is already in place. Unless the snap ring groove is damaged of course.
I bet a tow truck driver beat the drive shaft off the rear end so he could drag the vehicle is what caused the damage at the end of the shaft.
Thanks for the video. I'll be replacing the front u-joint on my '94 Chevy C1500 with aluminum driveshaft. The original non-greasable u-joint made it to 296K.
A great job as far as I am concerned. No one listens anyway !!
Torch off the steel end u-joint, then the heat usually allows the caps to move pretty easily
You worked that shaft like a pro!
Bob Ross died of cancer from breathing paint thinner fumes!!!
I'm sure you breathing all that brake cleaner you use is gonna give ya some form of Cancer!!
If I have a hard time getting u joints out I get out the grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the cross
Someone already commented this… you like to make noise!! For sure! I know this, because… I do too… love hammering on my empty table, stuff bouncing all over, echoing in my shop.. LOL
If you have to beat that thing in , it's not going anywhere
Glue it in with some Loctite don't worry about those clips
Bro ,, just on one U-joint you worked your ass off ,, now another?
Sorry bro I got to give you a thumbs down on this one
Man I watched you get that U-joint out I was tired you made that work and you didn't have to
Always technology we don't have a better unit than a U-joint
Quit playing with that thing
Some heat gets a torch out make some smoke
It's cool when my idea of a repair and yours happens at the same time…..The Dremel tool comes through again for the little stuff repair!
Imma use that block of wood tip in about ten min. Thanks man I was cruising the tube looking for good ideas on ujoint replacement after I rebuilt my trans and that's all I got left to do before cruising. Thanks
Yeah duh-walt. I take her for long walks through junk. She loves me even though I put her through hell.
A ball type wheel cylinder hone also cleans up the U-joint bores nicely.
aluminum driveshaft?
Your brother probably has a ujointpress.
Works wonders
Arre you going to send out that damage drive shaft to a customer do you trust it ? And the right tool to do the work you don't beat on aluminum drive shafts
Many years ago, probably 30-35 years, had to replace the u-joints on a Caddy. Factory joints do not use cir-clips they put them together with a type of epoxy cement. Steel driveshaft. To get them apart you had to use a torch and heat them to the point when the epoxy blows out like a small cannon shot. New u-joints used the cir-clips. If anyone runs into this situation, Make sure to use a Face Shield, that hot epoxy shoots out like a fire hose
When you installed the U Joint cross you didn't show which bearing goes 'UP'.
Hi, Eric. I am enjoying your old vids. The re-groove with the Dremel was brilliant. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!
after you had the first cap off of the damaged end of the shaft and the joint wouldn't come out without the other cap being pushed back thru you could have cut 1 end of the joint off with a cut off wheel on a grinder and taken it out that way…then take the cap out by pushing it thru the center…been there done that….you are good at what you do
So do you always use the British pronunciation of Aluminum, or is that like a Honder? I see you spelled it the British way; where did you pick that up?
Wife walks in and says does he have any bigger hammers? Lol
liquid wrench the best. been around since i was helping my dad on his old jeep. i'm 73. project farm likes it also. great vid. love your show
Wow 😮 you saved that one. But I would tell the customer that they should expect to buy a new driveshaft for the next go around.
I used to have my driveshafts rebuilt when I had my dump truck but they were steel and they could weld a new end on them.