In this video we have a look at at a 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe that is having problems with the rear power door locks. We show how to tell if you have a wiring issue, relay, fuse, contact plate or just a simple bad door lock actuator. --Enjoy
Interested in stuff seen in the videos or the tools and toys Eric O. likes and uses? Check out the S.M.A. "A-Store" and help support the channel! : http://astore.amazon.com/httpswwwy0837-20
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
THANKS A MILLION!!
--Eric O.
WANT AN "SMA" STICKER OF YOUR OWN!?!
Simply send and E-mail to SMAstickers @outlook.com including: your shipping address and e-mail address in the text, I in turn will send you a paypal invoice for $5 each USA or $6 each international. Let me know how many you want and as soon as the paypal invoice is paid I will ship them out ASAP! Thanks for your support of our channel!!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
Interested in stuff seen in the videos or the tools and toys Eric O. likes and uses? Check out the S.M.A. "A-Store" and help support the channel! : http://astore.amazon.com/httpswwwy0837-20
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
THANKS A MILLION!!
--Eric O.
WANT AN "SMA" STICKER OF YOUR OWN!?!
Simply send and E-mail to SMAstickers @outlook.com including: your shipping address and e-mail address in the text, I in turn will send you a paypal invoice for $5 each USA or $6 each international. Let me know how many you want and as soon as the paypal invoice is paid I will ship them out ASAP! Thanks for your support of our channel!!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
1995 Chevy Tahoe back double doors won't unlock
I've probably replaced over 50 of the actuators in 94' to 99' Silverado's, Sieras, and Yukon's, I have drilled every one of them, takes about five minutes, never ever have scratched the paint, it is a whole lot easier to gouge the paint with those high-speed grinders. But to each his own. But as for the diagnosis, you have got to be one of the best men I have ever seen to logically diagnose a problem no matter what brand or make vehicle. You are sorta like Yoda, Umm Help You I will…All kidding aside, you are like Yoda in that you obviously have worked on vehicles a LONG TIME! You have a vast amount of knowledge of the inner workings of electrical from wiring harnesses to ECM's/PCM's, Just my kinda guy!
I have a 2000 Tahoe LT Barn Doors 5.3
Great vid., dude, but rivets are drilled out for easy removal. Like your stuff.
Hello. What is the proper name for the contacts and pins for the barn doors. Or if that’s the name. I’ve been trying to find replacement ones and nothing comes up. Thanks!
Is that your wife’s hammer you are using. Hahah
Do you know any videos showing how to replace the back door seals on a 1996 chevy Tahoe ?
I would have drilled the rivets out.
They have a robot on the line that presses the moisture barrier to the door frame.
Wa La…… one bonus point for you…. ok……………. 2 points…
J.s its alot easier to not hit the paint when you drill out the center.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Forgot to ask why you didn't bend the actuator rod to avoid slippage
my barn doors have the same problem, 99 Tahoe as well.
I don't really use it much and it still locks/unlocks with the key so i'm not bothered much by it.
Impressed the Tahoe looks so good compared to mine when theyre the same age.
We see an awful lot of Chevy Tahoe's in your shop
I found that drilling just enough of the rivet head. And then chisel it, works good. Just the tip of the drill. At least it works for me.
Slice the glue for the plastic rain shield with a razor blade it will go back on and seal like new.
You are grinding on an aluminum rivet….that's a no-no. Knock the steel mandrel out of the rivet with a pin punch, then drill the rivet heads off. Faster, cleaner, no paint damage. If they spin, hold the drill bit at about a 10 degree angle. They'll still spin, but the bit WILL remove the heads. Love your vids.
hopefully, you can tell us where to locate the driver's side door lock relay for the same vehicle we have a 2000 Chevy Tahoe Z71we love it but so many problems with door locks. thanks, cheers from california
man, you are a genius. congrats!!
Why didn’t you just drill the rivets out ?
Hi to you can you give me a hint on 1998 Toyota Camry station wagon here in nz all 5 locks open but will not lock frustrating tested all locks one by one all work electrical with a 12v power supply by reversing polarity lock and unlock work perfect but with inside dash switch and key will not lock cheers mike.
Whoa! was that Diagnose Dan at 1.25 ?
I got a 96 suburban with hatch and door that wont open can u help me out
Where do you get your wiring diagrams from
It's made in Mexico you'll have to end up doing it twice anyways because nothing good comes from Mexico, quality control there is worse than Chrysler almost.
Drilling out the rivets works much better despite what you said.
Hey Erico whats the type of screw/bolt driver your using ?
Thats probably a $200 job there
You should have offered to fix the door stop mechanism.
Yeah, typical engineers. You'd think the door locks workings could be programmed (or wired) so that only the driver's door vs. the rest of the locks would open with the keyfob. Why? Most of the time it's the driver's door that is used so the other doors are just unlocking for no reason in most cases. You'd think they'd have a button on the keyfob for one door and another for all doors or a press and hold for all doors or similar design. I know that Jeep computers can be programmed to respond to the keyfob with all doors or just the drivers door. It save on wear and tear on at least 4 other actuators in the least.
Those contact plates on the Tahoe are a great idea to prevent wire fatigue. Maybe now and then, a very thin coat of die-electric grease will prevent the green crusties from forming since those contact plates are in the water gutter. Nice fix. They do make those rivet drill bits and even though the exterior "washer" does spin, the core is released from the interior crush sleeve most of the time. Maybe opt for the drill first and if no luck the chisel second. Either method works although the chances for paint damage is most likely with the chisel and die grinder. Never really understood the reason of rivet fastening method vs. a threaded fastener for regulators and these solenoid mounts other than the assembly advantages but not for the service advantages.
I always drill the ends off and punch them out.
Heat gun will make water seal easier to remove. Maybe I've been lucky, but I always drill the rivits out. Only had a few that spun. I used to replace marker lights on van bodies. Us a punch to knock the pin out first then drill. Thanks and keep up the good work. Big hello yes on air riviter.
I have an new actuator
Would this be the same part number for a 2001 suburban?
Hey there Mr. O. Newer viewer here. Just ran across this video and had to let u know this. I also have a 99 Tahoe and it has the same problem so I think this should help a lot. But what I found extremely funny is when u said this one had about 250,000 and had motor and trans swaps. My Tahoe has 450,000 and has the 5.7L Vortec and the trans that came in it. Most people don't believe me when I tell em that. It was my dads and I got it when he past away in 2010. So its been with the family for most of its life. It has mostly all of its factory equipment so both he and I have had to do very little repairs to it. It has been recked a couple time and it looks like hammered hell but I wouldn't trade it for anything. Well maybe a great 1964 & 1/2 Mustang. My dream car. Maybe I can send u a picture of my Tahoe just for shats and grins. LOL. Anyway, keep up all the good advice and videos.. BTW, we also have a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica with the 3.5L V6 that I got for my wife for Christmas and BOY is she not happy. I am having a big problem getting it to run. Cranks but won,t start up. I have watched many videos but no dice. It also dose not get gas from the tank to motor. Had a bad timing belt and I changed it and water pump and bearings. Anywho, I would love to see u do a video or maybe a little series of videos on the Chrysler Pacifica. Thanks again, and I WILL KEEP WATCHING.
The time you taking those rivets I could take 20 out with a drill. Please use a drill and bit next time.
The door isn't a jar it's a door. 😉 LOL
Eric awesome job i was happy you saved the plastic barrrier. When i went to the dealer they ripped plastic barrier How i found out the truck was a bit noiser When barrier was placed in It is there for a reason Good job Glad you do honest and professional work
Drilling the rivets works fine if you use the right size drill and technique. I've done hundreds of window regulators that way.. very minor amt of chiseling, if at all.
Q👽
Drill out any way.
Youtube
Hi!
Great fix Eric O 👍🏻
You have the patience of a saint. I would've gotten my circular saw and cut the entire rear door – from the outside – to get to that actuator. I hate rivets 🙂 Love your videos!!!
At least it no made in china?
Great Video!
Thank you!
You forgot to put the connection between the door and frame before you tested the first time
Did you glue back the vapor plastic?