In this video you get to come along and watch as I replace the fuel "module" (aka: fuel pump) in this 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4. Last week I took a look at this vehicle for the customer to diagnose the EVAP leak and found it to be leaking from the top of the fuel module (due to rust, go figure..) Lets get started!
Wanna see another video on this truck?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLXYu-a8APU
Ford Flex Video I mentioned: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4HV3Wd9M9w
Part used in video : ACDelco MU1853 GM Original Equipment Fuel Pump and Level Sensor Module with Seal
OEM # 19206535
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
Wanna see another video on this truck?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLXYu-a8APU
Ford Flex Video I mentioned: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4HV3Wd9M9w
Part used in video : ACDelco MU1853 GM Original Equipment Fuel Pump and Level Sensor Module with Seal
OEM # 19206535
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
Great video thanks, I replace the fuel pump on my older GMC 05 several years ago but a bit less work than you did. I cut a trap hole in the floor of the box (3 sides) just over the pump with a saw-all delicately and bingo in no time the pump was replaced. Reinstall the liner and that was it. What do you think of this idea?
Just got a check engine light today and this is the problem I have an 07 with 270k miles
Hi is this the same process same pump 2017 base Sierra ? Thanks
Hi is this the same process same pump 2017 base Sierra ? Thanks
I hate to see the big bar you have there
I don’t care what they say or say about you Derrick I think you’re a hell of a guy keep up the good work
"Little bar" 😄😄
I don't have to lower the fuel tank in my 2001 dodge ram van anymore because I cut inspection holes over the fuel pump and screwed the pieces back for convenience. How about that Eric O ? . Of course it would not be possible to do that with a truck like the one you just worked on but it is an idea for a van,
Thanks to the viewer that sent you the safety glasses, however you should have been wearing them along with a dust mask when you were blowing the initial crud outside. You did a nice job. All that rust (along with the crooked politicians) that you New Yorkers have to deal with makes me cringe.
I have a new lock ring what are my tank there is no receiving little knobs is there any adhesive I could use J-B Weld or something that I can use to keep my fuel pump in place
Thanks so much Eric. On my way to the parts store to pick up a new fuel pump assembly for my 08 Silverado, and you probably saved me an extra trip for a lock ring… I’ll grab one while there. Just discovered your videos, and color me impressed. One tradesperson to another, you are an excellent journeyman/teacher. Please keep up the great work and continue educating us home mechanics that are trying to save a few bucks in labor. I generally don’t subscribe to channels, but I subscribed to yours, you’re my 3RD subscribe… EVER!
Interesting video. I am praying mine goes that easily except I don't have any of that fancy stuff like you have. I'm talking about the tranny jack and lift. It's just me, my tools, my driveway 🙁 Wish me luck!
How come every one I touch has the lines seized in the quick connects on the top of the pump! Son of a Gun! Lol. Just did one today and literally have to gut the rusted remains out of every quick connect. Lol. Props to any of my fellow rust belt mechanics!
Thanks for the video. I have a 2007 Sub with only 74 miles. Check engine light turned on with OBD code P0446 (Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit 1/1. I've replaced the gas cap, vapor vent canister valve, vapor jumper wire and the Emissions Vapor Canister Purge Valve Solenoid EVAP Vent ( I don't think it's necessary but I did it anyway). Cleared it and the check engine light is gone but after driving 93 miles, the I/M is still not ready with a combo drive of city and fwy. Drove it for another mile and after 6 cycles, when I ran the OBD at 94 miles to see if it's I/M ready, unfortunately I see the same "pending" P0446 code despite driving it up to 110 miles hoping it will clear on it's own. So I decided to erase the pending code/OBD and did the same thing again. Drove it up to 92 miles without check engine, still not I/M ready and at 94 miles later it's still not ready and the "pending" p0446 code is back. Should I continue driving it in hope that it will go away since it's not giving me a permanent OBD code? I'd appreciate any suggestions on what to do so I can get this smog. Btw, I/M reads as: PdDTC (1), Evap (X), Cat (X) and the rest has a check mark/ready.
P0442 code ended up being my gas cap. I reset the cap.
Pretty snazzy safety glasses ya got there Eric O 😎 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Need to do mine. May try the bed tilt idea. You have any vids of that method? Great work by the way
I have a 2015 Chev Malibu with 177000 km and it shows code 0089 and code
0016. Code 0089 says it's the fuel pressure regulator and the 0016
says it's the bank 1 camshaft position sensor. I called the dealership for the price of the FPR and they tell me they don't have one on the computer. A dummy like me believes him because I don't find any videos of anyone working on the 2015 which seems to be different than the others in the engine. Any information would be a appreciated as I have no clue where to find, even the line to fuel pressure test. Thanks
Your assistant is so pretty😊😉😮☺
How much did you charge to do this?
If you think a fuel pump/lock ring looks pretty bad on an 09 in 2015, I just did my girls 08 in 2021 lol. The fuel supply line had rusted completely through and getting the vent line off was a pisser. The lock ring though was the bane of my existence…. Penetrating fluid once a day for a week, air hammered the piss out of it, bought a lock ring tool and used my 1/2" impact to beat on it until I rounded the tool out. I finally got that damn thing off though. Tank strap bolt just spun in it's hole, tank strap disintegrated when I try to put leverage on it. Had to use my angle grinder to cut the bolt and my air hammer to punch the rest of the bolt and nut up through the tube on the frame. I told her I'm never working on it again and she needs to get a new truck.
Great video! Now I just need a lift in my garage. Lol
Dr. Eric: Could you hand me the scalpel? Looks like he is doing an operation.
All that rust, is that a 2019?
What brand fuel module do you recommend? I have to change mine and they range in price from $200 to $500.
Why did you not spray the hole pump top and ring area with the fluid film spray to keep the rust at bay as well as to seal the old metal parts Eric?
Absolutely 💯 on point just used this video and completely removed my first fuel tank. Didn't have a air hammer but I improvised and got the lock ring off without damaging the tank tabs.
Thank you for this video and the many more that I will check out for sure!!
Just came across your channel.
I subscribe because of your truth.
Great job.
Nice channel, i will be watching more. So what do you drive for a vehicle????????????
Excellent Video Cheers!!
Eric did this video in 2015. I watched it in 2021. Eric gave it 6 more years to do. By my math that pretty good looking Chevy truck is headed for the "Krusher" right now. Thanks for Sharing!
you're video helped me change out a fuel pump (module!) on my 02' Silverado, thank you so much! I'm lucky I live in a dry climate where I didn't have to deal with the rust issues 🙂
Can you tell me if that’s the same way I have to remove my gas tank an install a new fuel module on my 2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette minivan???
Is it common for the fuel sending unit to be "bad" but still be sending ~48 psi to the fuel rail? I have the gas smell and evaporations codes but the pressure checks good.
PB on that ring son!
Nice job sir. Been chasin down a PO-442 in '03 Corolla. Thought I had it good, but after 170 miles came back. Checked the 2 solenoid/valves, replace rusty over-fill valve gasket and of course the fill cap. Pretty rusty around my fuel sender unit as well. Guess I need to invest in a smoker, $100 on Amazon.
Thank you so much amigo, easy to understand 👌🏽👍🏽
Good job amigo
no needto take the drive shaft off
I can remember what a pain the rust was when in lived in Vancouver BC Cars would evaporate before your very eyes. Now I live in Vegas there is never any rust on anything I have a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer and it is completely rust free. I recently did a brake job on my truck and my brake lines looked like new.
the evap mode on the readyness menu wont pass and it doesnt throw any codes. i cleared the computer and drove car for a week then checked to see if it passed and it didnt. everything else did. i replaced the gas cap and problem still exists. i dont have a code scanner that does what yours does.. any suggestions where to begin. my car is a 2010 malibu 2.4 engine
Nice dog
you should always replace the little hose that goes from evap switch on engine pvc feed, I find the manufacturer uses inferior materials.
Awesome, the stealership want $1800 to change these out so I will be doing this weekend.
I think pulling the bed is the worst idea any mechanic has ever had. IF you replace the fuel module, Then you must clean the fuel tank. How do you do that properly with the tank installed on the truck and the bed off? It has no lower drain port, so you really can not do it properly. Good thing you did it by dropping the tank.
Thank You for posting this video. It was very helpful to know what to expect, to look for, and how to remove connections. 😁
I got a question for you….. I have a 2011 Silverado 1500 LT. Sunday, 7/25/2021 I just had a new fuel "module" put in, just like in your video. Today, Tuesday My gas gauge was below 3/4's empty. I filled it, but it only took 10 gallons. How is this possible? I've owned this truck now for 6 years, and at 3/4's empty it always took between 17 and 20 gallons. Is it possible for the float to be up side down? OR what are your thoughts on this situation????
New silverado owner. 2008 silverado 1500. P0451 P0446 and p0442. I do smell gas fumes outside my truck
When have a 2011 chevy HD it turns over and everything but won't start we replaced the fuel filter but it's still doing the exact same thing what else could it be