I bring you along in this video as I replace the plugs and coils in this 2005 Ford F-150 3 valve engine. I bust off a couple in the head and I'll show you how I get them out.
CHECK OUT WELLS : http://www.wellsve.com/
CHECK THEM OUT ON YOUTUBE:
Here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSTnD7AfY1vOUoQVjG89uBg
And Here: https://www.youtube.com/user/markjhicks/videos
TOOL USED IN VIDEO:
Lisle (LIS65600)
Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3-Valve Engines
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
CHECK OUT WELLS : http://www.wellsve.com/
CHECK THEM OUT ON YOUTUBE:
Here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSTnD7AfY1vOUoQVjG89uBg
And Here: https://www.youtube.com/user/markjhicks/videos
TOOL USED IN VIDEO:
Lisle (LIS65600)
Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3-Valve Engines
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
Which valve coil packs does the 2004 f-150 5.4 take?
Wow your show is a good one 👍 need to see a relay fuse my truck was running packed then no crank no start
I will never ever buy a Ford for this very reason repeat, NEVER EVER.
If they are aluminum heads use nickel anti seize. To prevent corrosion
I used a compact Ryobi vacuum from Home Depot, made a makeshift extension tip that fit into the spark plug tube, and vacuumed out grime and sand etc that was in the spark plug hole (before removing the spark plugs) a lot of little crumbs came out, a lot more than expected! It may work if you can manage to tape up an extension that’ll go down to the top of the piston!
I made a comment earlier then remembered a trick the sometimes works when they break. Disable the fuel pump and spin the engine several times. I've had the compression push the intact porcelain up and out and occasionally actually push the stupid sleeve up. It only takes a minute to try it.
Wow you make it look easy
When I've broken one, I like to move the piston further down the bore so I can use a shop vac choked down with a small hose in an attempt to remove as much of porcelain from cylinder as possible. Kinda rough on your shop vac, but it makes me feel a little better. Someday I'll buy a dental style vac maybe.
scary eye opening video. Makes me not want to touch a ford engine ever. thanks Eric.
great channel
A long time ago I owned a Vega, I broke of two of the four Champion spark plugs, They had a rolled section just below the hex, so the only thing left in the head was the threads and side electrode. came out with straight spline extractor.
Try using a shop vac.
Same like on diesel with glow plugs
I have one of these pieces of crap and have changed plugs twice, the only thing I have done different I’d spray a little bit of penetrating oil down the plug hole let it set for a minute, crack the plug about a half a turn let it set another minute then remove the plug.
The reason they have this design is because of each cylinder has 3 valves. There was not enough room to Get a conventional plug in.
Good job! Good knowledge and explanation! Thanks.
I had my car at service for 2h and they couldn't get the plug out. They wanted to remove the cylinder head. I drove it hot and changed the plug. Later the threads were fixed. Great design by the way…
intresting, dont you need to keep track of the cables so they go back in the right order? i usually mark mine with tape when changing sparkplugs.
excellent video… Thanks!
Never seize may not ever help, but it cant hurt. I'm not sure of any situation where using it was a bad thing. Better to always default and use it as to not. Never mind it being potentially kind to the next guy having to RR something, it will probably be you if it's a regular customer. Just use it everywhere on everything as far as i'm concerned. I live on the east coast of Canada in Nova Scotia. Lots of Atlantic Ocean salt in the air and a shit ton of salt dumped on the roads in winter. Lots of grease, oil and never seize put on fasteners around here will always make for better RR's down the road. Ford so screwed up with that stupid sparkplug design. We've had perfectly function sparkplugs for +- 100 years why did ford go and try and reinvent the wheel? IDIOTS!
It's so weird that this pops up a day after discussing this same issue with a 3v owner. Spot on demonstration.
I crack them lose a little fill the hole with deep creep and let sit over night. Helps alot for me…
Start with the rear plugs first while engine is hottest. Or even better – remove two or three at a time, replace with new, reheat engine, and repeat for old plugs.
I've done these and on a few mini coopers i've had threads blow right out so i have to re tap and heli coil them. I usually put oil in the hole not too much and i have a small hand held vacumm ment for bleeding brakes that i suction the crap outa there. Then i use a small camera to make sure i get all the metal or porcelin outa there. Cheers boys!!
Ok here….
You can't get the camera in back to show us how the tool works.
So just break off one in front !!!!
Then we can see your expertise is action !
You are very good keep up the great work my friend thank you.
The engineers must be the most fantastic people in the world why don't we design all the stuff that works just as well as that. I mean couldn't they design something for a pacemaker that if you bump it the wrong way it breaks apart. That's just as good as a spark plug that breaks.
Another better idea from ford
The 15 5.0 does not use these?
Make yourself a rubber hose about the size of the spark plug hole connected to a vacuum and or to vacuum any of that porcelain or any other debris out of your spark plug hole
Could the porcelain act like sandpaper, carving up the walls? Or is it likely to be ejected almost instantly?
The answer is not neverseize. The answer is the Ford engineers who did this need castrated with the smashing tool you use to remove their mistake.
I have studied a ton of videos on the 3 valve plug issue and my take is that the two piece plug design is the achilles heel. Those were redesigned I believe in late 2008 year model, so the broken plug issue should no longer be a problem, once you do a replacement. Lack of anti seize MAY compound the problem, but if that tip has jammed in the head ( the tip is in a close tolerance opening to the cylinder so crud naturally gets in there and glues it down) from combustion deposits, the anti seize is of questionable value, it does help with the threaded portion, but will not guarantee that the tip remains freed up and which is why it twists off. Why always the back plugs?? well I do not know, but I have heard other top mechanics stress the need to keep the plug socket and torque wrench aligned straight with the plug. Those back plugs make it very difficult to achieve a straight twist on the plug. Your removal methods are in sync with the other top mechanics, opt for a hot engine and use an impact wrench. I do not think that bits of broken porcelain or grounding electrode would be catastrophic, they may rattle around a while and even catch on the exhaust valve seat momentarily, but I expect that would not render damage and the foreign bodies would eventually be expelled thru the exhaust.
I just found it to be faster to just let them bust and use the tool to pull the bottom piece out. That Lise tool is the best for this. That tool has never not worked. The glue stick tool never worked for me. The previous years were the worst where you stripped out the head on the back side of the v8 and v10s. There is a great fix for those now too, no pulling the head.
I had the same issue and changed all the spark plugs, coils, solinoids, and it would jerk at 55 mps with the over drive off. It turned out to be the transmission torq converter. My 2007 Ford F150 FX2.
Wonder if it is the difficult access to the back 2, with perhaps the extension stressed slightly to one side that is more likely to break them?
They have a tool that has glue on it and attaches to a wire to stick in there but I like that method too
you need a suction catheter to apply suction and suck that porcelain broken bit onto the end of the catheter and withdraw it
My mechanic was telling me about this problem he had to change the spark plug and the coil on my Lincoln navigator with that same motor he said there's a possibility the spark plug might break if it does he charges $50 for every spark plug that breaks what do you charge?
Great info. Headed to the mechanic tomorrow. I have the very exact issue. Same year f150.
The mustangs did the same thing 5.0s an 4.6s
I only broke one an after that I used anti seas on the new ones an never broke any more .
thanks EricO, I bet my wife can change out broken ford spark plugs now, because she has seen me watching this video over and over because it is so good.
another great video, 🤣
I call that a bad design, when ya need an impact gun to pull a spark plug!
Hey Eric. Don’t you wish they would put the ignition key on the left side of the steering heel for fix or repair daily vehicles so our favorite mechanic don’t pull a muscle reaching for the key or wear the door hinges out from being in the shop so much.
Have you tried a small vacuum tube connected to a sho vac.
To get the ceramic shards out I suggest a shop vac with a piece of tubing hooked up to it that is slightly smaller OD than the plug thread and just insert the tube through the plug hole and suck it out. Don't want to risk a small piece damaging the valve seats or piston rings / walls.
Name of goop he brushed on new plug threads?
No no no absolutely blowing it with that air gun. That's not how you get them out… Presoak.2 days 50/50 on pb blaster and automatic transmission fluid. Then heat with torch until good and hot. Slowly and carefully work back and forth tighten loosen tighten loosen. If it binds go the other way.. eventually they come out unbroken all of them
What if you heated engineer like you do then put your socket in liquid nitrogen. Thought would be hit expanded metal engine and cold shrunk plug. Just a thought