Take our clamp and we'll stick it over the hose. See that way there? Yep, that way there. Make sure you have it going a direction in which you can tighten it. I change all the hoses if you feel inclined to do so.

We have our new pump here. It's the easing as I mentioned. looks like Asian but it's not. Asian I guess it is.

Japan Look at the twirly gig on the back. Then we have our mid gasket here. There's that little guy. This is the tin one.

That's how you know it makes that sound. These can be a pain and a hoo-hoo to get all lined up and everything. Don't gobbing it up with silicone for kind of. please.

Please refrain from dumping silicone all over it. Stick a couple bolts in it. Hopefully they'll hold the gasket for you. Sometimes you got to take the gasket and kind of tweak it because you see how she's springy, dingy right there.

When it hits, it's going to want to pop off. Sometimes you're okay. Sometimes you have to take it off. tweak it.

We're gonna come down here. We're gonna give it a try. We might drop some stuff, might get the dropsies. You guys are in a super inconvenient spot for me to do this, but we're gonna try it anyways.

I need to move you I tried I failed. Way more difficult to record than I had anticipated. so I'm gonna stick it down here I'll get my hose started. let's get it on there.

very really. just lightly. I've got the bolts in there I'm probably going to be right your way, but we'll have to just commentate this one. I'm gonna stick my hose out a little bit further.

Yeah, our bolts are still holding the gasket. We're gonna swing it right in here. I'm gonna keep an eye on my top left Bolt and I'm gonna very lightly get that one started. that one I Know it started.

I'm gonna move my hand out of the way. get my bolt on this one or my socket on this one and get that bolt started. And it's as difficult as that. Sometimes it can be a little more difficult and um, you'll drop the gasket six or seven times or you won't get the bolt hole lined up the first time properly and that's at this point you look at it.

say mother I Totally forgot to put the little seal that goes between the water pump and the oil pump so you're losing up all your bolts again. May start over and delete this part out of the video. but the Little Seal in there that's like that went way too easy also. huh? Here's why: look at this little worthless seal again.

I Think it just keeps out the dust and the dirt from the bottom side. We're gonna put a little Toyota o-ring grease on there. help slip it in if you fight this one like 15 times trying to get it in, use the old one. it's way more smushed down and again it doesn't seal out any liquid or anything like that.

Anything too important. Okay, round two. First one, that was just practice I was just practice showing you. hey, it can be done.

Stick your gasket back on whichever two bolts you choose to use. Those two is what we're going to use. Back down, back on the hose and then let's see if it slips in a little more difficult this time. As we bring it around, you might have to hold the edge of that little gasket or whatever you want to call it in there to get it started.

Okay just to kind of slip it past the oil pump. I was in here and then we're going to go right back until we see our first bolt and we see that look at that. kind of started by hand. looks like our gasket's still hanging out where it should be and we'll wiggle our water pump till second one lines up which it's not lining up very easily for us.

so we're gonna come in with a different Bolt see if that one wants to line up? probably not and you may have to wiggle your pump around here. There we go. I Just felt it that one's still being a piss pot so we want to see what you want to look at. If you want to make darn two and your gasket didn't slip around on you and it does not look like it did, it looks like it's still where it's supposed to be, so that's good.

We'll try to start another one. We'll pick a different one here when that one started. Sometimes you need to shove it over this direction into that that new seal that you put in there because it's kind of thick. it kind of pushes back on you.

There we go and I think I just felt that one started I Thought: get the name there, it is. Okay, so we're in the home stretch now. once you get a couple of them in there, you guys don't feel around for that one. Talk nice to it.

Make darn tooting that they're all started before you go, jamming down with a dug a gun or anything for that matter. Now that we have them all started, we're going to very gingerly very lightly around that man. Thank you. All right, we're gonna go by hand at this point.

we got them pretty close, took up the slack. Anyways, find it where you at that one that one and then we'll come through turkey from the factory specs obviously which I think 8.9 foot pounds. it said 8.9 That's pretty specific. We're going to round her up to nine and then I don't have a torque wrench that goes that low in the foot pound scale so we'll have to convert that to uh inch pounds.

So whatever. 9 times 12 is what would that be like One 18 and so 108, right? I'm gonna double check in on the calculator. We're gonna go 108 inch pounds which is about where we're at right now. Let me, uh, check my math and then get a torque wrench.

108 inch pounds is the magic number. It's 9 times 12. there is a specific order that they want you to do them in so you'll have to look that up. I'll be honest with you.

I've never torqued one of these a day in my life. Uh, we only do it because we're doing a YouTube video. If you have some common sense in your head, just go ahead and snug them up lightly. These are very small.

Fasteners Oh, sounds like Josh just sucked the boat in the bench grinder I know that sound? You stick a little skin with it and I want you to go over them two times. Eight point nine pound feet of torque. We're gonna go over a whole bunch of times out of sequence like I say I've never torqued one of those ever. I've done probably 100 of them.

Once we have that torque to factory spec, we're going to tighten up our hose clamp down here. We'll line that baby up, use the 5 16 or an eight millimeter, whichever gets better. Lined up nice. We're right back where the old clamp was and that was Napa that just called me on the phone.

say they don't know when they'll be able to get the thermostat here. It might not be until late this afternoon and right now we're still pretty early in the morning. So but again, that's my own fault. So let's get some brake parts, cleaner, give this the full douche down, get rid of all the dirt and junk and crap we stirred up here and we'll blast that off and we'll at least get our timing.

But we get our time belt coverage. We get everything back on and just put that in last fresh can first thing in the morning. There it is. got a sideways sprayer here.

kind of like me first thing in the morning. Yeah. I Think we're pretty good there. Some folks are asking down in the comment section there about how come I'm not doing the crank seal in the cam seal and oil pump gasket and rebuilding the engine and everything while we're this far in.

And that is because geographically where we're located, this car will not live that long. It will never see a second timing belt it. You know that's just the fact of life folks. Uh, five six years she's gonna be in a scrap.

Heap So that's why we don't go ahead and do everything. Um, you know, none of them are leaking. The can seals aren't leaking, the crank seal is not leaking. And like I say in four or five years this thing's going to hit the crusher so there's no sense really in pissing away money doing that stuff.

But if you live outside of the salt Bell and you're going to drive your car for you know, three million miles or however far these things go, then yeah, change. Change all your seals that you feel fit. I Usually do them when they blow the head gaskets because inevitably it's a Subaru it's gonna nuke the head gasket. It has been a hot minute since I've done one of these because the majority of these are already in.

The Crushers We don't see these old EJ engines anymore, so we're going to stick the tensioner up on here. It has to be about my last customer that has one of these cars with the timing belt engine. Oh, let's see. hopefully I don't do this out of order.

I'm gonna put a black one here and like I say make darn sure you're using you know either NSK or coil bearings because even even though like I say even though this car is ultimately going to end up in the in the scrap heat, um, if you're using the cheap Chinese bearings, it won't even make it to the scrap peep. Unfortunately, those things are super trash. Uh, let's find this a belt here. Um let's find our Marxas oil on these.

Asian belts are going to have marks so we have our lettering side out. We've got a cam Mark cranks a double triple dot thing there and then our other cam Mark there. so that goes down here somewhere. Am I doing that right now? I'm pretty sure.

Yeah. I think we do it. Everything with these elastic. put this halfway through.

Seems like a guide remembers stuff like this. It's all right. Sticker up on our cam here. We'll bring her down and around and it kind of lace through some things here, up and around on the tensioner.

Whoops! I'll show you here when we're all done. things look like hopefully, hopefully I'll be able to show you there's that. I'm pretty sure I've got to take this idler back off because I don't think we'll be able to go around that pulley. Yep, that's the that's your problem lady right there.

That's what I thought that's why I didn't tighten anything up because I kind of put the card ahead of the horse here so we'll undo this one. We're gonna get her up on this pulley line up I Need to stick this to the side stick that one where we need it. This one click off. We'll bring our cam back here a little bit.

We'll get her lined up there. We go to get all of our marks lined up inside the belt. like I said. that's why I Don't get too excited about lining them up on everything.

All right. Line it up the timing marks and we're going to stick our idler back on here. And if you're doing it this way, you got to be super careful. not to.

you know, not to cross thread this one. It's easy to do because it has a little bit of belt tension on it so you just line up the bolt, kind of push down on it. Just keep wiggling your Bolt. you'll know when it starts.

If you can't start it by hand with your socket, you're doing it wrong. You know you should never have to have air ratchet or impact or anything like that. Just use your socket before you do it. I'm going to look at your mark Make Sure, your mark on your timing belt lines up with the notch.

this Mark lines up with the Notch and this Mark also lines up with the notch on the cam point. and then once you have it, then just go ahead and run that one home. There's that one for your Beltline at the bottom. Make sure everybody still looks good if they're not sitting dead center on the pulleys.

As far as like, in the middle of them, you kind of scooch them around here by hand. Last excuse it, there's that. We'll grab our bowl out here and same thing on this idler that goes down here. Start it by hand.

don't no air tools? Okay, be tempted. You're like I just can't get it started. It should start pretty easy. Shouldn't be much belt tension down on this end.

Okay, there's that one. There's that one. that one. Don't forget to Snug them up because we're making YouTube video I need to look up torque specs and again, this is nothing I've ever torqued in my entire life.

So I don't know. Uh, 26, 32, 26-32 and that one is 29. So why don't we just pick 29 and we'll whack them all at 29? Because that's all between 26 and 32. and the only one that was specific at 29 was this guy.

Be honest with you, just snug them up, slipped, there you are. They're all 29 pound feet of torque before you pull the grenade pin. Let's see this Mark is going to line up with that notch on the head. Okay, this is about what the upper Cam Bearing or whatever you want to call it there on the head hold the camshaft in, but it's really neither here nor there.

It can be off to the left, off to the right. as long as you mark on your belt lines up with that one. and then we have the mark on our belt here. See if I can get you down here, you've got the notch here.

You've got the notch up here in your oil pump housing all right, and then your dots there on your belt and then the notch out here. so all that lines up and then we scooch over here without bumping in too much stuff and you've got Your your Notch and your Notch and if you sit up on top of it, you can see you're to the right of it. It doesn't matter here, we'll push it down. There you go, then that lines up.

Just remember folks, when you're doing this: I Hear this all the time. People are like, man, my timing's a half a tooth off. I'm here to tell you, my guy, that's impossible. You can't be a half a tooth off.

Ever. In any circumstance. Even with the chain, you can either be a full tooth off or nothing. So your mark can either be here or way over here.

it's gonna be one full. Notch You cannot be a half a tooth off. So there we are. Oh, and I just pulled the grenade pin.

I Lift it. This is just the pin that goes in your tensioner. Once you're certain everything's lined up, pull the pin and that's it. You're out of here.

Put them in your Subaru pulley collection if you have one. Don't see the tensioners leaking too often in these, but this one certainly was PPN so that's it. If you feel so inclined to do so, throw your crank pulley on it and you can fire it up briefly to make sure everything's good. Um, but I'm pretty confident and if you're really doubting yourself, bar the engine over a couple times, you can do that.

Doesn't hurt anything, but we have tension where we need it and we, you know make sure that you don't all of a sudden have a bunch of slack down here. You really can't screw these up. Be honest with you folks. Probably one of the easiest timing belt jobs you'll ever do in your life.

Midday delivery. Just got here Napper Dropped off the thermostat I Put the O-ring on it, wiped it very lightly with some Toyota o-ring grease. you sill Glide or whatever you have got our light down here. it does have your Jiggler it's your classic jiggle pin.

Uh, put that baby at the top so it should sit right in your water pump housing. Here, jiggle pin at the top. put a little bit of o-ring grease on there that'll hold her just nicely. As mentioned previously, uh, cleaned this baby up on the wire wheel.

get rid of all that corrosion. we'll find a 10 mil socket and then we'll stick this bad boy on there. Also, as mentioned previously, we need to change out that hose clamp down here. A slower hose, of course.

we're you know, automatically going to change out this one and then the ones that went on the uh, upper hose here. look at that changed out. but I'm going to use a pair of clamp pliers here. Probably can't get it one-handed a couple of times.

Been like insanely bad at my left hand here today. That makes it difficult to squeeze things. Look at this up here. scripts a little more.

I Don't know if I have you been struggling with carpal tunnel? but holy smokes man, today was between that and arthritis boy. I Tell you what, getting older sucks, we'll get in with these. She's pretty well wasted. I'm gonna set you down so I can work this back.

Oh no, There we go. We got her. What's of course, slide your new clamp on. It's down there with a long screwdriver.

Smelled it up and put your new clamp on there and now we'll throw our timing covers on two. Take your bolts that hold the timing cover on. Go clean them up on the wire wheel, stick them in a pile. Food, Film them little guys.

give them a little, we'll shake ground, get the fluid film all over them. You'll thank me. or at least the guy at the junkyard will thank me. All swelled up where the rust builds right up under the heads of these things.

You almost have to. Chisel It Off and I do them on the bench grinder. I Just take a stick on the edge of the bench grinder and then just turn it and it chips off all the rusts it usually still leaves. You know if there's enough flange, you're okay.

If you think about it, order yourself two, four, six, eight, ten, ten new bolts. But if you don't think about it, just clean them up. I wish that more of an optimal viewing angle for you, but I don't I've elected to not super glue this if your gasket. if you had to cut it like I did and your gasket's falling off, you can take a piece of electrical tape and just stick over this just to temporarily hold it once it's on and push against the block.

It ain't going anywheres, so that's it's up to you. You can use your discretion doing your own. I've seen plenty of them come in with no gasket at all. Foreign I Probably don't need to show you this whole process, but I'll show you the beginning of it.

I'm just going to go through and we're going to stick in all the bolts. There is one bolt on the bottom that I did not show you I think I showed you when I took it off. That is different than all the rest. It is a non-shouldered bolt down around this area.

You can use a mirror and find it or it'll be the one hole that one of these bolts won't fit in. I was there I think I've allergic to work and start sneezing until I got here. Oh, let's see, we probably ought to listen to it. Run before we get super deep, put it in coolant in it.

I'm gonna put just a spritz of the film inside here. Wipe that around a little bit key weights on the bottom because they're timing is set. Not that that's going to help us find this admission there. slitter right in.

If you do start yours with timing, cover off. make sure you put the crank pulley on just in case something stupid happens and the belt starts walking off. This will keep it from walking off. Usually the belt tried pretty square and true, but it doesn't take much for them to start coming out this direction and you don't want that to happen.

Trust me. It's never happened to me, but I've seen it. I've started up a lot of timing belt jobs, covers off on various makes and models. you know I have Mrs o in there and you know, scream like a little school girl, shave it off.

shut it off. Something similar to that because the belt's certainly come out. You're like whoa, that was a close one. Uh, not tight yet.

Obviously we'll torque that to factory spec, but we should be in a position in which we can fire it up. We'll plug in our O2 sensors here so we don't get a check engine light. There is no coolant in it. Um, and sometimes Subarus with no serpentine belt will have an excessively high idle or an erratic.

Idol So don't be too alarmed if uh, if you start yours, let's say you have coolant in it. you're gonna let it run for a while. If it, if it starts hunting for an idle, put your serpentine belt on it. Uh, that'll That'll usually resolve that.

We have no coolant in this engine, so we're only going to run it momentarily. There is oil in it. just FYI Oh good. It runs.

all that rattling noise you're hearing is the heat shields that we also need to address. We need to fix them. Um I Just want to make sure it ran pretty sure it was going to run. We did good.

You did good. Do not forget to torque your crank pulley bolt. You don't want to do that. I'll give our engine mount bracket there a couple others crank pulley bolt has been torqued to factory spec.

Imagine that those clamps have been replaced. It's time to get rid of our Shield our blast Shield Here from the radiator I Find myself doing that more and more on different cars. I'm working on if I got the radiator exposed. It's inevitable.

I'm going to do something like that, but it's going to be something heavy at metal and it's got a pink a hole. I've had to buy one customer one radiator in 20 plus years they've been doing this. You know it was a painful experience. Oh why? what do we have here? This is not the radiator fan that we need.

We can do the left side one if we want. We can put this one in and it just goes down and sits on the little pegs there in front of the radiator. You'll know when you get it. See, we don't have.

Now we do. And then you just put the electrical connector back in. You'll hear that baby click. Grab a couple of the bolts that we took out previously.

get them lined up. We still have to take that one bolt apart I See, but the corner has been soaking on for hours at this point. It should pretty much unwind it so it's taking them to the touch. You don't have to murder.

These things. Don't murder Because we haven't fixed that bolt yet. How about we grab a 15 mil? Scratch. This guy took care of all the stuff.

They've got to get it all back out. I'll stick this on. That's a 15 right? not 16. it's 15.

foreign. We'll try it like this before we give up and look on service data. Is that right? Nope, that's wrong. We better go look.

I'm telling you I'm telling you right now, but we'll try it one more time. We'll go this way and this way and then this way, this way and then down around. is that it? Nope, That's not it. I'm gonna look.

We were so close. Yeah, so far away. If you don't have service data, folks, write stuff down, draw your, take a picture. Anyways, with your phone.

it's probably the easiest thing to do I have a tendency to not memorize anything I can look up. You could probably Google this too before we go around. crank over the AC over the alternator, down around The Idler up around the power steering down, around the other, back around the crank if you're just trying to figure it out yourself. Typically, most pulleys have more than more than half traction with the belt.

So if the belt's just going, let's say, just across the top of the alternator over the power steering. That's obviously wrong because it won't have enough traction sometimes and that that is on stuff that's driven by the belt. So the crank typically has more than 50 percent of the crank being. you know, grabbing onto that belt.

idlers. However, it doesn't matter. There are some idler systems where that belt literally just gets across top. The Idler It doesn't have to wrap around more than half of it, but that's my observation.

Like you can see by the power steering pulley that's more than 50. That's probably closer to 70 percent of contact with the belt. Same thing with the alternator. It's probably at least half a little more in half.

Same thing with the AC It's half the diameter, the pulley and then usually the crank has. you know a good majority of it because that's the Big Driver So that's just my silly theory on it. Uh, at least what I've seen. or if I'm sitting there trying to put a belt on I'm too lazy to go look up a diagram.

So we're going to stick this down in there. And don't forget, you gotta pull back your transmission lines and stick them back into that. Groove You got to get in the groove baby! So I'm gonna reach down here and pull them back and just kind of let them let them chillax in there for a minute. My electrical connector is Right smacking my way.

so I'm gonna pull that out of the way, find our pegs where you at Peg There it is and then once that's in there, I'm just going to push my training lines into that Groove and then put my electrical connector on. Let's see how the coil did after soaking for multiple hours, we'll hit it with a no Mercy reversy now. she comes back in the radiator and we're back in business. So that's all they are.

A little squared nut like something your Grandpa would have in a baby food jar screwed to his workbench. You guys know what I'm talking about. If you don't know what I'm talking about, go out and look in this bench on his workbench and it's going to be right next to the baby food. Jar Full of flatheaded Fasteners Trust me folks, somebody's laughing at that because when you know you know, ah, right down in no man's land, no, it's here I can hear it, daddy.

That was easy. Yeah right. Oh how come when I drop stuff, It has to go into no man's state. couldn't just fall on this plastic shoes? Careless.

think car apart. she just went. got a new Bolt oops back here. Foreign.

missing a bolt. it usually doesn't fix them all the way though. I'll tell you what it does. So these I mean they're not super complex how they're made, but they got these little standoffs inside here that go up against the pipe and then bolted together.

It creates that air gap between these and the pipe. If it was my car, I would take the torch Nick to cut off all these bolts. so every one of these shields in the garbage. Uh, but on a customer's car we can't do that because there's a thing called liability and do happy people and all that garbage.

So what I would do in this case because the tabs are broke clean off so even if we just put a bolt in there, it's still going to rattle and you can take and just a little tack weld there and a little tack weld there and it's going to last. You can do the classic wrap the hose clamp around it, squeeze the hell out of it type thing there it is. The only other option is to replace the converters and or take this all apart and weld a couple pieces off to both those two. But let's be honest, that's going to work perfectly fine.

See, fixed. It's not a hose clamp, but those were great too. How do we get so distracted? Oh, we had to find the bolt. That's right.

this. Bolt stick that back down in that slot. Stick this back in there. That's it.

That's all she needs. If this video fits together seamlessly, it'll be a miracle. So we're gonna put this little guy back in. It just snaps in there.

Uh, what was I doing I put the upper radiator hose on I don't believe I recorded that but that's pretty cut and dry. It's talking with a customer that helped Josh and I've been working on one other car and I think this is where we left off. We find our deals here someday. I should make a video of what really happens during the making of a video.

You guys wouldn't believe me sometimes. I impress myself when I get home and I put the video together like wow, You can't tell that that 30 minute video car was in your shop for like eight hours. You did XYZ and looks like you never even left the job except your gloves changed six or seven times. but oh well.

I guess if it all works out in the end I'm going to use the dump it straight in method I Do have a airlift system multiple ones as a general rule if the Subaru does not have a blown head gasket I don't have a problem bleeding them out. Uh, the times I See people that really, really struggle with these and lots of air and overheating and purging and continuous never-ending purging. Well, ultimately, it needs a head gasket. If they don't and you used a thermostat with a jiggle pin, these typically don't have a problem.

Our radiators sits higher than the engine and I just fill them up and I let them sit for a while till the well. Wow. I mean you know, a few minutes till the liquid goes through the jiggle pan? Okay, let's fire this. Rattle Trap up here folks.

Pardon me Kante Mike Jeff Gotta wait for it to warm up. Fans just kicked in and they just shut off so everything's good and warm. We got good heat out of the dash circulate nice. Just like the full mark on our drug here.

That's where the fan cycled one time. so I'll pretty much it, folks. That's it folks. Last step: fill out your tags, stick it on there.

Uh, that way somebody knows it was done. Make sure you're buying an Asian kit or an Oem. Kit only don't use the crap from Napa or Advance O'reilly's or AutoZone or the internet I Don't care if it's a deco Gates whatever brand it is, they're garbage. These things are fantastic.

OEM Bearings OEM pump. That's all I Got to tell you. oh you guys got pumped down in that conversation, comments, questions, concerns, finds on the entity. the Facebook doesn't do it.

You can do it. Thanks for watching. Thank you.