In this video I bring you along as I have tackle the most feared job of all rust belt mechanics. The dreaded Subaru rear wheel bearing. These things are perhaps the most seized bearing you can change. They rank right up there with the infamous Ford Explorer rear bearing. I'll show you the trick I use to get the job done in a short time and with minimum crying,
-Enjoy!
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All right folks. One of the most feared jobs in the Auto industry. The infamous Subaru Rear wheel bearing I Have no idea if that's a true statement, but for today's video, we're going to assume it is in the: Northeast guys have quit your job. Instead of doing these, there's rumor that some guys have quit become cosmetologists I Don't know if that's true either, but I've heard the rumor.
So today I'm going to end those fears for you. Show you a trick Memaw Taught me. But first we have to get to the bearings. We're going to pull the brakes off.
a customer request new brakes in the rear as well as both rear wheel bearings. Whoa Man down, let's see what we can do. Show you the key to success with these things. Hopefully it might blow up in our face.
if it does blow up in our face. you'll be right there along with us in a while. I Think it's mean boy. we're gonna take the parking brakes off.
Maybe There we go. Oh right on the ground man. all deliveries are showing up all right now. We're going to take it right off the cable here.
just like so. peel the bolts out. We're almost done folks. I'm gonna reach up here on the back side 14 mm I'm going to want to give it a tap, it'll swivel and we got four of those little guys to take out.
There We are folks. last. Bolt I'm gonna tell you folks I Have tried every method known to man to get these things off presses and pullers and you name it, it doesn't work. These things are stuck like I Think these things even in Florida are stuck.
They go into the knuckle quite a long ways and unfortunately there's nothing to press against here. So if you're using our the Lyle tool that we have that full time here, it's got the forcing screw you can push against the you know caliper bracket. I Wouldn't suggest it because you're just gonna break it. You're going to need a whole knee assembly by the time you're done.
Um, use the actual tools. Last Chance slash First try remover The trick I've used where you remove the bolt. you know the wheel bolt and you know, stick a forcing screw through there. All it does is you know, pop the Hub face off I've done it where I've left the axle nut on doing that method, you really take a chance of breaking the speed sensor when you do that.
it kind of works, but usually it ruins all the bolts and you're really super pissed off by the time it's off. So I'm going to show you a method that I find that works is the easiest, but first thing I do is get this Hub face off. The other thing that folks will say you'll see down in the comments is that they put the bolts in from the back side and then just you know tap on them and then the The Hub comes off. It's not going to happen I Promise you on these Subarus that will not work.
It works on a lot of cases and that's a great way to do it. But on these, you're going to end up buying four new bolts and you're just going to push the threads right out. You gotta trust me folks, these things are stuck all right. So give that a couple whacks, get it right out of your way, and then you're going to want to go break out the welder. I'm gonna show you, a lot of people ain't gonna like this, but I'm all about just getting the job done so you have to get past it coming here with the old drill and a burr. Get that a little polish and then we're gonna grab a bolt. Whatever I did with it here. I'll find it.
Stand by and here's the plan. I take a half inch bolt out of the bolt bin. It'd be better if he had one that was threaded all the way. but in this case this one's not.
We're going to stick the bolt up here with these nuts. These nuts. we're gonna weld it onto the bearing and then we're gonna stick another nut under here. Under this nut.
you'll see why. Trust me. This is a tried and true method that I've I've used and it works. So the problem? I Guess I Guess what we're ultimately doing is we're just trying to get the bearing housing to crack out of the knuckle and that's all you need to do is you just need to get it to pop.
Uh, if you're inclined to just stick a single nut up here and weld it, you can't get enough booger on it to keep it from Just Snapping off it just torques down falls off. So I found in my limited experience that welding two of them keeps it from getting out of keeps it from getting all cattywampus I guess and then sticking another one under here just fills the space. You could probably use a smaller nut under there, but I'd grab three half inches so that's what we're going to use. You'll understand here in a minute and you'll thank me.
especially if you work in the shop and you've turning your two-week notice over doing one of these bearings. And the best part is, you don't even have to be a YouTube certified welder to do this because it's you know it's going in the trash anyways, so nobody can really criticize how crappy of a welder you are. so it's kind of a win-win I'm going to bat this one all the way out here. I'm gonna hold this one here flat.
I'm gonna give it a little tack, just kind of hold it in place I might have it down too far. Nope, not too bad, not too bad at all. You don't need a lot of thread because we're only going to give it just a short push so we'll stick that one under there. I'll try again I Want to push down on that a little bit here? Dang it all the heck.
This is a story of my life right now. This is real world under there. a little more, but that's good enough. but we're going for it.
We're done fiddling. Give that a little tack right there, a little tack right there, and then tack the nut to the nut and that's it folks. Now this thing's gonna be kind of jammed in there. Don't sweat it, just leave it in there.
When you start welding, it's going to be moving and it doesn't matter. We just need to be able to force it against the backing plate that's behind here. There's a really small area that you can push, and ideally it'd be nice to have two, but you'll see we're only going to need one. It's pretty cave. Spanish I Tell you what, you'll want to give me a little hug when you do one of these. Let's see here: get the old helmet on the welding Center is nuclear, so set it as high as it goes. Just fry this little fella. Oh foreign.
We're going to give that a go. I'm not super happy how I've got the nut welded on the inside, but it might be enough to hold it. We have to do a little cool down there for a half a second fella. too close.
We'll grab the three-quarter circuit and a half inch hook and Dougie will get some Leroy Jethro and Gibbs get it. We'll put that on there. We'll put it around things. it doesn't really matter.
you don't really need pants. repeat because it's not going to do squat. Okay, here we go fellas. Nope.
I knew she wasn't stuck. good. Gosh dang it. Let's uh, let's try this again.
I can't really get in there I should have welded that one first. Let me see if I can't booger it a little bit more. We're off kilter right now so it may not work I might have to do round two, but that's that's what happens sometimes. Let's see how it would.
All right, if you can't weld good weld a lot. That's what my motto is. Oh no, you did it. Thank you.
It's not where I want it. This one isn't going to work. I bet. Work like a charm like a dream come over here dreaming.
Then you want to break out the dog because now we got our cracked sideways here. These are pretty pretty precise fit. thank you. Say what? Who just won the war? you want to go to warm blocking see? Got the hammer right here.
Oh Subaru wheel bearing. What? That's how you win son and that really is it folks to go here and clean out the Rocks These suckers go in this backing plate a long ways. Well, plus they go through the backing plate which is so this has a you know, hard metal piece behind it so it's stuck in that they're stuck in the canuckle. It's awful foreign so it's not too bad a job folks.
For the DIY at home, maybe maybe not this. This might be one bearing I would tell the folks at home you probably shouldn't do. and if you go to a shop, you probably should ask them if they have any experience removing them. Um, you know the last thing you want to do is get slapped with a you know, eight hour bill because they just couldn't get it apart and end up doing the whole knuckle and everything.
They are really awful to do anybody that's done one you know it's pretty terrible unless you know the tricks and they're walking the park baby. Foreign specs here. there's that. Oh, let's see another game and you don't really have to worry about the mark you put on the backing plate.
It's pretty insignificant here. Let me, uh, get some brake clean. I'm gonna hit that in a while. We're gonna take some of our silly ramek touch all the spots here. Touch them twice, hang our shoe, find the pin, find a retainer through the back side. I did see on the internet I Posted a picture of me doing one of these one day welding and take one of these off. It was on the Facebook maybe on the entity. Somebody mentioned that soup that they make a puller for these.
So I looked it up, watch some guy use it. It takes about a half a day to get it on and hooked up. and then I think it was a tune of about nine hundred dollars. Foreign because this only costs a couple dollars.
you know, providing you have a welder. I Suppose maybe in the comment section, you can see what as a Diy-er um, what you guys have done to do these I'd be curious to know. All right. Am I going the right way with this thing? Yes sir.
Got my spring foot down back in on the parking brake lever. Here we go. It doesn't go that way. That's the way it's going.
now. we should be good though. There's someone whose shoes fall off. That's all.
that's all. Oh I got my finger. Mm-hmm that looks right right? I Think this thing's seized up? Yes sir, this side's not. Let me get this.
Broke Free She's free now boys. We'll slide that little guy up in there because we are putting some new brakes on it while we're back here. I Might be able to adjust them. Perfect.
Let's see if we have any fingerprints on it. We'll get rid of the evidence. not that anybody uses their parking brakes, but we'll make sure it works when it leaves. That's it baby.
I Got to give it the customary to flip around. it's very important one in the next one. oh my. God that'll hold that the rubbers was missing there already out of parking brake.
Let's get a bracket. Let's slide that little fella. Now don't just go slapping on your rusty crappy old bracket. You got to clean out all the rust where the bad ears go.
You guys seen this. Do it a million times. So I didn't show you I don't show you on the million in one I'm gonna come through and torque those specs. but make sure your uh, you know your pins are free.
the pads they gotta. they gotta move in and out easy. I'm talking like boom. just barely touch them like watching like a pinky finger that if I wanted to take your caliper, push it back with the pushy back tool, clean the Piston face, lubricate the metal to metal surfaces.
Slip that baby on. Hey, it's that guy. It's okay. now we're gonna take and uh, we're gonna snug these up.
We'll come back through like I say We'll torque everything to factory specs so you don't have to worry about that. We still have to tighten up our axle hub nut there prior to doing that though. we're going to reach through our little star adjuster. make sure you made a mental note of which way it needed to turn and we're going to wind it all the way up. We want our little parking brake shoes come out to the hit right there. tight as mud. We're gonna back it off a few clips. Yeah, come on.
Make sure your spring is wound up in your star adjuster there. Yes sir. Easy. Oh I Have to get a smaller screwdriver here.
Sticker in there. Do this one-handed All that danger. danger. There we go.
We got one. seven, Seven ftlbs. Now before I Put the wheel on. Make sure you peen down your axle nut, down into the groove or the axle to keep her from backing off.
A free tip for you if the OG Groove lines up here and there's nothing left to pin over, take the axle nut off this side and swap it for the one on the other side. and chances are, they don't line up in the same exact spot. So, or buy a new axle not like you're supposed to, one or the other. All right folks, that's it.
Rear wheel bearing on your Subaru Doing it the easy way. We'll say we'll use our little claw hands and make these quotes because it's not super easy because you have to have a welder. If you're a Diyer, you might not have a welder. and if you don't, just go buy one.
It might be cheaper than paying somebody to do your wheel bearing on your Subaru I Don't know that for a fact, but these things are a mother lover. I've tried as I mentioned earlier in the video, all the tricks, all the different polars and finagling things you can get on here to try to get these things to break loose and you know, double air hammering Bolts from the back I mean you name it. Tried making up swear words and they still don't come off and that's the method I ended up using one time in a fit of rage and I'm like oh wow, that worked pretty well I have to remember that and then ever since then when these come in, that's just my go-to I don't try anything else first because they're super duper stuck. We grab a couple nuts and a bolt and we weld them up.
I'm so freaking childish and we weld them up on there and boom, you know Bob's your uncle so you guys seen how we do it I'd be curious to know how you guys have done it in the comments section in regards to: Subaru rear wheel bearing set is and uh, how your shop gets them off and uh, that's it. While you're down there, tell me that story. Subscribe to insty the Facebook ring the bell, get the notifications. you guys know what to do at this point and just remember viewers.
If I can do it, you can do it. Thanks for watching foreign.
I saw a tool off amazon that you bolt on and basically whack down with a sledgehammer to free up the bearing. (Hub Buster) Have you tried/heard of it? I wouldn't mind getting a welder to learn how to weld but the sledgehammer tool seems to have high success from what I've seen.
Home gamer here. I did LR with my son last weekend. We used a hub shocker and did not disassemble the backing plate. It took us a couple hours with numerous coffee breaks. We did pull the speed sensor out of the hub
😊😊😊
This video convinced me to pay someone to do it lol. As a DIYer, you have to choose your combats. This war ain't mine. I'll save money on easier stuff
Great technique and excellent video.
I have absolutely no need to change a wheel bearing on a Subaru or on any car for that matter, yet I watched the entire video and found it very therapeutic, so thanks for posting it. AI must have reached a new level of intelligence – the YouTube algorithm seems to have correctly anticipated what I needed. 😊
Clever. Saving this video.
Well, that was an absolute first… never seen those nitrile welding gloves before. Where do you order them?
Hot nuts to the rescue! Whoda think? 😄
Spot on! Spent the better part of a day trying to get the rear hub off a 2014 Forester. Then followed Eric's process with success
. Cheers!
Sweet job.
Best mechanic I’ve seen on YouTube, unreal
They just pound on them with big hammer at Subaru 😂nice method
Nice
Done many of these using every method you could think of except that.Last one I did was in my driveway for my son in law after I retired. Took about 2 hours and he was amazed how frozen it was. I have 3 welders and never thought of using them. Nice work/idea.
IMHO it would be easier and faster just to take off the knuckle and hit the hub assembly from the inside.
Or, as we usually do – just hit the hub on the loosened bolts and it comes off.
Some PBblaster a week before you do the job is also helpful, but in your situation, that isn't possible. I love this, and now that I have a welder, I will do that next time I see a problem like that. I would suggest at least grade 8 hardware, and lots of anti-seize on re-assembly.
The infamous Subaru rear wheel bearing. It's NOT a repair…it's a maintenance item. (2006 Forester XT) I would seriously suggest replacing the rear strut as well.
As mechanic in oregon who works on all types of junk I can confirm that these buggers are stuck here too. Not as bad as you got it of course but stuck none the less. I always appreciate a rust belt expertise. Gives me new way to approach things
I followed this just as shown, it went just like yours, initial pressure broke the front weld, I added more weld and turned the bolt and it started coming out. I would leave pressure on the bolt and smack the bearing housing with a 1 lb hammer and give the bolt a couple more turns. Smack turn smack turn, this was a little scary but it came out pretty straight forward. Big Thank You!
Excellent yes exactly asyou did it !
Key and peele reference love it
I want to see some more BIG NASTY action .498k style
You made a creativen comment the younger guys may not have thought about 😊 switch the big nuts from side to side to allow the lock feature to be used
Maaaan all those Subaru bearings get stuck even here in California, away from the ocean, we sand on our roads not salt. and still those bearings are rusted in so good it will bend a puller.
I tighten the puller until it's almost starting to bend and then stand to the side of it and hit the wheel bearing with a hammer and usually I'll just walk away for half a day and it will suddenly
It’s a fact. This job is a nightmare
Hi! Amazing work 👌 I've got a 07 european forester with shot rear bearings, but having a hard time finding the correct part! I noticed theres a difference between the hub assembly for the drum and the discbrake ones. Anyone have the partsnumber for the drum one?
Yeaah. I had to pull the knuckles. Press out the cv axle in the press. They was stuck of course. Then proceed to the bearings. Reassemble. West Virginia here an I haven’t seen an easy one yet.
That was oddly therapeutic and eminently satisfying to watch. Love your channel!
this one earns a sub.
Ah, 06 F150 exhaust manifolds are much worse
Good tip! But ya should have warned us to wear our welding hoods. My retinas are screaming.
1 kg of C4 works not bad but should probably do it in parking lot
I just take a 10 # sledge and drop it hard (i.e. smash it) in the flange where the wheel studs go on, rather than pulling it out horizontally like you did, I bash down on it vertically and they pretty much come right off and its very satisfying! LOL 19 year old subaru in Vermont
Just wondering if it would be possible to slide hammer the whole hub off with the axle nut attached after removing the four retaining bolts? Maybe there wouldnt be enough play in the axle to allow this though and I am sure you wouldn't want to pull the axle from the differential or damage the cv joints.
This was so fine there's barely words 👍🔧🙏
Thanks much.
Air hammer the flange, it comes out easy.
What grease did you use on the parking brake shoes. Is it just a white lithium. Back in the day when I was doing brakes we had a special kind of grease but I don't remember what it was called or who made it.
Id like to ask, how many of you know what happens when you ground directly on a bearing housing.
Answer: the current will arc across the balls and races. Thereby inducing erosion from electrical discharge. What you end up with is micro pitting and the bearing is toast. In an application where the bearing is being replaced then its redundant but just thought id fill you in on some hidden phenomenon that occur without you realizing. I've seen guys weld exhausts up while oddly choosing a wheel/driveline component / casing as a ground. This goes for transfer cases, transmissions, etc. Anything with a ball bearing support provision. Pass your current through any of them, and the balls and races within are guaranteed to have little black/brown burnt pits from electrical erosion. Might need a magnifying glass to see it but itll cause bearing failure in short time. Hope this helps make some of you better techs. The worst was when i saw a guy welding on a really nice expensice lathe. Bye bye headstock lol
SO HOLD ON JUST A MINUTE. The Subaru has both caliper AND drum brakes?????? WTH!
Wish i saw this 4 hours ago DIYing it myself. Ended up using a flat chisel and was able to slowly move the whole assembly between the backing plat and the rest of the parts that were staying
Thanks so much for showing people your method, but I bet the younger guys have less patience for your method , but it's much better than A BIGGER HAMMER METHOD😅😅😅
I was able to get my bearing out of the knuckle with just a slide hammer. However I ended up replacing the axle shaft because it is still stuck in the bearing. This is a WA state car. I did heat the besring with a oxy acetylene torch until the grease boiled out. I had a three jaw puller on the hub flange and I was hitting it with a sledge hammer. I still have the axle shaft stuck in the bearing in my shop.
Slick. Spent a day beating two of them out of my outback…and guess what, they are due again. The bolt and mig are the deal…thanks. I can do that. Thanks.
Great work! Greets from Germany!
Rented a slide hammer from a local parts store and used two of the bolts to hold the adapter to the hub. And spent at least an hour as a 300lb man hammering it as hard as I physically could until it broke loose. Ruined the two bolts so obviously had to replace them.
As a former ‘98 Impreza GTT and a ‘99 Impreza GTT owner and DIY’er i can say that the timing belt is no joke as well 🤣🤣 Just like a “simple” 2 minute spark plug job. Thats not applied to a Subaru Boxer engine 😂
Ok, so I have a wheel bearing so stuck that this doesn’t even work…. Any suggestions? I’m thinking about taking the whole knuckle off and soaking it in a tub of evaporust until it comes apart
The reason Moog lists a complete knuckle for the Explorer. Watch techs bend the press on those!
Awesome!
That's a way better way than what I did!
If I remember correctly (it was years ago), I bashed it out from behind the knuckle, barely able to see how it was put together under all the rust.
Can't remember what I had in between the hammer and that little lip to not mangle the knuckle, probably a chisel or a punch or something like that.
Tappy tap all around, many many times, hard! And eventually it started to break loose. That moment when you see it move just a hair, you know you're winning, but there is still a bit to go. Then alternate sides/round and round until it wiggles out.
My dad making unhelpful comments on the side may have helped getting the necessary force in the taps 😅
If you do this, give the next fella a break and lube the new bearing housing lip real good with whatever grease. It's not gonna come out much on the break side anyway.
If I were to do it again, I might just get the whole trailing arm/knuckle from a scrapper.
Another tip, if like me, you're dumb/cheap and just get the bearing without the hub:
Put the hub in a cooler with dry ice for a few hours before putting it in the bearing. Slips right in, no pressing needed.
But you have to be quick and get it right/straight the first time, as it will expand and seize in almost the moment it makes contact.
Two weeks ago it took my local mechanic in Poland 3 days to remove the rear bearing of my old 2007 Ford Transit 🙂
Once you have the hub out, what if you us 2 long bolts where it bolts in and use the slide hammer to get that baby out
You already have a thread in the hub, so what for welding???)) Use reverse hummer with that thread
Now I wanna grab some nuts and go find a Subaru to try this … ☕️😎👍
Have no mechanical experience. Live. In upstate NY and everything is rusted. It took me about 6 hours. Have no lift. Use a giant sledgehammer to get the bearing off. Taking the parking brake off is probably smart so you can see your 4 bolts line up.
Thank you for your videos i really enjoy them. I have to do this on a2018 crostrek Wosh me luck.
I just noticed you have teeth braces! You go old man!!!
You could have achived the same results by heating the hub, cool with water and then hit it with air hammer. That's what I do and it always work. But your method is quite original, like an artist. 😀
Interesting way to do rear hubs. I clean the knuckles too, clean the axle splines lube the knuckles where the hub is pressed in as well as the axle splines. Also I have gotten lucky breaking the 4 14mm hub nuts like 1/4 turn pb blast then take off the axle nut. Shocking the hub and letting pb penatrate as it vibrates. And in the rear of the backing plate are 2 places you can use as wedge Points and in the front of the hub too.
hey Who made the pliers?
Nicely done 👍
And the front lower control arms also are a pain but with the right tools and imagination you can also make it E Z, im from RI i also know a thing o 2 of stuck parts/bolts/nuts and every modern mini van with chrysler blood in it the flex pipe job uffffff now its a bit fast for me but b4 man it was crazy.
I beat my 2012 legacy wheel bearings with a lump hammer till I worked them all the way out. Did it in my driveway on a Jack and stand. I even left the ebrake assembly in. 96,000 miles on Long Island NY. I let my mechanic do one and he said what a horrible job it was. I did the other three and honestly I beat the SOBs out in all of 2 hours. I just did my rear axles on Sunday. Lucky those baby’s slid right out with no problem. It’s only been about 2000 miles since I did the bearings. Oh and I soaked everything with Kroil for about an hour. Kroil is KING!!
My only question would be: How Much Was The Final Bill For Both Sides With New Breaks and Rotors? I would Have had Someone Do It Here In Massachusetts But I Think It Would Have Cost Many Thousands and Other Than SUBARU Like You Said I would Get Charged For All The Damage a Moron Would Do Plus All The Waisted Time In Learning With Trial And Error.
Looking At the Rotor Shields On That Forester They Had to have been Replaced! Mine Look Like They Came Out Of The Ocean after 20 Years.
Awesome Video! Before Attempting To Do This Repair READ
I just Yesterday replaced the driver rear on a 2014 Forester XT with 114K Miles in New England All Its Life! I watched many videos making it look EZ before finding this Video during the replacement! My Forester looks Worse than any of all the Videos on Youtube With Rust! My Rotor Shields are Like Swiss Cheese So I knew I was in For A Challenge!
I Don't Have a Welder or a lift and This Was The Only Video That the Hub Disconnected Exposing the inner bearings like It did to me so I was very concerned how to get the flange off with nothing to pull on! I Didn't Have The Puller In this Video! I Made One 😁
In the Comments One Person said to use a chisel behind the backing plate So I started with a huge chisel having no luck and the tried a very small chisel and after a number of hits with a Small sledge hammer I could see a little Gap and Light knowing I had Started I used the Chisel on the other side and began hitting the lower flange on the Bottom with the chisel Still In on the top working it out even and Slow not to damage anything. The Best Advise To Anyone Is FIRST Get the OEM Genuine Parts and Install The Best Quality That Will Last because Your Not going to want to do this over in 15K miles and Your Going To need Impact wrenches for some of the Bolts If they have Been in there for a 100K miles and 10 years! The (4) inner bolts that hold the Hub are a Shoulder bolt and weather the bolt backs out or the head snaps off you can still pull the flange thru. All Mine Backed Out fine with the Impact gun after lots and lots of hammering, I have a Smaller Ingersoll Rand that got 3 out but needed a larger one with bigger hammers to get the last one to budge and I had Used Penetrating Oil A Day Before!
Because It Is Still Warm I Plan to Do the Other Side Before The Winter and I Do Have a Garage (Not Heated) This Was Not A Job To Do In A Driveway With A Box of Ocean State Job Lot Tools and Yes Like Eric Said and Comments Posted You Can Destroy Other Things While Replacing This! You Need Lots Of Time and Patents! One Video Shows That the Mechanics Time Allotment is 1.4 hours Start To Finish! Ya OK? Maybe On A brand new Vehicle And If like One Person Said They Had to Remove the Entire Rear Assembly And Bring It to a Machine Shop That took 7 Business days.
Eric also Mentioned To Question The Mechanic As to Weather They Have Done This Job because Whatever they destroy they Will Charge you For and as They Spend Extra Hours Learning You Get The Labor Charges! I Can Now Do This in about 1/3rd The Time It Took The First Time If The Passenger Side Is Not Even More Difficult? I Know Now That All I need To Do is Spray The Backing Plate and Let It Get In there and Just Use a chisel and Not Use any Pullers On the Studs, Yes That will Work If You Have only 50K miles But With 100K It will Just Pull The Guts Out and the Flange will Stay Seized.
Watching Eric Was Not Only Entertaining and Honest But That Job Was Done Like A True Professional! I am an Industrial Automation Technician/Mechanic And NO Rust So its always a Smooth Repair! To Spend $70.000 on a Vehicle Living In the Rust Belt Is Like Flushing Money Down The Drain! I would Like Less Bells and Whistles and More Stainless Lines and Under Carriage Protection but its all Exposed steel to Rust out at 100K miles So Your Car is Trash Just Over The Extended Warrantee So The $18.000 Car Is What You Want! I have a 1995 AWD LT Astro Van With 50K miles and 18 Cans Of Undercoating Garaged that will Out last Me at a cost of $5,600.00.. Undercoat it Before It Rusts Or Your Milking A Dead Cow.
Thank You So Much For The Great Video and remember that a Small 3/8ths inch chisel hammered in behind the backing plate Slow and Straight and 30 Minutes its OUT!
Also: Be Sure To Use Anti Seize On Every Surface after Cleaning So That When You Need To Replace it again It Will Come Out Like Butter Should You Hold On to the Car Wanting 300k miles because Sometimes the Genuine Bearings Only Last 50K miles.
When I seen TIMKEN makes a Bearing I was Going To Get that Over Genuine Subaru because they make Industrial Bearings That Are Beyond Quality But The Replacement for Subaru is Some Chinese Trash in a Timken Box That Gets Noisy At 15K miles. I have Had 5 Astro Vans That Went 500K miles and Rusted Out But the Bearings Where All Original So What's Up With These New Cars? Oh! I Know! You Got a Heated Seat With Lumbar Massage to Comfort Your Wallet For Future Repairs that Cost Thousands!
I remember spending 6 fucking hours on a subaru impreza rear wheel bearing. The whole shop cheered when we got it off.
i guess i can forget my method of mangling the backing plate with the air hammer
Looks like you can use some stronger rubbers lol.
You wanna go to war BaLake🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 am for real….am for real, so ya better check yourself!
I do most work on my cars, but after watching this and a few other videos on how to remove stuck forester rear bearings and seeing just how crazy stuck they get, decided to let the shop do it…..
love the Coach hines reference
I've heard that when replacing a Forester rear wheel bearing, a Legacy bearing can be used. This is larger but will still fit) and will last longer. Can anyone conform this.
Jack, the Japan Alps Brit.
I had to do a front wheel bearing on an 02’ Silverado in like 05’. I was just a kid at the time, my technique was to swing a sledge hammer at it for about 4 hours. It finally popped out. I probably would do that here too. Unless I had a welder.
Mr. O the Pro won the War with some Key techniques and Peeled that bugger right outta there. There is no Substitute. Another fine video!
Stay gold.
This is just as good as most TV shows.
Didn’t never seize the four bolts. I never seize everything because I am the guy who is taking it apart years down the road.
I just did both rears on my 2013 Subaru and I just said screw it and pulled the whole knuckle out and hammered it out with a 10lb sledgehammer. Propping up the knuckle so it was suspended took a little creative thinking but once it was up it took a few hits with a large impact socket and the hammer and it came right out.
Love your video. Please protect you lungs though.
Ok this worked for me with my wife's 2015 Subaru Impreza. It didn't pull it from the knuckle as easily as in your video but it did break it loose enough to work it out with an air hammer easy enough. Thanks for the great video and this saved me hours if not days of work.
Damn, that is a real mother and a half. Honestly, if I had to do one of those myself, I probably wouldn’t get the welder just because I hate like hell they have to give it to somebody and have them do it.
I used to use an air chisel in situation like this. Most of the times it works
Let me preface this with the fact that I have never done this before but have you ever tried the slide hammer on the base of the bearing using the same device you used to pull off the portion with the studs, putting the same bolts removed from the rear on from the front (the outside) and using the slide hammer and puller? I do not have a welder nor have I ever welded before. I'm not trying to tell you what to do I was just wondering if you think it might work for a shadetree mechanic like myself.
Great video! I've had good success punching out a wheel stud and using the old bolt technique- but I weld the hub to the bearing case so it doesn't pull apart. Very similar
I could see a solid bar with two mounting holes and a jack hole. If you did these enough it would be worth the trouble to make it. Would work for lefts and rights.
Hey erie i want to thank you for the information . I did what you said and the way you welded the nuts on . And it does work. I did not even throw a tool. So any way thank you so very much.
Did one of these on our '13 Crosstrek, no special tools, just beat the hell out of the hub flange for a while, and eventually it gave up and let go its grip on the knuckle. It wasn't pretty and there was swearing, but we got it done in one night. The parking drum brake gave me more mental grief.
Yeah the best thing about a Subaru you just scrap the sucker and get a new one taking back to the junkyard you bought it from yes most people won't like what I tell you but it's the truth there junkyard cars just like all the Japanese cars
Ohh same problem was my 06 jaguar s type rear bearings cant unremove ı decide reassemble 2 rear shafts and move to heavy press machine company they remove but ı almost heartattack after this ı replace every 3 year because of this fear
Why not bathe that knuckle in anti-seize
Out of curiosity from a southern subaru dealer tech. What do you charge for that job? I think book is roughly 1 hour. But to me that doesn't take in to consideration you disassembling the parking brake and welding. Since we're not in the rust belt we dont run into rusted and seized fasteners much. Just curious if y'all charge more for the extra work. And bless y'all for having the patience to deal with that.
I did this with my buddy today, and was absolutely amazed how stuck that hub was. We beat the snot out of the hub with a sledge, did a couple hundred whacks with a 5lb slide hammer, and hammered in a chisel from the side. When we do the other side I’m breaking out the welder!
Builders too lazy to put a bit of anti seize.
I will give it a try. It is a challenge to seek.
Eric, I'm just wondering. On that Subaru rear axle bearing so hard to get out. Why didn't you put some Lube in that housing where the bearing sits and some loop on the bearing. So I'll go in easier.
I removed the whole hub and dropped at a garage. Can't remember if I got the cv joint out or not but was done all same day for price of a case of beers about a decade ago
It's not just a right tools. it's the right guy too
Awesome
Just completed replacement of all 4 rustbelt bearings after originals went at 104k. Learned a lot and used floor jacks in my garage. Would be nice to have a MIG like that, nice method. I used a small sledge and cold chisels. Both front and rear have sweet spots between bearing housing and steering knuckle for the best removal. Can only imagine how much $$$$ a garge would've charged.