And taking a look at our clutch material that's not looking much better. I mean openings. You could use our brake rotor. There was a great Rudder All right, let's go ahead and get the clutch basket and clutch pack removed so we can get the uh, the flywheel removed.

Pull these guys out! I'll get the top ones since I Can't really see them look at those first for more first. Where is it there? We got to save those lock washers. Those are important. And the bolts because I these are all standard size.

It's gonna be hard to find new ones. There you go. That one that one. I think I got one more at the bottom here.

Yep, she's coming loose. Come on out of there heavy. Look at that flywheel. It's not looking happy.

That's not happy at all. Look at that. That's wild. Yeah, let's get some Zoom action on this thing.

It's got a mirror finish. There's all kinds of cracks in it. It's called heat checking, but it's cracked hot spotted here here here here here everywhere. Yeah, that flywheel has a very poor surface.

Not looking good. Taking a look down at our clutch material that's not looking the greatest either. It's it's pretty worn. Yeah, the look right there.

One of the rivets is almost flush with the friction material. See what that other side looks like? Flip her over. Okay, we went metal on metal. On the other side of the friction material, see that this is like a brake rotor.

hot spotted and scored up. And we're metal to metal on. uh, on these rivets. right here.

So yeah, this clutch is 100 worn out, the flywheel, get rid of that is 100 worn out and uh, and the teeth are damaged and the starter is damaged. All right, let's go ahead and get this flywheel removed, six bolts. it's a heavy little guy rear. here we go.

I'm not gonna pull that out until I've got a good uh, good hand hold on it, pushing forward on it, making sure that I have no extremities. but no in case it falls because if it does, I won't be able to catch it. two hands there. we go heavy, you know, there's a lot of oil and whatnot, kind of back here and I see some, uh, some oil on this crankshaft seal right there.

So I think I'm going to go ahead and order a replacement seal to uh to drive in while I've got this thing apart I In hindsight, I should have done that earlier, but I didn't really think about it. Um, yeah, it's probably got an oil pan that's also leaking, but uh, that can be done without pulling the trans out. So we're going to go ahead and put that uh, that crankshaft seal in there and that'll complete this side of the repair. So I've got to get that ordered.

Um. in the meantime, since I don't have any more parts to continue disassembly on the engine, let's go ahead and pull that drive shaft and see what I can do about knocking out those U-joints because I do have a set of U-joints here. So let's see, we'll grab our shaft and I Suppose we'll do the damaged in first since that one's the uh, the most destroyed and then we can switch out to the less damaged one afterwards. Make sense it does to me.

It's got that guy right there on the Vise there go. And now we got uh, some better access to work with this. So it looks like we've got to pull these circlips out and then we'll get, uh, loud noises we get like the ball joint press, uh, maybe some lube and a hammer and we can knock things out these shoes. So let's do this.

Slide that all the way down so it's in its most stable position. here. We get her set up in the Vise not so much where we crush the drive shaft. We just need to kind of hang on to it.

That'll give us a good stable platform to work with. Okay, so here's how I want to do this. See how we have all this rust and uh, National just built up on those circlips, right? We'll put a socket over them. Just gonna give it a couple taps with the hammer here to, uh, maybe try to break that loose a little bit and get them to start to come free.

Those are rusted in there. Pretty good look at that. just have to kind of keep working them. Eventually they'll come out.

Gonna make a liar out of me Clips: I Don't like to be made a liar out of pliers need there's you have to employ multiple methods to dig these guys out of pliers. There we go. see all that. hitting it with a hammer did break it free, see how it came loose out of its little.

Groove Watch this go in there. the pocket driver, pop that unit right out. there. we go.

So now we can rotate it and repeat. and then we can work on driving these U-joint cups out of their uh, other board Hey Look, it's even got a grease fitting on it right there. I wonder if we grease, it 'll work any better? Oh that is. That's so bad.

Cross thematic. All right, let's get this thing pressed out of here. All right, we'll change the plans. uh I Seem to have misplaced my ball joint press.

so I'm gonna try to do this with a tie rod puller to like figure out where it went. I Think I Let Somebody borrow it and it's uh, it's not around. so I'll try this pitman arm Fuller It seems to fit in there and I'll use that uh, that nut right there. It's kind of like a spacer so what we'll do is we'll tighten this guy down and it's going to push those uh, those U-joint cups out from their position where it should I Hope it does.

It's either going to work or it's not. Let's try that. Yeah I Don't know if it's going to work out or not because this is like 100 not the appropriate tool. Maybe it'll work, Maybe it won't.

It's not gonna work I'm up a creek. a deep one. Yeah, it's not working. Dyson Okay, let's try this one.

I don't know if this is gonna work in the slightest. I've never done these with the wrong color before that end up over on the Press it's not working. Oh never mind. I Stand corrected.

it was working. It was coming out. See, Press it out right there. Now what I need to do is get it to press out through that bottom at the same time so we'll push more on this top part.

It'll pull this uh, front yoke away from the bottom and then we can get the bottom cup out, then flip it around and get that other cup out. So this is gonna work. Okay, yes, I was full of Doom in my heart as soon as I saw that that. I'm not saying this is the right tool for the job here, but it works.

It works There we go. Pulled out awesome, mostly mostly out, and now it's falling apart. There we go. Yeah, that's what we wanted.

disintegration. Okay, so before this gets all mixed up, I'm going to reference where this thing goes. That way, it can go back in the same spot. So here I'll just etch and X into it.

There we go. There's our horrible X and there's another horrible X there. So now we know the X's line up. That's the way that that's gonna go now.

Same procedure. We'll put our incorrect press on the flange ears and push that U-joint out of its home sideways. I Can Yeah, that's why I didn't want to use this. Maybe this little guy will work.

Try that one. The other one had a lot of, uh, a lot of play in it. Let's try this shorter one here. It's either gonna work or it's not.

I mean I could bash the thing out with a hammer. That might also uh, trick. but I don't like doing that because you can break the drive shaft and that's not okay on there. Send it.

Don't send it. Send it sideways. New battery I Don't think this is. uh, it's not going.

There's kind of a taper on this one and see that it's not okay. Okay, need to escalate this to a uh, the method I didn't want to utilize and that's going to be the hammer. Okay, escalating. Get some safety.

uh, ears on. If this is gonna be loud. Yeah, this is gonna work. You're gonna come out of there or what? I said.

it's coming out. Got it good? So now let's take a wire brush real quick, clean out all that nasty in there and make this, uh, a nice good surface again. I'll get it up. I'll get a wire brush on a drill too to get the bar cleaned up a little bit.

Just want to get all that dirt and grime and rust and grease and nasty out because if it gets caught in the new U-joints that could be an issue I don't want to deal with there. We go here. We'll use a flap wheel there we go just to clean all that out on the inside. Nothing crazy.

We're Not Gonna bore the thing out. gonna clean it up around. hit it again. Very good.

Nice. I Like it? yeah. Okie dokes. Let's get our new U-joints prepped up.

I've got to install the uh, the grease fitting here. Let's twist that guy in, tighten that down. no crazy torque on these. We don't want to break them off, right? We go.

Okay, so we're only going to be installing one side first. So what? I'm going to do: Pull these caps away that way they don't fall off and let all the needle bearings fall out because that would not be okay. Show: I think I'm gonna do the grease fitting facing backwards. So what? I need to do here just very carefully.

This Guy's in position. They kind of have to go in simultaneously because we've got to have the cap over over the shaft and the U-joint and that's going to help to locate the bearings. Now, since we're here at the Vise, you can use the Vise to press these in. Preliminarily Okay, so what I'll do is get this thing up here in position.

Bear with me here folks. Bear with me. So the U-joint is in the needle bearings on this side's cap. You guys see that.

So this U-joint is pressed into the needle bearings on this cap. Over here, they have not contacted the other side and what I'm going to do is just run this Vise in and tighten these down until it presses the cap into the ears. Very slowly the presses it in, start to line up the needle bearings and uh, foreign that out some it's a little bit off center I can see it I should be able to slide this between the two caps and I looked over and wasn't recording. So basically what I've done here is I've taken the two shafts, line them up with the needle bearings inside of the caps on either side of the ears.

see all those bearings in there. You want to get these shafts barely lined up and then continue to press with the Uh with the Vise and we can see here the Caps are now flush with the ears, but they're not bottomed out just yet. That's what the short clips are going to be for. So what we do is back this guy out again and I'm gonna take one of the old caps and just use it as a shim to press in this one side cap over here.

This side can't press any farther because again, it's flush but the cap on your left my right. Let me get this set up real quick here. This one will be able to go in a little farther. So tighten the Vise down, press that cap in.

it's off center and it's on the ground. It's off center and on the ground. I Don't know. Again, centered up, tighten it down.

All right. Here we go. Now it's going to press. see it moving in.

We don't want to go too far I only need enough space in there to get the circlip in. So I'm going to back it off and we're going to check the Gap It looks like I can go a little bit farther with this one going back in. Okay, and I think that's enough to get my clip to become seated. Looks like it.

Okay so now that are feeling this Doom of uncertainty because I don't have a ball joint, press let's get our energy back up and get that circlip in. Now if I went too far with that cap that is of no matcher because once I press this other cap in, it'll push this one back out against the circlip and then uh, that's how we know it's centered properly. So I'll repeat with the other side. The cap over here with the circlip will remain flush against the side of the Vise and then this other cap will be used to shim and fresh in the current cap.

No caps here we go. Begin: Press Now. Okay, something happened some up in here. This isn't good.

look I can't uh I can't get this thing to seat all the way. That means one of the needleberries fell out and it's laying at the bottom of the cup. This is exactly what we did not want to do. so I need to take it apart and uh, try again, see if I can get this out.

The exact thing that we did not want to happen has just taken place. So what are you doing? Ring this Bell and do this again. Love my job so much I'll do it twice. Try this again here.

Set this guy Up Down in the Hole U-joint coming in or cap coming in rather I actually stole this cap off of my other U-joints because upon closer inspection, it turns out I broke. Thank you that uh, that needle bearing. So since I'm doing it wrong, we're going to press this one side at a time, slip and do both simultaneously. as long as I got it all lined up and I was wrong.

So I just uh paid the price. So now I'm short one U-joint Which is actually okay because that U-joint was missing. It's a hardware package which came with the circlips and with its uh, dirt fitting, it came open box. So just steal the Caps out of that one and then return it all right? So I gotta keep these aligned right again.

Now the U-joint is contacting both sets of needle bearings and we want to keep it that way. Let's make sure. Yep, see that, See how it's uh, slides freely between the two sides and when you did that first time I had to I had screwed it up. see how it's still moving around? That's what we need Now we'll go back to where we left off before we broke it, going back with our old cap, using it as a tool to press.

But that's about right. No, it's not I need more? You say you want more? There we go. There's more a little bit too much, but I'll live with it. Let's get the circlip in.

get that guy snapped into its home, see how loose that fits? That's okay, because when we press the other side here, it'll push this one back against the uh, the circlip. Okay, flip from this unit over. Let's repress this side. put that guy in tighter down, press it in a little tighter than I.

Wanted to kind of push the other side back and let's check the other side and see if it pushed it against the clip or not. The clip should be. Nope. See how loose that is? Still gotta go a little farther.

Continuing pressing coming in. Get in there please. Okay, that's seated very nicely. Now we can recheck the U-joint Make sure it turns, which still a little tight.

so look here. see how we're pressing out on that circlip. We went a little too tight on this side, so let's adjust it. foreign.

So we're going to adjust that little circlip back. Let's give it a bit of a press. I went too far. We're gonna give it a press and it's going to push back, take pressure off this clip, push this U-joint down and put pressure on that one.

Whoa. Don't go anywhere. Get in there. There we go.

It's not really one of those like send it kind of jobs, so I'm paying really close attention right here. As soon as that moves as I tighten it I think we're good loose. The circlip is relaxed. it's not sticking out now that one's sticking out some.

So we're just going to use the hammer to adjust these. We're uh, we're pretty close. Let's try to open the flat side. Foreign.

So good. Okay, so this thing still feels a little tight to me. so what we're gonna do? and it's still a little bit tight so we need to loosen it up a little bit. Now we can't hammer on both sides because it just re-tights the other side.

But what I can do is tap on these other cups a little sideways. See that a couple Taps down on both sides that frees it up. Now let's flip it, tap it again and that's going to put work on the bottom. You can't just bash the crap out of it because we'll break things, but we can tap it slightly and that's going to seat both of these caps that are already installed against their circlips so they're not going out.

but they're still making good contact and that thing is now centered and ready to rock. Okay, let's get the yolk in I need to. uh, give it a little bit of a cleaning action here. We still have some dirt inside.

Polish that out real fast. Like there you go. Nice and shiny and de-crustified Okay, so here's our X here's the ax we made. That means this is referenced into this direction.

We'll pull our caps back off and repeat the same procedure. sort of what I'm going to do think, see how this is going to work out best? Yeah, I should do this. Yeah, like. So that's what I'm gonna do I'll press the one in and then press the second one in just like we did on the second.

go around on the first view joint there. Get this guy tight. Okay, it slipped out. Something's not right.

I may have dropped a uh, a needle bearing already foreign out of it. Let's check. Yep, sure. did a couple of them.

Yeah, looky here. I Dropped a couple of them out and got them sideways. but I can straighten them out. We'll go in there with a pocket driver.

Just put them back where they go and everybody's looking good. Okay, crisis averted temporarily. Let's sneak this thing back in very carefully. Come on.

slide over those bearings. Hey man, let's sit up again there. Okay, we're starting to run a little sideways here. Let me, let's take it Loose again and re-center our little shim cap thing over there.

I Hope that this spice twists up just a little bit as well. but I'm loading it off to the side. not not so much. straight on.

That stuff makes a difference sometimes. This is one of those times because this is a Precision pressing with out Precision press instruments. let's go a little farther. There it goes.

Yepper let's line it up. I Don't want to do that. Let's line it up again. I Fear every little jostle because I don't want to lose these bearings again.

That would displease me. Got a hold of me now pressing it in. Okay, that one's good. It bottoms out.

That's good. Excellent. So now the hard part. let's get the last U-joint in position here, just in case there's any dust.

What? I Need to do? Slide this joint over almost away from the needle bearings on the other side. Enough to get this side to capture. This is where we get kind of dangerous. One error here and it's going to cost me just one error away.

So far, everything's lined up. feels good. That might have been the arrow right there. just want to find out and send it home.

see what happens. I think we're good? Okay, okay, we bottomed out all right, but that should be enough to, uh, keep the bearings from falling out. So let's double check it real quick. So far so good.

You can see the dust boots, they line up and they sit flush with their mating surface on on the U-joint So I think we're we're looking pretty good. Let's finish the Press for cap coming in, trying her down, press it in Undo It line it up, press it in and I need more. Don't have enough space for the the groove and the circlip. Okay, pull them back in.

Yeah, that was probably too far and it was, but we knew how to work around that. Now don't we? Okay, clipped in. let's rotate it around, press this other one in and then we'll give it some some Mallet Taps to even it all out to make sure it's centered. and of course, check and make sure it's free and not binding.

We don't want to do that. no binding necessary. Fifth numeral Patrol Ram it Dodge Ram It Okay, now that's a little tight, right? No matter is, all we need to do is, give this a few Hammer Taps and it's all going to loosen right back up. Okay, that's good.

that's good. Let's go. let's go down this way first and we'll flip it around. Get out of this.

Check it out. One replaced universal joint with no broken needle bearings. Great all right guys. So we're on a parts hold for that crankshaft seal and uh, I've got to order one more.

uh, universal joint because I broke a bearing in one of these. Caps Plus I was missing the uh, the hardware kit it came with the other unit so one of them is going to get sent back. Uh, that's going to be the one for the back of the drive shaft over here. So I'm missing two parts right now before we can proceed again, the rear main seal for the engine and the other, uh, other U-joints So having said that, I have no more work to do on this particular truck.

Therefore, I have no more work to record for this particular video. So I have no choice but to go ahead and close this video up right now. I Will do such things as always by thanking each and every one of you guys for watching this video. Certainly hope you enjoyed this video if you did enjoy this video of this bird.

F-150 Please feel free to let me know about that in the comments section down below. Tap that like button while you're down there. And most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video in a transmission and deferred F-150 XL In a drive shaft in a view joint and a clutch job in the transmission.