Man, this is getting wild around here. Look, we got muscle Car Madness We got a 98 Ford Mustang 46 GT that's a Monte Carlo Super Sport with a 5-3 LS4 V8 in that thing. Then we got a Hemi Doge charger over here. We got my thousand horsepower Silverado right there.

Then there's another Ford Mustang GT probably a four six and then another charger over here. It's like muscle car Madness at my shop today, but we're gonna work on this black. Mustang Let's see what year do we have? How about a build date of 2008 of O2? So this is a 2002, maybe a 2003. but O2 Ford Mustang GT sounds like a V8 and it has approximately 154 400.9 miles on the odometer hot in here.

Customer: States A bunch of stuff they say when you fill it with fuel, the fuel will spill out of the fuel tank. Uh, something about an EVAP leak. even though I don't have a service engine light. uh, they said AC compressor so let's see if the AC works and then somewhere in the mix there is a steering leak.

So uh I think what we're gonna do is we're gonna go out drive this thing around. Uh, get a feel for how it rides and operates and all that good stuff. We'll see if the AC stays cold while we're out and then we'll bring it back in, get it up on the rack, and then do a visual inspection of the undercarriage and look for that leak. It's not like a plan I think it does, so stay tuned because this is gonna be A very good Mustang Muscle Car Video: Let's get out on the road here and see how this thing feels and drives and operates outer than the red.

Mustang For now, let's call it foreshadowing. Drive's pretty good runs and ships and the engine feels strong. Okay, let's see how do our brakes feel right? So far, so good. Front end's a little bouncy.

Let's go over the bridge, pick up some speed by the time we're done circling the bridge. The AC should have told me all that I need to know about it and then, uh, we'll get that inspection complete. Okey-doke So my engine temp is up. That tells me we are free to release some test drive horsepowers.

nice and strong. Okay, so we don't have any drivability issues here. We have climate control issues and uh, probably some leaks. All right.

we're pulling back in. the AC feels good. So I'm not sure what's up with, uh, my complaint on the compressor. See if I can't squeeze on through here.

No space, all right in the shop we go. We're gonna have to use the big rack in the corner because the little racks are occupied with other stuff. Let's see here. let's just uh, refrigerator right over there looking good.

Let's park ourselves right here. Driver on the lift post. that's the center of gravity I'm gonna throw this guy in park and let us pop. see Hood See what's going on with this thing? I'm going to leave it running and toss the temp gauge in the vents just to get a preliminary reading on the AC temperature your beginning thermal probing.

Now let's just stick that guy Down in the Hole there and it will tell us what our temperatures are going to land at. We'll check back out on that thing in a minute. Let's Let It Stabilize. See what our engine compartment is looking like here? All right.

So taking a quick luminary look around the hood here, we can see that the AC compressor right down there is compressing so it is making cold that's not looking too great. Might be a small bit of a coolant leak that's evidence to coolant right there. Coolant's been here. Let's see if we can get into the tank.

it starts to overflow. I'll stop but it's not too hot right now. I think I can uh I can open this up right in there either Steve Okay, check our power steering. They said something about a steering leak that's a little low.

right brake fluid. What do we got to tell? Not looking that good? Let's see the air filters in there somewhere that's custom. Let's see a little bit of coolant around here. Thermostat housing would appears somebody's already made a repair attempt, so I would consider that path to it.

and I'm wondering about this radiator. Okay, the battery and battery terminals look pretty good according to our sticker. We have MSD ignition coils. they're legal in California So we've got some performance coils installed.

Okay, let's check our Center vent temp again. Now this is with the window open and we're stationary, but we're right there at 50 degrees the glare out of there. Yeah, 50 degrees. That's pretty good.

All right. let's go ahead and shut her down. So I'm wondering what the issue is with the compressor. They said check compressor but it's making decent air.

So here's the thing. when in doubt: I Just inspect everything and then deliver all possible information. So preliminarily, I think what we're going to do is just uh. well, we're going to inspect everything we'll Pretend This is a pre-purchase inspection or a used car purchase.

That's something to look for all the time too. torn wiper blade ends. Got one right here. How's that one doing? Yeah, that one's torn.

All right. see used car inspection details wiper blades. Let's go ahead and hit our green subscribe button. Come here.

I'll raise this thing up I've already set the rack when you guys weren't looking. We'll take a look uh at the undercarriage next. I'm looking for a leak I Suppose we can check that compressor for the leak as well. all the way up all the way up.

Achieved down on the locks for safety coming down all right real quick through the wheel. brake inspection. see what those uh pads in there are looking like? What do we get? Do we see anything? Yeah, right right there. I See some.

We got about four to five thirty seconds of an inch lift on that outboard. can't see the inboard, the ball joints looking toast. see that the boot is torn away so it's just the ball kind of hanging out. All right.

and we're looking for a leak. I Think we have a leak? I Think we have a compressor seal leak. Yeah, there's oil and whatnot right around here behind this. uh compressor clutch.

Okay, here's what we'll do I have a stick light. It serves as an inspection light. so we've got bright lumens that side right lumens on that side, but also has a feature where it has a ultraviolet emitting black light. You see that right there.

But watch this. What's going to happen is if there is a leak here, it will be illuminated a bright green with this ultraviolet light and we can see right back there. huge concentration of ultraviolet reactive dye on the back side of this compressor clutch. So that suggests to me and I would be confident in assuming that this compressor has a leaking seal behind the clutch.

so that validates that. Oh, look at here, there's more of it. See that there's more dye at that fitting right there. You can see the The Illuminating green.

Yeah. See if it's coming out and it's tough to tell that's just o-ring seals in there so not too difficult to disassemble and replace those. See what else we get here? I Don't think there's any other any other refrigerant leaks present. I Can't really be much on the condenser that's on the front side of the radiator.

Okay, that looks good. Continuing on, we have looks like a power steering pump leaking. See that? Let's see, it's fluid. It's probably coming out of the shaft.

Yep, sure enough, right there. see the shaft on that pump that's got a bunch of fluid saturation right in there. Okay, so we have a leaking power steering pump. Can't tell if the oil Center is leaking or not and what else is leaking week? And this looks like a leak at the Bellows boot or at the seal behind the Bellows on the steering gear as well.

Oh that. that's also a leaker. Yeah, we see a drip right here. Smells like power steering.

Yeah, that's got a leak as well. So we got a compressor leak. We have a power steering pump leak and we've got a steering gear leak. not to mention two worn out ball joints.

See that? Yeah, that one's not any good either. and I can't tell if that's a leaker or not. Okay, that's the sway bar bushing. See that guy? That thing's torn.

So yeah, we need to. Uh, we need to do some refresh action on this Mustang. right here. Okay, let's go back and take a look see what else we can, uh, possibly locate the plug for a output speed uh, sensor right there or like a gear and there's an O-ring behind that.

Real simple fix. You just, uh, unplug that, change the O-ring and plug it back in. but that's the transmission leak out back at our axle. Shocks look good.

Rear brakes those look decent. Rotors look decent. This shock looks good. Okay, so I think most of what we need to worry about on this Mustang is going to be up front.

That's uh. we've got a few leaks to button up three or four of those and I think that'll about do it. Yeah, Oh, look at that more coolant. Something's been leaking out of this radiator.

Absolutely. let's let it down and double check one more time. Mustang Coming down, please subscribe button. Going back up, Release the locks all the way down rib cage.

Style I've only got so many hands. three that's not safe. Alrighty, so revisiting up top again. I See no liquid anywhere on this radiator.

It looks like coolant was kind of running down right here, but the problem is, is that super dry right now? I'm wondering if it doesn't actually have some kind of a leak, but perhaps it overheated at some point and then boiled over through the cap and then the cap. Let go because I Don't think that there's a drain on this. This is a closed system, so if, uh, if this thing had to vent, it would have had to have vented out of the cap which then would have cascaded and spilled all the coolant down in this area. and if that coolant contained side, it would have stained things that it contacted.

So let's figure that out right now. let us pressure test that cooling system real fast just to make sure we don't have a leak. Perhaps the tank has a crack in it and it is expanding. when it becomes hot and then it leaks.

that's also a possibility right now. it's cool-ish so the crack is sealed and we cannot tell I think that's the one. It's a screw-on adapter for the birds. Get bird, screw that guy in cap.

click. Then we'll grab our little pump right here. Rear Bicycle pump: Take the business end of our hose. it's got a quick disconnect.

Connect that to the surge tank and we Pump It Up There we go. Maximum cooling system pressure achieved. We're at about 18 PSI in the system. Alrighty.

So at 18 pounds, the system is fully pressurized. Let's just start with what we can see. One thing I can see is this swollen looking hose right here. See that a little weird radiator Motorcraft Okay, so these uh, might be the original hoses so that thing is swollen I don't really care for that.

That means that the lower hose is probably in a similar condition. I Do see a new clamp on it down there, but it also has marks right here that could indicate that that's a factory hose as possible. Yeah, that one says Motorcraft down there too. All right.

I Don't see any liquid coming out from the side of the radiator from down below. see nothing's ripping and nothing on top of this upper rail here. nor do I see any around the tank. So one could assume that perhaps Cap is faulty and it relieves coolant pressure when it shouldn't be.

or this is from some other events unknown to me at this time. So let's go ahead and depressurize this. I need to run inside, get this thing estimated, and uh, make a determination on the path moving forward from there. I'm also going to suggest a belt here.

There's some frays in it right there phrase on the back side and it looks a little discolored. Plus, we're taking it off for the clutch. Okay, all right. so there's one more thing that caught my attention on this car.

and look at here. when you key this thing on, we do not get a self-check with the check engine light so that light bulb is either out or it's been disabled. I I'm not really liking that. I've got the scan tool here with me.

Let's plug this thing in, power it on, beep and I'm gonna check for some trouble codes in this thing because it might have one. I Noticed earlier when running and revving it when I was revving other people's engines. it sounded a little rough. so I uh I'm wondering if it's got some misfires or something like that going on.

Let's check it for trouble codes real quick before I turned in this inspection. All right, we've got her pulled up 2003 Ford Mustang 4.6 liter V8 single overhead cam. it's a soak. Let's go ahead and check for engine codes: Powertrain Automatic Transmission with Air Conditioning current codes Anything in here memory? Yeah, yeah.

Ah, we do have some coats here. Look at that P1132 heated oxygen sensor Bank One Sensor One indicates Rich and P1152 HO2 Bank 2 sensor 1 indicates Rich. Interesting I Wonder what it could be okay pulling up our fuel trims. let's see what we've got for short terms and long terms on the fuel trims.

All right. Bank one and Bank two long terms are showing us the value right around 10. here and here, let's give it some throttle and see if that's going to change any. All right, Long terms do adjust slightly okay, and our short terms, they're hovering around zero.

I'm wondering why we had, uh, we got those codes. 410 is kind of within spec on our long terms and short terms hanging out around Zero, telling us everything is, uh, in functioning as designed right now. let's go back up to our long-term trims one more time. Yeah, hanging out at 10 at idle, give us some throttle, see what it does.

All right, All right. So we're out here under the hood and we've got an air fuel ratio issue going on according to those trouble codes and I'm immediately gonna have to pay attention to this intake because we can see that that fitment is not the greatest and I'm wondering if this thing has some kind of air leak going on and this is causing or potentially causing some of those trouble codes. So I'm just going to tighten all this stuff up, make sure that these hoses are are leak free and tight, and then we're going to go back and run this again and try to recheck uh, our fuel trims and those trouble codes. Mostly just the fuel trims here.

take that loose. Yeah, that one. That one nearly fell out. So all of this stuff is aft or Downstream rather of the mass airflow sensor.

Therefore, there's a leak that's going to skew the air fuel ratio measurements. So what we need to do here is make sure that this thing goes in all the way. This is very similar to the uh, the other Mustang that I just worked on the other day, the red one which is still here for some additional work. It's behind me right now on the lift.

A slightly different intake design, but it's also a very similar intake design. Just a different company. Just make sure that's tight. see that this one similar condition.

It had a lot of play and motion in it and I think it could have been a potential leaker as well. Shoe: Let's make sure this is nice and clamped down and tight. Like what I'm thinking is that it leaks while driving under load and it causes a lean condition that when you come off a load, the ECM has adjusted for that lean condition and all of a sudden those adjustments are reaching the fixture up and then it's setting a rich coat. I Think that's uh, what it could be doing.

It's either that or we have an air intake monitoring issue. meaning a faulty mass airflow, mass airflow or uh, it might have like a some failed O2 sensors. It's possible, but both of them going out both Banks is unlikely. We can determine that later once we've determined that there are in fact no air leaks restarting the engine.

Yo! let's pull our Dtc's back up or our data. Rather, we need data entering data. Let's take a look at fuel trims one more time. I'm hoping that they changed considering I just did something.

Come on. Fuel trims 10 and 10. long terms haven't gone anywhere and short terms: zero and zero foreign functional tests and I'm gonna see if I can't reset our fuel trims. Just let them start over from zero and see what they do.

Um yeah, I can reset cam. That's fine Kia Engine off. Keep a live memory Should reset fuel trims I think Ford guys would know better than I reset Complete restarting. Let's back it out.

Data display: Continue Fuel and short terms Short terms went High See that so it's uh, it wants to go back to that state of uh fuel Trims on the long terms being up in the 10 zone. so short terms are trying to inch it up because right now the long terms are yeah, they're climbing. now. see that three and three.

We started off at zero. So the issue is here. Something's going on with this car. so let's power this thing down.

Let's let's bust out the smoke machine and let's just take a look for any kind of vacuum leaks. We're gonna check for intake manifold vacuum leaks. We're going to check for gravity. Geez, we're organized.

We're also going to check for leaks at the fuel injector. O-rings We can check for leaks in the vacuum system because this thing does have a vacuum lines run the HVAC and vacuum lines that run the EGR and I think a couple other things. So what we got to do here is we're gonna get the smoke machine out now inside of this thing I'll move it back up. It's kind of like a giant vaporizer.

You know, like those Vape things that the kids be smoking on? This is kind of like a giant vaporizer. You fill it full of baby oil, you plug shop air into it, you give it some electrons and out comes smoke from the business end. We're going to use this to visually identify any intake uh leads that might be present on this thing. Okay, we have shop air connected.

We've got the battery connected to the machine. Let's turn it up I think it's already turned up. See the little check ball in there right there. That's maximum flow and we hit the button.

Red light comes on and it should be making smoke. All right? So yeah, see that? So what? I want to do? Let's tap into our intake manifold somewhere. Just plug in right here and we're just going to observe this intake system and look for any kind of smoke coming out. There's some that didn't take long look at here.

We've got a leaker right there. See that there's a hole in that little grommet thing and that's leaking everywhere. Now that leak is past Downstream of the mass airflow sensor, so we're already going to have skewed readings. Let's uh, try to plug that up.

We'll restart the engine and recheck. That Might be our problem, right? There could be I mean it is a problem. I Don't know if that's the problem here. We'll just screw in this little fitting I found sitting on the toolbox.

We'll just put that thing in the hole and use that to temporary temporarily plug this. Get in there and plug it up with that and then, uh, we'll keep looking. Okay I See nothing else. Nothing from the intake area where the gaskets are.

Nothing from the fuel injectors both sides, for that matter, Nothing from the throttle body gasket under here. I Don't see any of these vacuum lines leaking. Nothing like that. Okay, the EGR valve wasn't leaking.

There's a rubber diaphragm inside of these Egrs and that thing can tear and cause leaks also, but that doesn't appear to be the case. Um, let's see. Well, let's go ahead and grab the scan tool. We'll disconnect our machine.

We'll restart this engine and see if we get any fuel trim changes with that leak over there sealed up. Set that right there and I need to power that machine down. so I don't waste my smoke, disconnect and plug that back in because this is a massive vacuum leak with it disconnected. Okay, restartings the engine.

Let's see what our field trims do next. Retry all pigs. Got it? I Know engine running. a little plug has been sealed.

See what happens here? Long term: still 12 and 12. short terms? Yeah, they kind of came down a little bit. Maybe Yeah, there's some negative. Let's hang out for five.

ten minutes or so and let's see what long terms do next. So they play: Let's just give it like two or three minutes. That's all we need. So we're at 11 and 12.

that one came down and 317. according to this clock, I'll be right back in a couple minutes here. A few moments later, All right x amount of time has passed. it's 3 22 according to the clock and our long-term fuel trims have come down to nine, so we lost three percent.

Let's check out our short terms here and see if they have stabilized. Four and four. Negative Positive One, Six, two. Okay, so short terms are switching.

long terms have come down. So we did see an effect. uh, from plugging that vacuum leak on this came into it. However, although that nine might end up being in Spec and it may not trigger the code I Don't think that that's exactly right.

We need to check for additional vacuum leaks. Let's shut this thing down. Let's do one more check on the component side of the vacuum system because what we just checked out here was the source side and that's our engine. However, there's all this stuff that's bolted on to this, uh, this vacuum system and there could be a leak in here now.

some of that stuff runs into the dash. Okay, so I don't want to do a full smoke test and everything. So we're just going to isolate the entire vacuum system from the engine. So I'll pull that guy off, plug in that little uh little cap right there and that's going to seal that Port Now we can go back, restart it and let's go check the stand tool data.

Once again, let's get in there quick in case some changes are happening. See what to say is collecting? Come on. Data select. Scrolling down long terms.

All right. we're Nine and Nine right. Let's keep going. Let's check out our short term.

See if anything change. look at that. look at there Negative: Huge negative numbers. Negative Seven Negative Four: So that's going to bring down Negative 10 Yeah, we're going way negative and the Uh engine RPMs just came down some too that changed.

Let's go check out our long terms real fast. They're coming down again. Seven and Seven I think short terms are still trending. Negative: Yep, All right, let me let this stabilize.

We're going to come back and check out, uh, these short terms Right now. We're yeah. Negative Four Negative Five Negative Nine Negative seven Let's wait until these stabilize around zero again and then the long-term field trips will refresh, reflect on the short-term motions, and that'll give us some more accurate representation on on kind of where we sit at this point. with that vacuum system isolated.

That's not a problem, but we know kind of where it's at. Look at our long terms. now. we're all the way coming down two three.

This is what we're looking for. That's what we what we want to see. Let's give it another couple minutes and we'll come back and recheck long and short terms. More moments later, our long-terms have gravitated into the negative.

You see that here. Back out system. This is going to confirm whether we have a problem or not. Here we go put that in.

So with negative on our long term let's go see what our short terms just did. Look at those you have 10 and 12. They're going crazy. 12 and 16..

Yeah, they're going very very positive. So what we have here is a situation where the engine's too loud to talk power this down. What we have here is a situation where this thing has a vacuum leak in the vacuum system. So the engine doesn't have a vacuum leak, but ultimately it does because whatever unmetered air is being pulled in through here is what's causing those field trim issues.

So what we're going to do, we're going to fire the smoke machine back up and we're gonna plug this side of this port. Where's my smoke? There it is. We're gonna plug that port and we're gonna check the rest of the vacuum system for a leak somewhere. I bet it's here somewheres.

Let's take a gander. what we have. Um, that solenoid's not leaking. Where else does this system go? Two wires, two hoses here here.

they run back. it comes around over here to this side. Let's see what we've got in here. We run back through right here.

We cut a left, we go down and We end up here and here at these two ports. and I believe both of these are running into the cabin somewhere. Okay, alrighty, so I've got nothing with regards to the smoke up top here in the engine compartment. So what we can do here is, let me take my smoke machine back.

Let's restart this and we're gonna watch this live on data as we go through and isolate different sections of the system. Restarting Z Engine I've got a couple plugs here I hope those fit. What I want to do is we're going to plug back in that uh, that vacuum system so we're gonna pull data back up. We're going to keep an eye on our fuel trims.

We're gonna plug that back in, watch them start to go positive again, and then we're going to disconnect one connector at a time until it stops that positive trend. See how we're coming out of the negative negative? Two negative. Two, We're still in the negative. I'm coming back in now.

We get our fuel trims and look at there long terms. We're already going positive. We have negative one now. short terms are going way positive.

so that indicates that Iran confirms that that leak is on this particular system. So let's start with our EGR we'll plug this up I'll just hold it by hand and short terms, those are still on the rise. See that? So I don't think it's the EGR That's uh, that's doing the deed here. So let's go grab our caps.

We'll head over to the other side and isolate sections of that side of the vacuum system and then we'll go check. So we'll start. We'll do these one at a time. So if there's two, I'll unplug this one and plug that off.

and then if that's not it, we'll unplug this one and then plug that on any sense. Sure. Okay. unplugging our HVAC I Think that's what this is into.

the dash my feelings in fact, in here and we're just going to install a plug over that vacuum source. like our data moving on over. Let's see what our short term look at. That short terms came.

They came back negative again. See that? Okay, let's unplug it and plug it back into its hose and then go and uh and recheck. Those same short terms should start to be in the positive near you. our vacuum leak.

We ain't small one, but it's there. Fans are on okay. plug back in. Short turns: positive.

All right. So with short terms fairly stable, hovering around zero and our long terms still at the positive, Mark That tells us that that hose is not the affected hose. This is not our circuit that has the vacuum leak. Let's check this one and I believe this goes down maybe to the vent solenoid in the rear with an EVAP system.

I'm not certain just yet. That's uh, I know that's an EVAP Port but I don't really know where that one goes Anyway, let's check. Uh, check our fuel trims with that side disconnected. long terms are still long terming and our short terms, those are close to zero.

They're not going full negative yet. I might be off base with this. so I'm not right. Something's wrong here.

This circuit right here is also not our vacuum leak circuit Downstream of this connector. So what else is it? There's only a couple things that are on this. it's not here down and it's not. It's not in the tubes because those are not leaking, not the EGR and then move this out of the way.

some I've still got long terms pulled up. The only other component that's on this circuit anywhere that hasn't been checked is it's a solenoid valve that off. Let's check our fuel trims while holding that thing closed. This is the the one I'm pinching off with my hand here.

that is the supply vacuum to that. uh, that vent solenoid. So let's check, see what short terms are doing they're going. They're hanging out around zero and negative.

Something negative. Again, let's check out our long term, see if those are moving and they're not nine and ten. I'm getting frustrated, all right. So I had to rethink this again because I was getting inconclusive results.

So what I've done is I've disconnected and plugged off everything that is attached to that vacuum harness, including this including the fuel pressure sensor right here on the rail, the Uh emissions equipment, and the stuff up to the HVAC over in the back. so everything's disconnected and I've got the entire vacuum manifold reconnected to the intake at the big Port Because of that, our long terms are doing what we want. See, now they're favoring the negative and short terms are hovering again around zero. So now what we can do is I'm going to go through it.

I'm going to plug in one component at a time and observe fuel trims in that manner. So we're negative. On our short terms, let us plug in fuel pressure regulator thing first or sensor. I Think this is the least likely of the causes, but we need to pay attention and check.

Look at there. look now. short terms are going into positive. Hang on here, put that back in and short terms are now back into the negative.

What did long term start to do? So plug it in and we'll see if our long terms start to Trend more positive with that fuel pressure sensor plugged in. Let's see if we start to go positive on our long terms, we'll see a positive change on short terms first. And we do 11s and nines and 11s. So that's going to Trend Our long-term end of the positive is that is that our leaker Tell you what? since that's Our most suspected, we're going to plug you Back off, go back and recheck.

Short terms are back in the negative and we can just go through and connect the other components. And if we do not get a change after connecting the other components on our long-term fuel trims, then we can use a process of elimination to determine that there's a vacuum leak in there. So let's plug in that guy right there and observe. Long-term Still Negative Negative Short Terms: Negative Positive Zero.

All right. No change. Let's go plug in our other two hoses that have been disconnected and plugged off. That one's gonna go in right here that goes out back to the fuel tank.

I Think And then this guy. oh, dropped it. This guy gets plugged into the hose and then into this connector right here. Dropped it again.

Plug it in, plug it in. Let's go check scan tool data real quick. like make sure that's all still copacetic because I think we're starting to narrow it down. Long Term Zero: It's negative, Still negatives.

All right. I'm gonna come back in a couple minutes. it's 402 according to the clock. We're going to return.

If our long terms are still in line, we can then plug in this regulator, pressure regulator, sensor device right here. If we plug that thing in and then this thing goes uh starts going positive again, we know our issue. Uh is has something to do with that fuel pressure regulator and it just occurred to me I Haven't even considered fuel yet. If our fuel pressure is running too high, that can give us trouble codes because it may want to run uh, too rich.

it's spraying too much fuel or a fire indicator fuel pressure is too low, then it could run lean because it's not spraying enough fuel. So that's actually a possibility to cause or to be, uh, the cause of this issue. Okay, moment of truth: it's 405 Long-term fuel trims. Still in the negative.

Short-term Fuel trims? Those are. Where are we at? Short Term Still hanging out in the negative floating around zero. Let's go ahead and plug our fuel pressure regulator back in. disconnected, plugged into vacuum.

And what do our short terms do? Look at that? We're going positive. Instant positive. See that disconnected again. Come here.

and short terms go instant negative. Look at that Zero right away. So we've got an issue with our fuel pressure sensor here. Let's see if it's a vacuum leak or if it's a pressure indicator.

Let's unplug it and now it's plugged in with it, disconnected and we're in the negative. I'm gonna put a fuel pressure regulator. we're going way negative. Look at that.

Okay, so with that unit disconnected and not functioning, we went super super negative. Let's see if I have a fuel pressure pit I Just want to see what it says fuel around pressure 90 PSI and then with it connected 58 which is probably an accurate reading 53 four disconnected. it defaults to 90 again. Okay, all right guys, that's good enough for me.

I'm gonna go ahead and get one of these uh, fuel rail pressure sensors replaced. Something's going on with that because when that thing is plugged in and installed correctly, we are getting fuel trims that are coming way off the charts and when it is disabled and bypassed, everything's uh, it comes back into line. Additionally I can hear it from here. it's running better with the thing disabled.

So I do believe we have a fault with that fuel rail pressure sensor. a fault that we did not even know about because again, the check engine light has been disabled. So let's power this down and uh I need to go ahead and get all this stuff worked up and get it floated bounced off of our owner and then we're going to see what we're going to do at that point going forward. So uh, I guess at this point I Have nothing else to do except to close this video out right now.

I Hope you enjoyed this diagnostic video. If in fact, you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. What'd you think I did right? What did you think I did wrong? and would you have done something differently? Don't forget to tap that like button wire down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video in the Mustang GT end of transmission into part one. See you guys on the next one.