Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here. What do we got going on outside? Looks like uh, an Audi or a Jaguar or something being delivered on a tow truck. Interesting. Anyway, let's go a fair of mine.

I'm going over here. back to our 2008 Honda Civic 1.3 liter hybrid 4-cylinder with eight spark plugs. we're on video numeral dose on this particular hybrid. Honda We're gonna go ahead and pull these front wheels off, inspect the brakes.

We're gonna pull the rear wheels off and start the brakes. If you recall from the first video which the link is down in this video's description, you will find that this car was at a Honda dealership recently and they said something about meeting some front brakes. so we're going to follow up on that. Also, like I said, we're going to check the rears and we'll go from there.

So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video opening. Z Hood Now we're going to start this off right with some pry bar action. Yes, that's right. we need a pry bar to do a brake inspection.

Now why do we need pry bar? You may ask to remove the hubcap. Okay, that is all. Oh, look, it's got the wheel lock, the door locks, and I have a wheel lock key. Let's get this thing apart.

See what we've got in here? Come here. All right Drum? That's what you got going on inside of there. That was easy. Came loose right away.

All right. drum brakes. Got a bit of brake dust in there. See that? that's gonna make some noise.

How are our shoes looking? Pretty good. Plenty of friction material here. We're just going to do a clean and adjust on these rears. Okay, let's go ahead and move forward.

and uh, we'll pull the front wheels off and check those guys next bar coming in ready to rock and roll. There we go. Okay, Front brakes. What do we got going on here? Oh my goodness.

I See some hot spots on the Roach Horse and moving in for the close-up on these front pads? What do we have in here? Looks like we've got some pretty worn out front brake pads. You guys see that there's the backing plate on the front pad? There it is. There's the backing plate and right that area behind it. That's our friction material.

That's no bueno. Hey, these fronts are worn out two or three millimeters tops. Okay, so I'm gonna recommend that we do front pads. now.

The dealership did say something about resurfacing these rotors. Uh, my lathe is not yet operational so I'm not going to be able to offer a resurface, but I can replace these uh at relatively the same cost so it's a really of no matter. So what I'm going to do here is we're going to replace the front pads and the rotors, do a cleaning adjust in the rear drums and we should be good to go at that point. Let's go ahead and get the impact driver out for these set screws right here in the rotor.

We'll get the caliper off, we'll get the bracket off, and we'll get started. Alrighty, so tow trucks quieted down. Let's get this thing turned a little bit and we'll begin the disassembly. We're gonna pull the slide pins out of the caliper I'll take each and set these guys aside.

There we go. All right. So my caliper hanging hooks are in use somewhere else. so we're just going to hang these calipers with a zip tie.

that way they don't fall down and they will not be in the way. So I will run a zip tie through that bolt hole right there and then we can just zip tie this thing to uh, one of the coil springs up top and it'll be out of the way and then it won't fall. There we go. I Almost dropped it just then there.

You stay right there. Okay, looking down at our pads. Get these little spreader. Springs Out of the way.

these are our noise reduction device right here. First, pad wiggle it some. look at that paper thin. those are Dunzo.

All right around on the back side. Again, we've got a 17 mil on the impact. This came out nicely. That's our bracket.

Okie dokes. So I decided to glove up some because I was getting absolutely filthy with brake dust and this stuff's hard to clean off. so it's time for the latex pack the business. Let's get this thing straight again.

Pull our set screws out and I have here rather than using an impact driver. I've got an air hammer. Check this out. Pneumatically powered.

It's got this little device on the end of it with a uh with a bit and what I'm going to do is apply some light impacts and then push down on the lever and it's going to rotate. I'm gonna rotate that screw right out without stripping it off. You usually can't get these out with a just a screwdriver. There we go.

just like that. Easy peasy with the right tools and now I can use a screwdriver. Let's save these for later. they'll be reused on the new units.

I mean some people don't reuse them, but the way I see it, they're there. So why not pop this guy off? Oh yeah, there's a bit of wear on this inside. I Can feel quite a bit of a lip right here. That's good.

Okay, time for a little bit of Surface Prep to go in here and polish off some of this rust real quick. It's not heavy, but there's no reason to not clean it off a little crotch. Sprite wheel thing on the end of a drill. Get the polish off any of that buildup.

Nice and shiny. That's good enough. Any more is overkill. We're good.

Alrighty, let's Mosey on over to the driver's side and we will repeat procedure. I've already taken the liberty of pulling the wheels off when you guys aren't looking. Airline Roll cart coming in. Let's get this thing in position here.

Same procedure. turn the wheel some Buzz the bolts out next and I need zip ties again? Yeah. I used uh two on the last one and uh, didn't need to. one would have been sufficient.

one would have been plenty sufficient. Come here There we go. Zip tie complete and again, we're going to recover our Springs Pop these guys out from here and the pads. These are, uh, super thin.

Also, not as thin as the other side, but they're down there regardless. Look it's even right on this. uh, the wear indicator. It's like right there nanometers away.

Right back to the 17 mil clickage that next. Thank you. Come here. Set this aside.

Both of those caliper brackets need lubrication later on. straighten that guy back up and we'll pull the set screws. Easy. look at that one.

Oh yeah, just like that. It's so simple. It beats having to drill these out and break them off with a chisel and pull them out with uh, pliers and all that good stuff. Just unscrew it and the Rust Belt guys are going Q-ray again with a little polishing wheel.

Get rid of all that smooth nastiness in there like never Seasons or some kind of a lubricant. Feels like weird. No worries, we'll get rid of it there. nice and shiny.

Okie Dokes Let's move on over here a little bit and get the caliper slide pins re-lubricated and prepared for installation. I Don't have my brake pads here just yet. so I don't have any of the hardware here just yet. So we're about to be in limbo after.

I Set these pins up but let us know a matcher because we can go and do the clean adjust on the rear drums while we wait. Come here. Rubber thing? There we go. Got it.

I'm gonna wipe off all the old grease here. You don't need this and then we can wipe on some new grease. We do need that here. We go.

put that back in. look, it holds air. Same thing on this one. Two down, two to go pull the slide pin out.

Hey look that grease is hardened. It's not even like liquid anymore. Let me wipe that one down. Get all that old grease off, throw some new stuff on there back in the hole, you go.

Oh that was sloppy. I Needed the towel for extra grips some in my haste. there we go. Got it all right.

the hardware is still on these I'll pop that off. We'll set that aside pending arrival of the replacement components because the new pads will have new hardware. That's good. So we're done here.

Let's go back around back and get to those rear drums. We're moving on back. Wiggle that guy right off of there same thing. Bunch of brake dust in the drum and the shoes look okay.

All right. All righty. So in order to facilitate this, clean and adjust, let's roll the oil drain pan in here, then pull off the brake drum inside of the pan and get on with the cleaning procedure. Make it nice and shiny.

It's going to go through. spread on the brake dust, get behind the shoes they're not empty yet. Brand new can and everything that drips off down below that's going to rinse out the uh, the drum. You know we don't want to waste brake clean.

That'll be bad. Dunzo. All right, taking a lookie glue at our drum. got most of the uh, all that nasty runs out of there.

Finish it off. Very good. Okay, now for the adjustment part. Let's just give this like one or two clicks just to tighten it up some.

We're going to use the adjuster wheel right here. that's uh, inside of the spreader bar on these two. uh, on the two shoes here. So I'm gonna need like a flat bladed screwdriver or a spoon adjuster and my spider senses tell me three clicks should be sufficient.

One two, and three. There we go. Let's go ahead and fit the drum on and uh, see what it feels like? Come here drum. I'm gonna line up these two holes here with the two marks that are on the Hub That feels great.

Perfect spread on. Okay, let's move on over to the passenger side and repeat Center procedure. And now that we've established the appropriate amount of clicks, I Will just apply the three clicks right here. from the get-go one, two.

that might have been four. that'll do. We're good. Okay A little drain coming in, brake drum coming in pretty clean.

Coming in, rinse out all the nasty. It's like new. Yep, behind the shoe behind that shoe. we're getting low.

Can I finish in one can I Don't know. No I'm not gonna be enough. One more final rinsing and Uno moss in storage. There we go.

Yeah, that last little bit was kind of sparse and it didn't get the rinse that I required. Not okay. let's let this dry up a bit. Actually a real quick redo.

This one's got some Rust and stuff on it. the other side. not so much. but this side's got a little bit going on here.

Just clean that off. There we go. and a little bit down here on the drum too. Thanks man, you got me look at that.

So anyway, let's get all this rust cleaned off. Try your subservant sir. What would I do without You missed a spot? man. I'm not firing on all cylinders today.

This thing It's not working out. dropping stuff missing Rush I Need a nap there. That was easy, right? Okay, drum coming in. there's the witness.

Mark for the bolt. there's the other one right there. There's my two bolts. It is in line.

Well, it's reference to how it should have been or how it came off or how it should have come off. beautif. There we go. Okay, okay, so while I was over here trying to smash my foot with a brake drum, my parts arrived.

So let's move back over here to the right front. Let's get this thing back in position and we can reinstall the new rotor and the new pads. So uh, real quick. let us de-oil these rotors.

These Are A Car Quest rotor not sponsors. That's just what I bought look at here. They come with this protective layer of oil because they don't rust and I don't want oil in the brake pads. That'd be bad.

A little bit more shiny, rinse it off, give it a wipe. that's why I put it on backwards. At first we'll flip it around. reference where the set screws go here and here.

Put that guy back on and while we're here I'll go ahead and toss the two screws in We'll Wash this off and then go head over and put the shims on the caliper brackets. Now we don't have to impact these back in, just make them hand tight and then they're good for the next guy. Shininess complete. Okie Dokes Let us flip a 180 and we're going to get these shims back on the caliper breath.

Get this debris out of here. We don't need that. Old shims don't need those brackets. We do need you.

There's the package of new hardware. It's all the replacement stuff. Let's get into that, Believe me. I'm stabbing these with a screwdriver and there's a knife sitting right here.

reserve and Diane I'm telling you, Not right today. Misfiring on on all cylinders. Come here. I Think those are the same? Yep, so they just kind of slip in and we've got to bend and press these little tangs in right here.

That's what secures it. Push that down so same thing on the other side and push little tangs in. If you don't push the tangs that retain these in all the way they can stick out in contact with, make contact with the rotor and that would cause horrendous squeaking noises while driving. then you get a comeback that would be bad.

I Don't like comebacks? I mean do more? Is there Okay to comebacks? Not so much? Try to minimize that. We also got uh replacement spreader Springs another item that people do not like to put back, but again, it's a noise reduction device. Anyway, these are now re-shimmed. Let's go ahead and get them hung back on the knuckle and get the pad set up.

All right caliper bracket coming in. I've got both of the 17s that secure the bracket to the knuckle and get those guys Started out there. a couple impacting clicks. Get back my socket tight.

Now when it comes to installing the replacement pads, I'm going to take a look at the old pads and see which ones go in which positions. For example, you can see this pad used to be the outboard pad that went right here, but we can tell based on the marks here and here, which were the little fingers on the caliper here and here. So what we've learned is that the outboard pad on this side does not have a wear indicator. It's a little Squealer tab right there that's designed to contact the rotor when the pad wears down enough and it makes a squealing noise letting the driver know that you need some brakes.

So we have learned that this is not the pad. What we need is one that does not have any hardware on it whatsoever, which is going to be this one right here. So what we need to do is depressed that clip in this clip tab rather as we rock this thing in just like so I'll get in there up bottom, slipped out, do over, try again. Almost there we go.

That's it. Another good reason to put your set screws back in is it stabilizes the rotor for when you're trying to maneuver Parts together like that. Very good. Anyway, back to our OE inboard pad.

comparing that gravity. comparing that with the other inboard and we can see that the squeal indicator is on the wrong side. So this is going to be the inboard pad for the driver's side. this one is our inboard pad for the passenger side.

here. let's maneuver around inside of here and see if we can't get a better view of this inboard. going in. it's going to happen the same procedure as the outboard side, but with less space and uh, less visibility and whatnot.

I'll get it. We'll get it though. snap, crackle, pop that one's in and get our retainer Springs in position. There's holes in these new pads for the retainers or for the spreader Springs to uh to fit those guys in.

And now we're almost prepared to uh, get the caliper installed. Okie Dokes, Let's cut down our caliper from the spring, set that thing down right here, and we'll get in there with the caliper compressor, and push that piston back in. It's a ratcheting tool that's threaded on both sides. There we go.

Set that thing down in there just as if it were a set of pads. We ratchet it as the center turns. it, pushes these two plates away, and that in turn pushes the Piston back into its four. Nice and easy and controlled foreign.

If you use things like uh, big channel locks, you actually run the risk of chipping the face of that uh of the piston and I could cause it to crack and break and that would be bad I mean not always it can be done, but if you've got the tool, it's just easier and it's faster and there's a less risk. So we've got the tool. just use it or a C-clamp Those also work 12 mil bolts. It's good guys.

started. I'm going to torque those down. Oh it clicks. Oh, hit you guys again.

Sorry. All right one is done. Let's go hit up that right front and we're good to go here. So let's get the wheel turned in the correct direction.

We'll repeat procedure here. hang the rotor, spray it down, bolt it on. We'll finish it off with the caliper Car Quest Platinum non-sponsored rotor coming in, spraying it down, getting rid of all the rust, preventative lubricant, and I'm out of brake clean I'm gonna I'll be back for that one later. Let's see here, let's get our screws lined up.

I Think they're gonna get up just like that beautimous set. Screw one and two coming in over here waking up a little bit I Guess that uh, Brake Cleans had some kind of a psychological effect. Just kidding. Just kidding guys.

I'm not I'm not buzzing off the brake clean. It's not a good idea, it'll uh, the brake brain cells make your head no longer function. It's not okay I Like a good function. head there.

Pin four: Super shiny. There we go and I got my fingerprints as a bonus. All right. Ah, now looky here this one.

I Have installed the pads into the caliper before bolting it onto the knuckle. It's a loaded caliper. comes loaded with pads. That way is not exactly preferable because it's kind of harder to do.

I Felt like showing off. There we go. push those in, get them seated flush against the rotor. There we go.

Got it, Got it good? Two spreader. Springs Coming in in the holes, they go. cut down our caliper. There you are.

snip I'll set that down right there and get that piston compressed. Spin that guy in, flatten it out, make it small, nice and Tiny and Ratchet it out. Okay, it's bottomed out. Pull the tool out, flip it.

Taking Care Did not put a twist and that brake hose because that would not be okay and get this guy bolted back in 212 mils just like the other side. Top one bottom, one bottom, one click, top onymous. Good to go. All right guys.

We're all set. Let me back this up. We'll throw our wheels back on real quick like and we'll get out of here and hit the road. Go for a test drive and burnish in these new pads.

All right. Good to go. Wheels are preliminarily bolted on. Let's let this thing down.

get them torqued Jack it out and we'll hit the road. Moving on up. Clock release coming down. Alrighty, let's get this here: Honda Fired up and backed out first.

We must never forget to put the wheel lock key back in the cup holder. Now everybody knows exactly where it is starting. Is this super quiet Honda engine. The first thing we're gonna do here is pump the spray pedal up some.

We need to close those Pistons around the pads and the rotors if we do not pump up the pedal. Then as we're backing out and when we go to complete a stop, I'll push down the pedal and the Pistons will start to come out, but they won't have any pressure on the pads and the vehicle without having brakes that appears to be sufficient putting it in reverse, not moving off the pedal removing. So we're good to go here. Uh, if you ever find yourself in a position where you have a runaway no brake event because you forgot to pump the pedal, just slap it in neutral or pull the parking brake.

I Know it's hard to think like that in that uh in that oh no situation. but quick thinking can lead to prevention of disasters Honking for safety, Backing up, backing out. See you. Let's go out and hit the road.

We'll burnish these pads in and call it a day. Looking good, Left looking good, right and away we go. Okay, here's our first stop. Nice and smooth.

I'm actually gonna try to avoid coming to a stop which that's not gonna work. there's too much traffic. You want to avoid stopping. Well, you want to avoid being stopped and then applying pressure to the rotor with the pads for as much as possible because while burnishing, what we're going to do is it's going to wear away the microscopic Peaks and valleys between or that are on the rotor surface and then around the pad surface.

It's going to wear those down and The Valleys on the rotor surface is going to be filled with some pad material and vice versa. And that's going to provide a nice mated surface between the two friction friction materials. And what can happen is if you come to a complete stop and then sit there, you can actually embed some of the material heavily in that one section and it can cause vibrations later on down the road. All right.

Again, no one's behind us checking the mirror. Looks like we're coming up to a stop. So I'm going to apply some brake pedal pressure right here and we're just going to Coast down the bridge. Very light pedal pressure.

same thing here at the light Light pedal pressure all the way down. Nice smooth stop. The road's pretty bumpy but I can feel that the stop is smooth. You can feel rotor run out in the steering wheel while braking.

Looks like we're good to go here. Did not come to a complete stop. This is good. A series of right turns so we get back to where we got to get.

Duke All right guys. Well I've got about 15 more minutes of driving around to do to burnish these pads in. This thing's all good to go. The front brakes feel good, applying the parking brake.

Rear brakes feel good. They're responsive, no vibrations, no noises out of the rears either. and this is also good. So all that being said, I'm going to go ahead and use this opportunity right now to close this video out.

And as always by thanking each and every one of you for watching this video, certainly hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Drop that like button, Tap that like button while you're down there. And most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later! End of Honda into transmission in a brake job.

End of day in the video.