Hello everybody, Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here I'm here I'm super glad to be here Dave's over there Dave You glad to be here Dave's glad to be here. He people were mad at me I threw a can of brake clean at him yesterday. oh no I'm running out of brake clean Dave another and they're like a he's going to quit Dave Are you mad at that can of brake clean I threw you yesterday Yeah, see well. I didn't throw it at him I just threw it under the car.

yeah it just went under the car. Yeah, no, it's all good. Got Cp's garage here. he's working on a fer F150 it's got the what is this? the 3 l, 3 l power I'm not going to show you what happened cuz that's I'm saving that for something else but it it blew up and died.

Uh, we'll see that one later on. I'll tell you guys when the uh, the videos are going to appear on this one, it's going to be good stuff. I Think we're going to involve uh I do cars for the engine tear down on this thing? We're going to be pulling the motor out. uh, today's diag day on that one.

Uh, what we're doing today is returning to our Uh Honda CRV and I'm trying to figure out what happened here. see I Uh I Walked in shortly thereafter I received a delivery for uh, this thermostat right here and then I look over on my bench and I have another thermostat right here. which is odd because I only ordered one thermostat but I ended up with two and of course we have the housing. This is, uh, the primary cause of the blue coolant leak on our blue.

Honda CRV In the previous video on this uh car from yesterday, we were digging around on the back side of the cylinder head to replace the Vbt solenoid pack due to a leaking gasket and oil flowing everywhere. We also changed out the oil pressure sending switch right here because I could not determine if this was not leaking or if this was leaking as well. and since uh, it is right there in the same general area and it's a cheap kind of part, we just ended up replacing this as well. This may not have been a leaker, but it also may very well have been a leaker and I didn't want to send it out after doing an oil leak repair, only to find another oil leak in the same location because that is a customer perceived comeback and we're not trying to do those kinds of things anyway.

in this video, we're going to move on to the cooling system repair. On this, it's Sat overnight on the lift and it's been leaking cooling everywhere again, uh, primarily from that uh, thermostat housing Down Below on the bottom side of the engine. So we're going to get this thing back up in the air one more time, we're going to get the cooling system drained out, we're going to change out that thermostat and the housing, refill it. And if we have enough time, we're going to do uh, a little bit of work on this electrical situation over here.

with this, uh, this radiator fan assembly. It's got a bunch of caul on it, a relay, some wires, some kind of thermostatic switch. there's a thermostat right here running down over there and all that's plugging into the fan. So U our guy would like us to uh Rectify that situation and and try to put it back to stock.

But in order to put that back, we need to find out what happened and why the cooling system had failed. But that's going to have to wait till the end of the video because we need to get uh, that leak sealed up. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video. Moving On Up Up Iny Hood Oh look who that guy is Okie does CRV is up in the air and we're going to be looking right in here at that thermostat housing here.

Let's get some light on the subject and we can see we'll revisit the leak. You see that, uh, that moist saturation right there at the bottom of the housing. What we need to do is drain the system, take the thermostat off, take the hose off, and then disconnect that hose back over there. Then we can unbolt this hous from the side of the engine block, and then remove the unit.

So that's what we're going to be focusing on today. First things first: let's get the coolant drained out of it. And fortunately for me, this radiator happens to have a petcock valve right here. conveniently located unclick, conveniently located right here.

Open that guy up and just drain it right on out. Let the blue flow all righty while we're draining. I'm going to get my mids in there and get started here. I Guess First things first: we're going to lose this clamp up here on this.

Uh, on this radiator hose trying to maneuver past the uh, the dripping coolant that's not working? Ah, maybe I just need to be patient and wait a minute wait for this drain to stop. Patience is a virtue and I may be less than virtuous today. Come on now. Clamp.

Get out of there. there we go. Got her? So now let's go ahead and peel back this, uh, this upper hose or lower hose rather, and accelerate our drain action. Is it going to come off? It's reluctant.

I'm getting splashed I'm going to pull it back slightly I Don't want to go full Center on the coolant dump here. Ah, yep, went full send on it. Not what I wanted to do there. Leave that alone for a little while and let it ride out.

Get that out of there. Okay I think we're good. It's about as much draining as we're going to get until we crack these 10 mm bolts loose. So let me go and fetch a ratchet and a 10 mil socket and we'll get those guys uh, pulled off there.

Get the thermostat removed. All right. We need a little bit more Illumination in there cuz I stick my Paws in the hole here and then I don't have uh, any light to see what I'm trying to see which is, uh, not ideal. So we'll get these bolts removed right here.

Now this uh, this housing appears to be silicone sealant in it's got RTV around it. So I'm assuming that this thermostat was changed in order to uh, sto the leak. but the problem is, this part wasn't the leak, it's it's back here on the actual housing part. Let's get this guy.

uh, unthreaded here. might just you know what? I'm going in there with electric ratchet. this is, uh, going to take too long I can't like it. Let's try to speed this up a little bit.

Hopefully we don't have a repeat on yesterday where I can get my Paws all over the parts but I can't manipulate the best and that would be annoying. A look at here here. see the uh that smooth shank right there that is designed so you cannot overtighten the thermostat against the housing. This thing will bottom out on the bung in the housing and it won't get any tighter once it bottoms out so there's only a certain amount of clamping Force it's going to be allowed to uh, be applied to this thermostat right here.

Interesting I Was looking at the old design and I wondered how that was going to work out. Yeah, I was looking at the uh, the new components and I noticed that there was kind of a gap between these two because of the uh, the O-ring or the seal that was behind this thermostat and it appeared that it made it. or it was possible that uh, the bolts would draw that in and actually Flex this housing. but it appears that uh, through the use of these bolts, that's already been thought of and mitigated neutral drop.

now we're flowing and dropping. uh Fasteners here. Maybe I'll come in from the top here and try to get a hold of that uh, that last bolt up there. we can't see it, but it's up there.

Flashlight flashlight down, Man down. Oh, almost I can see it I can't just can't really get to it. Yeah, we're doing the same kind of doing the same thing we did yesterday with that solenoid pack. This is becoming frustrating instantly.

Yeah, I've got an idea. we need to make some more working space after. I break my flashlight, stay right there. What I'm going to do is disconnect this trans line right here.

Pull that guy off. Set that aside. Maybe I Got a little bit more wiggle room out of this. Shouldn't have done that either.

Should have just taken this bracket off. That's okay. Set that aside. maybe now.

I've got yeah I Got a little bit more space here to play with. see if I can't get on that top Fastener that's in there. There's an AC line in the way I Know we need a swivel socket. That's what I'm going to catch 10 mm universal swivel socket.

Got to love the wobbly bits. Here we go. These guys. I don't break these out very often because I don't want to lose any of them.

Is that my 10 sure is. we'll swap out the straight socket for this unit and that should give us some decent purchase on that top. Fastener Should it better? it better should almost. I See you up there.

Got to get the universal lined up. There's a wiring harness in the way. Come on now. get on there there we go.

H No I'll break it Loose by hand. Now let's try this two-handed operation. Going to come in with the swivel. Get that top bolt.

My phone's ringing I Just got done with the distraction I don't want another one on clicks that was tight. Super duper tight. Okay, now that that's broken loose, go back in with the electric. all right now.

Maybe I can sneak this tool in here and spin this Fastener out. Here we go. Now we're cooking. Uh-oh oh, got caught on the magnet.

There we go. Let's pull this guy out. Yeah, look at all that sealant in there. That's not how we do that.

it's a I Mean it's okay, but it's not necessary I Don't think they, uh, the rubber sealed that's back here should always be sufficient to to seal things so we don't have to add sealant to a gasketed surface. It's not horrible, but it's It's not what we need to do. So we're going to pull this guy out that out of the way and we've got a couple more Fasteners on the housing here. there's one two right? There should be another one.

Yeah, right up here at the top and we've got this hose hanging out right here once. I Get that hose removed. We've got to wiggle this unit down from this pipe that runs up I Think that's like a bypass pipe. Oh you can't see yeah.

bypass pipe right there. That one slips into this housing and has an O-ring inside of it. So we need to get in here with some pliers and pull back our clamp on this hose. Going to be super careful with this hose cuz I don't want to damage it.

That would not, uh, not be good for us in the long run here. Kind of give that a push. it's not going to move. Twist it some here we are.

That came off nice and easy. Light good. So let's get in here and pull the rest of these bolts out. Two at the bottom cannot see that was highly infective H Tuck that up top this wiring harness here.

Stay out of the way please. Good let's try to get that top Fastener out. She's right right up. appear way out of the line of sight I can feel it but I don't know if I can reach it.

remove intake manifold I meant to do that. Ah, there's that. Bolt the lubricity of the coolant is making this annoying for me. Yeah, I'm still not getting on it I'm going to switch to a straight socket in a second here or we're going to No We're going to do this just like this.

Come on Come on. yeah, this is giving me like flashbacks of that. DBT Solenoid We're doing the same thing I Can reach the bolts but I can't do anything with them I Can't like it. Let's try a straight socket approach.

I Pulled off the wobbly bit. Yeah, not much space again. no room for a power tool. This is all manual labor.

Here we go. that one's tight too. Come on. Unclick.

Yeah, we're moving now. I Hope I don't find a bunch of sealant behind this. uh, this housing as well. That would that would be annoying.

So I'll have to clean it up off. Ah, there's a cut on my finger and the coolant is making it burn. Oh no, let's do the tool change out here. A shorter ratcheting tool here I Figure it'll give me more RPM on the Fastener since I can't use electricity to generate my rotational forces I'll have to just use the properties of Leverage Here we go.

Now we're cooking. We got some speed. More Steam Come on baby, let's go almost there. I Think that's almost enough? can I Yep.

I'll work it out with the flanges. No, I won't. We're about to bottom the tool out against the starter right here. see that? don't want to get it wedged and stuck.

So I'm hoping I'm almost out of threads here. Carpal tunnel On the way in. There we go. There's the Fastener.

Three down, four down, five, down, one to go UNAM M and I'm going to switch back to my wobbly with an extension. We're just going to go in at this angle here and spin that last one out. longer. extension.

Okay, let's get in here. Wobbly bit and an extension one more time. Cracker loose. There we go.

That was easy. So now we just get a hold of this guy here. We're going to pull it back. Yeah, it's siliconed on, there's sealant in there, feels like it's glued in, and we've got to wiggle it off of that pipe.

that bypass pipe that's running up. So we've got to pull her down and kind of just maneuver it till she comes out like so. oh look at that. It's nasty o-ring up there and it's a flattened o-ring that's not good.

That might have been the leak the whole time. Yeah, there's that sealant again. So this is why we don't need this. See how that sealant kind of made its way into this cooling passage? That's not good cuz this can break off and end up circulating around.

Is not the end of the world, but if you can avoid doing that, that's probably for the best. Let's go in there. I'll use the abrasive properties of a towel to scrape off whatever uh is left over and if I really got to get in there I'll I'll get a scraper or a razor blade which I think I might. This is why I don't like to use sealant in places like this cuz the next guy has got to clean it off.

Yeah, that's caked on pretty good I need a scraper for that scraper scraper carbide tip scraper coming in. Just going to drag this along the surface will peel away all that. RTV it's getting more shinier. Another towel coming in.

We'll get the smaller bits remove that should. this should peel those off with just some friction. Okay, good to go now. I need to figure out what to do about this o-ring right here because I know that that is not going to seal in the long term.

Okay, kind of a risky move. I'm going to pull this o-ring out and try to match it up. The risk is if I can't match it up, we are dead in the water on this and I'll have to figure out how to Source this o-ring so I'm hoping I don't tear it to Pieces There she is okay. hope you guys saw that anyway.

I got the ring off I'm going to go try to match this up. I've grabbed one from the kit that I think is close, but it's uh, probably not going to be wide enough but I'm going to fit it onto the hose and see what. uh, what happens here. Okay, well I had to go down to the part store and get the proper O-ring for this right here.

The uh, the ones out of the generic kit were not sized properly so we had to just go get the actual o-ring which was annoying cuz you'd figure that the house housing would uh, would come with the O-ring that is needed. but it doesn't This? this o-ring is. uh, it's not visible right now. This o-ring is not part of the housing.

it's actually part of the tube. so you only get it unless you buy the tube or get it separately. The Uh: Parts packing people were not very intuitive with that idea. There we go.

O-rings installed. Let's go and fetch the new housing. see over here on the uh, the box or the bench. Or the bench box housing housing.

Where are you? Oh, right in front of me. There it is. Yeah, you figure that these housings would have that O-ring inside the box, but they do not. That that's like saying that you don't get this seal because it should be part of the engine.

and I I don't comend it, it's a $2 part. I would happily paid $2 more doll for this, but no mat. anyway. I'm going to throw some Dil El Lube on that seal right there so it doesn't uh, get bound up and pinched when I go to do the install and then we'll get this, uh, this housing assembly in position.

All right. Coming in with some uh, little bit of lubricity here I don't need to squeeze any out cuz it's been slowly oozing out of the bottle since the last time I used this. Give that a a generous coating of lubricant, get some on the back side. there.

There we go Good. So now we shall maneuver the housing in position, focusing primarily on that tube. Uh, what am I doing? It's pointing the wrong way. Let good going to wiggle that in.

There we go, that's in position. Now we just need to bolt the housing to the engine and then we'll get that hose right there. reinstalled. Okay Fasteners Coming in, these are smooth shanked Fasteners Just like the ones that go on the thermostat.

Get that bottom one in right there. Start with this one. Yeah, here's a better illustration of what I was talking about. So if we hold this up to the plastic on the housing, we can see that it cannot crush the housing due to that shank being smooth.

That's the nature of the design so you really can't use a conventional bolt unless you're super. Vigilant on not over torquing these things which it would kind of be hard to do, it's sort of like a ah, hand stuck foolproof method here. let's get one started and then we'll get the others lined up and in position. Going to go in here we go I Cannot see there now I can see taking care to not cross thread this in because it's at a weird angle right now due to that uh, gasket surface pushing this away from the engine block.

So what I'll do is come in with the extension and the wobble going of. run this down a little bit I didn't get much thread engagement. it's uh, it was getting tight due to the friction. Yep going in nice and smooth.

That's about halfway in. so let's get the other two bolts in next before applying any other forms of torque here. Pardon my uh, my flanges can't. uh.

definitely having a tight squeeze kind of moment here. Super close quarters combat. Come on down. No yeah, getting this to line up is proving challenging.

I'm disliking what's happening here. That gasket is very thick in comparison to its compressed height and that extra space is making this, uh, less than ideal. Yeah. I've got to pull the housing down some.

It's this isn't right, not working out. This is exactly how the Vbt solenoid went. Um I don't like this. see I can get it lined up if I pull.

but I can't maintain that downward pressure and still attempt to thread that thing in. Uh, tell you what. I'm going to put some more torque on this Fastener right here, the one that's already in position. We're going to run that down farther and it's going to start to compress the gasket on the backside and draw that in a little bit to tighten up the tolerances.

You see that Gap closing up right there. so we kind of getting this in position a little bit. It's not tight yet, so I should have some amount of wiggle room here to be able to move this around. Yeah, that's that's.

a little better looking. Get this other fener in here bolt Still not there? No. I've got an idea. It's a rather unconventional idea, but it'll work because I'm going to employ the use pry bar.

So what I'll do is I'm going to put this, uh, other bolt in the top right here and I'm going to use a pry bar. What was that? Something fell. Oh my, my bolt fell? I'm put this in right here and I'm going to pry bar against this bolt and push this housing this way and it should pivot off of this. Fastener here.

bringing that hole in line with the threads on the back of the engine. That's the uh, that's the idea I Don't know if it's going to work, but it's the idea I Fix cooling systems with pry bars because why not? Why not pry bar your cooling system components? Yeah, ooh, that's good too. Right against the AC line. Oh look at that.

Now we're getting somewhere that's using the crane brainium. It's uh, better than cross threading this. I say cuz it's easy to cross thread things, it's harder to do it the right way. but also, cross thread is like a Nature's Own Loctite it's built in okay coming in.

extension and a 10 mil wobble yet again. I'm going put some torque on that guy and thread it down some. make sure it's all straight and good to go, but there's no space here. so I'm going to have to add extensions to create a compound.

uh, extension here. We need a super long one. got to get the proper angles here and I need space to be able to turn the ratchet. Let's get that guy in and the threads are going feeling good.

Nothing's binding or turning I Like what's happening here and similar to the that first bolt. I'm going to run this down kind of tight. not enough to start compressing the gasket, but just enough to take away any potential movement and slack out of this and contact is there. Now for the hard one way up top here.

Uh no. I know we can't see that one. I can feel the hole right here. Get that guy in.

I'm going to attempt to thread this with the same extension configuration system that I've got going on here. I think I have the the right angle on this. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, we have contact. No I don't Oh, come on.

H I need a different socket? The offset is wrong here. Let's try this one. It's a deeper swivel 10 mil and that should kind of help bring the swivel portion away from the housing for proper angle and clearances. Let's try this right here.

Just keep turning or slipping. Slipping and turning and turning. and slipping. There we go.

Now we're config or not, we were almost configured appropriately. Come on. I'm striving to achieve some Excellence here and the nature of this design is preventing such things there. All right.

So when we bottom this one out, I'm going to send it all the way to the bottom and apply full torque to this top. Fastener Then we'll go around to the other two. Almost okay. I Just saw the housing move so it's applying clamping Force I'm applying Torque There we go.

Torque achieved. Click. All right. That one's in.

Let's move on to the next one down. That one's mostly tight. That one just needs some final torque applied here. W Really Oh man.

caught you. You guys fell down. You were on a magnet. That's what happened I wonder if I'm like a walking like anti-gravity magnetic field where my magnets just like slowly give out.

There's got to be a reason for that. anyway. ounce tight. last one.

Let's apply some torque here. and that's going to finalize our clamp against the water pump housing. SL Engine Block click Housing is now installed. moving a little closer here and I've got to get.

uh, got to get my hand in there. Somehow there's no space. Come here. flashlight.

We need to get this hose fitted over that nipple right there. Come here. your hose nipple. Oh come on now.

yeah, come on. No, it's going the wrong way. It's not what I want I want it here? No. H I know I know what we need here.

We're going to grab some, uh, angular needlenose pliers. These ones curvy, angular needle nose pliers. I'm thinking I'll get a hold of it like so without poking a hole in it cuz that's very easy to do with pliers like this. We'll just nudge that back down I wonder if I can get the clamp with these pliers as well.

That would be a feet. It's working but not all the way. Okay, conventional Pliers are needed. You go there, m back in you see that uh, pressure switch right there I don't want to break that.

Watch out for that. Let's just wiggle this thing down all the way down. It's got to go back. Oh not that far and I screwed the pooch on this one.

Okay, redo, got to do it all again. See that I just pulled the clamp off of the hose. Ah sh up. I Don't think I'll be able to slip it back on? Maybe.

Oh yeah. sweet, got it, it's back on. That was fun I didn't think I was going to be able to pull that off like that I I was uh, figured I was going to have to pull the hose back off, then remove the clamp and then redo it. I'm I'm glad that worked out.

Okay, so let me fetch my installation bolt up here. get that guy back out and then we can get the thermostat reinstalled. What you looking at I Have a question, what is it? You're patiently waiting when when for me or for all of us for you? Mainly okay, but um, when Aaron is here on next week or the week after, can I schedule some vehicles for you as well? Absolutely okay. All of a sudden we find ourselves with more technicians in the building than we do stalls in the building.

which either means uh, we need to roll cars in and out with more efficiency or I need a bigger building and I'd like a bigger building. So we're just going to start talking about that right now and maybe we can manifest a manifest a bigger building for in the future. Now let's uh, get this thermostat in position here. Now Again, similar situation.

There's the top bolt which I can barely get a hold of and of course the ones on the bottom which I can easily get a hold of. So we're going to put in the lower bolts since they're accessible and we can use those to locate the component. And by locate I mean it hold it in its position where it's supposed to be I know where it is. So I don't have to locate it in that context.

but holding it in position is another form of uh location that can be used with the word. and I've just misplaced those two shanked bolts that I just had. Are they in here? Yes, they are. Stay gross.

We did a diesel oil change in here. Now there's diesel oil and all of our stuff is not good. Give that a wipe you down I'll undel it here. Pre lubricated threads.

That's what we've got. Is there sealant on that? Yeah, there's RTV on the shank of this Fastener see that? Hang on I got to scrape that off. Not going to work I know. Take this and put it on some needle noses and then polish that off with a Uh with a wire wheel.

I Was trying to pick it off by hand but it's it's on there. Pretty good. I'll just wire wheel it away and then uh, it'll be nice and clean and smooth like we get this one installed next. See another reason to not use RTV on everything.

It's fantastic stuff, but it doesn't need to go everywhere. Oh whoops. I there's a greasy rod in the vice here I'm take it out. No, no, it's fine.

You can leave it there. don't worry about it all. I got to do is I got to take it back out anyway. Flip it around I did this side already.

Oh good yeah I just need like 3 seconds on. oh the water wheel. yeah that is all. Oh Dave will you will you have Lauren go get you a an idler and idler bracket.

have her order that. yeah I didn't know. Order of those two. Thank you.

We're rebuilding the front end. Okay, now that we've unsealed the Fastener we can put that guy back in was going on the bottom side again. The shank will locate and align this component where it's supposed to be, making that uh, top bolt easier to get in. Much much easier.

There we go. Ratchet coming in, spin that down, some contact and one more to go which is right in there hanging out. Give that a good wipey and there's sealant on that one too. Okay, repeat back to the grinder Here There we go.

Pardon me sir. one more time on the grinder unit here. Safety: Squints I Mean I'm out of the line of fire too. There we go.

All right. last 10 mm. Got to reach kind of up and over. Tuck that wire out of the way for some clearances.

This is the hard one. Yeah, come on. let's feel those threads catch. There we go.

Almost almost. Nope. Not yet. So close.

No fail. Try it again with the right hand. Maybe my my left-handed threading abilities are less than ideal for the situation here. Or we have an alignment issue.

It's not aligned. Yeah, it's started Here We go. Okay, got it. Threads are started.

Let me sneak in with the ratchet again, see if I can't get those to run down some nice. Okay, now those, although those are bottomed out I do need to apply some actual por to them because cuz I did not get any kind of tightness achieved and that those will back out if I don't make them a little bit tighter. I Basically just bottomed them out so we're switching out to the ratchet again. Let's get the right angle here.

that's why I like Flex Head ratchets okay. Top: Fastener A little bit more here. Lickage that one's tight. That one feels good.

That one's also tight. Okay, now let's get our upper or lower hose, lower hose back on. right? There's good. Let's get the clamp receed not Reed but receed.

receed. Back to this no space situation here. There's nothing worse than stuff that you're working on Staring at you right in the face and you can't manipulate it. It's remarkably frustrating when that occurs, and this is definitely one of those types of situations where I'm staring at my problem in the face and I can't do anything about it.

Now let's try this with some maybe longer needle noses. I Can get more manipulation angle on these components here. it's going to slip. Maybe, maybe not.

Okay. Now see what this did. that connector locked in? See how they've got those little locking tabs on it? Usually they don't like to set up like that, but this one did lock into position. so all I need to do is give that a it's not going to unlock screwdriver.

So what we'll do: I'll come in with this little flat bladed screwdriver. get it between those two pieces and twist. Watch this. Now we're good.

except that clamp is not aligned with the witness marks on the hose. so I'm going to rotate that and move that into its uh, original position. So what we'll do? Grab the other end of it there with the needle nose, give it a pull. It should rotate around.

Very slight pull with some Sparks a Come on Seriously here. I Know, get real simple with this watch there. Problem solved. All right.

So we're done up inside of this cavernous web of things that are in the way. Let's recover the illuminators. I Need to put the mount on for this little transmission line filter business right here. We'll bolt that back on, then we can let her down and refill the coolant.

I Think that's the one Now this thing does not. uh or it has blue coolant in it I I Don't regularly stock the uh, the blue dyed Asian coolant. Uh I'm going to use my BG coolant because it meets the specs for this Honda coolant. So that's what I'm going to use.

It's gold in color and is not the same blue. so nobody get mad at me for using a gold coolant in Li of a blue coolant because it meets the chemical makeup and the correct specifications. so I'm allowed to do that. See here, let's get this guy tighten down a little bit, ring, line it up.

There's a little Peg right there that locates the bracket. Put that guy in, then this thing is going to sit right here on that bracket. It's a two-piece kind of unit. This side is going to clip in.

They're sliding right there to that tab, pull that down, and then it kind of clamps together so we've got one more 10 m. Let's get this guy started. I went too far. Whoa, you see that I just moved through the Matrix bro like I dropped it and I broke the sound barrier catching it.

That was fantastic. Fantastic. anyway. I went too far back that guy out a little bit and we're going to push this filter.

I think that's a filter Cody is this a filter? Sure looks like one? There we go. Pckage Cool! And last but not least, I need to cut my zip tie off cuz that doesn't go there. Yeah! I Stuck that little zip tie on to kind of keep the hose out of the way. Time for the cut isnip okay.

that looks good. Everything's back together. Good Good Good Good Good good. Let's recover all the flashlights out of here and the magnetized items.

Let this thing down and get it refilled. You guys stay there all right. Moving back around up off the locks lock release CRV coming down all the way down. all righty.

radiator cap coming off, the valve down below is also closed and gold coolant coming in I don't know if you can see the gold Hue to it it kind of looks like water. It's a lightly colored gold. Again, that's just the die package. it 1,000% meets the specs Well it can't be a th000 % because I don't think you can have something greater than 100% because anything greater than the original 100% becomes the new 100% right? o Here we go getting a little Brave on it pouring things.

Oh I almost lost it had to. Ah, there we go I just dumped it. oop see I was fine till I stopped showing off. Anyways, we're refilled.

I'm going to go ahead and start the engine. Get some coolant flowing through here. We need to let it come up to operating temperature that way that thermostat opens and we get full. Flowage We can fill this back up, cap it off, let it pressurize, and then we'll inspect for leaks.

There we go. a full gallon too. All right coming on around. Let's go on back inside of the cabin restarting the engine.

Good to go, she's alive. let make sure we're not dumping that's negative and I need to go and refill the bottle here. Refill? don't know to Oh No, you're good. No worries.

of course refill complete little beans. Okay, let's finish our top off here while we're adding fluids. I Need to go ahead and throw a little bit power steering in this as well. You noticed in the last video that the reservoir was slightly low.

There we go. Lug gug, fill it on up. Now what'll happen is Oh too much. much too much.

What's going to happen is we're going to notice that all this is going to end up being totally blue in color. This coolant will accept the color of the current coolant and just dye this blue as well so it'll slightly dilute the the blue coloring, but not enough to make it unrecognizable. I Think that's good. Yeah, we need to figure out uh, what the situation is with this business right here too.

I Think that the the fan stopped working and and this was like an automatic temperature switch that was installed in lie of whatever causes uh, those fans to come on and it obviously comes with a relay. it's got its own power and ground. And then I believe that this wire we were wondering about earlier that ran back here uh goes to a switch in the cabin in order to turn that fan on I Think that's what. Uh, what's happening with this? Um, the situation on this.

uh, this fan relay wiring, uh situation thing here going on where words. we going to do some super long range immediate pouring. oh so close. I Could probably use a funnel and not spill as much, but it's fine.

Okay, the reservoir SL overflow bottle is about half Way full. That's as far as we're going to fill that we need to allow room for expansion. The system naturally will expand and push some of the coolant into that bottle so we don't want it to expand, push coolant in, and then have it overflow through the bottle here. So we do leave a little bit of space there.

There's actually a full Mark Uh, usually on the side of these bottles. this one. I Believe if the uh, there's like a line right here, it's kind of tough to see from where we're at. There's like a there's a mark right there that shows the full level.

Yep, see Look, it's blue Again, blue, not gold. That's tight. Put that on. Uh, where's my cap? What I'll do is give this upper hose a bit of a squeeze here.

make sure there's no air in it. just kind of squeezing. squeezing, squeezing just a little bit. I think we're good.

Go on there properly there. Good to go. And since I did spill some coolant, we run that off with some blue water. Very nice.

Okay, let's run this thing back up in the air. We can wash off all that residual spillage. I'll give that a little bit of a spray and then we can, uh, pause and then monitor that for leaks in a moment. Moving back up you getting cold o it's like yeah, it's hey.

turn the turn the heater on I'm feeling it too. it's a little chilly. do I get turn? Yeah, there's a there's a orange switch on the other side. Yeah, just fire that up Full Steam Oh yeah I Like it.

Oh yeah. I Can feel it. Beautiful. All right coming back in.

We're going to be focusing on this area right here. We need to make sure there's no leaps or drips. Valve is tight, just spray off all that leftover nonsense. Wash that off.

Very good. All right. We'll let this brake clean, dry up some, and then we'll come back and revisit. uh, this area in a moment.

All righty. 20 minutes later and we are high and dry back here. There's no fluid at that. O-ring nothing around the thermostat and the housing gasket right there in that position.

It is also looking dry. This is good. I Like what we've done here. All righty coming down again.

Let's take a quick peek into trying to diagnose what's going on with those. uh, those cooling fans up there and then, uh, we'll see what that system is going to need. That way we can remove and delete that uh, that aftermarket temporary repair that we saw going on with the Uh, the relays and the thermostatic switch. and the caul and the wires and the switch inside of the cabin and all that other good stuff all the way down.

achieved. H Steaming. What are we steaming from this leftover? Uh, that light's dead. Where's my other light? Ah, there it is I left it over here when I did the walk by.

It's a very strong magnet. Come here there. Okay, uh yeah, no biggy, that's just leftover spillages. Things are heating up and steaming off.

Okay, so the fans have not. Come on, let's go check the temperature. We should be nearing operating temperature at this time and there is no gauge. Okay, so let's try this.

We'll turn the AC on the AC should command the fans on. So we have then our low speed I Don't know if that's the low speed. the high speed one fan is on this fan. over here is the one connected to all this business.

So what we need to determine is why this connector here does not seem to have power. See the fan that's the fan connector plugs into the motor and then it's going to plug into that connector there which goes into the vehicle's wiring harness somewhere. We need to see why that is not getting power or theoretically why it's not getting power. Let's toss a multimeter on it real quick just to make sure that that fan is indeed not receiving a on command from its control module.

So we are in. It's Ac voltage DC voltage. Go ahead and test out our meter real quick and make sure it is reading so you in and 14 volts so the meter is functioning. Let's get this connector plugged in to our meter right there.

That's the guy I switched out the lead, the other one was a female lead. This is the male lead lead but it's got the Pokey bit so we will take that connector which also according to the theme of this car can't be reached cuz I can't reach anything on this car. Probe one side of that connector and then H the negative side. Uh I'm looking at the meter right here and I'm not seeing voltage coming up so it's not powered.

Double check all the connections. Yeah, we're getting Mill volts out of it. Okay, nothing there. So we need to find out why we don't get power at that fan switch.

We should be getting power because the AC is commanded on which uh with the AC on it should want both of those fans to fire up and it's not doing that. I Suppose we should see if I can make the fan turn on with this little thermostat switch right here too turn up the temperature. It's not doing anything either. Nothing happening, maybe the other way.

Nope, still not on. It should be coming on and it is not H Odd. All right. So next, let's go ahead and just power the fan directly to make sure that the actual fan motor itself is going to run I'm assuming it does.

but uh, I don't know. So we're just going to give it some power straight from the battery. We need to disconnect these little guys here. Both of those units plug that one in.

That's the positive side. Negative is going to be this blue cable right here. see if the actual fan comes on. Yes, fan is running.

We know that fan actually does do its job. We'll leave that alone, let it run for a while just so the thing doesn't overheat. I'm going to go over to the computerize and we're going to pull up the wiring diagram for that fan system and see what's involved with that high-speed fan. Okie Do's pulling up all data.

It's information Source We're looking for 2008, right? It was an ' 08 Honda Honda Honda Honda Honda Truck They're going to call it a truck I bet cuz it's four-wheel drive. Where are you Honda I lost it. My mouse is not doing what I want Stop it there Honda Truck There we go CRV Four-wheel Drive 2.4 L That's what we're working with. We want diagrams.

We want electrical diagrams and fans or cooling system heating, air conditioning horn information bus, Radiator cooling fan. There we go. cooling fans. And here is our digigram for our fan circuits.

Let's Zoom this out. Okay, let's find our Motors and work back. So we've got the condenser fan and what's this other fan here? I Can't zoom in a little bit farther. Okay So we've got radiator fan here.

condenser fan. That one right there. One of them is grounded to body ground and then it receives its power from the AC condenser fan relay. It's this guy right here which is also triggered on by the fan control relay which is these circuits.

Here there's another radiator fan relay that one runs this fan over here. We got our zoom in good under left side of engine compartment. so I think we're primarily focusing on this one. that's the left side of the compartment.

So we need to determine which fan is which and then figure out why they don't turn on. So we we've got a fuse right here. Fuse Six and Fuse 7. There's two fuses hot at all times.

Those are located in the Underhood fuse relay box. Uh, one diode. there's a fuse over here. Fuse 36.

So let's check fuses first 36, 7 and 6. Then we can check for the relays and then go from there. 36 7 and 6 36 7 and Six. Okay, Underhood Fuse Relay, Let's shut this fan off.

That's too loud. 36 7 and 6. See what we have? So that one is going to be the condenser fan because that one is what's coming on when the compressor engages. So we're going to call that condenser fan.

This is the regular cooling fan right here. You hear the Cck. Anyway, back on track 377 I'm sorry. 36 7 and six.

All righty. So looking at these fuses, we are. There's seven and there is six right there. So those are the two for the actual fans.

Let's uh, verify that on the cover I Don't see them on the cover? Oh yeah, here they are. That's seven and that is six, seven, and six. Let's pop those guys out real fast. see which one of these fuses goes to which fan? This one should be the one that goes to the fan that's not running cuz the fan is on currently.

Let's pull this next fuse out when the fan turns on and it should shut back down. We wait for it to come on any second. now. Okay, Fan's on, fan off, Fan on again.

Okay, this circuit's good. This one is in question. We should have at least power on one of those pins. so let's check that with the meter.

make sure we've got power at uh, at this section of the fuse block. If there's no power on either one of those, we may just need to put a fuse block in this. Let's check it here and here. we'll flip it around.

This one goes to ground. Come here, We are grounded. Uhoh! I Might have found that out really fast. Like do a meter check, meter check 14.

Give it a clip. Yeah, 14 volts, no power. It's in molts and this one also no power. So let's verify that one of those should be hot at all times.

It could be receiving power from the relay. So let's check the other side. 14 Vols and 14 volts. We don't have 14, but we should.

so that means that this pin right here this one is dead. That should be getting power and it's not all righty. So according to the diagram, fuse 7 should be hot at all times on one of these pins and it receives its power from within the fuse block itself, so there's nothing between this pin's power supply and uh and the pin itself in order to uh to give power to this pin. So that tells me that our fall is probably inside of this uh fuse block.

Um I Want to go ahead and I'm going to manually Supply power to the down leg side or the downwind or Downstream side. There we go Downstream side of this circuit. So we probed this pin over here and found that the top side was constant power and then the load side was the bottom. So we have power here and the load side at the bottom.

So what I will do is just apply power to the load side right here and we're going to see if that fan has power at the connector U or the factory connector here. We'll take this green wire that's our negative and we're just going to run. We're going to take that away from the negative. We're going to connect that right over here to the positive side of the battery.

So now this lead right here is hot. We're going to apply power to the load side where that fuse is supposed to go. Now, what that should be doing is enabling the relay and the rest of the circuitry to actuate this fan using the factory connector which is again buried way down in that hole. Down Yonder So what I'm going to do is I'm going to rig up an extension.

So we don't have to keep reaching down to Uh to test that connector down there. See that little guy? it's too far away. This right here is the hot wire. this green one, hot wire going to the full-time hot the pin in the relay sluse block.

So now we will take these two little bladed connectors and we're going to plug these into the factory fan output connector. That way we just have an easy access point for testing. So we've got the two yellow leads connect to a yellow and a red and I don't know which polarity is. We'll figure that out the corresponding alligator clips.

Let's test that connector for power from the fuse block now that we've supplied it power and that's going to tell us if the rest of the circuitry is functioning as it should be. So we connect these two guys together. We should see some voltage here and I do not see voltage. Okay, let's swap out to continuity and I want to see which one of these is power and ground real quick like.

Okay, so we got nothing out of that. So now what I would like to do is determine which one of the these wires at this connector is actually running to the ground side. I've got the meter switched over to continuity and negative terminal connected to ground wire on the battery. We're going to take our positive terminal and we're looking see if we've got the tone here.

It should beep at us. Okay, audible tone. When we have continuity, no audible tone. Check the other connector.

It was beeping, Then it stopped. We have a bad ground. There's the beep. We got a ground here, but it sounds dirty and it stopped.

See that. So that's also interesting. Not really a good ground. It just went o Is it the meter? Yeah, that sounds like a dirty ground.

It's odd. Well, I'll tell you what. since we know this is the ground wire, let's just go ahead and run that straight to ground. So now we know we have ground coming in at that connector.

Okay, let's go ahead and switch this back to voltage. You should be seeing some power showing up and it's in. We're getting molts. DC So the ground's not the greatest.

It has continuity, but that is not going to be sufficient here. Let's check it one more time. You know what? Let's get another meter. I Don't like what this is doing on continuity.

I Need to make sure it's not this. Cheapo meter. I'm going to bust out the flute. Let's try this one more time.

meter coming out. Let's get our tone going on. Continuity: Okay, there's tone to ground so we're going to probe that wire back into the ground post. We'll test this out on negative.

Yeah, that's a lot better and it's giv us 13. Ohms Okay, look at that. o Again, that one went o just like the other one did. So let's go check and see what's up with the ground circuit.

Look at that. it must be grounding out through the relay. So perhaps this thing should be running constant hot and then the relay grounds it out. cu listen, when that one comes on, it'll it'll start tripping and give us a continuity again.

Look, we have bad relays too. I Have no power and I have no ground at this fan. What happened? Ah I See what's going on here. The ground for this fan is not grounded straight to body.

The way that the other fan is. The ground on This fan that we're looking at is grounded through the fan control relay. Remember, there's three relays here. There's the condenser fan relay, radiator fan relay, and the fan control relay.

This fan is getting its ground for. It's uh, that fan motor through the fan control relay. So we need to figure out which one of these is the fan control relay relay. Okay, so I'm going to go with the assumption that our fan control relay is going to be one of these two.

I Think it's this one? No, No. so let's swap these out. We're going to do the Re relay swapping game and we're going to find out if anything changes here. Which there we go.

Now we've got good ground. Look at that and we're down to 9 ohms resistance. We have a bad relay. Watch this.

Fan's going to turn off. Can we swap any other relays that are in question here? What else is? uh, they're not the same I Think they're all color coded. This one up top. that's a fan relay.

Second one down I I Don't know what that one does. Let's pull this one out right here. I Think we can swap it. Maybe like the Defrost relay over here.

Let's try this one. Swap it with the compressor relay. Okay, see what happens now. fans are on.

It's not cycling so effectively. We swapped the fan relay with the compressor relay and there seems to be no change here. Let's pull this relay out next and we'll swap that one with this other blackin color relay. It didn't like that.

Oh I kind of broke it. Engine RPM is stay Staying High Let me shut this down and restart. It's not happy with what I just did. Oh got an got a warning light too.

power that down. Okay, idle has restabilized. Let's wait for it to cycle and see if this shuts down again. Okay, that's good.

All righty. So with all those configurations going on, the ground system on that circuit remains consistent. So our issue lies with the power supply circuit. Now, we found out earlier that there is no power coming into that pin that supplies the fuse with power.

It should be constant powered here here and here and it is not. What's bothering me is that when I Supply it power, it doesn't seem to care. So next up what we're going to do: I'm going to switch this power wire to continuity and we're going to see where we have this wire connected to this fuse. BLX We're going to see which pin on which relay it's connected to.

Okay, so what we're going to do is reconnect this meter to the power side of that connector. We're going to leave this thing on continuity and I'm going to figure out which one of these relays is the one that responds or uh, commands this fan on on this side. Okay, so I believe that this blue one right here is the one for our fan that's not functioning. Let's pull that out again.

we're on Contin uity other end of the meter is connected to the inoperative fan and I think yeah, that's the output wire. Okay, so we do have continuity between the fuse box and the fan that is now confirmed that should be there. So now we need to look and make sure that the rest of the pins where this relay resides have powers and grounds. So we're going to move the connector on the meter I'll use the black one since it is ground.

We're going to reconnect that to ground and we're going to check for grounds at the relay to make sure that The relay is capable of functioning. No ground, no ground, no ground. Why don't I not have ground at the relay? Seriously, that's weird. H Okay, let's try something different here.

We're going to do continuity between the output wire and the pins for that relay. There we go. That connection is good. Continuity between the input and power.

Nothing. Nothing and nothing. So we have a failed fuse block confirmed in more ways than one. The relay is connected to the fan, The ground is connected to the grounds.

On the third relay, it's working on this relay we've got. We should have a signal. We should have voltage on this one. Let me switch this to voltage real quick and check that for voltage.

I'm not seeing it. Continuity: Let's check that. Yeah, that circuit's also dead. Yep, there's power output.

Okay, I'm convinced we are going to have to have the underhood fuse block assembly replaced. That's going to be this entire unit right here. So we know that the relays connect to the fans. it's receiving power.

The fuse is not powered from within and it should be. And there are no other fuses that power this strip that runs this fuse. So we've got to have some kind of a burnout inside of this fuse block. Um, I Don't know if I can do it, but we're going to go ahead and try to pull this apart real quick just to see if we can't see inside, if it's going to, if it's going to pose a huge problem, I'm not going to mess with it uh I don't want to break it more than it already is and then render the vehicle and operative.

So let me reach inside and shut this down and I'll see if I can't pull this uh, fuse, block apart some to take a look down below. go powering down. Let's see see if she's going to come apart here or not. Couple little tabs that secure it where no, that's a it's a maybe I might damage it trying to take it apart I don't really want to do that? Yeah, that's a little bit more involved than I thought it was.

Um, I'm going to try to Source One of these and see if I can't locate a replacement and then uh, if I can get one in a timely manner. uh, we'll pull this thing out, autopsy it, toss the new one in there, and at that point, the uh fan system should be running. So that's a diag. As far as I'm concerned, it's been proved out in uh, three ways and then that is good enough for me to condemn this component.

Uh, like I said, I need to find one, try to order it, and then see what we can do. Uh, about getting that fan back together. so haven't said all that guys. I have nothing more to offer you on this particular video.

Thank you guys for watching this video I Hope you enjoyed this diagnostic electrical process for uh, for our fan situation going on here. Uh, let me know what you think about that silly little uh thermostat housing situation down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there. and most importantly, have yourselves fantastic day! See you guys later in a video in Honda into 2.4 l in transmission.

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