Unlocking! Hello everybody! Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here! This is a 2012 I think Hye Sonata Pretty nice looking Sonata especially for its age. Its mileage is, uh, it's coming up right now. We have approximately 2,456 M on the odometer. How about that customer? States Uh, there is a warning light on looks like an airbag light.

They also state that the cruise control does not work and on occasion we get like an ABS or a Traction control system warning indicator that illuminates as well. So we're going to go ahead and plug the scan tool into this unit, see if uh, what that code says for the airbag. We're going to look for some latent codes in the ABS module, go test drive the thing, and then, uh, we will proceed to make recommendations from there. scan tool powering on, beep.

Let's go ahead and pull this thing up and see what our codes tell us. In the meantime, we'll let the AC cool our uh, cool our cabin down some, get some ventilation going for some Creature Comforts and then, uh, get this unit diagnosed. hopefully repaired. Now this vehicle, uh, comes from far away.

The folks are here down in sunny Florida on vacation and they're going to need this back fairly quickly. So I Want to get this thing? diag get a part ordered, whatever we need if it's feasible within the time frame and get this thing repaired so they can, uh drive it back on home. uh up to the northernmost land of Tennessee See? uh oh, not not engine I Want? Let's go in airbag first because we have an airbag light on airbag airbag. There we go.

Let's hop in event one and event two. That's interesting. Interesting. There we go.

I I Everyone mispronounces that word. We all say interesting because we're Americans and we're lazy with our speech. but I believe we're supposed to be saying interesting because it pequs our interest and so it is interesting. That's what I think my estimation: I'm no English major.

but uh, that's my take on the situation. So anyway, we have a weight class. uh WCS Weight classification system Communication error History Code: Okay and then we've got a p a B1346 that's 1346 driver airbag resistance High Current Code: So they're talking about this module right here. I Believe in the driver side horn works.

Okay, so let's pull up some data. It says it has high resistance on the circuit. Let's see if we have data pids in here for resistance. so we're going to back out of trouble.

Codes: Oh, that's what I wanted. It was right there. Going back into trouble Codes: Data: This is what we're looking for. Uh, we want current data.

It says the fault is present right now according to the trouble code and looks like we have here we go: Driver's Airbag First Circuit Resistance in Ohms Fail. See that second resistance Driver Airbag 2.6 Ohms 2.4 Ohms on the passenger side 2.3 2.2 2.1 2.3 etc etc. Going through all of the airbags, passengers, drivers the the skirt side airbags I think there's some in the doors? Lots of safety features either way. Uh, all of the airbags and pre-tensioners are showing between 2.2 and 2.6 Ohms of resistance on the circuits.

with the exception of the one that had said fail and our fail airbag is this one right here. So we can either have a bad connection between this airbag uh, to the airbag control module which might be under the seat. it might be in the dash somewhere I'm not sure where it's located. We either have a bad connection or there's a component or the airbag itself is bad or some kind of component which busts that connection has failed.

Let us move on and check out our Uh ABS system and we're going to see if we have any trouble codes stored in ABS Now Oh, I've gone too far 2.4 I Keep doing that I'm backing out of my menus way way too far. Let's go antiock brakes right here and let's see here codes. What do we have for our indicators? Nothing. No codes present on our airbag system.

Okay or I'm sorry we Abs system, that's a new one. Um, well they said they had an ABS light and I believe them. So let's pull up data and what I'm going to do is is I'm going to pull up the pids for the wheel speed sensors. There should be four wheel speed sensor pids inside of the scan tool.

one for the right front, left front and then both of the rears. so 1, 2, 3, and four and it'll tell us the individual wheel speeds and scrolling down. Got him right here. left front, right front, left, rear, right rear 0000 0 So let's go ahead, back this thing up and we're going to watch Wheel speeds and those should change.

Let's check behind us, we have no pedestrians I can see you, nobody back there. Let's back it on up and in Reverse We've got one mile per hour so those wheel speeds are indicating. what can happen on occasion is you'll have a wheel speed sensor that can drop out and while it has lost communication and connection, the thing can kick the lights on and cause a code to set, but then after you shut it down and then restart, the light would be off because it's not. Uh, it's not looking for any kind of signal to occur.

So having no signal communication from a sensor would not trigger the light to be on. So as it self tests when you key it on, uh, it can either leave the light off or leave it on. Now if there's codes, they can stay stored in the system and may or may not turn off. Hello School Bus So while I'm waiting on this Brak and traffic, what we're going to do is we're just going to go for a quick spin around the block I'm going to keep an eye on these wheel speed sensors while we drive.

If I see that we're driving along at x amount of speed and then one of the sensors drops out. Then we're going to know we have an affected bearing or an affected sensor and that could be, uh, an issue. So far, they're all in Syn and they're lining up. Now when we do things like go around a turn or change directions.

uh, those get like a 1 or 2 mph variable but that's not enough to trigger an issue and that's normal cuz if you're turning and your outside Wheels Like let's say, we're making a right, your outside Wheels have a farther distance to travel than the inside wheels. So in theory these the inside Wheels would turn slower and the outside Wheels would turn faster. So that is actually built into the programming. Uh Logic for these Abs systems.

so it does look for that. But if we make a right-hand turn and we're going 12 M hour then One sensor drops down to 2 mph. Uh, that's too much of a difference and it won't appreciate it. Watch right here.

See it. Here we go. We're making a right and we saw a slight difference in wheel speeds so that's fairly normal. Not seeing any kind of issue there.

Let's uh, what else did they talk about? Cruise control? Let's hit our cruise and's see if that cruise control is going to work at this time. So it, uh, it did initiate and come on. see the cruise indicator. We'll head up and over the bridge.

How's our traffic looking? Yep, ring ring. Let's go. We'll head over the bridge, turn on cruise control and see if it holds. So let's speed it on up.

Accelerating 88 mph. Yeah, How about 50? Yep, 50 is fine. Let's go ahead and set it. Cruise is set and it is not holding.

It's not setting. see that we are declining or our speed is declining and it will not set and will not resume. So it turns on, but it will not actuate. Okay Lane Switch: Let's get back to the shop.

so we verify that the airbag system does have a fault. We verified that the cruise control is inoperative and we don't have much to go off of regarding our wheel speed sensors and ABS system. So I think we're going to work on that airbag thing first. Um, I have I've got a slight inclination that since we have two systems that are located within the steering wheel, I'm thinking that there's a bad connection in here somewhere.

That's what I think. So let's head back to the shop. we'll get it back into the building out of the sunlight, and uh, we can begin to further invasively diagnose this particular vehicle. So stay tuned because this will be a very good videoing.

Z Hood Look who that guy is. All right folks back at the shop. I've been hanging out at a couple red lights back there. There's a boatload of traffic this afternoon don't know why, and uh, in my free time I Had a moment to kind of reflect and really think about this.

Uh, I Think my strategy here is going to be to test out the most likely cause of this uh, of this fault first. So what I'm employing here is a problem solving strategy where I'm looking at two systems that should be completely separate from each other. You've got an airbag, which is a safety restraint system, Then you've got the cruise control business, which is simply just a driver convenience system, and now, normally, uh, those would actually have nothing to do with each other. However, they are both located in the steering wheel Like what we talked about earlier.

Now, because the steering wheel turns and rotates around. You can't connect these electrical connectors with a wire going down to the steering column to connect to the other modules. So you've got to have some kind of a device that allows an electrical connection to pass between two moving components. And inside of here, there's a component called the clock spring.

Uh, The clock spring is a device that allows for a rotational motion and movement to occur and yet still be able to conduct and uh and transmit electricity through said device. So it's basically just a big rotating wiring harness type of Uh component. There we go. It's a it's a component.

So I think I'm going to pull the steering wheel off of this vehicle and we're going to inspect our clock spring component located behind the steering wheel and behind the airbag and we will see if there's any damage to that or, uh, bad connections. Perhaps it's full of dirt and grime or whatever. We're going to inspect and test that first before we do anything else because it seems logical we have one component that two sets of systems are are working with, and yet both of those systems are inoperative. So we're going to check the that clock springing straight away and see if that has anything to do with our our situation here powering down.

Now how do we get the airbag and steering wheel off? you may ask. We're going to do that very carefully and I believe the answer is right here. See that little hole right there. not the big one, the little one.

See that guy over here On the other side. There is another little hole right right in there. You guys see that now at the bottom of that hole. It's going to be hard to see through the camera, but there is a metallic little button.

We're going to go in there with a little screwdriver. Press that button, see that it popped loose top of the airbag there. So now we going to go around to the other side, poke our device in and that's just a little torque bit on a driver. Poke that in and I think that released.

Yep, we pull the airbag back out. Did I get it? Yes, Sure did. And it looks like there might be one more maybe at the bottom? Yeah, I think there is. There's one more at the bottom.

So we've got two of those bad boys popped loose. Let's get this bottom one here. Yer Got it? Okay, so now our airbag is loose from the steering wheel. Reposition myself some, pull this unit out and take a peek.

What's going on? Yep, there's our suspected unit. the thing that's plugged in behind all this other business. So we need to get this airbag disconnected from the rest of the, uh, the wiring here. Now that was the horn button wire.

See that I push the horn. We have no horn action anymore. That's the horn button. and these two connectors are for our airbag, uh, deployment circuits.

Now we saw on the scan tool how there was a A drivers one airbag and then Driver 2 circuit. We have Driver 1 and Driver two. So there's two separate circuits that can actuate this airbag. They build redundancy into them because it's a it's a safety mechanism.

So I need to get a flat bladed little screwdriver. Pop these little safety Clips loose and those are actually um, I think those are designed to actually short the wires together when they're pulled back and loose and what that does is prevent accidental deployment of the explosive in the airbag. Must be done care and with caution because if you blow an airbag up in your face, uh, you can die and that would be bad and we will need a little pocket screw pry driver to pop those clips out. Let's head back into the cabin here and see what we've got to work with.

So what we need to do is get behind this little piece of plastic here without breaking it. We don't want to break these things and we pop those guys up until they stop. See that now that should should have shorted that airbag circuit I Don't know if it actually did or not. I'm not certain that all of these connectors have a shorting bar built into them, but I think they all do.

I think I think I'm not 100% on that. So if I'm wrong. sorry. but that's my understanding.

Anyway, here's our airbag. This thing is now separated and saish, we're going to put that over here. Don't fall, Stay right there. Now we're free to, uh, start pulling apart the steering wheel and and what I'm going to do.

We're going to go after our big Center nut right here. I Think that's a 21 mm. Take that guy loose and we should be able to just wiggle the steering wheel off. I May have to use a puller, but we'll try to just yank it off first and then see what happens.

Okay A Little bit of action with the 38 gun here from Milwaukee Unclick There we go. have to recover the nut and really easy to forget. but there's the uh little washer in there. H So on the steering wheel, you can see the shaft coming through from the steering column.

Then we've got this uh, big aluminum housing here and that splines into the shaft that way it cannot rotate on the shaft whether or not the nut is on or not. Then we've got these two threaded holes right here and those are designed for the bolts on a puller. So what we need to do is get this puller in position right here. We're going to bolt it on using these bolts, then we will install, or we'll do it simultaneously.

Install this threaded Rod here. That threaded Rod is going to press against the center stud and as these bolts hold onto that aluminum housing, it's going to pull the housing away from the uh studded section of the column. So what I need to do here? Let's thread this guy on. I'm assuming there's a master spline in there, meaning you can only put the steering wheel on in one orientation, but that's not always the case.

So I need to rotate the steering wheel Get in there please I need to rotate this wheel so it's uh, horizontal on a flat plane that way. I Don't put it on at the wrong angle and then we're driving down the road with a sideway steering wheel. So we just kind of Ang that like so that's straight and level according to my eyeballs and now we just need to run this. Center stud down and it's going to press against the shaft and pull the wheel off of the shaft.

One could also Mark the splines in this thing with a like some paint or a cray or a marker or something. but I think just holding it level is sufficient. So now it cracked loose, You heard the snap, crackle and pop and all that good stuff. So now the steering wheel is free from the shaft.

Okay, so let's go ahead and pull our puller back off. We will not need this anymore. Set this guy aside and then we can remove the steering wheel so we're still Level and we're still splined in. Let's pull that back.

taking care to not yank the wires out and I have made an airor I Have to unplug this connector right here that stays with the steering wheel. This is probably the circuitry for all the buttons and controls, so we pull that back off and stay here. It looks like there is in fact a master spline in there, so I don't have to worry about clocking this in the incorrect position. so I think I'm going to have to pull this bezel and whatnot.

KN off of here to get some more access to our clock spring assembly I Cannot tell if it is damaged at this point or not, but we can check that with a meter. I think Philips screwdriver coming in. Let's pop these little screws slash nuts or bolts or whatever out of here. It's a screw and a and a bolt and that should separate the two halves of our little bezel right here.

Let's try to snap pop this thing loose. There we go. that's clipped in and on the bottom. There's another screw down here on the bottom.

Let me get that one out real fast. Like that guy loose. There's probably a couple of screws that hold this device to the inners of the steering column in nerds. Interiors inside.

Yep, there's our screw. Save that for later and it's looking like no screws, but there are some clips here. We got one one going right here. Let's uncp that and then one on the other side.

Looks like there's one up top as well somewhere. Yeah, it's back here. There we go. Let's pull this guy off the shaft.

and now we need to disconnect it electronically. Now this is something to pay attention to see. We have the yellow connector. This connector is connected to these connectors.

So I supect that our faulty connection or high resistance is somewhere in here between this connector and these connectors. So what we will do is we're going to disconnect all this good stuff and pull these guys apart. We can test it with a meter. We'll just check resistance between 1, 2, 3 and four pins inside of here and then these four pins.

if resist distance is way way off. We know that our fault is here and if it's also open circuit, we know that our fault is here. So that's how we're going to have to test this component. Okie Dokie! back at the bench, let's get our testing apparatus set up here.

Got the Fluke meter and I have a lead attached or it will be attached. I've got this blue lead right here connected to our ground. Okay, that's kind of an extension and that allows me to put on this little lead right here. So I can probe depends on our airbag circuits to.

but what we're going to do is we're going to probe one of the circuits for the airbag side and then flip it over to the other side. Now this was the yellow connector. So that tells me that this is the uh, the other side of the airbag circuit where the vehicle plugs into it. We're just going to go through and we're looking.

7 KMS We're looking for the correct wire here. 109 It's 109. Ohms, that's weird. open loop or o o So one of these two is the correct one.

but they they're both coming back with a reading. Two pins, one reading see, that's 98 Ohms 87 Ohms Okay, that's that's odd, But okay. let's check the next pin: 3.3 Ohms So that's correct 3.1 Ohms o and O So This circuit over here was giving us some erroneous readings. We're going to come back to that later.

Let's check these other two real quick and just make sure that they have a decent resistance value. So we'll plug it into the second circuit that was giv us 3.4 Ohms and the next one over. That should say wonder why it's giving us resistance on that pin as well. 3 Ohms Next one O Next one: o Okay, yeah, my I may have just been flawed in my testing mechanism in case there is a shorting bar in these connectors.

Let push those tabs back. see how we closed them up just to make sure that, uh, there's not a shorting bar there Cuz I was getting resistance on both pins from the same connction and I shouldn't have been. Let's recheck that. Uh, 2 Ohms 2.6 Okay, so both sides, we're giving resistance one more time.

3.4 2.4 Okay, so we are getting circuit resistance between the two. Let's check the blue connector next: 2.9 Ohms Pin number two: 2.9 Ohms. All right, let's check this next one. 41 Ohms.

Yeah, 41 41 40 Okay, so we found two 2.6 3 Ohms on the yellow connector. both terminals, but this uh, Teal / blue one was giving us resistance and the 40 Ohm range. Let's go back and recheck it one more time. 41.5 Let's switch our pin to the next one.

That one's giving us 2.3 Okay, then back to this one: 41 1/2 So that circuit is affected with high resistance. Let's check the uh, the yellow connector one more time 2.1 and the next one. What was that? 2 2.3 Okay, all righty. Well now I'm convinced that we do have an issue inside of this clock spring component.

Uh, so I Feel a lot better about performing an autopsy since I do not have a new one just yet? It's uh, it's in the pipeline. We just walked away and uh, got one ordered when you guys weren't looking. So let's pop these tabs off right here and see if we can't visually identify where the fault is. Maybe we can.

Maybe we can't I don't know. it might be. It might look completely normal in here, but it also might look like junk. So let's pull this guy apart and see what happens.

Well, it's not really what I wanted to do I wanted to do that slowly, not instantly and we will not be able to test very much in here. We have small circuitry. We have a ribbon connector for wires. kind of like what used to be in the old PCS just a big ribbon.

The way this works is these ribbon connections wrap around and they have space as they wrap and unwrap for the user to turn their steering wheel. Yet this thing still makes an electrical connection. Either way, that's how it works. There's going to be no further testing inside of here.

This thing is definitely junk now that I've taken it apart and and strung its springiness. So now we're just waiting for a new one to show up. We'll be good to go. Hope it gets here soon.

All righty x Amount of time has passed and we have a replacement unit right here. and it's appearing to me that the connectors are the same and these connectors here are the same. They're also, are we color coded the right way? Yep, we've got the teal and the yellow so we have a good replacement unit. Let us go ahead and get this guy installed.

Then we can, uh, check everything with the scan tool, make sure resistance values are good, and then uh, get this car back on the row ad I'm uh I'm hoping fingers crossed that we fix the cruise control issue at the same time as the airbag issue. Uh I Believe that it's going to be the same problem, but you also never really know. So what we need to do is get get this unit plugged in. how'd that plug go? I Think she plugs in this direction? Maybe that one h No.

Oh, here we go. We got it. It goes. It goes like so right.

Yeah, Get in there, connector, click all right. that one's in, and then our little white one over here. Get that guy connected. Snap you in.

It's good. Now we can slip this up and over the colum. Then this guy snaps into place. It's got alignment pegs here, and then these little Clips right here.

one at the top, snap that one in, and then that one right there. Click action complete. All righty. Next, let's put the bezel back together, Slip that guy through, get it up in position, hold it up, and then snap the top half together.

Then we can start getting the screws in position. We'll get the two easy ones. first, that one there next, right here. Let's go ahead and lock this down.

screw. click that Gu is good, and then then our third screw down at the bottom. Let put that on our driver, feed it up through the hole here. Let me find there it is.

Go and screw that guy in. Oh good. The screw's catching and it fell out and then it fell into my shoe. That's fun.

redo one more time. Beautiful. All right. Bottom screw is in position.

Now we need to feed the steering wheel in. so what we'll do is slip these two airbag wires through the Gap lining up our Master spline to connect our connector for the steering wheel controls. Then we've got the lock washer and the big nut. Spread that down.

Let's give it some impacts, tighten that down, and then we'll get the airbag and the horn button re reattached. All right. Couple impacts here. That guy is secure.

Lock the wheel down. Now let's go ahead and plug in. How's this going to go? Plug in our connectors for the bags. I Think this is weird.

It's going to go this way. I Believe you better have the right connectors or I'm going to lose my cool. It's up. I Have them upside down so it's going to go this way.

Snap that guy in, lock it down, and then the next one push it in. Lock it down. Of course, we cannot forget our horn button connector right there. Give it a push.

the horn sounds, it's clicked in. There we go. Now it's key on restarting the engine and we may now pull up our data. Let's go ahead and take a look.

Current data and the survey says waiting, waiting, waiting. We have correct resistance. driver's airbag resistance Ohms 2.8 Ohms. There you go.

See that right there? We're at 2.8 on circuit number one. so now we just need to clear the trouble codes out and we'll watch that uh, that light turn off. So let's go ahead and back up some back into codes menu. Okay, same codes as before.

backing it out clear, clear trouble codes Key on engine off so let's power it down, Hit the button, key it back on powering back up, but we are engine. Off Systems coming to life and erase trouble codes Dtc's erased, power it back off, power it back on restocking the engine and the survey says airbag light is gone All right I Had my heart Sun sank sunk for a moment there. Uh, let's see here. let's turn on cruise Control so that actuates turn Off cruise control that actuates backing out the auto reverse horn for safety, checking surroundings for safety it says so on the screen, checking mirrors, both sides looking good.

Let's go out. Hit the road here. Cruise control on I'm very confident that I will solve that cruise control issue. Although it has remained undiagnosed, it makes sense that that was also a problem.

Uh-oh Tow truck back there I'm getting in the way sorry Sam See you later. Traffic's clear, we're good to go. We riding okay, cruise control is on. Let's go ahead and hit set set.

Aha look at there cruise control has set and we're holding at 30 Something 2 mph red light braking I Think we got it guys, we got it Good Beautiful, all righty. Well that will conclude today's Diagnostic and Repair on this particular Hyund. Sonata Hope you guys enjoy this video. Hope you found it to be mildly entertaining and perhaps somewhat educational if you did did find it to be either of those two things.

Please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like And subscribe button while you're down there. And most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day again! Thank you guys for watching! Appreciate you being here all the way to the end. Hope to see you on the next one end the video.

end of diagnosis End of transmission c Car Oh by the way, in case you guys are wondering I know half of you are uh no I have not found anything wrong with the ABS system on this car just yet. uh I'm going to have to drive it again later on. Um, put some miles on it and see if I can't get those codes to come back up. See you guys later.

Thanks again for watching in video H Powering Down goodbye Sonata.