Hello Everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back We return to the Part Two Repair video of our 2012 Doge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi V8 It has approximately where's the key? Let's see what our mileage is. here. it has approximately Come on. Doge Wake Up 167 465 miles on the odometer.

Customer had stated that when going off-road in four-wheel drive, they felt a vibration. uh in the drivetrain. We previously inspected it I Ended up pulling out the front drive shaft and we found that that front universal joint had a binding. Condition You See Since this thing has been lifted, there is a less of a Driveline angle and that U-joint is actually running straight with the drive shaft.

so it never had any chance to move around. Because of that, it kind of rusted and or the needle bearings dried up and it sort of binds in its position. It will move, but it doesn't move very much and because of that resistance in there, it's causing a vibration in that drive shaft while in four-wheel drive. Now, the problem with that universal joint is that we are unable to service just the U-joint Move this thing on up.

I'll show you what we're talking about. There we go. All right. So this U-joint in this drive shaft is actually not serviceable.

We can see right here how those U-joint cups are staked in. Yes, it can be removed in some capacity, but that's going to require boat loads of effort. So much so that the amount of time and labor that it would take to actually get those U-joints out would exceed the the cost of replacing the entire drive shaft. So over there in a box on the floor, we have a replacement drive shaft.

so we're going to pop this shaft out, pop that new shaft in, and that will complete that section of the repair. However, there's more over here on the right front CV Axle I Found foreign section where this CV joint meets the intermediate shaft which goes into the differential. Now the issue here is there's a whole bunch of motion in those splines between this shaft and this shaft right here, and that is also a very likely cause of potential vibration. So what we're going to do is attempt to get this thing out.

The issue is is there is a snap ring on those splines and that snap ring can become full of rust and due to that rust and snap ring I may not be able to get this section of the shaft out from that intermediate shaft. We're going to go ahead and soak this down with some penetrating oil and then I'm going to attempt to get that thing off of there. If I can't get it off, we'll have to take the front differential apart and actually remove that intermediate shaft from the differential and then replace both units. I Think I can get it apart, but there's a possibility that I can't so we're gonna have to cross that bridge when we get there.

All right cruising back in. So To start off with, let's get some penetrating oil into that shaft right here. As best we can look at that, there's rust running out with lubricant. See that right there? It's on the little foamy stuff.

Just rotate that around a little bit more here and we'll give it one more quick spray. Let that soak in nice and deep black. There we go. It's a foaming penetrating oil.

You know it's good. Oh yeah, there's boat loads of corrosion rust in there. All righty. we're gonna leave that alone and let it soak in.

We're gonna move back around over here to the driver's side and get to work on that front drive shaft. Stay tuned. This is gonna be a fairy. Good video openings the hood.

All right. Let's crack open our case here and see what we've got inside of our box. We've got a spline driven front drive shaft. How do I get this thing out of the wrapper here.

Come here. Someone's already gotten it out of the wrapper. Look at that. Maybe they sent it back.

So you know? look at here at this drive shaft. This U-joint is serviceable. See how it's got that sir ring in it, that clip which will hold the U-joint cups in there? I Don't see a zerk fitting for grease, but they don't all have it. That's the difference between this shaft and the Mopar OE shaft.

This one will be serviceable in the future. That one back there is not constant velocity joint up here at this. Uh at the other side and you can also see it's been balanced. See that right there? See a little weight that they tacked on? So this thing, oh, it's been balanced over there too.

Whoa. All right. So let's go ahead and get this thing removed from the vehicle and we'll get that new one swapped in. Look everybody, my darling wife unit has graced us with her presence.

Hi darling, Welcome back! Yeah, it's been a couple weeks. She's been out of the office tending to uh, our middle child. He had to have his tonsils taken out. Poor little guy.

but uh, now he's back in. Action I'm sure he's running around here somewhere I think I saw him go in the office but she's back. The kids are back and everybody's back. I'm so glad to see you hi back to work! Yay! Get both of these front wheels off so we've got a bit of space to maneuver with and then we'll go from there.

All right. Come here. Heavy Wheel: These things are stupid heavy. They're 35 1250, 22s Q rated bro and they're in their lightweight uh-oh centering ring fell out.

These things are super critical to aftermarket wheels. These are what uh makes that wheel hub Centric See, there's uh. there's two kinds of Wheels there's lug Centric and there's Hub Centric Hub Centric Wheels The actual Rim The wheel will be centered on the Hub face lug Centric Wheels like a Mercedes Volkswagen BMW uh Audi Volvo They don't have a stud, they've got just a big lug bolt that goes in and those wheels are going to be lug. Centric So when you put an aftermarket wheel on your car, if you have a hub Centric application, you need these little adapters.

That way, the wheel will fit to the hub exactly as it's designed. If you don't do that, they will vibrate. I Mean, they're probably going to vibrate anyway because look at them. but you got to have this little guy on there to prevent a excessive vibrations.

Fun fact of the day. All right, while we're here, let's get some lubrication on these big nuts. That way they don't bind up while I try to remove them since I got the cantaloupe. Lube Indeed.

Like there we go. All right. So this front shaft. this drive shaft should be a very easy operation.

If I can get the right size sockets, let's try an 18. Yep, there we go. This should be a very easy operation. You take this thing out, put the other one in.

That's gonna be no problem. The hard part I think is going to be those front CV Axles come here nice and easy. Now you'll notice the presence of this aluminum spacer right here. That is there.

Because again, this thing has like a six inch lift on it and that caused this front differential to be lowered down slightly. Looks like it's about two or three inches based on that bracket right there. Because of that, it changed the space between or change the relationship rather between this differential and the transfer case, and it probably shortened the drive shaft overall length. hence the spacer.

I Don't think that spacer came Factory With this, it may have, in my hypothesis, is incorrect, but I'm pretty sure that this is part of the lift kit as well. Dodge Ram Guys, you service these at the dealership or you did. Do you know if that's Factory or if that's a ridge or uh, or if that's after market? Uh, let me know in the comments down below while you're doing that, I'll show everybody else this uh U-joint right here. See that right there how it's smooth rotted throw, but then when it's in its resting position, there's like a bump.

It's binding ever so slightly. Now when this drive shaft is turning a couple hundred. RPMs As you're driving. RPM As you're driving, that binding can turn into a vibration.

And it did. And it will. And that is the reason that this thing has a low speed vibe in four-wheel drive. Okay, looking off to the right a little bit, we're gonna focus on the transfer case side.

All I really need to do here is pry away this dust boot from the transfer case I'm going to try to do this without breaking the straps I Just pry this guy away and it should spline off. I Uh I Had to take care to not damage that dust boot because I don't have a replacement. so I'm gonna need to reuse that so we're gonna get behind it and just push that clamp off and then the dust boot will come with the drive shaft so we can just pull the thing out in here and get a hold of it. Here it comes, drive shaft removed.

Come on out. There we go. It's free of the splines. Good All right.

let's get out of here. spin around over to the roll carts and we can, uh, compare these two shafts and make sure that the replacement is going to be suitable. Okay, the whole shaft, new shaft coming in. look left a little bit and compare these universals to make sure we're on point with that diagnosis.

See how that's nice and smooth? Nice and smooth. This one is not nice and smooth. It's actually loose and then it binds. It's loose and then it binds.

There we go. Okay, moving on over to the left a little bit. We need to recover this. Dust Boot and get that installed on the new unit.

Now like I mentioned I do not have a replacement clamp so I need to be able to take these apart and reuse them. Watch that show you how we're going to do this here. it'll be like we were never here. If I can get this apart, there we go.

Unclip right? Here is how it clamps. So what I need to do is just open that up some different pliers. We're going to open that clamp up just a wee bit and then when I go to reinstall it I can re-clamp the clamp and let's try this tool. This is actually the tool for clamping these clamps and I'm going to see if it works for unclamping these clamps as well.

a little bit of bending action. it's opened up some. so now when I go to put this back on, I'll just have to get behind it with this tool, clamp that thing back down, squeeze it in and it'll cinch this thing tight. I'll do the same on both of these unless I can get this one to slide over.

Oh yeah, yeah, yeah. Perfect. Okay, so now I got to do is just squeeze that down a little harder and it'll cinch down on that shaft and then we're good to go. So I've only got to redo one clamp.

Give it a minute. Okay, so real quick before we get this thing reinstalled I want to get a little bit of Grease on these splines right here. That way they don't rust like those front CV axles did. So what will happen is that can rust and then these metal pieces can't move freely between each other and they will, uh, they'll wear each other out, You'll get excessive play and you don't want excessive play on your splines.

All right Shaft back to your home. Let's get this thing reinstalled and back on the transfer case. Drive shaft coming in. Get that thing splined in I'll worry about the clamp after we Bolt the front yoke in.

Get to that. the last there it goes slid right in. Beautiful looking left. We're gonna go ahead and get our spacer back in position here and then we can bolt in the shaft.

get that lined up. Let's spinner around. As always. I'm going to put in all the fasteners before I start to tighten them, see how that's got some play in it.

There's a chance if I tighten one of them down, it won't be aligned at the other three holes and then you'll end up cross threading your bolt and ruining things. And that's just not the goal here. That would be bad. There we go.

Got some impact clicks going on this and uh, we're gonna be all set. So powerful I Need to buy another rigid gun the non-fuel version because this fuel gun is a Powerhouse Beast I meant octane, not fuel fuel is the Milwaukee version. See for yourself I Put a link to it in the description to Amazon down below. Here we go, Commissioner in full disclosure: if you buy one through my link I get a cut and that's pretty cool.

Okay, we've migrated around to underneath the vehicle. We're now behind the transfer case. This is the spline drive right here and there's our boot. So what? I need to do? Slide that boot back against the transfer case and we can start to reclamp the thing down.

Now get this thing clamped down. That's the easy one. Squeeze that some and we're good that one's in. And now for the one that I had to kind of redo.

All right, let's get this. uh, this clamp in position. get it cinched down and see if this is going to work. and I think it is.

Come on. Oh yeah, yeah, yeah. Yep. it snapped in.

the little hooks have caught. We're in business here now. let's get some, uh, some clamp action on that. We're in good shape.

Cinch down on that. I'm taking care to not pinch the uh, the rubber I don't want to cut a hole in it. There we go. Good to go.

Dust boot installed. We're all set down here. All right. let's get out of here because it's a billion degrees and move on to those front CV axles.

All right. So earlier, you mentioned that this rigid octane impact is a little too powerful and it was for what I was using it for back there. However, for things like this with a 36 millimeter sockets, it's not too powerful. It's gonna be great.

Yeah, walk it right off. No problem. Let's see if the shaft is free. Yes, it is.

This is good. Okay, so now what we need to do in order to get this axle out is: I've got to make some space for it to come out and I've got to make some space to get this part of the shaft out of the hub assembly inside. So what I want to do is we're going to remove this upper ball joint and maybe this tie rod over here and that's going to allow me to swing the steering knuckle away from the axle. and I should be able to fish the thing out through this side right here.

Let's see if the uh, the 3 8 90 degree impact will pull this nut off. half inch? No, this was the half inch. I'm sorry, yes it will. Good, Very good.

Let's put that on there for some protection. I'm going to give this a couple Taps of the hammer and that might jar the ball joint loose. If not, we'll have to use a puller to pop that thing out. Now when I said Hammer I meant pneumatic.

Hammer We're going to do the Uh Sierra powered unit. Loud noises. Look at that. That was beautiful.

That's what I wanted to see. Dude. Now the knuckles freeish. Put that on so it doesn't get lost.

Ball joint feels good. Unhook That ABS wire a little bit so it's got more space. All right. Looking down below a little bit, let's see I've got the space to get this axle out and I don't think so.

let's go ahead and take that tie rod off next. we're gonna need to loosen. uh, this right front powder. Same protocol as we used on the Uh on the ball joint up there.

Come out nut down. It didn't go far. Let's give this linear impacts. Uh, no.

seriously there see I insulted its integrity and it capitulated. There we go. Now this axle should come out no problem. Let's give it a push.

All right. I think I've got enough space here. Easy brake lines getting a little stretched. hold on I need to disconnect that bracket.

give me some more space. The last thing I want to do here is damage it. a brake line trying to save an axle. We're not going to do that.

That's his bad idea that will. Flex this steel line a little bit, but I don't think it's going to cause a problem. Yeah, there's plenty of motion there we go. All right, let's back it up and push this axle out.

See here. Come on now. don't make me take the ball joint and the brakes off I don't want to do that I'm not going to do that. now.

you're gonna come out. It is my bill. almost. Come on There we go.

came out some. we're getting somewhere. Pry bar Ry Bar for everything Maybe If I can find something to pry off of here, this ought to be fun to put back together. Oh, hitting you guys in the face with pry bars.

That's nothing new. You should be used to it by now. I would be come out of there I Almost had it come out here. it comes.

you're here. It has achieved some freedom. Now for the hard part I need to figure out how to get that thing separated from the splines and I think the air hammer is going to do it for us. but since this thing has this huge old lift kit on it, we need to.

uh well, it has this big skid Shield thing I Want to get behind it right here with a Uh with the impact and try to drive that thing off of its intermediate shaft. So we're going to need to remove this skid plate. looks like it's a Torx or now and Allen 45 or 40 Maybe Let's go see what we've got here. The master kit has what we need and I choose this one.

Seven thirty seconds. Let's see if that's the correct. Yes it is. Went right in.

Perfect. All right. let's see what we can do about getting this uh skid panel thing removed. Not a chance we need a manual ratchet I'll be sad to learn that these are lock tied it in.

That's in there. It was so violent when it untwisted that the reverberations turned the ratchet to the tightening. See, now it wants to tighten. So it actually changed the position of the ratchet.

These guys are in there on. click. Those are some serious clicks too. Let's get this next one over here.

Wild Yeah, two more. I Think there we go. Okay, now the impact can pull it out. Time to pick up some speed.

Uh oh man. there's nuts on the back of this. No way. Come on Lift kit guys.

look at that. They put a nut back there that makes this even harder. Whatever. I figured that would shred it or something like that was wrong.

Got it next? Need a wrench? I Can't finger all the nuts that uh that didn't come out right. sounded a little uh, well. that was off. We'll just leave it at that.

Come here. Come out. These come out there All right. That's one side.

Done juking left. let's get this other side removed wrench Driver unclick. two more to go. Ah, the real task here is going to be getting this out without dropping it.

Start to lower. Let's see I need to get my wrench on the nut, which that's almost impossible. Remove control, arm there. Woohoo! it's heavier than I Thought there's your gas mileage right there guy.

Thank you. 20 pound steel plate to protect another steel plate? All right. Okay, so the reason for all that rigmarole was space right here. I Need to get after this.

CV axle at this angle with the hammer to try to drive it off of that intermediate shaft. That's kind of the hang up here. So This Is The Moment of Truth This is going to determine whether this is a 1.3 hour job or a 6.5 hour job. plus begin unclicking.

Um, not thrilled. Oh, did it move? Nope. No, it's not wanting to come out. That's not okay.

So the issue is is inside of that little collar. there's a C-clip and that c-clip is Rusted and it won't let go. We need to break that rust free. So I'm gonna try to get this with a side load.

Let's see if we can't knock that ring loose, we'll rotate it some. hit it again, rotate it again. hit it again. compressor engage because it's so hot.

All right, let's get some more lubricant down inside of those splines. We're gonna need it with all that rust coming out. Bros Flush it, it's so bad. All right.

I'm gonna hit it again and then we'll try to knock it off off and out. One more good one. There we go. let's see if it's gonna come out now.

Please come out. can't get it stable? Man should have been an astronaut. All right. Well now I'm at an impasse.

Uh, forcing this out is not going to work. and I really do not want to disassemble this differential in order to pull this intermediate shaft out to only still have that thing stuck together. So I'm going to have to escalate this to a level of violence. If that doesn't work, we'll escalate to the next level.

But I'm going to chop this into pieces because it can't be stuck if it's in multiple pieces. So I'm going to start to cut this thing up I'm going to try to cut it like right here, all the way around the circumference and then perhaps I'll be able to cut like a line this way to break this apart some, and once it's broken apart, I may be able to hammer that thing off, but as it sits right now, I'm I'm beyond my capability to get that apart without a little bit of invasive repair attempts. So we're going to chop this thing to pieces and then see how that goes. It's going to take a while, so we're gonna do that in super high speed, lightning fast motion.

So sit back, enjoy the music, and uh, we'll see how this works out. All right, Here goes nothing. I'm going to cut it right at the area where the the snap ring should be. We'll see how it works out.

maybe the other way. Okay, no turning back now. I've uh, I've done irreparable damage now. I'm gonna try to break away the area that I've cut to give some exposure to those splines into that that snap ring.

see if that's going to work here I don't know I don't think I cut deep enough yet? No, not yet. foreign guys. So I've got an angle cut in there. there's a ring cut all the way around and then I've got an angle that's almost all the way through.

I have not made it to the intermediate shaft yet I'm gonna go in there next with the air hammer and we're going to try to start to break up what I've cut away so far we're going to Chip Away pieces as they come loose. I'll have to go back to the grinder I'm sure a couple times, but if I can just peel this away, we'll be able to get the axle out. Let's see if it's gonna work moved. might be working.

Yeah, see that that piece is moving now. let's make it all the way broken. Yep, there's a big old crack in it coming through. Perfect crack.

Went all the way through over to the other side. see the splines I see them. It's exposed. There it is.

There's our spine. almost. See if I can drive this axle off now. Go baby Go! Ah, not yet.

Not yet. It moved, but then it hung right back up. Again, close but no cigar. All right while we're grinding 20 minutes later.

All right. Well let's see here since that, uh, an air hammer wasn't doing it, let's just try it with the big Mallet see if I can't Uh, can't get it going from here, huh? I'm getting pretty tired I'm getting some noodle arm just running that tool. Oh yeah, sweet. it came out.

got it all right. See if I can't get this little piece out of here? No. I'd like to cut that one off probably. Let's try.

see if I can't just break it? Come on you. get out of there. there we go. Got it.

See that there's the ring. A little snap ring right there. That guy is what causes this to get some Rust in there. The Met snap ring doesn't let go and you can't get it to come out of that little Groove see the groove inside of the axle right there? Probably it's hot.

that thing rests inside of that Groove and you can't get them to come apart which I just did. So if anybody's got this problem now, you know how to how to remedy it. Cut off wheels for the win. All right Oh man.

I'm so relieved this thing came out of here. So let's get. uh, let's get this axle out I Had to pull my gloves off. they were dripping sweat and saturation.

Okey-dokes Now that the easy part's out of the way, let's get this thing cleaned up and I need to inspect it very closely to make sure it's going to be reusable or not. Beginning cleaning procedure now Sponsored: O'reilly's great Clean some machine power. see there's a lot of rust in there. Goodbye crustiness.

Oh air. Okay, so that's not good enough I need to uh up the game with the brake clean Pressure washer I don't know ring was harboring some Rust foreign closer inspection I think this is in good shape. We never hit it with the grinder and these splines don't look horrible I can see all the edges on them I Can see little crosshatch machine marks on it so there's not excessive wear on the splines. You tells me that these splines are a harder metal than uh, than what's on the axle.

so I won't have to change this shaft. Let's go ahead and unbox that axle and get that guy installed and we can get this. uh, this side of the truck finished up. Okay, so in order to prevent this from reoccurring, we're gonna throw some grease on those splines.

That way, there's plenty of lubrication and rust preventative on this shaft. Get that in there nice and deep back. I probably went a little overboard with it. There we go.

Yeah, that's a little too much, but I can wipe it off later. It's all packed into the the splines. It's packed into that snap ring. That'll be good.

Gloves are also good. Check this out. No grease on me. Okay, we've got our new shaft here.

Let's just compare it a little bit to make sure it's gonna fit properly. Dimensions Appear to be the same splined, same length. let's see same on the inboard side. A little bit different design here, which that's to be expected because these are rated as a heavy duty suitable for lifted applications and the OEM ones are not suitable for lifted applications as per the parts catalog.

So here what I need to do? Get that guy in slipped into position here. Blinds are lining up. Come on now. get in there dude.

Now am I gonna have to cut this to pieces to get it to go back together or what? Come on now. get in there. We ran it some I'm gonna Dodge Ram it. hmm okay it does not want to go over the clip so we're going to re-strategize this.

We're going to put it together from the outside in and I'll show you why in just a second bear with me, seed try something else. So what I'm going to do is go ahead and put this in on the outboard side. First, get that thing all splined up with the uh, the wheel bearing. Let me get it on the inboard spline some so it's all aligned.

So now the outboard splines are in and the inboard splines are in. What I can do is push this thing back up and we will get the upper control arm and ball joint set up to keep the steering knuckle into place. Then I can drive the axle inwards using the splines or using that little dimple right there on the outboard spline. So that's gonna.

That's gonna be the plan set this exact moment, but you'll see when it works, you'll know where I'm coming from here. Let me get this ball joint in. Oh bolts on there we go. That's secure.

Okay, so now what I can do is I can take the impact driver in a punch it in right here. that's going to push the axle back and I'll be able to apply some Force onto those splines on this inboard side as soon as the axle bottoms out. Okay, we're gonna go in. Axle Click That's in that's locked in right where we want it to be.

That was perfect. I Like it. Now here's the real litmus test here. Let's give this the shake and see what kind of play we get out of it.

There's a little bit, but not much, not like the other one was. So that is a confirmed kill on worn out splines inside of the old CV axle. Okay, let's get our last few nuts tightened up here. Ball joint Click.

Okay, we've got one more for our tie rod here. Get that guy back together that will leave us with the brake hose bracket and the ABS wire slash real speed sensor bracket. Take a juice and of course the uh, the center axle nut. Can't forget that.

And I think this side will be good to go here. Let's get this bracket back into its home here. Two bolts, not one bolt that's a beard. Yeah, that one's good.

Put that back in its clip and this side is completed. Torque you later. All right guys, that will uh about complete this side of the operation. I Still have one more to go that's probably going to take uh, at least another hour, hour and a half or so, probably some more so.

uh. That being said, since we've already seen what it looks like on one side. I'm gonna go ahead and close this video out right about now. If you would like to see the other side, have no fear, just go down to the link in this video's description and I will make another video of this other side.

but I'm not going to list it so it's going to end up being a super secret, unlisted, private only video. or if you stay to the end and if you click the link. So that being said, as always like thank you for watching this video, certainly hope you enjoyed this video and I hope to see you over on the next one. For those of you who are not going to go over to video number two which is super secret and unlisted as always, like to thank you again one more time for watching this video.

Let me know what you think about it down in the comments section below. Don't forget to tap that like button while you're down there. And most importantly, do Not forget to have yourselves a great day. See you guys later in the video Number one in the Doge Ram 1500 Hemi 5.7 V8 with four wheel drive in the day and end of transmission.

All right. So I've got a whoa Camera gravity Sorry guys Okay so I have a uh stop it camera hi ruin scene.