In this video I show you how to test your blower motor amperage if you have a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country that has a repeat failure with blower motor resistors. Please refer to the shop manual for the proper technique of testing and repairing.
Blower Motor and Resistor used in filming:
Flanged Vented CW Blower Motor w/ Wheel
Part No. 75739 Blower Motor; Front; w/ Wheel
BWD HVAC Blower Motor Resistor
Part No. RU1055P
Original video of resistor testing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDGWQ4m-sdU&index=4&list=PLaJW8Ju80ORa0rVzGyL3ll4IY76inzWRU
Blower Motor and Resistor used in filming:
Flanged Vented CW Blower Motor w/ Wheel
Part No. 75739 Blower Motor; Front; w/ Wheel
BWD HVAC Blower Motor Resistor
Part No. RU1055P
Original video of resistor testing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDGWQ4m-sdU&index=4&list=PLaJW8Ju80ORa0rVzGyL3ll4IY76inzWRU
Actually, I've seen another Chry Town and Country 2005 with a NEW Resistor and brand new motor, was drawing 25 – 26 amps on high. The Mechanic did test the Old motor before he decided it needed to be replaced. He came to the same conclusion that it was drawing too much amperage at 26 amps. Luckily before he removed the old motor, he just hooked the new motor up to the NEW resistor he had just installed and ran amp meter again, on the NEW motor outside the motor compartment, and it pulled same amount of amperage within an amp (25 amps to be exact) that the Old motor was pulling. So he stopped at the resistor replacement. Now this is not to say that the new motor he got from NAPA wasn't screwed right out of the box, it does happen, but he decided to go with the old motor too. I've not seen a follow up so don't know if he didn't have the same issue you had a few months down the road. It would be nice if Chrysler had the amps ratings: low, med and high that are supposed to be drawing on that motor. There appears to be a whole lot of guessing going on here.
Do one on a Grand Prix or Grand Am. Replaced the blower motor and resistor multiple times. But this time nothing. Frustrating
On my 2003 Silverado I have replaced 3 blower motor resistors, because the fan would not work at all. After the first one I installed a new blower motor. The blower motor resistors are still failing every six months leaving me with no fan at all. I need my defrosters to work during the winter. I am almost ready to put a 30 amp fuse with the 2 pig tails hanging out of it in the cab fuse box with 2 wires running to the blower motor with a toggle switch inline.
Hi Eric, my 2005 F 150’s blower motor just quit yesterday. I watched your video for replacing the resister on the buddies F 150 and thought cool fifteen minute job! However mine has the Automatic controls. My resister cost 185 $ at the dealer. So I bought one at Napa ( not a sponsor) for 128 $. I installed it right in the parking lot. It didn’t help! Now before I purchased the resister I checked all fuses and relays per wiring diagram.
Now having found any relays or fusses bad I pulled out the blower motor and quickly put 12 volts to it. The motor turned on,so I reinstalled
In your other related video, when you tested the resistor by checking the blower motor power connection while still plugged in, you had power at both wires and said this is not right. Can I assume when testing in this manner that if I get the correct indication (power at the green terminal, nothing at black) the resistor is good? Thank you! Thanks for the videos. They're very helpful.
I had an odd issue on my buick park avenue my hvac system was not blowing I would kick the dash and it would come on. And this is what I lived with because this is on a 2000 buick park ave with close to 300k on it so I do not want to put a whole lot of money into it. At any rate I also observed that the water pump was bad so i replaced it and then the blower started working again. My question to you is why?
Dealing with the same issue with my girls van she's got the 2006 as well and just replace the expansion valve and the dreier
Going to test the resistor in the motor tomorrow to see which one it is to get proper High blowing from the front vents on the dashboard
Hey I know this is old but what if you changed blower motor and resistor and I still get nothing..motor doesnt turn on at all..there is power to both.
Thanks for making great videos. I come to you first for all my vehicles. I am bummed that you didn’t record the blower removal since I’ve heard that it’s a pain and have now watched others and hoped you had a better way. Keep up the good work though!! Thanks!
My heat and A/C only blows on the highest setting. It doesn't do anything on any of the lower settings. What could the problem be?
Could it be the knob?mine i changed the resistor,the filter checked the fuses the back heater works but nothing in the front?can u help me?
Thnk u i have a question
Thanks for your Video! Mine kept blowing and i had an assortment of them from Garys u pull it Junk Yard! for spares! The van has 240,000 on it and im Trying to hit 300,000 ! I will change the Blower motor next!
I just watched Ivan tested an 01 Chrysler 26 amps. Got a new one tested it 26 amps. I've tested brand new chevy Colorado's 26 amps. Idk
It's that one effing screw in the back humping the firewall and insulated by the carpeting! It's a good thing you didn't do a repair video. You'd still be editing out F-bombs. I was a taxi fleet mechanic for a couple years and 25ish of the vehicles in the fleet were 01-07 Caravans. I forgot how much I don't miss doing that job.
I remember I had a 98 es dodge intrepid and the main unit was broken u couldn’t see the degrees in the car but it was just stuck on high and the shop wanted to replace the main unit I was like man idk so I did a little research and found out the blower motor resistor did this and all I had to do was re solder a chip and the display worked on the unit again if they would’ve replaced the main unit that would’ve been way more than just the resistor especially when the they found out the resistor was bad
Years ago we had Dodge B3500 vans.
Because the A/C systems ran so much, the front HVAC 30 Amp fuse would melt. I tested the motors with an old Craftsman combination (analog) gauge with a shunted 100 Amp scale. Ya, 22 to 25 Amps signaled motor change time. Tried using compressed air to clean out dirt from vent holes…….no good. New motor, approx 13 amps, engine running, jumper wires on battery. Chrysler came up with a "fix" involving a relay, wiring harness and separate fuse for high fan speed. Installed one kit, two months later the blower motor blew out the new fuse. Replaced motor, no more "fixes"! Great video!
Thank you for the tips we are looking at a Chrysler Town and Country now with a blower motor that will start working after a while. So I thought blower resistor or motor itself. Well be checking amps.
I have a issue where my panel won't turn on. It was working fine but soon as the abs/brake light came on the ac panel will not turn on. Not sure of the problem.
Just changed that blower motor today on a 2003 Chrysler town and country. That screw in the back of the housing was a b****. Had to pull the padding/insulator to get to it. Made sure when I went to install the housing I put a 2 inch with a sleeve to get to it easy, if there is a next time. If the engineers would have used a longer screw with a sleeve I wouldn't have had so much trouble. Engineers have to think.
Hello! I am facing dire problems with a Mercedes-Benz OEM W202 C180-class Blower Motor Regulator Resistor 2108206210 and I had to replace that Regulator twice already. The last symptom is that the fan gets stuck on high speed even when the start key is off. What are the Ohms readings of a new Regulator? I am considering replacing the Blower Motor itself. Any source for good seondhand unit? Please help. Thanks!
What is your go to scan tool ? If you could only have one……. What would it be?
Thanks for sharing your mistake.
Happens to all of us at one time or another. I do learn from my mistakes, though
I hate it too when I pull out my vantage pro from the old tool box, only to find its battery low (again) !
Eric O is a strait up guy , when your good you don't have to be shifty .
I replaced my blower motor in my 2014 impala limited over the weekend and it worked perfect for half a day. But now its on hi even with keys out of ignition. it won't shut off. Any suggestions?
I have a question for you bud and I hate to bother you so much I just took my stuff down and had the battery checked again and the alternator they're telling me my alternator is fine and my battery is fine but still my lights dim inside and outside but all their equipment tests show nothing wrong with the alternator or the battery second question blower motor went out about four weeks ago maybe a little longer did not drive the car much anyway or truck I should say 2008 GMC and everytime I see a resistor coming out of these vehicles it looks nothing like the one I have I have a bunch of metal pins that stick up looks like a bed and nails the replacement part has more then my original how do I test this thing wish there was a way I could p.m. you or do you have a Facebook page I'm kind of lost here I don't have the money to take it to a shop that's why I'm trying to do everything myself any help you can give me I would greatly appreciate
I've got a 2014 Town & Country and the air system is making this whirring sound that gets louder as I crank up the fan speed. Is my blower going out? Could you tell me what I might be looking at for the repair? I was thinking maybe I could do it myself but if it was a frustrating job for you it would probably be impossible for an amateur. Anyway any info would be helpful, thanks.
I've got a 2014 Town & Country and the air system is making this whirring sound that gets louder as I crank up the fan speed. Is my blower going out? Could you tell me what I might be looking at for the repair? I was thinking maybe I could do it myself but if it was a frustrating job for you it would probably be impossible for an amateur. Anyway any info would be helpful, thanks.
had to replace the resistor 4 times in 2 months finally got one that stopped blowing lol damn aftermarket parts only kept replacing it because of the warranty
Have you made a vidio of how to replace the blower motor yet. This is what i need to replace on mine?
Have a 05 Pontiac Vibe (same as Corolla) fan only worked on high. Replaced the resistor, and worked on all speeds (fan worked on all speeds)….now back to only working on high….any suggestions? My guess is a short or something that is killing the resistor? Fix only lasted a couple weeks….
you seems real good at tracing problems , I need my 2008 to be in your shop where you located; 🙂
good job
how can i just bypass the whole restor and just have it on high and off
Rule of thumb. Blown Resistor, change blower as well. Bad blower overcooks resistor….
Great vid and reminder to do more testing buddy. I have found that OE blower motors work best on these Chrysler products. I did the same one a while back and the customer returned saying it didn't sound the same. I ended up going with OE and it did sound much quieter. Doing it twice for the same money is twice as bad as once for the crappy pay. I think my book gave two different labor times depending on pulling the dash. I have gotten better at getting them out over time as we see quite a few. I never test for amp draw as any time I run into a resistor failure I condemn the motor as well. Thanks again for an excellent video sir!
that fastener in the back of the motor… what a pain. I work on 2003 and 2006 model Dodge Caravans. Postal
Could I measure the mV with a multimeter by back probing since I don't have an amp clamp?
Thanks, bud. This really helped. I just fixed mine 10 mins ago.
Hi Eric that motor was pulling a lot of amps how did the fuse not blow great video ,the man who never made mistakes made nothing
Hey thanks for making the video, I've been all over the place trying to figure out why the heat won't blow in my minivan. My father in law said it had to be the control board (digital temp control). Wen't to buy one of those, the guys at the store said it's probably just the blower motor or resistor. Anyhow…. I'm wondering if there is anyway I can test the amperage with a regular multimeter? I don't have one of the testers you used and I have a feeling they would probably be a little pricey.
eric nice video on the caravan blower resister can anyone tell me where I can get electrical diagrams like you use in your videos thanks
Eric – I found the Back Probe set that you used and I spoke of below. It's a MAC SP4000 4PC Back Probe Set for MACs ET1330 and ET120 Auto Logic / DVOM. Found and ordered on EBay for $12 w/shipping.
Eric — Great video. Thanks Bear Catcher 😉 And really sound words wrt finishing my testing to 'make sure what really caused the problem' before I go all out. Great words of wisdom from you. Much appreciated. Another Question.. I have been looking on Amazon and EBay for the back probes your using. Cant find the ones with the clip loop ends to connect my meter leads. I can choke plenty of the dang banana plugs and of course the "it'll cost you 1million dollars" ones from Fluke. Can you please share where to get the back probes like ones you use?
cool video ,very helpful
Good Video, and yes, I too wish you had shown us how to remove and replace the blower motor. I'm a novice vehicle repair type mechanic (Auto Shop in High School 1966) and never used amp meters. Well, guess I'll just have to have my mechanic verify if the blower is bad or the resister or both. It's 98 degree's in Sacramento, Ca today and thus need the blower to satisfy my wife.
informative, thank you…
Loved the video found informative. I have a question, changed the resistor and blower motor in my 2004 dodge grand caravan. The new problem is the vent door in the blower housing keeps opening and closing by it self. Sometimes it will do it for several minutes and sometimes once or twice and done. Will not do it again until the van is shut off and restarted. Help?