Part 2: Removing bolts with a Welder! Exhaust Manifold Bolts! Chevy Tahoe Ls 5.3 6.0 https://youtu.be/QEfIqy9tuNI
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“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
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Why not just heat them up and take them off with ease!?!?
I work on Industrial HAVC/R on the east coast and we have to deal with screws like this. It gets to the point that we grab our torches and say “it can’t be tight if it is liquid. And we will liquify the screw, bolt or nut.
Ray please remove your ring while working on vehicles, because i myself have gotton my finger smashed while wearing a ring and broke my finger the doctor had to cut the ring off my finger, as safe precoution , please as one of your loyal subscibers and watchers, thank you and bless u and your family
Black electricle tape is a machanics bandaide I know i'm a machnac myself
You are your own first responder. Remember, you need the right gear and the right training.
Breaks out the electrical tape…
I understand everybody wants to contribute something meaningful, but why do you have to say it can't be stuck if it's liquid, if it's already been said three million times? IT CAN'T BE STUCK IF IT'S LIQUID!
I'm glad I am not the only one that uses Electrical tape as a band aid. 😀
ray bugger all this stuff mate here is the car ive got , not my car but the same a great car that anybody can fix and you can stand in the engine bay check out the general motors Holdens EH station Wagon Mate from aussie enjoy thanks for the great vids Ray. cheers
It is so refreshing that you don’t edit out all the little PIA things. Any other channel would’ve made those exhaust bolts look like they all came out within the span of 30 seconds. Meanwhile I’m sitting over here halfway convinced I’m the modern day equivalent of Forest Gump because it’s been 35 mins and a dozen F-bombs later and I STILL don’t have them all out!
Please waist 10 minutes and just remove the wheels and inner fender wells and you can stand and work on all these issues at perfect height right in front of you.
IT IS A SUBURBAN, with the Tahoe package
MEDIC!!! I mean BLACK TAPE STAT! I wonder how many lives and fingers duck and black tape have saved over the years? Stupid mother £@€&!∆% exhaust bolts! Only messed with one set my whole life and I talked a buddy into helping me install headers and full Borla exhaust on my '17 Camaro SS. What shoulda been a Saturday afternoon and a few cold ones, ended up being an afternoon and nearly an entire Sunday! Exhaust parts especially nuts and bolts fight like their lives depend on it, man they just don't want to give up easy at all! Never again will I do exhaust anything… goes straight to a shop, period! Man it was worth it though, picked up several more ponies and it sounds so sweet it has to be down in the 30s before I drive around with my windows up😎🤘💪🔥
Love your shares Ray! Ya got a great personality and perfect disposition for this stuff and your a hilarious charismatic entertainer as well as a top notch wrencher. It's really great to see people that are good at this stuff actually become successful and have your channel build up as well as it has. I wish ya all the best Ray and I hope your channel continues to grow, you have certainly earned and deserve all the rewards and benefits! Keep on keepin on brother Ray, and keep that tape handy, never know when your gonna tear out a kidney, slice a jugular, or get a paper cut in your arm pit!😉☠️
You use to have P.B Blaster and you’d spray everything with it, what happened?
Whenever I use joints on a impact they snap lol then again every bolt on the undercarriage is rusted to death
heat is the universal solution
Reverse foolishness take your time not breaking the plug wires
Theres a reason ratchets are the size they are… making them much longer breaks bolts. Also spraying PB blaster on bolts 3 seconds before turning them doesnt do anything…
Tell me you arent revving that car in park…. youre a mechanic
When you heat stuff try cool it down quickly with water this helps a lot also you don't have the torch set right
It can't be stuck if it's liquid
Q: how many bolts will break/snap and be a total pain to remove?
A: all of them 🤣
after heating it up, put some penetrating oil. It will suck it into the stuck area
Heat, Heat and More Heat, if it's liquid it can't be stuck…………….
The only thing I hate worse than cylinder head bolts on a 5.3 is the same bolt on the ford 5.4
Hate broken exhaust bolts. The 5.7 Hemi is notorious for it. At least the Hemi is easy to get to.
A job like this is easy for a machinists. Evac the refrigerant. Drain the coolant.. pull the heads. Lap the valves at the same time or just replace the heads. High milage engine needs to be freshened up.
my strategy for exhaust bolts/nuts is if it doesn't look newish go straight for the heat
Lol!!!! Leaning tower of socket extensions !!!! Ahahahaha! I remember working on my own stuff years ago. I respect the hell out of mechanics after watching your videos. I told myself years ago no more working on my own stuff. I’ll pay to get it done. Actually lately I’ve been trading my stuff in right when warranty runs out. Lol!! Not now though. I’ll be keeping my latest ride for a long time. Lol. And honestly a guy can’t work on stuff nowadays anymore as stuff so technical
In situations like those Y-pipe bolts I would heat it red hot then quench it with a spray of water. Do it 3 times THEN take the nuts off or the bots out. It works over 90% of the time and saves the studs. Then if that doesn’t work or for some reason I couldn’t heat and quench it I would switch over to using a slimline nut splitter or in a few rare cases an old but unmarked offset slimline nut splitter. I have not had to change a stud that I broke in a very long time
That broken off flush bolt is in the worst possible position in that engine bay. I do not envy you that job. If you can get that done without taking the head off then that would be very well done.
However, at least it's an OHV so taking the head off is a lot less work than on an OHC engine. If it was me, I'd want to do that on a bench, not working near blind up against the bulkhead. Once the decision was made to replace the spark plugs, I'd have left them in and removed them after the manifold was removed as it wouldn't matter if they got broken, access would be easier and avoids crud falling into the cylinders.
That's the difference between me and a professional mechanic. If I was doing this job, I would be replacing the manifolds as well as most of the wiring loom and rubber lines due to my over judicious use of acetylene.
So what happened with the broken off bolts. Part 2 coming?
You know that before accountants designed cars…the design engineers, at least in the UK, used long brass nuts on good quality exhaust studs as OEM.
Brass doesn't rust.
Brass nuts unscrew easily.
Brass nuts are cheap compared with the time and effort it takes to deal with steel nuts.
Bring back big brass nuts for the studs.
I don't have a lot of experience with manifolds, etc. but what/why would those bolts break? Once installed, they just sit there, yes?
I had to remove a 10mm cap-nut from a variator on a 'CVT' transmission and could NOT move it and tried every trick in the book except using a 'cheater-bar' for fear it might damage the threads on the spindle
( That would mean an expensive part and tearing everything down to replace it if damaged )
________
I bought a hammer-drill at 'Wally' and still 'No joy in Mudville' so I thought on it for awhile and bent a dime w/pliers just enough so it would fit inside the socket, racked on the power and IT WORKED!
The cap-nut came off 'easy-peasy'
( I had tried transmission fluid/propane torch/spearmint oil/more heat soak/and nothing worked! )
A dime did the trick w/o having to look-for special sockets and buy a set
Why does the phone have an extension into the workshop? Seems to be nothing but an annoyance.
if you put never sieze, greese, & a vacuum grommett, on the threads, they dont rust & are easy to get off,,only drawback is, stinks driving the car..
I'm in largo…across the way from ya!
So whars the vid of extraction???????? LOL
Would panther piss (acetone and ATF) have helped any here?
Those Y pipe nuts have only had 18 years to get cozy with the studs. Another like added to the 10K already garnered. I enjoy your videos and your analyses as you work. One thought: it may be time to put the "click" terminology to bed. I hope you have a great weekend.
Dremel tool with cut off wheel. Cut enough to split the nut on both sides but not cut thread Five minutes. Been doing it for fifty years. Air chisel to pop the nut. Torch have used it takes to long. Used it to quickly remove heat froze bearing race in the past. Small tool for big jobs too.