This series gives me the nervous shakes and a twitch! This crappy design ended up eating a cam journal when the AFM lifter spun in the plastic lifter bucket. needless to say the DOD system got deleted and back to standard lifters.
Where on Earth would I be able to obtain that 1/4 sized 3/8 drive ratchet? Glad that injector rail came out as easy as it did! Had one come through my shop a while back and we ended up destroying the rail. Tried lady fingers, pry bars, multiple penetrating lubes, using compression to try to assist. Our local GM dealer said they normally end up destroying the rails on vehicles with higher miles because over time the tips of the injectors balloon and get stuck in the bore. Took me and one other mechanic both on a pry bar each before it gave up. Even tried the tool GM sells specifically for removing these rails! Great content man!
Well the vehicle IS a 2020 so us up here in the RUST BELT have a lot of luck with manifold bold in newer vehicles! It's the ones that have seen at least 5 winters before we start breaking the bolts not a 2 year old truck
In your first video of this vehicle you stated it had 17k miles. Why then is this vehicle not being repaired under GM warranty at a GM dealer? That is unless your repair shop is an "authorized GM dealer"??? If not then what is this going to cost the owner?
I'm just sat here racking my brains and you know I can't think of the European made car that's had a push rods and lifters that's been made in the last 40 years!
This is why my Chevy Tahoe I deactivated the cylinder deactivation for fuel economy it runs on V8 power all the time and I'm going to keep it that way forever
When a tool or part gets drop from engine compartment area, if it makes it to the ground it will be located in the exact center of the car's front foot print.
Although there are special tool pullers to remove the injector rails… The way Ray used tHE J-WoodBlock and J-PryBar is the preferred and acceptable method for dislodging said fuel rail. Before the dust shields were added the only way was to soak with Penetrator Oil and wait… Then repeat… And wait.
Hi there. I'm no mechanic but I do love watching your videos. I have a question for you on this DOD/AFM engine problem. I have an Avalanche that drives like a dream but it is getting up there in miles – (over 200k). I plan to keep this truck until the wheels fall off because the inside is perfect, no rips in leather, has drop down DVD system for kids or passengers in the back, etc. It does have some rust on it but that doesn't bother me any. Do you think it's too late in the game to do the full DOD/AFM delete? I couldn't do it myself so I would have to take it to a garage to have it done. Thanks in advance for your answer! Tom.
I have been watching your videos (which are awesome by the way) and wondering to myself "is this guy ever going to use an adjustable pry bar!!" I feel much better now! 🙂
look at the engine components of an early 2000s vehicle, and this one. Everything is much thinner and low quality. Yet, cost many thousands more. Same on GMC
I’m a little confused here, I don’t think we see push rods any more in the UK, are you removing the head to replace a collapsed hydraulic cam follower/lifter? I was thinking you could just replace the push rod, but thinking about it the rockers weren’t adjustable. Good job Ray.
Still in shock with the ease the manifold bolts came out, it was like watching the impossible become possible (canada eh)
In the last Days, the More Educated people become, the More Fools they become, someone said this and I think it applies to Vehicle Engineers…
Not seeing much oil at the top end?
This series gives me the nervous shakes and a twitch! This crappy design ended up eating a cam journal when the AFM lifter spun in the plastic lifter bucket. needless to say the DOD system got deleted and back to standard lifters.
With 17,000 on the clock. Return it back to the dealer
Where on Earth would I be able to obtain that 1/4 sized 3/8 drive ratchet? Glad that injector rail came out as easy as it did! Had one come through my shop a while back and we ended up destroying the rail. Tried lady fingers, pry bars, multiple penetrating lubes, using compression to try to assist. Our local GM dealer said they normally end up destroying the rails on vehicles with higher miles because over time the tips of the injectors balloon and get stuck in the bore. Took me and one other mechanic both on a pry bar each before it gave up. Even tried the tool GM sells specifically for removing these rails! Great content man!
This is a 2020 car. What's the milage? What caused the problems?
Did GM pay for this?
You guys up north are going to hate this. Yes… yes I did.
Iv worked on heavy equipment for 20 years and iv always used harbor freight tools and never had any problems with them thay have served me very well.
Take home message don't buy a gmc period already major problems unreliable vehicles
What’s your opinion on products like range programmer
The dreaded exhaust manifold bolts lol I'm from NY yes they suck and usually break although they would probably still be ok on a 2020 vehicle though .
Well the vehicle IS a 2020 so us up here in the RUST BELT have a lot of luck with manifold bold in newer vehicles! It's the ones that have seen at least 5 winters before we start breaking the bolts not a 2 year old truck
This is why I drive Japanese vehicles!!!!!!
In your first video of this vehicle you stated it had 17k miles. Why then is this vehicle not being repaired under GM warranty at a GM dealer? That is unless your repair shop is an "authorized GM dealer"??? If not then what is this going to cost the owner?
I'm just sat here racking my brains and you know I can't think of the European made car that's had a push rods and lifters that's been made in the last 40 years!
This is why my Chevy Tahoe I deactivated the cylinder deactivation for fuel economy it runs on V8 power all the time and I'm going to keep it that way forever
When a tool or part gets drop from engine compartment area, if it makes it to the ground it will be located in the exact center of the car's front foot print.
I bent all my pushrods like you said and I didn't get anywhere near 700 extra hprs. Maybe 100 at the most.
Fine job sir.
You guys up north are gonna hate this …. not broken, not broken, not broken … That's unpossible!!!!!!
Look at intake manifold before you buy one!
Although there are special tool pullers to remove the injector rails… The way Ray used tHE J-WoodBlock and J-PryBar is the preferred and acceptable method for dislodging said fuel rail. Before the dust shields were added the only way was to soak with Penetrator Oil and wait… Then repeat… And wait.
Hi there. I'm no mechanic but I do love watching your videos. I have a question for you on this DOD/AFM engine problem. I have an Avalanche that drives like a dream but it is getting up there in miles – (over 200k). I plan to keep this truck until the wheels fall off because the inside is perfect, no rips in leather, has drop down DVD system for kids or passengers in the back, etc. It does have some rust on it but that doesn't bother me any. Do you think it's too late in the game to do the full DOD/AFM delete? I couldn't do it myself so I would have to take it to a garage to have it done. Thanks in advance for your answer! Tom.
This guy has a Kyle Dunnigan sound sometimes.
Hahaha "you guys up north are going to hate this".
Just wondering how much does a job like that cost?? And how do you know if its worth fixing?
Hell no.
Pushrods.. how quaint
No wonder why so many new truck in dealer lot at Chevrolet
One of these days chevy will figure out how to make a pushrod engine
I don't understand why did people say Harbor freight tools is bad tools I had never had a problem with their tools
Stupid technology for the sake of saving $2. worth of fuel it trashed a $5000 engine. Wow
What would cause this?
You'd think that by now GM would know how to make lifters properly. WTF's wrong with them?
Tell your customer to purchase a Range Technologies OBD AFM disabler module.
I have been watching your videos (which are awesome by the way) and wondering to myself "is this guy ever going to use an adjustable pry bar!!" I feel much better now! 🙂
That has to be the cleanest used engine I’ve seen.
look at the engine components of an early 2000s vehicle, and this one. Everything is much thinner and low quality. Yet, cost many thousands more. Same on GMC
lol active fuel management lifter? Total junk.
Would this be warranty work? If so gm picks up the tab? If it's not warranty work what did it set the guy back?
I’m a little confused here, I don’t think we see push rods any more in the UK, are you removing the head to replace a collapsed hydraulic cam follower/lifter?
I was thinking you could just replace the push rod, but thinking about it the rockers weren’t adjustable.
Good job Ray.
Oh, I thought this was going to be an easy fix in part one, how wrong was I.
You can leave the fuel rail in the head to save time
I prefer the swivel head ratchet 1/4 body with 3/8 head.
Reverse click…
What is this voodoo that you have done with the exhaust manifold bolts? There must be no less than 3 that break!
I would be more impressed to see you get all 8 exhaust manifold bolts (either side) out of a 460 Ford EFI engine without breaking any off in the head.