Hello there everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back We return to Uh I don't know what to call this Part two or uh, part 2.5 or part three on this 1995 Ford F-150 uh with the 300 straight six and a manual transmission. The reason I say uh, part 2.5 or part three is because the first video on this truck ran actually a little long and I split that into two videos uh, the second one of which could be viewed at the end of the first video which I will leave links to those down in this video's description in case you uh, you did not get the chance to see those or would like to go back in time to take a look. Anyway, we left off on this truck in the middle of this drive shaft rebuild. We had one of these uh U-joints explode.

Nearly all the needle bearings came out of it and the shaft was flopping around everywhere I Found that after the fact because this truck actually came in for a clutch anyway. I Digress: we have one of the U-joints installed I'm waiting for the other one to arrive I haven't disassembled this yet I actually had to pillage Parts out of the second box uh in order to uh to complete the first one because I broke one of the needle bearings. So while that's on the way, we're gonna go ahead and swing back around over here to the undercarriage of this truck now. although I did not put this on the original estimate, uh I did notice that this rear crankshaft seal has a horrendous oil leak.

uh, coming out of it. So I'd rather not put a transmission and a clutch and a flywheel back on this truck without leaking rear main sealed. So we're going to pop that seal out real quick, replace it with a new one, and hopefully by that point, my uh, my replacement U-joint will have arrived. We can go back to that drive shaft, then we can get the flywheel back on.

We can change out that uh, that pilot bearing right there, get the clutch pack on, and then get this transmission back inside the truck. So stay tuned because this is gonna be a very good video opening. Z Hood First thing, it's just loaded with it. It's a circular cheetah.

All right. So right here, that's engine block area right around there. right inside of that and outside of these this, uh, crankshaft. this area is the crankshaft seal.

Now this one. It's got rubber and metal. So what I need to do here is get behind this old seal and pluck the thing out, line up this new one and then drive it in. I'll probably use a soft plastic or a rubber dead blow.

Mallet I'm going to start with a small tool and we'll escalate violence if necessary to get this out. But I think it's just going to slide right on out of there. Oh yeah, look at that. she's coming right out.

I Was afraid I was gonna have to like Ram uh RAM a hole into it and then pry it out, but this one seems to be coming out no problem. It's which is cool. There we go. Come on out of there there.

She is okay coming in with some blue towel action. Let's wipe all the dirt and grime and whatnot away from the affected area crankshaft and then uh, that new seal driven on. Go in there, clean off the oil on this crank to make sure that the crankshaft itself isn't scored up. Results in a failed seal.

Okay, I've got the new seal coming in. If you look closely right here, we can see that I've applied a a light film of grease on the inside diameter. It's not critical. We can probably do this without, but it, uh, it couldn't hurt so we're gonna toss some on there.

It's important to make sure that they interlit in. this seal does not fold outward as we get the seal slid over the crankshaft because then the spring on the inside will come out and it won't seal at all and it'll leak everywhere. That'd be bad. I'm just gonna work around the edge of this thing with my rubber mallet, slowly work it in, driving it into that bar working around.

Yes, it's a happy seal. Oh sorry. I was having a Bob Ross kind of moment there. Maybe there's a happy tree? evergreen tree.

He lives right there so we can see here that it's not driven in all the way. But the more I hit it, the more I'm just tapping onto the crankshaft and it's uh, it's interfering with the impact. So what I'm going to do is we're going to take the old seal and line it up over the new one and then use that contact the new seal. Here we go.

How are we looking a little more at the top? Foreign that looks good to my eye says I very nice. Wipe off all of our dirt and that is one successfully replaced. We remain crankshaft seal all righty. Let's climb on out of here for a minute and we're gonna head over to the cart, open up the uh, the clutch kit and we need to get the pilot bearing out of the clutch kit here.

so we've got that's our Splind aligner. Here's our new clutch basket. We can compare that to the old one. That's no good.

This one's good. And here is our new friction disc. Again, we'll compare that to the old one and it's not the right size. This one is larger than this one.

Wrong parts. We have the wrong parts. Oh no. All right, let's close this back up.

and I gotta order another clutch kit. Yay! Okay I have her clutch. Hopefully that thing gets here in a timely manner. In the meantime, I'm gonna dig out a slide hammer because I'm gonna use this guy and this guy right here to uh, extract that pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft.

I mean I could use grease and bread in a socket and a hammer. but I don't have any bread. so we're going to use a slide hammer that little hook device there. If it doesn't work, then I'll think of something else.

But this has proved to be a decent method and I've used it before in the past. Okay, so slight alteration of the idea I had to put this apparatus on the Uh. the hook that was on that other device did not fit inside of that pilot bearing. So I've got this one.

It's not exactly for this. This is actually like a two jaw or a three job puller depending on the adapter. But I think this configuration will work. This is why you don't throw away broken tools because they can be reused for other things.

Slide hammering, pilot bearings. come on either you come on, it's kind of coming out. Some of it came out there. We go.

there's our bearing, but wait, there's more you see. If we take a look at the replacement pilot, we can see we've only managed to remove the inside section of this bearing. So I'm going to go back in there and pull the rest of this uh, fairing housing out trying again. we'll get ourselves hooked under.

it can work. Okay, next level Escalation: Let's try the hammer on it sideways method and get under it with a pry bar. Okay, it's brittle so I can break that thing away, it will come out ping, piece of slide off. That's why it broke with the puller.

A piece on the inside chipped out of it. It's annoying I saw you move. Seriously, it's not okay. Okay, let's go back to the first puller that uh I thought I was gonna use that one fits in there pretty nicely.

Uh, that's uh, no, no, no negative. Get in there. come on fist but there's almost no lip to uh, get a hold of this thing again. Negative.

Breaking the inside of that not coming out? Who knew. Okay, Okay, so this is getting stupid and I can't believe I've got to do it. But I got the uh I got the welder back out. So uh, what I need to do here is what I'm thinking is I'll put a weld around the outside diameter of this that way I've got something to hook the hook the puller to and then I can try one more time to, uh, yank that thing out I think I'll start with just a bead right here like a half moon guy in and then rotate it behind that bead and then use that to pluck it out because the other methods are not working uh properly at this time.

Now here's another thing to consider: I'm welding on I guess kind of the crankshaft right? So I don't want to connect my ground to the block because that means the electricity is going to have to pass uh, through the block, through the bearings and then into the crankshaft. and that can cause for a bad weld. It can also cause uh, like microscopic weld spots or burn spots on the actual bearing material. uh, possibly damaging the bearings and rooting the engine.

So I'm not going to do that either. So what I will do is uh, put one of these bolts in to connect my ground cable. So that way the ground or the path electricity is going to go from here to here instead of here into the crank, through the bearings, through the block, and then out to here. Does that make sense? it to me I must say I've never welded a throwout bearing out before, so this is going to be a first engaging safety.

Squints Begin welding now. Oh, one other thing. the weld on this is also going to encourage that, uh, that bearing race to shrink and that'll help it come out of the crank. So we're doing uh, two things with this one operation.

Fire too much heat. There we go a half. now. What we can do? Take this little guy and get it back inside of that bearing race.

Get in there, turn it sideways like so, and then pull against the weld. This better work. I Will be displeased I've got the slide hammer threading back onto the attachment there. We'll give this a couple.

Yanks Look at that right out. No problem. Beautiful. I Love the welder.

Okay, let's get this thing out of here and we're gonna head over to the uh oil drain and we're going to grab that backing plate that had all that sludge built onto it and scrape that off and clean it up real quick. We'll prep that for installation I Need that? We'll prep the plate and get the flywheel installed and then hopefully our clutch will arrive by then. So let us enter. Super high speed lightning Fast motion.

We'll clean this off real fast, make it nice and shiny, and then get this thing back on the truck. Okay looking good, real quick. Let's uh, just finalize shiny. We're at all the microscopic particles here.

This thing looking good. Loud trolling noises here. who? I'm running out? Yeah, this thing's good. All right.

Let's get our plate back over to the engine block. We'll get that set up on the dowel rods and then we can get that new flywheel bolted on the flywheel is correct, but the clutch is not nasty. Okey-dokes Let's go ahead and head back over to the truck. We'll get the plate on and then we can unbox the flywheel and get that guy installed as well.

Thing only goes on one way and I believe we've got our padding here and there's our witness marks for our starter so it's going to go on pointed in this direction like so oh my dowel pin stayed in the transmission. see that I want those to stay uh up here on the engine so we need to knock those out and then put them up on the engine side so that's left side there. second hold down and that oh okay, let me get out of. uh, grab a punch real quick and a hammer and we're going to knock these dowels out of this trans bell housing and put them back in the motor.

and I Gotta tell you, this four back here is fighting me every step of the way. I Had to weld a bolt on um, air hammer or regular Hammer what do I choose the hammer trying to weld up, not on to take the bolt off I had to weld the pilot bearing race to get that thing out. Uh yeah, this thing's uh, it's putting a hurting on me, that's for sure. that's my impact.

pneumatic, linear impacts hey Troy Can I borrow that air hose for a moment please? I need to? Uh, you gotta do something. Oh what? that's not okay. Okay, well this is interesting. There's no there's no pass-through right here to get to this dowel pin.

so I'm just going to send it with a pointier chisel. see if I can just knock this guy out. So if it flies out, watch it because I'm gonna need this. There it goes.

I see it by the hose. All right. come around to this other side. there's one more we gotta we gotta punch out of there.

Oh, this one's easy. That one's real easy here. I'll hold that one there no problem. Kind of easy.

Thank you sir here. let me get that one back. These are super important. Cannot put Transmissions back without these guys.

They will not. Oh no, and they will not align. There you go. It will not align and they will destroy themselves if you can manage to get the thing, uh, put together without the pins.

So anyway, slide that in its little hole right there. type it in with the hammer. Let's go ahead. and uh, same thing over here on that other side.

Get that guy set up, tap it in, or drop it out. Oh no. redo. Okay, both alignment pins are now in.

Now we can get our, uh, our little plate hung up. Slip that in there through the hole, through it all on that side. Good to go. Let's go ahead and get, uh, get our flywheel installed.

Okay, now something has been bugging me and we're going to take a look at that real quick before we get this, uh, new flywheel installed. So we've got our new one. Let's flip it over here. Whoa.

We're about to lose some starters. We're hanging off the edge there. Let's flip this over. So we're looking at the smooth side on both units here and I've noticed and I've already checked for the bolt patterns to be identical.

The outside diameter is identical, so this is 11 or so inches. This is 11 or so inches. But one thing that's bugging me is I Believe that. Uh, two flywheels have a different teeth count.

Okay here, let's try to turn these so we can get a a better view on what I'm talking about here. So we'll get these guys lined up. Come here and if we look real close, we'll start right here at this tooth right there. You know it's getting closer start at this tooth.

By the time we make it to the third tooth, we're starting to come out of line. So we have larger teeth on the new flex plate than we do the old flex plate. Additionally, it didn't really make much sense to me how this thing came in with the starter grinding against the flex plate teeth. You see that right there now the starter that I ordered to replace it with.

We have something a little bit different going on here. Spacing is different. you see the gear, how it sticks out on this one and it's recessed on this one. So one of these parts that's on this car is the wrong part.

but I'm fairly certain that with this flywheel made it up to this, spin it around to this starter. We have the appropriate tooth count to make for a good alignment. Let's see if I can't get a get this set up and let you guys take a look in there. It's a little dark.

we can see that's a really good gear mesh going on in there. I Think that somehow some way some of these parts were incorrect. I Don't know if these are the right parts and these ones are wrong or if these are the right parts and this starter is wrong. So what I'm going to do is proceed as planned.

We're going to assume this is the correct flywheel I'm going to get this guy bolted on and then we're going to mock that starter up in the front of it to uh to see if they mesh and we're going to check the clearance on that nose cone and uh and the gears as well. So if it doesn't fit, it's not going to fit. but I think I think this thing came in with the wrong parts installed. so let's set this down.

We'll get prepped up on our engine there and get this stuff flywheel bolted back on and we can. uh, we can get that thing pressed in even with the flywheel in place here. This truck on the side personal note: causing me serious emotional distress literally taking twice as long as I think it should have just trying to get these bolt holes lined up. Make sure that they all, uh, all line up appropriately because if they don't light up, that'll tell me which parts the right one and which one's the wrong one.

It'll tell me fast dreadlock these before I tighten them. but I want to make sure they all thread here. We go. Okay, these all appear to line up no problem.

so let's get some thread lock on them and uh, we'll get these guys tightened down. Come here. Thread lock, What are you doing? Okay, let's get these guys started, threaded thread, locked, bolted down and then we'll go around to the front here and see, uh, see about that starter fitment. Like I said I Can mock it up without the transmission being there.

is what we need to do Plus without the transmission being there I Can visually inspect it and make sure that we actually do have the right parts here. but I know the clutch that we got was wrong because it's for a 10 inch flywheel and this thing had an 11 inch. I Failed to mention it earlier that although the nose cones are different, the tooth count and the gear size on both starters are identical. Based on that, I'm inclined to believe that this truck actually came in with the incorrect flywheel.

so we know what's right. We know what's wrong. One more. there we go.

Pretty clean. Encore: Foreign. This definitely has to be nice and shiny with no debris on it. You cannot have contaminants.

Yeah, you guys are waiting for that one too. You can't have contaminants on the friction surface. Like I said, it's just like a brake rotor and any contaminants are going to uh embed themselves into the friction material on the clutch face and it'll cause a irregular wear and vibrations and noises and it'll Shake Just not okay. so we don't want to do that.

There we go. Okay, let's go fetch the starter and mock the thing up and see how it's gonna fit. Okay, so the starter is uh, roughly in position there. It's just kind of hanging through its hole and we can see that the gear teeth on that starter are already engaging the teeth on the flywheel.

So this is not the correct starter for this application. This is the wrong starter. So although the teeth count was the same, there's no way that's going to work because while the engine's running, it would be constantly turning the teeth on the starter. So right here we have the starter motor that does not fit this flywheel.

So I'm gonna re-box this one, send this thing back, and hopefully I can get another one, uh, in a timely manner. If not, we can go back to that U-joint over there on the drive shaft. Uh, until the uh, the starter motor unit arrives. See, this isn't all peaches and cream and easy money.

Sometimes this is a real serious headache. Alrighty, so seeing as how we are on a Perpetual Parts hold with this car and we're piecemealing this thing together, the only thing I can do at this point is put this guy around and uh, we're gonna move on and we're going to re-u-joint this back section of this drive shaft. So I'm going to move pretty quickly through this one since uh again. I just uh, just did the front U-joint in uh in the first video the second half of the first video.

So I'm gonna try to just maneuver through this, uh, quickly. my uh, other components are on the way. It's gonna be the clutch and the starter. I Ordered another starter again.

so that stuff's on the way. So we're uh, we're playing the game of constantly trying to race the parts delivery. Ideally, we want to have one component all set up and finished as the parts arrive. Okay, so here's the deal on the front.

U-joint We took our time disassembling with pullers and whatnot. I'm gonna go full nuclear on this one and we're just going to, uh, just shred this thing as quickly as possible. So we're just going to run this guy out with uh, Pneumatics. All right.

Show the way I think I'm gonna have to do this one is I don't want to hit on the drive shaft or on the Yoke I want to push on the uh the usual itself. So let's set this guy up in the vise right here and hang on to it that nice tight there now I can run it out. Go Go go come on. turn it up.

turn it up again. Need more impact here. Let's switch the gun. Oh wait wait wait we're out of Air Hang On The Compressor's off.

you know. funny thing, you can't run air tools without any air compressor's fired up. and I switch this out to the bigger gun. Resume.

There we go. Good, You know some. let me scooch this over I was running out of space for the shaft to clear. continuing.

All right. So now what we've achieved here is this first set of U-joint Cups have been removed. kind of I need to, uh, wiggle this guy out there. we go wheel bearings then I think it's not going to come out willingly.

Okay, we have to drive it the other direction now and push this cup back through. So let's reset this up in the Vise. One more time there we go and we'll drive it through the other way. Look, this one fell apart while we were at it.

It was a twofer foreign. There we go. now. squeeze this guy out there.

we go. Come on, come out. gotta set that down this one. We just got to drive it out.

The rest of the way. That's going to knock out that. uh Second Cup Booyah that shows violence. Very good.

Let's clean up these inside diameters real quick. Little flap wheel on a drill. so I was uh I Was reading through some of the comments that had occurred when I did that first U-joint on the other side in the last video and somebody said Erica would cringe at uh at your U-joint replacement method and uh, maybe he would. Maybe he wouldn't But here's the thing.

There's not many people that will even attempt to replace U-joints unless they work in a machine shop or they rebuild the things. And additionally, if it works, it works. and if it's right, it's right. And if it's not right, or you got to improvise and it doesn't work out, then uh, that's that's the bridge that's got to be crossed and that's a risk that I guess you take when you take on the job.

you know. Like I said, most folks would not even attempt to do this job because it is kind of high risk. You can break things, you can damage things, and sometimes your tools that you need are they're not there. That also happens so cringy or not.

I Still got it done, so rinse this off. Dust and dirt and rust and whatnot in there. This one's a little dirtier than the other side was it's actually a lot dirtier. Okay, now let's get our uh, our U-joint unboxed here.

Yeah, this one has the circlips and well, that one's not greasable. Look at that. Do Not come with a grease fitting. Okay, Oh well.

Okay, so let's take our universal joint and I'm gonna pull all of the Caps away, set these guys aside, and then we'll start to, uh, get this thing set up. Oh, see that little Sim came out with it? That has to stay okay. GoPro died when I wasn't looking. but I've got one set of caps installed.

Let's get our Clips in and then we can get this thing centered up. We'll use the same method as before: hit it with a hammer. It works Good, good, good, good. All right.

Two cups, two clips not binding. this one's good to go. Let's go ahead and get the yolk on next. The drive shaft repair will be complete.

So again, here's the x that we etched. There's the other X right there that's referencing the proper orientation of these components. So let's go ahead. check that guy that looks good.

Hang on a little. Uh, little washers moved a little bit. Hang on. Let me put that back.

Nope. came out. thank you. Push that down all the way.

There we go. Okay, I'm doing this. Uh, very carefully. Very very carefully.

Indeedably so we're pushing that cup into the yoke right there. That's what we want to do. and push it in the rest of the way. That way we can get the clip in, we just have to push in the uh, the opposing side and we're good here.

Went a little too far I think nope, we're good. Uh, that one definitely went a little too far, but that's also okay because we can just push it back. Okay. clip coming in, snap into place there.

Rude. We'll rotate this guy around. Oh, it fell off and got an air spinner around here. One last cup coming in.

Careful. Ray Don't do this wrong. There we go. Nice.

Let's back it out. Finish the Press right there. mole still misaligned more. Again, There we go.

Good good. and then one more clip. Steal the deal and we'll check and make sure it's free and loose and it articulates as designed. Okay, that's a little tight, not much.

It all actually felt really good, but we're gonna give it a little send. Excellent! U-joint Repair Complete two New Year joints installed that one and that one. We're good to go and I think delivery guys came while we were focused on that. Look what we got.

We've got a new clutch set and a new starter. I Uh, I Found the one. Come here. Ah, there we go.

I Found the one that has the proper clearance where the gear is flush with the face if you recall. that last one had a gear that was sticking out about an inch or so and that was no good. So that we've gathered so far, the flywheel that was on this truck is the incorrect flywheel. So that means that the starter that that truck had was the correct starter, but it was on a flywheel that had too many teeth.

There are two different clutch packages for this truck. There's a uh, a heavy duty and a light duty. It depends on the Gbwr. These are the Heavy Duty sets and I think that what they had installed was for the light duty.

Regardless, I'm pretty sure that what I've got here is the correct stuff. That's uh, that was correct, but it's damaged from the grinding action, so we're getting rid of that and the new clutch pack is over there in the box. So let's unbox that thing, compare it, then we'll get it installed, and they get this trans back in now. Okay, Power Torque such package? That's what we're talking about.

Okay, what's the status? It must be the tool for the valve on the slave cylinder. Maybe maybe that's what it is. We have our disc. Here's our throw out.

Here's our basket. All right. let's go ahead and get this stuff. Uh, unwrapped and installed dopes.

We are back down below. We have our replacement pilot bearing that came out of Kit in hand. See, it's got that little Ridge on the top of it. This guy is going to go centered into the crankshaft and we're just going to tap it in with the hammer here.

Get in there. Oh, don't drop it. Hang on. That might know as it recesses, there's not much room to to hit the thing.

Plus I don't want to break it. So I'm going to use the old pilot bearing housing Drive in the new one, there we go and I can better steer and drive. For example, if it goes off center, I can just kind of tap one side, straighten it back out, keep it moving without smashing the flanges. The trick to not smashing your fingers is you don't think about your fingers.

keep your eye on the target. Think about hitting your fingers. You will and it should stop when it's done. Gravy, Drop that all right now.

I'm running out of place for my fingers. so I'm going to hold on to this with a Uh with some needle nose pliers. give us some really good hard. finalized Taps Like that and now I can definitely not worry about hitting my fingers.

plus there's just no space for them. Send it. God You're hitting the crankshaft. You're ruin it.

It's cast iron. There we go. Good. Next, we're gonna need to use the alignment tool that comes with the clutch.

This thing has a uh, a little pin on it. That thing fits right inside of those pilot bearings and it is then splined to match the exact spline pattern that can be found on the input shaft for the transmission. What we do is, we're going to go ahead and take our clutch pack. Notice it's labeled flywheel side and there might be a label on this side.

No, nothing here. So we have flywheel side right there. so that's the side that touches the flywheel. Going to run our alignment tool through the splines on that, and then insert the Peg Side into the pilot bearing.

So that's roughly going to align this uh, this clutch pack with the pilot bearing and with the crankshaft. Now see how it kind of comes out and leans sideways. It's not going to be a perfect alignment. We have to do that by uh, by Feeling by hand.

Once we get the basket in place, stay okay coming in with our clutch basket. next I've cleaned off the friction surface. We're gonna pick this guy up, hold it over top of our flywheel, and I need to get a couple bolts in it to, uh, keep it stable. We cannot tighten it down just yet.

We still have to Center the friction plate in between the two. Remember, see how it moves around a little bit? We've got to get that thing centered up properly. But first, I need to. Uh, get the bolts on this thing so it doesn't fall out and kill me.

Or break a toe. Or a knee. Or leg. Or a leg.

and a knee. Okay, that's two of our bolts. Stay Okay, All right. Four more bolts coming into position.

These guys started. Now we cannot put any pressure on the Springs with this clutch plate just yet. Okay, if there's pressure on it, we won't be able to move the pack inside and uh, it will not be aligned properly. So the basket's now suspended from its bolts off of the flywheel and we can see down in the hole that the friction material is still moving around.

So what I want to do is we're going to push in on the aligner and wiggle it until it feels flat, pretty much flat against the pilot bearing. Now, start to apply some torque. As soon as it makes contact, it's going to lock in that, uh, that friction plate in there, achieving proper alignment and then allowing us to go around and torque the rest of the bolts on the basket so we're going to go around just barely making contact in a star pattern. Do you see how when it gets tight, these little uh, the Springs are going to start to compress? Watch right here.

See you moving in. Watch right here. as this tightens down, it's gonna Flex and it's actually applying pressure to the clutch plate, sandwiching it in between the basket and the flywheel. Watch this one.

See that that one. We're gonna walk them around this one next, that one over there next. They're all bottomed out mostly and now to pull our alignment dowel out, this is ready to go. ready to accept the transmission.

Okay, let's go ahead and wheel this thing over. We need to clean the face the face off because there's some dirt and whatnot in here. We'll scrape out some of this nasty spray off this throw out bearing which has been replaced once before and that looks good. We're not going to change that because again, we're trying to keep some cost out on this.

So let's wipe this thing down and get this thing mated back up and installed on the back of the engine. All right. Okie Dokes This thing is cleaned out sufficiently for, uh, for what it is, we're not going to make it spotless because it's just going to fill up full of uh, clutch material again. But it is time now to roll this guy over and get it installed on the engine.

What we're going to do is, we're going to raise it up. Roll It Forward Raise it up some more, roll it forward until the the shifter clears the hole in the bottom of the floor pan and we can get those pegs aligned. We can get this unit bolted in Cross membered. We'll get the starter back on it.

We're gonna fire this thing up. Moving out, up, pumping Away Pump Pump It Up Almost there. we're getting close to the very close. Okay, let's roll it Forward Some Here we go up a little more, forward, a little more, up, a little more, you get the picture.

Okay, let's take a look up into the bell housing and we can see how that, uh, that shaft starting to come into alignment with the pilot bearing going through the clutch pack. So we're going to raise this up some and just getting that aligned as much as we can we can. We can compare that alignment right there with uh, our bolt holes up here and with our dowel pins. and once that all appears to be aligned, then we can go ahead and push this thing forward some more and get it mated to the engine.

so we need to go to the right. Okay, here you go up a little bit, there we go, and then forward a little bit and start to close that. Gap Are you going in right there? That's what we want to see. Now take a look at our dowel pin alignment that's getting pretty close.

Let's go up a little more, right there, and then forward again a little bit more. There we go, and we're getting somewhere. So one other thing I'd like to point out real quick. you can see how the fingers on that basket are touching the face of the throw out bearing right there.

So that tells me that the input shaft on the trans is splined into the clutch pack and it's nearly ready to be seated. The only thing that we're uh, short on is the alignment of our dowel pins. Uh, right up there. we're pretty close.

we're not quite yet. Okay, so I've skipped us ahead ever so slightly. We have all six of the bolts installed and now this unit is mated with the engine. Let's go ahead and plug in the hydraulic line for the slave cylinder.

Snap that guy in there we go that is installed clipped into position. Now now let's go ahead. we'll get our little inspection cover piece of rubber put back on. We can disconnect our uh, our little strap right here.

Let's get rid of this guy. Don't need you anymore. We still need the Jack here to hold the weight until we put the cross member in which we will do momentarily to get some of this stuff cleaned up here. Go ahead, pull our 2x4 out that kept the engine from sagging back.

Put that thing aside, we can back up next and get fret to get that cross member back in position. All right, cross member is coming in next. Maneuver this unit into its home. Uh.

I Kind of forgot how it came out. I Knew we had to adjust a little bunch of moving around. I think I Need to pick this trans up a little bit higher. Need more clearance? Yeah, something like that.

There we go. That's how that's gonna go. Okay now. I Can let this guy back down.

Those holes are lined up there right there. Okay, okay. we've got one bolt coming in to cross member to the frame rail. Get that guy lined up.

Slide that guy through right there. put our nut on it like So bracket coming in. Sliding that over the two existing bolts that are sticking out of the top of the frame there. These bolts have two big nuts those guys on now.

I Got two more bolts that are going to go through onto the cross member itself. All right nuts. and that one gravity. I'm a nuts.

Ah squared. Got it again. Okay, so all five of those are in Let's uh, move over and pivot to the right. We'll get that last bracket plus the other five bolts installed.

Okay, hard part. First, we'll get the uh I don't remember these two went in pointed up. If they went in. point it down.

I think I'm gonna put them in. point it down seems to. uh, that's what seems to be fitting. no pun intended.

Ah, did it be fitting because it doesn't fit? That was a terrible dad joke. Oh, that one's not one to go in. Looks like the frames are kind of pushed in a little bit interesting. That's fine.

I'll make the threads do the work so I don't have to watch this. See it coming through. it'll all work itself out in a moment. Fear not.

All right, that one's on good. Let's get the bracket in there next. Okay, so if I recall this thing, head to somehow, someway get maneuvered and squeezed in there. So I need to Jack the trans up one more time.

a little bit higher. Okay, transmission has been raised all the way up now. I Think squeeze this guy in. Yepper let's get.

uh, those top bolts through the holes. Wiggle those guys through just like that. Two Nuts Going on the upper bolts, there's one. Uh.

Second One reach around on the back side here. get that one started. Come on now. get on there.

There we go. All right. Those guys are on two more bolts right here, so we're good to apply some pork. These are the ones that I had to pry bar the exhaust.

but I've got this jacked up a little higher so they're fitting nicely. And of course the two nuts. One of those nuts is rustier than the other. Oh, you know why is why this nut goes over here.

This knot goes over here. There we go. okay. Flip the trans back down onto the bracket.

it's misaligned. That's fine. I'll pull it down all the way down. All set.

All right. Coming in with some 18s and some 15s. let's get all this stuff tightened up, tighten down, whatever, and do this, and reduce commentary mode just to save some time. Loud, Stinky.

loud and stinky. That was cool. All right. Now up into that hole back there, we're coming in with the wrench on the top side and we'll hit that with the gun.

90 degree gun. We need that one. Let's try this one. Can't do it with the swivel.

Forgot how I took this all apart earlier. Like which tool configuration wins into which positions and whatever. Okay, that's all we're gonna get until I Get that wrench up there. Sometimes you can tighten the nut down on a bolt and it'll create enough friction where it'll Auto tighten itself.

Click Okay, this whole side is tight. Let's go on over. get the driver's side. Continuing: Rapid Bolts Installation: Foreign.

You guys see that nut? jump off and run away. Came from over there. no worries. found it.

Let's go ahead and put it back. way back in there. Okay, now we need to make make these guys tight. These are the ones that I needed the universal with I Remember now.

All right, let's get in there and get these guys tightened down. It's almost starter and drive shaft time. Come on now. Hook up my wrench.

Can't get that headlined up here. Seriously. Oh, come on. Seriously, what is this? Contrary to my stated goals here, bolt pushed up a little farther and it was touching the bottom of the body.

That's what happened I Couldn't get the wrench on it. Ah, that one's tight. Good. Same thing on that other bolt in the back that you guys probably can't see I can't even get uh, my thing on that one I'm just gonna go in.

We're gonna go in deep black and send it, see what happens. Maybe it'll tighten itself up in there I Need more extension? more longer wobbly bits. that's a half inch. Those are the tooth breaking wobbles.

you know. Don't mess around with the big ones. Fly off and itch in the face. Kill you.

Come on. Randy Get on there Yeah buddy. All right. Cross member tight.

Let's back it up some. Get our drive shaft in, they'll move back to the front, get the starter in, then we go up in the cabin, get the shipper knob installed. Then we can stock into the engine from the wires. Connect the wires, plug in the wires.

that one goes up here. Speed sensor connector leakage better. Okay rebuilt drive shaft coming in. There's a there's no master spline on this so we just got to line it up, stick it in the hole there, and then out back.

we can go ahead and get it bolted to the differential. Let's go ahead and wipe off this uh bit of Grease seal or a mating surface here. We're not going to get all of it off and so it's built up for us, but we got to get it off in the spots where the flange is going to meet the meet the other flange. That way it's not running sideways and why not? So let's get this thing down in position here.

Start the bolts. Now the transmission is in neutral and that's going to allow me to rotate this drive shaft so that we can get these bolts lined up hot. One today. Muy Caliente for mucho Mucho Caliente! Grande There you go.

Uh, no habla. Espanol Okay, they're all in. Let's give it some uh Driveline socket impact to do these 180 degrees from each other on the first two, then 90 and another 180. Tight.

Beautiful. Good to go. Okay, let's move up to the front of the engine next and we can grab off that starter motor and get that guidance guy installed. See, we've got the wires hanging down here.

We've got a there's a ground. There's our hot wire from the battery and that's the uh. the signal wire from the ignition. The ignition switch.

Okay, not gonna be much to look at up here for the starter install. We've got the unit coming in. It's a two bolt starter. uh, plus a wire and uh, and another wire and then one more wire after that wire and that is all.

So again, we're moving through this uh, at lightning speed for fast motion. kind of. So next bolt comes up at the top where you guys can't see it. Heck I can't even see it.

How did Troy get this out of here? Oh my gosh see I see the bolt right there. But I don't see a place where my phalanges to fit? How about right there There we go? That's good. Been with the extendo socket on a swivel and we can get these things tightened out. Think now we're good.

Begin tightening. Now there we go. All right. Well, the threads are started.

Show Let's just come on in with the electron ratchet, set the top bolt in starter, clicking, then one on the bottom there. Come here. Good to go. All right here.

Let me go ahead and get these. Uh, all these wires reconnected real fast and then we can get this thing up back on the ground and restart the engine. I'm excited. All right.

that's our signal wire. Power wire is already on, ground wire is now on, starter is on. That's as good. I Still owe uh this little plate two bolts.

one of them I welded off and one of them I Just got to figure out what's going to fit in there. So let me get those guys installed and we'll get this back on the ground in the home stretch. Throw our shifter back together real quick. Like all right back in the cabin.

let's get back in this uh, familiar position that we left ourselves off in. Okay, let's go ahead and get this shift linkage pre-installed here for shift a lever. Rather, we've got that uh, little goofy bolt thing that I had dropped the other day. Now this is gonna go in like so and you see how it's kind of cammed like the it's off center from the center of that uh that Cam that smooth part there that's going to keep this from rotating so we can tighten it down with the uh, the nut that came came on it show.

We just need to pass this guy through the hole, get it lined up however it goes, and then we'll use the nut to uh to draw the thing through. Here we go. Got that thing bolted in gear positions are all there. It shifts.

Shifter's good, all right. Okay, got some brake fluid here I think it's dot for Judo Open Okay, let's go ahead and get this fluid uh, refilled on our clutch master. Oh, why aren't you? uh, we're coming open there on clickage there I Needed to apply the appropriate amount of torque. Okay, there's still some fluid in it, but we're gonna add some more.

Let's use the little tool that they gave us to open the bleeder valve I Wonder if it's any good or not and crawl under and get a hold of. there's a there it is. See that little uh little nipple thing right up there that's our our beater eight mil. This thing's not gonna fit.

That's a stupid tool. Look at that, it's not. That's not gonna work. Get out of here climbing back in I I Have the appropriate uh wrench with me now so we can crack this uh, bleeder.

Line open and uh, hopefully it'll just gravity bleed itself right out. We don't have to do anything. Some of these can be hard, but some of them are real easy if you open it up and let it ride. I'm hoping this is a option option.

b Come on there we go. Got it all right now. We got fluid flow. look some bubbles coming out.

let's go up top, check the uh, wrong, check the fluid level and I'll just keep adding to it as it drains down. Yeah, it's going very slowly. More fill it all the way up and let it drain all the way down. All right.

Going back in, we got some decent drip action going on here. So I'm gonna speculate that all the air is uh has come out. Let's go hit the pedal and confirm it's tight. Okay, so I've spent about 20 minutes pumping this clutch and getting it bled.

So I think we're good. battery terminals aren't connected. Let's get back in the cabin, restart this beast and uh, make sure that the clutch disengages and engages uh when commanded by the paddle. So we got we got decent pedal.

Let's go ahead. Clutch in Trans in neutral restarting. Huh? It is alive. Take a look out back, you see our uh, our wheel right over there.

That's the driver's side rear. Put it in first gear. We're in here letting off the plug. There we go back and park.

Let's go second or neutral second gear. All right. It is engaging and disengaging as Design This is good to go. Fantastic! All right guys.

Powering this thing down uh I actually have to uh close this one out like right now immediately and I need to get out of here. Uh. wife unit was driving home and she left around the corner and she said her van shut off while driving and it's no longer functioning so she is stranded and I have to have to go and save the day. So uh, that being said, like I said, gotta close this knot right now.

This truck is good to go. It's put back together, it needs to be cleaned up a little bit from what I touched. Uh, we will. uh, we'll remove the the drippings from the brake fluid, a couple other knick-knacky items, and then uh, we're getting this thing out of the building.

A half hour worth of work. Really nothing more in the line of content. So that means said like, thank you guys for watching this video. As always, hope you enjoyed this video.

If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comments section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourself a great day! See you guys later! Good story in the video. Any clutch in the drive shaft in the starter and flywheel in a transmission in a day locked, Engaged The door locks, The door locks.