In this video we check out a noise coming from the rear end of this Kia Sportage. Kia has a service TSB regarding this noise and they claim it is unrepairable and the whole $1450.00 viscous coupler unit must be replaced!! HA! This sounds like a challenge 🙂
Seal: 19-00-044-027
Bearing: KBC 6008Z
Copy of TSB: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=C7BE1B571FE20297!1394&authkey=!ADEQY5rImJZqi3w&ithint=file%2cpdf
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
Seal: 19-00-044-027
Bearing: KBC 6008Z
Copy of TSB: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=C7BE1B571FE20297!1394&authkey=!ADEQY5rImJZqi3w&ithint=file%2cpdf
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
I had an old Land Rover Freelander and the 4WD went. I was told to repair was more expensive than the Car and they could just make it 2WD and leave it. Went for 2WD. Would have liked you around back then my side of the pond Mr O. But at least they gave me life for a few more years.
anyone can replace parts but it takes a "Mechanic" to repair it.
it's help me refurbish gas tank, I was worried how remove rear differential
Back in the mid eighties I replaced the wheel bearing on mid seventies Subaru and the Subaru dealer wanted $70 for the bearing I found it at a bearing shop for $2.50, the exact same bearing.
Eric:again I say well done God Bless you!!!!!!
a kit with bearing+sealant…
who is the beer assistant? 🍺🤰
Yes when you use a ratchet as a hammer they sometimes break…
Ill be my life savings any other mechanic willing to charter into unknown territory to save you thousands in repairs.
I'll check in 60 years!
God that Kroil is such a waste of money. Isn't that like 20 bucks a can? I use liquid wrench works great and it's safe only 4 dollars a can at Walmart
Do you differentiate between AWD and FWD?
Sounds like a case for a lemon law attorney….oooppps that may cost more than the part.
I had a 1987 Chevy full size blazer with a bad rear u joint and took the drive shaft out and drove it in 4 wheel drive till I fixed the u joint
unserviceable my ass !!!! WTG
Brilliant Saved my bacon ( cheers )
OK, Mr. O. This is, with part 2, my favorite of the South Main Auto Repair videos. Great extra effort on your part. Thanks for being an inspiration to all your viewers. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!
You are a good man!
Don t say your name…………….Damon………..LMAO
I had one (hyundai but same difference) making that noise. It ended up having a zip lock bag of human hair melted and worked into the front seal. I tried to see if we could replace the bearing and seal but it wasn’t available. Our cost for the coupling was almost $1300 iirc
Dramatic music…………………..Hahahahahahahahahaha!
Good onya mate,rip n tear is how ya learn
That viscous coupler sounds similar to an electric shock absorber with the nano particles suspended in the oil that you can adjust electrically how stiff or loose it gets. That part is probably why it's non serviceable.
It doesn't have a rear differential it's electric
Still waiting for that bulletin!
Looks like a simplistic part
I am more than confused. You have about every tool and toy I would ever want, but NO All Data to tell you how this thing
is assembled?
Eric, you have a desire to tinker and a curious mind…..and you genuinely care about the people you serve. Don't ever sell yourself short.
My 1948 Willie's is 1000 times more reliable than this crap!! Kudos to you for this. Hope KIA doesn't put out a contract hit on you. God bless my freind
And they want $1500 for that, sheesh…
The mechanic heard it the first time he test drove it? If nothing else clearly the mechanic detector is faulty, it's supposed to stop all symptoms when triggered.
Hello. I have a 1998 Ford expedition that has a code of p0171 and p0174. Were to check first
Cool….great example of "right to repair" legislation.
Nice to see honest mechanic still exists. Dealership would have charged 1500 plus. I wish you were here in the pasadena ca area. Thank you for being honest
Very good Video! Do the partnumbers fit to Kia 08/2006?
Seal: BorgWarner 19-00-044-027, NATIONAL 710682, GM 88984501. Bearing: 6008Z NTN, SKF, General, NSK, Schuster.
Vicious coupling as I used to call them , did a few on the type 25 syncro vw vans back in the 90ts . They were built into the front differential housing on these vehicles and just like Kia/ Hyundai ( not repairable) or so they said, dismantled one on my own syncro when the steering started to bind found that it had what looked like a mix of STP ( not a sponsor)additive oil and CV joint grease but instead of being a nice black it was a little sparkly. Pulled it all apart gave it a real good clean and the main part it was just like a motor cycle clutch so a metal ring then a fibre ring all in sequence in a basket . Made up a mixture of STP (not a sponsor) and CV grease re-assembled the unit and that fixed your problem lady 👴🏻😎👍🧓🏻
Do you have to do anything special to make sure nothing gets out of balance? Or nothing to worry about
Gotta love a manufacturer that issues a bulletin for a flawed part but not a recall. Nice guys.
Move to decimal. What's the story
How could u be arsed recording urself working
Today's vehicles are built out of "assemblies" instead of parts. Kroil is the best stuff available. I've been using it since 1977. Snap On tools are not what they used to be. I have a lot of older ones that are great. Now, believe it or not, I just buy Husky or Kobalt. Yes those are homeowner brands, but they seem to be every bit as good as the new Snap On stuff. I'm really surprised a woman was wiling to get her hands dirty. ANY other mechanic would have simply replaced the entire unit, marked up the price, and charged the customer about $2K for it.
I have a Kia spotage 09 got his back rt side yesterday and now my car makes a loud noise like motorcycle. Do you know where it come from
It’s kind of weird how simple it is to fix this, and it’s considered non serviceable.
on my old jd lawn mower spindle bearing on mower deck they were no repairable i put new ones in that hub
good mec breaks tools
a pig bearing
YOU SHOULD NEVER WORK ON THOSE CARS. THEY ARE A TOTAL PIECE OF SHIT!!!!!
KIA/Hyundai probably say the viscous coupling assembly is unserviceable for a few reasons: a. money; b. the viscous coupling itself is permanently sealed since it relies on the action of a special viscous silicone fluid to transfer power and it's not made to be disassembled (kind of like a torque converter); c. if the front bearing fails it probably gets pretty hot and excessive heat breaks down the silicone fluid, causing the coupling to become basically useless since it no longer transfers power effectively, and if the coupling fails it's unserviceable and will need replaced anyway, so may as well just replace the whole assembly. I'd probably recommend trying to test the function of the viscous coupling and if it's out of spec (if any of that info is available) then it's better to pay to replace the assembly rather than go through the effort to replace the bearing in front of an ineffective viscous coupling.
Real mechanic right here. Eric aint no parts changer even on a random ass part on a fuckin kia. Respect brotha