Go back to Part 1! Punishment from the Car Gods! 2008 Ford Flex 3.5l Airbag, Banging, Vibrating parts falling off. https://youtu.be/QehGRbWjIIY
You are here! Part 1.5 the machine the rotors on the lathe https://youtu.be/BDIMI28McW0
Part 2: FLEXing Transmission Mount https://youtu.be/2TFd63XVrkE
Check out my Merchandise Store Below the video for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers! https://rainmanraysrepairs.myspreadshop.com/
Support the channel on Patreon check out the bio: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads is all that I can manage right now
Must have for any toolbox!
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
GearWrench Hose Clamp Pliers: https://amzn.to/33YCVJ3
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 8 https://amzn.to/3mPnpFA
Gopro Hero 9 https://amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 8 Dual Charger https://amzn.to/3EId84c
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
You are here! Part 1.5 the machine the rotors on the lathe https://youtu.be/BDIMI28McW0
Part 2: FLEXing Transmission Mount https://youtu.be/2TFd63XVrkE
Check out my Merchandise Store Below the video for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers! https://rainmanraysrepairs.myspreadshop.com/
Support the channel on Patreon check out the bio: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads is all that I can manage right now
Must have for any toolbox!
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
GearWrench Hose Clamp Pliers: https://amzn.to/33YCVJ3
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 8 https://amzn.to/3mPnpFA
Gopro Hero 9 https://amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 8 Dual Charger https://amzn.to/3EId84c
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
No windscreen washer motor replacement? Thank you for the other videos.
Nice as always to watch some one who takes pride in their work do stuff right.
Also; I noticed you tend to go through those rubberband dampeners. Im wondering if the break cleaner you use is attacking the rubber. Maybe remove the dampener before the spray down?
Just some thoughts. Not a Ree. 😛
as lathe machinist thats a interesting machine
There isn't a worm gear in there. There is a scroll (spiral grooves in the face of a plate) that engages with teeth on the back of each jaw, and a bevel gear that rotates the scroll. If it was a worm gear the socket for the chuck key would be more tangential, instead of going straight in.
You can't get a super fine surface finish on a brake lathe. The are not made to those tolerances need. Only a well made lathe can can do that. There was no reason to make a finish pass since the difference between a rough cut & a finish pass in only about .0001 & your brake lathe does not have the fine turning capabilities for speed & feed rates as a manual lathe has.
This can’t possibly how they do it at oreillys those guys are far too dumb to know how
Three jawed Chuck sounds like a mobster name.
Fantastic video. I had no idea it was such a manual, lengthy process!
Turning rotors. Ancient technology. Never cost effective. Last time I had this done was 1997.
I have an old car with brake drums that are unobtanium maybe when the time comes I should see about sending them to you for resurfacing.
After you get done turning those rotors, the next customer needs points and an automatic choke. Oh and I hope you brought you timing light, got a Chevy with those nylon gears.
WOW very interesting super kool ,1st class great info., AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
What's the cost saving of turning brake rotors vs buying new ones? Not much methinks
It has been more than fifteen years since I ran that exact lathe…& yes, one can even smell still what it was like, the feel of that crank handle as you bring in the bit & it touches down, …all of it.
I hear it is becoming a lost skill as many shops are just throwing "new" rotors & fully loaded calipers, instead of turning rotors & servicing calipers…I guess that's why I was elected to turn flywheels, the ones with the "step" in the surface, I'm guessing no one in that shop was comfortable with that flywheel lathe, nor had the appropriate skill.
Wow! I had a cheap deal when I took brake class in the 90's. I don't even remember running any cuts. Too bad everyone don't have one in their own garage! My Napa don't even do it anymore. CARQUEST still does it but I never did see them using the damper strap or red white and blue dress tie. But it was great to learn the process! Things that go on in an healthy mechanic's garage! 😉😉😉😉😉👍
Maybe you just forgot to eat your Wheaties that day
Lot better setup then I am used to…when I cut I would take minimal amount of the rotors and drums.. your exactly right about the smooth cut.. I always did 1000th on slow
Brake cleaner attacks flexible materials like those dampeners, contributing to premature failure
Isn't it cheaper to just replace the rotors?
Ray loves his brake cleaner so much he shall be know as spray Ray from hereon in.
😁
My own experience with rotors was getting hard spots from hard semi-metallic pads. I had an S10 that ate the rotors while the pads were still thick. Shop turned the rotors and afterwards had pulsations. Tossed them and put on new rotors. Problem solved. Most people run their brakes down to the rivets putting grooves in that can't be turned out or do hard braking that overheats and warps rotors. Unless there is a good reason to keep them (high cost or low wear), I toss them and put on new. Don't want to do it twice. I'm not sure you can even turn some rotors like the ceramics on exotics.
Brake lathe 101 for dummy arses. 1. NEVER cut a rotor to min thick, leave 10 thou extra to allow for the pads "turning" of the rotor. 2. ALWAYS clean the hat area of rotor to obtain a flat mounting surface, preventing induced run out, and check for run out with a dial indicator. 3. ALWAYS do a non directional finish, die grinder/abrasive wheel will work with lathe running. 3. ALWAYS check thickness with micro meter, being sure you're 10 thou above min thick. 4. ALWAYS clean rotor, warm soap and water works great.
As rotors and mounts have gotten smaller and lighter for weight reduction/gas mileage increase {????}, you most often see tapered rotor wear as shown on Rays first pass. Lathe cuts inside near the hat and no cutting of the outside edge. Thus as a general rule, late model FWD rotors need more metal removed to get em flat/true. That said, most often you'll need new rotors every other brake job.Unless you drive like a wild engine headed to the outhouse, machined rotors should not warp any faster/worse than new ones would…Cost wise, Yukon $65.00 each for new rotors, $15.00 each to machine old ones. Customer saves $100.00. Of course this may be an exception if rotors are a lot cheaper, which they are on some cars. We discuss it and I let the customer decide. After all, it's their money and their car and I'll do what they want as long as it's safe…..
Ray can make any mundane job entertaining. I've never seen this done before so I learned something new.. Thanks!
Use your "G.I. Joe Kung Fu Gorilla Grip" on that red nut. Make it nearly impossible for the next guy. Priceless.
You need a pay wall for all the close up slow cut shots
Ray that's a lost art these days. With few exceptions, it's cheaper to Replace then to Turn Rotors. What was the reason in this case?
Waste of time. Put new rotors on. It's a comeback waiting to happen.
That rubber band thing looks like it could snap at any second. Replace that thing, man. EDIT: Oh Snap! I called that before I watched it!
Peep all of the chemicals, cleaners Etc off of the dampening band especially if you know that it's made of natural rubber
Awhile back l asked why rotors and drums were being replaced instead of turned. A few made light of the comment and treated it as one of the dumbest questions to ask. Our shop had a set fee for the service. Rotors had a higher cost and the dampening belts were leather, yeah l'm old. Side question; How are your fowl getting along?
Where is the cutoff where this is and isn't worth doing?
My name is Ray ,im addicted to brake clean
I thought that was a lost art. I only see rotors replaced now a days
As far as I know, the 1 place that used to turn drums and rotors stopped turning them when it was sold
This should be done more. The world needs to stop depending on cheap stuff from China or we'll all end up in their pockets like Germany is with Russia because of its dependence on gas imports.
My way is the best and only right way to do this Ray and that's to take it to you and let you do it
at about 6 minutes, when you adjust the left side, we can see shavings flying away on the right side. maybe the disc isn't supported enough on the lathe?
good video
I when't to sleep and in my sleep we need to get you more sub likes and trolls lol WHAT I was deaming lol
Hey man, love the channel. This is my favourite thing to do in the shop. I usually clean the inner disc where the jaws clamp on with a wire wheel first to clean up the debris to make sure the runout is perfect 👌🏻 I also check the runout/disc alignment with the reflection off the cutter on the disc itself, once both of these have been done it’s bang on !
Anyway I won’t harp on take it easy legend
Like others have said, there is a minimum thickness that these can be used at and if you cut them under that you would be liable if the customer ever had a braking failure!
Always verify the thickness with a properly calibrated micrometer.
How the hell do you know so much? I’m taking my car to Sarasota for repair from Northwest Orlando. Please promote your shop!
What editing software do you use?
I never have much luck with machined rotors they seem to warp and get runout quicker than new rotors after some sustained heavy high temperature usage.
How long it takes to make one brake disk on the machine? Arent those cheap parts to replace?
With all the rotors coming from Chinakistan, and the supply chain so screwed up turning rotors is the way to go. Some Mopar Oil filters are not available at all from ANY supplier, Mopar or aftermarket.
Use the silencer that you used on the first rotor near the end of the cutting as a non-directional cut. That's what it's MADE for, rotors too thin for a rubber band silencer, or an added help for the noisy ones.
I miss having a brake lathe. One day, I'll get my own. Some indestructible beast from the '50s.
At first when you put the rotor in the chuck I was like that doesn’t seem right as you want it to be true to the mating surface of the bearing .. once it went on the lathe , the light went on lol
You eye cannot see runout, get a better optician.