This is a video showing a procedure you can use start to finish to aid you in replacing your front and rear pads and rotors on your 2008 Suzuki XL7.
Parts used in video:
Front rotor # YH145693
Rear rotor # YH145694
Front pad # Wearever Platinum Professional PXD1264H
Rear pad # Wearever Platinum Professional PXD1275H
Brake parts cleaner #W7341
Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant #09973
Castle Muscle Grease # C1606
Fluid Film Powerful Rust & Corrosion Protection # 00207
All parts can be purchased online or at Advance Auto except for the Castle products.
Please favorite our videos, like us on Facebook and subscribe to our channel to stay up to date with the latest repairs going on here in the shop. Thanks for watching!
Parts used in video:
Front rotor # YH145693
Rear rotor # YH145694
Front pad # Wearever Platinum Professional PXD1264H
Rear pad # Wearever Platinum Professional PXD1275H
Brake parts cleaner #W7341
Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant #09973
Castle Muscle Grease # C1606
Fluid Film Powerful Rust & Corrosion Protection # 00207
All parts can be purchased online or at Advance Auto except for the Castle products.
Please favorite our videos, like us on Facebook and subscribe to our channel to stay up to date with the latest repairs going on here in the shop. Thanks for watching!
Hello. Thanks so much for your channel!
I'm watching some of your old videos and I wonder what your opinion is on using anti-seize on the caliper brackets below the hardware clips versus the grease that you use? Why is the grease a better option for preventing rust buildup or to keep the pad from binding?
Also, no grease at all on the pad ears and hardware? Wouldn't it help it move more freely?
I like his consistency video to video. Says alot on his brake jobs
I love your vids man. Thank you for letting us look over your shoulder and giving us such simple useful awesome material
Very informative And Entertaining Brake Job Eric O nice work as always @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Old vid I've never seen, No wonder Eric O still around,he the best teacher of car repair still to this day in 22
Have come a long way..
It's crazy watching these older videos and seeing how you've evolved over the years on YouTube.
Excellent video. Very helpful information.
It's okay to push the Pistons in without breeding them. First you should take the cover off your master cylinder and place a rag underneath it. If you have ever topped off that Reservoir during the life of those brake pads your Reservoir will be too full and some brake fluid will run out. If you leave the top on you and take a chance of damaging the seal due to pressure and the reservoir.
It happened to me that even after cleaning up the caliper braket , i had pads that were really hard to slide on the hardware. I've grinded the ends of the pads to that they move more freely. I guess i should return them and try a different brand?
You don't put a little lube on the pad to hardware bracket surface?
Moly-Denim? Is that an early SMA'ism? really cool seeing this 'classic' SMA videos.
Just did a 2015 Toyota, had no lube in the slide pins crazy
Always enjoy these videos . They are very detailed . Keep up the great work . Thanks
if you dont have an air hammer just use an SDS drill on chisel mode ! /UK
good info but my xl7 rotor looks nothing like that (2002) with 4 wheel drive
Best video from MSA so far. Most detailed and best explanation very well delivered. Great general brake replacement tutoring for any car. Thumbs up. Keep them coming
The top caliper retainer bolt doesn't need to be removed. The bottom retainer bolt can be removed and the caliper swung up and pull the slider and all out of the bracket. The first thing done before removing any bolts should have been to pry the caliper back to give the pads room to clear the rotor when swinging it up and out of the way. Relining sliders before reassembly is always recommended. That is a great caliper tool. Never crack a bleeder to push the caliper back, if it doesn't push back easily, it's possible it needs to be replaced. A little lube goes a long way on the sliders. That hardware doesn't need to be replaced every time unless completely rusted, bent or broken. Very few pad replacement kits issue this hardware at all. It's less common to need to replace them. Clean them with a wire brush and brake cleaner, lube them with any brake parts lube. You don't lube before the hardware goes on either, only the parts where the pads make contact need lube. It is easier to mount the pads once the caliper bracket is reinstalled back on the vehicle and the rotor is already in place.
Cleaning rotors with brake parts cleaner to remove the oil coat before installation is better because any rust prevention methods used prior can be cleaned away if sprayed after installation. The oil coat is there to help prevent rust on the rotor while it sits on a shelf waiting to be used.
Your thoughts on ceramic brake pad break-in procedures would NOT be boring in any way shape or form!
Discovered your channel a month ago while looking for a reason why my wife's 2012 Honda Pilot front brakes were squeaking after I changed them 6 months ago. Your video's show lots of great details that others seem to skip. I did swap out the pads again (before finding your channel) and the squeak is gone but one step I missed was removing the rust from the wheel hub & caliper pistons and the 3 little spots on the caliper and applying some anti seize. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Any recommendations on a good brake hub resurfacing kit? Found an OTC (8342) on Amazon but it looks like it is made out of plastic and probably won't last too long. Also, would Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize be a decent alternative to Castle Muscle Grease?
Best brake pad and rotor replacement on the internet!!
Good job, I get a lot of good tips from you. Thank you
Hi everyone, My name is Angele and I work for PARKWAY SUZUKI in Dover Ohio. I can order and ship all the OEM Suzuki parts for you. 330-364-9054
Kool video well done
I know it's an old video but you answered all my questions. Thank you!!! I'm bowing now😀
Just came across this vid in Nov 2020. Make sure you pump your brakes a few times or your gonna go for one helluva ride back down your driveway ! Lol
THAT CALIPER HANGING OW OW OW OW
i feel hes got more comfortable, i would be nervous my self they first few videos if i was starting videoing
Do you guys not have car washes in NY State??? Here is MB it gets down to -40c, with lots on snow and ice on the roads. They use a lot of salt, maybe even more than in NY State. But here we wash our vehicles at least once per week, usually twice per week and never do the vehicles get as bad as I have seen on your videos. Yes, they are worse than non cold weather states/provinces, but nothing like the vehicles in your videos!
Thank you for your video. 🙂
Great job
Dare someone to dab all that onto their teeth.
About to do this, on this car, next week. Thanks
I almost always use the air hammer to loosen rotors. I pray that the rear rotors come off without having to adjust the parking brakes so they clear the ridge inside.
The hallmark of a good teacher is when they fully explain the process, every single time. Even if this is the first video you ever watched on the channel you still get all the good advice you need. It's so frustrating when a Youtuber explains something once in an early video and then just assumes everyone got the message.
Another excellent video Eric. Do you ever reuse rotors?
I like how you explain what is wrong on the obd11 machine and dos and don'ts
I never see him work on Nissan trucks
Dose he work on Nissan titan trucks
I've become a far better "Home Mechanic" thru every minute of every video on your channel. Thank you so much. Say hi to Mrs. O when you get a chance, I'll be by for lunch the next time I'm in New York! lol
Also, with the other channels he got, i think he just want attention
I think eric o should go back to these kind of videos, no excesive intro or brake clean intro, no need for all that
wow that is a rusty totor
This has to be the best tutorial I have ever watched. Thank You!
Eric, what is that right angle impact you used in the video?
Love your videos!
Great instruction and very clear, good job, thank you your sharing video.
Great job 👍 mr.south no need for sound effects keep up the good work
Oh ….n u should treat urself to a Milwaukee 1/2 inch impact Model # 2861-20 …..u will kick ur own butt for dragging that air hose around…..
What brand name is that extra long 18 mm wrench u used to pull the bolts out of the bracket that holds the caliper……?