In this video I show you the process of replacing rear pads and rotors on your 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. These are a little tricky to do.
Parts used in filming:
-Brake Rotor - Rear Wearever Part No. YH200450
-Ceramic Brake Pads - Rear Platinum Professional Part No. PXD1445H
Thanks for watching and please use the factory repair manual to get the correct procedure and specs.
Parts used in filming:
-Brake Rotor - Rear Wearever Part No. YH200450
-Ceramic Brake Pads - Rear Platinum Professional Part No. PXD1445H
Thanks for watching and please use the factory repair manual to get the correct procedure and specs.
You are the best bro!
I have the same 2011 with the idiot Hyundai engineering. Had to bring it to my trusted mechanic to replace the rotors. I didn't have a big impact gun. Being in the rust belt of No. Minnesota, it had to be done twice. Great instructional video!
Thank you! and 😂😂😂😂 to your rant…
If you jack up the lower control arm under the spring first the bushing lines up perfect, bolt goes in like butter takes all of 5 seconds to put back together
The trick I've been looking for… An allignment bar! I've been looking at these vids and I knew there had to be an easier way to get the hole to line back up. There's a special place in hell for Hyundai for putting this mess. Thanks bro!
How come your caliber bolt come off so easy but my can’t get out
Eric O, hey ho! Another great video. Great Rant!
Hey what spray on anti-seize are you using there?
I noticed you didn’t remove any fluid, unless I just missed it. Other folks in other videos removed some fluid before compressing the piston, is it not necessary? Also like that you don’t wear doctors gloves like most of today’s mechanics, we never wore gloves when we were kids wrenching our cars in the street.
Lmfao At the Rant and The Warning for the rant 🤣🤣 always Quality Entertaining Eric O @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Great video. Agree, that control link placement is the worst!
Great video. I bought the alignment punch from O'Reilly auto for $34.99 for the set. It was a pain in the a$$ to get it lined up without it.
Definitely need that alignment bar for that pesky bolt
I just started working at a (non-Hyundai) dealership a few months back. I've been learning a lot, but obviously about our make. All of a sudden, I get this 2013 Hyundai Sonata for rear brakes and I have NO IDEA what to do about that lower bolt! You sir, have saved my ass. I've been watching your videos for a few years now, but I haven't had much time lately, since I stopped working a desk job. Again,, you saved me. Thanks Mr. O.
Thanks! I thought I had to take out the shock bolt.
Great video!!! Everything you said made sense and all the little things you brought up that’s priceless. You forgot one more thing that you taught us about changing the rear brake pads, just take it to a mechanic who knows what he is doing. I don’t want to mess with the suspension, it’s already gonna take me at least three hours to change, then add rear springs, No thank you. I just change my front pads everything‘s all OK. If you were in Northern California I would use you all day long.
Again thank you I information is very helpful
"And remember viewers, if I can do it, you can do it." Fun to watch the older videos.
Have a 2013 sonata didnt take any thing loose on suspension ..remove caliper.loosened rotor by removing two keeper screws ..removed uppet caliper bracket bolt..you can get a 12 mm wrench on lower bracket bolt loosen and back it out until head hits bushing keep loosening until it is out of bracket bolt stays in pkace .use a large flat screw driver or pry bar, slide it next to where the bracket and bolt are .pry it about 1/16 and slide bracket up and out rebuild bracket with grease at appropie spots.put back in reverse make sure new rotor lines up with scew holes slide rotor on after cleaning e brake..put bracket and just bumped bracket with my hand and popped right back in where lower bolt lined up with lower hole .started lower bracket bolt making sure not to cross thread .put top bracket bolt in then tighten both .put screws back in rotor .put brakes and caliper back..didnt remove any bolts out of suspension save alot of time and headache
Thank you for a quality vid
Great video. Thank you. It worked. 👍🏽🖖🏽
Great Video as always Eric! Quick question, what alignment punch do you use to get everything back lined up for the bolt ? I have one of these cars and my aunt does as well. I always struggle with this for at least a few hours every time I do rear brakes on them. Thanks in advance!
A simpler way to adjust the parking brake adjuster is: (Same procedure for rear passenger and driver)
To Losen:
Use your 90 degree pick to PULL at the bottom on the adjuster gripping poles
To Tighten
Use your 90 degree pick to PUSH at the bottom on the adjuster gripping poles
To make a pick get a cheap relatively thin (Not to thin) screw driver from the dollar store. Cut off the tiip and bend it 90 degrees. Great Video it helped me immensely today. It was a pain to do but not impossible as a driveway backyard mechaniic.
Just did my wifes 2007 Sonata. Not as tricky
nice job. good viewing angles, good narrating, good simple explanations. best i've watched on this. keep them coming!
So funny put gas in the car. So true
Excellent presentation, you go step by step where most people would get stuck. I wish I lived closer to you ,I would bring all my cars to you. If you ever in Orlando Florida ypu have customers here.
Got that on demand on comp
How are the plastic pistons not crumbling under pressure when hit the brake? Is there an alternate replacement piston for it that's not plastic?
Love the video. One question. Is there any reason that the control arm bolt cannot be put back on with the head of the bolt facing the rear of the car, rather than the front of the car (as installed)? There is plenty of clearance (on a 2021 Sonata) to tighten the nut on the other side and there does not seem to be any impediment as a result. Just wondering if there is a reason that I am not considering.
Eric my man! you are my favorite garage youtuber. Normally i watch you just for entertainment but today i followed this tutorial. Was a little harder to do on the ground with a floor jack but i got er done
Not only do you hit all the proper points, you go above and beyond explaining how, why, and exactly what you need. I know it’s an older video, but holy smokes…glad you made this when it came time to work on my wife’s 2012 Hyundai Sonata! And yes…the control arm removal was the most ridiculous thing (mechanically) I’ve seen in some time. 😳
DUDE: CLOCKWISE OR COUNTER????????? PLEASE COMINICATE??? THXS!!
very good and complete video
Thank you for the video. I was able to use the video to help me replace the wheel studs.
Excellent video..mentally prepared me for the ridiculous Hyundai engineering added extra step. Wasn't as hard and didn't take as long as I thought it would. Having an impact wrench helps and follow the video. 2nd 1 took a 1/3 of the time. A few bolts were on tight and 1 rotor was stuck pretty good. Thanks
Looks like an expensive brake job if you don't do it yourself.
i just did this to my 2013 Sonata yesterda. without your video, i would not know how to replace that bolt. first time i see a car maker do a bolt like that. what were they thinking? must be smoking or very high during the design. but i just wanna say thank you so much for all of your videos and all that you do, sir! lots of respect for you. i liked and subscribed. please, continue posting more videos.
This is the dumbest design even for a simple rotor replacement, this is the reason some people don't want to do mechanic
Great video – well explained
And love the mini rant and your right if the cars out of gas and needs to be tested out the customer can't expect you to fuel his car to do it how ever I have had a few mechanics who would run the car short of empty testing the ecm or picm and I came to pick up the car I left it with a full tank and got it back at 1/8 of a tank and often I'd be paying for other people's parts as I was told I needed new wheel hub bearing for my 97 jeep Cherokee Lorado and get the vehicle back and no new hub bearings so I bring it back and told the owner I paid for 2 new hub bearings and their not on here
Yep had a customer who did that once he came to get his car and he started it and proceeded to drive out of the parking lot made his turn went about 8 feet and the car quit and he came back wanted to know if I have a gas can with some gas he could put in the car to get it to the gas station I amiled and said no but I have a tow truck right here and will pull it out of the road for you. He was mad and said never mind and asked me why I didn't put any gas back in it after my test drive I laughed I fixed the problem and put it out side never took it for a drive because it had no gas in it it was as you left it I added nothing to it and took nothing away from it that's all you.everytime after that his car always has better than half a tank.
No need to unbolt the shock. If you compress the suspension with that jack it will move the shock just enough to slide bolt out. Just finished the job. Thank you for the great video!
You are a awesome mechanic bro
I like the video, but I didn't have to disconnect the shock to remove the control arm bolt or to reinstall it on my 2013 Hyundai Sonata Limited. I guess I just got lucky. Fortunately, I'm a logical guy and figured out that I had to remove the control arm before I watched your video. Your video was a good peer check for me to know that was the correct way to do it. Thanks. Keep publishing and charge those people who forget to put gas in their car and extra hour of labor!!!
Great video thanks
Absolutely a fantastic video on how to do the rear brakes on the Sonata. Very clear and precise instructions.
Keep up the great work!
If it's anything like my 2012 Sonata, the gas gauge doesn't work.
Do u need alignment adjusted after loosening control arm?
Thank you! I'm new to repair work on a 2009 Kia Sedona, and the direct available videos for the brake pad changes are quite unhelpful, on critical issues. I was really mystified that I couldn't get the pads to slip back into caliper slots, even after putting in new hardware. Other videos skip or gloss over this step, yet your video here anticipated the problem and offered solutions in advance. Learned a lot from you, yet again. 🙂
“One two barbecue” 😂👍 good video bud.
Gearwrench long reach wrench will eliminate the need to remove the training arm and shock. The offset on the box end allows you to get it and spin it out.