Do Not pull out in front of trucks That will get you killed. Something Easy Hood Gravity. That's right, You read the title correctly. This is a repeat failure right here.

I Think what we're looking at is a Nissan Altima I Don't know the mileage yet because this is my first time experiencing this car. Uh, looks like it's an O5 Altima Yep Earth it is the SL trim model. It has approximately 77 250 miles on the odometer. Let us starting Z Engine customer stage.

They just had some work done on it once upon a time not long ago actually and now the service engine soon Illuminator is illuminated. I'm gonna go ahead and fetch the scan tool. That's our problem here. Let's see what the trouble codes say and then we can go from there.

So stay tuned because this is gonna be a very good Nissan video. All right coming in with the scan tool powering on Meep Oh by the way I Forgot to say hi everybody. Good day to you! Welcome back Let's get this thing plugged in There we go. All right Scan Tools is going to bring up us some data.

We're going to pull trouble codes and uh, see what this thing's talking about with a check engine light Illuminator scanner. Let's get some AC going. while we're in here we're looking for Nissan Datsun You guys remember Dotson's LMNOP Nissan There we go Nissan It's a Nissan Nissan automatic ID Satellites are linking up and outer space through the Wi-Fi You gonna work waiting waiting? It's not going to Auto ID Now we're stuck. Hey please wait.

I've been waiting. We're still stuck still waiting. Satellites have Linked UP Alrighty, we're in. We got an 05 Nissan Altima 2.5 liter four-cylinder Let's enter engine.

What do we have? Show me the trouble codes Still waiting. Initializing communication One moment. Camshaft position Sensor Problem Bank One p Three Four Zero Okay, I know what could that mean? Let's go into Data and see if we can get a live reading on what that camshaft is doing. Uh, Codes Menu: Freeze Frame Day to day to data.

There we go. Data: No codes. We want data. All of the data.

All the information we can possibly get information on Engine data. One Sure, we'll start in the beginning. Okay, data's pulling up. We've got things like: RPM mass airflow voltage grams per second in mass airflow readings calculated load coolant temp What are my O2 sensors doing? It's actually got an air fuel ratio sensor and then an O2 sensor that's the one behind the cat.

It's just a different type. got battery voltage scrolling along intake temp fuel level. It's not what I want? Nope, not what I want Okay, we're in the wrong data menu backing out. Hey I'm scrolling through day to two and Data 2 is not telling me what I want.

Let's go back out and go into Data Three. Hmm. and Data 3 is not giving me camshaft position sensor information either I Want to know if the cams are Advanced or if they're I Want to know if they're sticking there or if this is an intermittent or I Want to know if it's just losing it's a it's camshaft position sensor signal I Don't know. but I want to know I need to know? That's what we're trying to know.

Hmm, what is this under Special Tests VT Assign angle degrees Is that valve train angle? That might be what we're looking for here. Let's pull this thing up and see what this self-test wants us to do. Okay, it says warm-up engine before starting, test or test will not run. Keep engine at 2500 rpm during test.

Okay, continue. Well, it's idling at 800 so we're gonna have to give it some throttle here. Do 2500? See what this thing does? A 2600 off some? We have too many hundreds right right there. That's what we're looking for.

So let's see. No, no, no, no intake valve bank one I Don't know if this is what I need as I select the plus I Think it's changing the uh, the valve train angle. So far we're moved up to 10 degrees. Okay, the camshaft seems to be responding to commands.

Let's go ahead and back out of this menu and do a visual inspection of the engine. Well, Okay So we've got some. Direction Let us pop an easy hood and power this thing down. Let us locate the camshaft position sensor.

uh I think it was labeled the B1 sensor. Anyway, let's locate the camshaft position, angle sensors, and uh, let's check the connectors, make sure the connectors are good and connected, and we'll check the wiring and then we'll go from there. Okay, a couple things we need to uh accomplish here. Let's get a little bit of light on the subject: light bar engaged powering on surface of the Sun mode.

There we go. and uh I need to pull this engine cover off Now as I understand and like I mentioned earlier, there were some previous repairs that were attempted on this vehicle I Think that it got like a tune-up and some spark plugs. Something like that. Nothing major.

So I don't know they had to replace those components trying to resolve this issue or what the deal is. but we're gonna go back and check all that work and make sure that that's good. and then we'll deal with this cam position problem. business stop being stuck I'll run it sideways.

go take bolts out sideways. There we go. Get rich to this bullet gravity I Already hit the ground. No worries.

All right. So judging from the look of this thing here, we've got a new valve cover. Or at least a very, very clean valve cover. It's got a set of coils on there, which leads me to believe that there's also a set of plugs in there.

And based on all this sealant right here, I'm assuming somebody put a uh timing chain in this once perhaps? Did I work on this? Did I put this uh, this valve cover on I wonder if this was me I don't know I didn't think it was I don't think I've seen this car before. it happens though. you never know. Anyway, that looks like a a new Upstream O2 sensor new ish I think that is our cam position sensor connector right back here.

Let me go over to all data and take a look at that and see if that's uh, that is what we're looking for or not logging into the all data. Got the VIN saved here. Let's paste that in. There's our van that's going to look up the vehicle and what was that code? P0340 P0340 I don't remember P30 Get camshaft position sensor a circuit bank one.

Okay, pulling up location here. we're zooming in. This is the driver's side of the cylinder head. That's the O2 sensor connector right there and it appears that that is our phase camshaft position sensor location right there.

So what we're looking at outside is the correct one. Okay, all right. so going back to revisit this sensor. see if I can't get it to easily disconnect, we can take a look at the pins in the connector first.

Let's remove this coolant temp sensor first. now. Come here. Thumb disconnected.

There we go. Get rid of that one. It wasn't connected very well I Don't think those pins look okay. somebody.

Pierce Probe these wires. No, no, those are good. Okay, all right, let's plug this thing back in. Make sure that's got a good connection.

Plug that guy back in so we know we're connected. We know it's in good shape. Let's take a look. I Don't think that sensor has been replaced or anything like that.

So nobody's tried to troubleshoot this issue. That's fine back inside. I Really would like to see the live data for where the camshafts are uh, are positioned while the engine's running. So uh, let us restarting the engine beginning engine starting.

We go all right. So under code definitions in my scan tool for P0340 this code will set when the ECM detects an open or a short in the camshaft position sensor circuit. So that means an open is meaning the sensor is uh, is not connected to anything. As if pretend I unplug the connector and then try to run it.

That would be an open circuit because it's not. It's not complete. A short circuit is when the wires are shorting together or there is a hard connection between the wires circumventing the the actual sensor. Now, a short or an open can occur within a sensor and a short or an open can occur in the wiring somewhere.

So just because we have the code does not mean we need a sensor. It could also indicate the possibility of a wiring issue. So what I'm going to do is we're going to go and perform what's called now I Know it's just it's going to be called the Wiggle test and we basically just get a hold of wires and we're going to aggravate them, wiggle them around and we're going to observe the engine. If the engine were to install or a run rough or anything changes while wiggling it, we can then hypothesize that there's some kind of damage in the harness.

again an open or short. Yeah, it causing the code. Um, not really seeing anything. Kind of out of place here.

Let's move these ones as well. Where's the ECM down here? Yeah, I Don't think we're gonna find anything wrong with this harness and that's pretty good too. Okay, let's head back inside. We'll pull the Uh I've got to find the data I Need to find Scandal data first for that specific sensor.

Oh, without getting water on the floor of the carpet. Well, this is nice. Over here in this Sub menu we have a uh a test button. Let's go and run the test.

So we've got a tech tip. Also, Camshaft Position Sensor Test test. Camshaft position sensor CMP is located near the rear cylinder head we know and uh or near the bell housing which is where we were at. Let's see here, the signal is used by the ECM to determine the cylinder number.

Intermittent faults are common and may require the use of component testing or a lab scope to diagnose a check for square wave output. Well, we're not going to do that because I don't have a lab scope. Okay, so I don't have a lab scope. so I can't scope the uh, the wave output from from the sensor.

Maybe I can get some kind of info out of this from live data. So I've got to find the pit somewhere that tells me where that camshaft is. So here's what we're looking at for possible causes: We have a wire problem. We have a connector problem which I doubt we have a connection problem again.

I don't think we do. We may have an intermittent problem with the sensor itself. For example, it reaches a certain temperature and it goes open circuit. We may also have a physical problem with the engine.

If the camshaft in play is excessive, then the reluctor ring that cues the sensor in regards to the camshaft position. like wherever it is actually sitting in rotation. If that camshaft and thrust is too far, the reluctor wheel can get too far away from the sensor and then the sensor can't read the position on the wheel and it'll say hey, I'm open circuit I'm not working out so we we could have physical engine wear. It could also be out of time, which I don't think it is.

It runs fairly smooth. Yeah, I don't think we're out of time, but that doesn't mean we don't have some kind of wear or slop in the system somewhere else. Okay, next I'm pulling up Freeze Frame Data What? Freeze Frame Data Is it? It's going to take a snapshot of all of the relevant data that was going on at the moment that that trouble code had been set. So I'm looking to see if the PID is going to be in here.

See, there's the DTC that was stored. camshaft position sensor your problem bank one and I don't see a readout on where the cams were at that at that moment. Yeah, see, it tells me coolant temp. So the vehicle was at operating temperature.

it was a 24 load. Uh. fuel trims were okay. Engine speed was 1 344 RPMs vehicle was not moving.

Okay, there's the code and end of list. My my data is remarkably limited. This is fun. Okay, I have an idea.

Let's let's try to think outside of the box here. Uh, the proper way as we saw earlier is to scope this. So what I'm going to find out is if this code is current like it's it's happening right now or if this code is showing up intermittently. So I'm going to clear it and we're gonna shut it down.

Maybe do a drive cycle and I want to see. Okay I cleared the code. Engine shut off, Power that down, Power that back on. Continue Code Clear was a success.

I'll do one more with the engine off just to make sure it's cleared out. Initializing it's communicating. Come on, come on. Scanning tool.

Okay, there's the code again. let's try to clear one more time. Back it up. Clear trouble Codes: Yes I'm sure.

Come on, come on come on please. Okay, go clear. success. Key off, key back on.

let's check trouble codes again. What I want to see is if it's here right now or if I have to drive this to get it to come back. That's going to tell me the nature of the failure. No codes present.

Okay, stopping the engine. that was a long crank. look at that. There it is.

Came back twice. So the problem is present right now. That's interesting. okeydoke.

So here's how I'm gonna digest this situation: I Don't believe we have a sensor circuit problem I I I'm leaning towards There's an actual issue with the sensor. It's either going to be the sensing unit or we're going to have some kind of internal engine issue as we saw I Kind of need to lab scope that and back probe the connector and then scope it. but I cannot do such things. So my plan to make this as streamlined as possible is actually going to be the cardinal sin of Parts Cannon Foreign Parts Canon What? I'm gonna do since this is incredibly easy to get out and I imagine that sensing unit is not a lot of money.

I'm gonna toss one in I'm gonna toss one in and then we're gonna go out and drive it and then see if we get that code to reoccur. If the code does not reoccur, Then my triagnostic was correct. If it does reoccur with a known good sensor in that location, then I have failed and we have to start looking at things more internal to the engine. my camshaft in play.

or uh, perhaps there's a phaser that's hanging up at the chain. Something for the variable valve timing, there could be some kind of an issue internally. Now, the reason that I'm okay with just tossing a part in there is like I said. that's really easy.

Anything else to diagnose is going to be somewhat difficult and a little bit labor intensive, so it's actually more cost effective for me to just take the risk of tossing that 40 something dollar sensor in there and then seeing how it goes. If it goes okay, then we're good and if it does not go okay, then we can start to move into the direction of more invasive. Diagnostics But I think for preliminarily what we're looking at I think that's going to be the best course of action. So what I need I think is looking like a 10 mil.

See it down there I need a 10 mil wrench? It's going to sneak in there and get that bolt out and then, uh, we'll pop that sensor out and get the new one. But first I need to order a new one. So let me do that real quick and then we'll pull that bolt out of there Okey-dokes I've ordered a replacement unit I Was going to record that part but things are getting a little loud in there so I figured it'd be best to just keep that to myself. Let me unclick There we go.

A little hot inside of this engine. It's been running well. You guys know that you were there. Yeah, let's get this.

Uh, this little bolt out of here. This is harder than I think it was because I can't get a wrench on it. Let me unbolt this bolt. We'll fish this sensor out without burning my fingers here.

and then, uh, by the time I get this thing out, perhaps the new one will have arrived and then, uh, we can toss it in and go from there. I think ooh, hot, ooh hot hot, it's not working here I Know how to get this out of here without burning my flanges. We will insulate them with an insulator. You can see.

the issue here is that uh, there's a coolant hose right there and I've got to sneak this bolt out. My hand has to touch other things that are hot like the rest of the engine and it makes me want to burn myself. I mean I don't want to, but it happens. Hot hot, hot stainless.

Come on bolt. Ooh warm. I Could wait, but you guys know me. I'm impatient I'm not gonna wait I'll just burn myself.

There we go. It's almost out. Almost there. It is okay.

I have retrieved the bolt. Pop this little sensing unit out of here. take a look at it I'm gonna wiggle it some it's not coming out. let's turn it some.

I'll get in there with a fry driver that'll help. Let's just get behind it a little bit and kind of pop it out. The O-ring tends to capture things like that and that's uh. that's what the issue is here.

How's this thing looking? Is that an OE sensor? or is this something something different? No, that's this. has been there for a while. See the O-ring how it's flattened. If this was a replacement sensor, that O-ring would still be circular.

Okay, okie dokes. x amount of time has passed and I have a replacement unit. Now we can see this is slightly different than the original. The original was a square shaped sensor and this one is round.

I Don't believe that that's going to be an issue because the reluctor wheel that or the pickup wheel is at the end of the sensor, so it shouldn't really care as long as the depth is correct and I believe it is. So let me just sneak this super hot bolt back in and we can plug this guy back in, reconnect it, but restart the engine and then see we can get the code to clear. Maybe we'll lock out and I don't have to do engine work on this I Don't think we're gonna do engine work on this because it is just an Ultima and these two fives are somewhat expensive to uh do timing work on it. might even need like a cylinder head or something I don't want to do that.

Not on this thing. I'm babbling on about the horrors of Nissans the Chryslers of Japan a little tighter. Here we go. Come on.

Bolt click. This might have been easier if I had taken uh like the air box apart but I didn't then I won't do it the hard way. reaching final 10 mil. Click Now right there is good.

Let us plug this thing back in. We'll head back into the cabin to restart the unit and uh, we'll see if this thing's gonna run properly or not. Um I'm gonna plug in or did I just install the wrong stuff. Seriously the wrong.

The wrong thing. Okay, no it's not I just uh, was putting the connector on wrong user error. Okay, back into the cabin, let us restocking Z engine. We'll check for trouble code status, then go from there beginning engine starting sequence.

where's my keys? Now there they are all right. Okay, look at that no light, it's like already off and I didn't even turn it off Let's uh, let's go ahead and check codes. Yep, there's the codes. so the mill is off.

The codes are still stored. Let me go in here and clear these guys out. Mill is still off. no malfunction.

indicator lamp is indicated. Good initializing. Again, codes are cleared back into code's menu. Show me the no codes.

no codes present. Okay, so so far we're looking good. I think a final test drive will confirm this to be a fix or a non-fix Okay, after a brief hiatus, uh, backing out again I actually stopped and went inside and then got distracted. and then this giant rainstorm came and flooded the parking lot and prevented me from driving outside of said parking lot safely.

So it has been x amount of time since I was fixing to leave the first time. but now I'm uh I Feel confident that it is safe and okay to drive in the inclement weather on our bright Florida sunshiny day. Anyway, we're back in the car. scan tools, pull, uh, pulled back up.

Um, interestingly enough, before we get going, uh I actually did find a PID for the intake. uh, camshaft timing. If we look right here, we've got intake valve timing Bank One In degrees, there's only one One bank and right now we're hanging out at uh, two degrees. Let's throw this thing in neutral and we can watch it change as I Advance the throttle.

so see: 40 degrees Advanced 42. stabilized now 22 24, 35 Throttle burp it off the throttle it it's hanging out down at zero Let's uh, let's check it while cranking real quick. So we're gonna power this down here. Okay, that's it.

Rest, we're zero while cranking. No crazy negative numbers. stayed pretty stable. I'm leaning away from this thing, having like a camshaft in play or a like a loose timing chain or broken tensioner issue it's possible.

But but again, I figured a triagnostic with the sensor would probably be the most cost effective way to make that determination. So we're going to go out and drive this thing around for a little while as long as the weather's not too nasty and if all is well, I'm gonna give it back to the guy with the caveat of hey, this thing could have some kind of timing chain issue or a tensioner issue or some camshaft in play issue or thrust I Don't know. And in short of taking it apart to make that determination considering that I do not have an oscilloscope here I figured uh, tossing that part in would be the most effective way to make that determination since we're using the process of elimination to conclude that it is not a sensor and it is not the connector. Uh, and it is not a wire.

Yeah, as soon as we pulled out, started raining more. This is crazy town, right? sunshining day? The good news is we still don't have a malfunction indicator lamp and we do not have any trouble codes that are pending. Yeah, this is going to be a short test drive. The row ads are getting kind of flooded.

That first wave came through and saturated everything. All the subsequent rainstorms. those are just going to add to the water table until it can all drain. Hope this thing has good tires.

Do not pull out in front of trucks that will get you killed. I Know that seems like common sense but I keep seeing like these internet videos of people break checking trucks so they just pull right on out. They think trucks are slow and it I Guess folks don't understand the concept of those trucks. They're going just as fast as the rest of us and they weigh 80 000 pounds and they don't stop like the rest of us.

So if you drive out in front of them they will run you over and then you will become flat and it's going to be difficult for you to survive If in fact, you are flat with a truck on top of you. so don't pull out in front of trucks. Silly! So I've been glancing over at the scan tool data, we're still paying attention to the number that's underneath the highlighted number. That's the camshaft timing and it seems to be uh, following its desired position.

So the one that's highlighted That's the solenoid indicating the position that it's Desiring and then the actual is going to be the number right below it right there. and it appears that the actual is in sync with the desired. So uh, I'm believing that we are not seeing an issue with timing just yet. That doesn't mean it's not there, it just means it's not showed up or it's not there.

and we fixed the problem by Parts Canon This, uh, the sensor and the thing point being is I'm paying attention to scan tool data. We just want to make sure that we're on the right track here. We also I'm gonna need some uh, some defrost action. Get a little foggy in here.

Let's give it some throttle while in gear and see what happens with that timing. It's going to climb up pretty decent. Yeah, it's steady. See how we're not just flopping around.

We're not seeing like a negative number show up, but we're not seeing uh, this this measurement again. It'll go up between 60 and 40 and 30. it's all remaining consistent and stable. and that's good.

If there was a excessive slack in the chain, we might see that figure. Bounce Around Additionally, if the camshaft had a lot of thrust play in it at the back and forth motion, it would also uh, change the desire or the Uh measured output angle of that camshaft and it would be an erratic signal. and we would see those numbers jumping around. which we do not at this at this time.

So I I Think the things. We might have got it. Silly tractor. We don't cut grass in the rain.

So much water. No, we're floating, floating and sliding and sinking and floating. It's not okay. All right, creeping up to another light here.

I've been reviewing the data. That stuff's looking pretty good so far. So what? I'm gonna do. Watch this and shut her down.

Restart the engine. The reason that I did that is if there's a trouble code that's pending, it may not actuate the indicator lamp until the next restart. So I just went ahead and did the restart. So what we're going to do is go back into the ECM check for those trouble codes.

trouble code one more time. No communication. pish posh. Don't lie to me.

Begin communicating. Now It's because I don't have any satellites to link up to in outer space. There we go. No codes present.

Beautimous. I Like that. All right. Well, since we've gone through a few miles of driving, all the data is looking good.

The data that I wish I had pulled up earlier when I was initially diagnosing. this might have made things easier. Uh, I think we're in good shape here. I'm going to go ahead and U-turn this, swing this thing back into the shop.

We're going to shut her down. I'll probably go ahead and recheck it in the morning. do one more test drive just to make sure that we don't get any weird, weird trouble code issues or weird, uh, valve timing variations during a cold start. But other than that, I think we pretty much got this thing under control and the problem has been solved simply by changing out sensor.

Uh, Additionally, at 70 something Thousand Miles I Really, don't think that this thing's gonna have a worn out timing chain I mean anything's possible, but it seems to be somewhat unlikely. So I do believe that we have gone in the right direction and that should be sufficient for now. So that being said, I'm going to go ahead and focus on driving in the rain and close this video out right now. I Will do such things as always by thanking all of you guys and gals for watching this video.

Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. Please feel free to read in the comment section down below about throwing parts of cars. Uh, it's okay. I'm a big kid I can take it, but sometimes and the point of the video was to show that on occasion, that's actually the most cost effective way to go about troubleshooting something that we don't have to start tearing engines apart just to measure things that might not be wrong with.

So anyway, before I start rambling on about some crazy, nonsensical tangent again, and as always, thank you guys for watching And most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later in the video in a Nissan end of transmission Foreign. we've got to make a break for it. It's getting pretty nasty out there. Let me gather the goods and we're gonna run for it.

Ah, here we go. Oh no. I Left the lights on? Okay, run see you later Nissan.