Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! We are starting off this afternoon with a I think it's like a 2016 Toyota Highlander believe it's got the 35 in it. Let me go check the sticker real quick, make sure the year is accurate Dave Had started working on this car earlier and I'm going to I'm going to take over a little bit and do a little bit of diag work on it. Uh my customer walked in and they said they want me to put some. looks like it's a 2012 yeah 2012 Highlander See what? our mileage is real quick like here on this unit 2012 1 15,36 mil on the odometer.

Customer had stated trouble code p0014 and that they wanted the spark plugs and the valve cover gaskets replaced and something about a um uh the cam shaft actuator solenoids. Now this engine has four solenoids, there's two per valve cover cover and what those will do is they will send oil pressure to the cam shaft actuator sprockets and what that we'll do is change the uh variable valve timing. uh as per the command of the ECM let's go ahead and pull this unit up real quick. So my guy had said we had a p0014 and I'm looking at a p0012 and a p0025.

Both of them say cam shaft position a over bank one and Bank two so that means that the VVT system is running and it's not going Advanced when commanded if that makes any sense. So they had uh I I kind of feel like we did a Google Diagnostic and I got the codes out of it and they said change the solenoids. um I'm not just going to change the solenoids cuz I Don't think that this thing has a solenoid failure on both Banks simultaneously. it probably has an issue with whatever system the oil system that's uh, driving both of those cam shaft uh uh, actuator solenoids.

Now we can see it's sort of been taken apart already a little bit. We've got the engine cover off, we have the airbox off of it. The reason that the airbox is off is when Dave pulled this in he smelled like a raw fuel smell and upon closer inspection, we had found that fuel has been leaking on top of the transmission over here and it appears to have been leaking from this fuel line right here. So we've got the hard line running back to the tank and then this soft line goes from the hard line over and under, around and through.

just like tying your shoes over to the fuel rails. uh, where the port is. The port happens to be located underneath of uh, the throttle body assembly here, but we can trace this back and feel where it goes and it connects like right up under here somewhere. Anyway, we had found that this o-ring inside of this fitting uh has been damaged and and was leaking a little bit.

Let me get a light. Yeah, let's add some additional illuminaries in here and if we look down way right around at the 2:00 position, we can see there's a little Nick that's been taken out of that little seal business right inside of there and that was causing that fitting to leak fuel. Um, that's not what they brought it in for. like I Said Customers said, change the valve cover gaskets and we're not seeing anything wrong with this valve cover system here.

There's there's no leaks anywhere along the perimeter of these units. Uh, I'll have to lift it up and check the backside of the rear cylinder bank for any kind of a leak, but I don't think we're seeing it. Let's uh, let's roll this thing forward and set the rack a little bit and then we'll go up top and see what else we can see. Okie Dos rack is set.

moving up to the black subscribe button. Let's run this unit up in the air and take a look for that leak from the bottom side and the back and and then we will, uh, determine a course of action. from there, see maximum altitude achieved. Let's set her down on the safety locks for safety.

There we go. Okay, so down here on the back side, here's our rear cylinder bank and if we take a look I'm try to point at it. If we take a look right up in this area, that is our valve cover and that's top of the cylinder head and we can see this thing squeaky clean. It is bone dry.

There are no visible oil leaks. so I don't know why we need to do valve covers just yet. Uh, let's see what else. It's looking.

pretty dry down here. Hey, that's a new one. Check This out. Do Not Steal My Catalytic converter.

Call Police. FIA Sun By Sun call police I mean that's I mean that works. I Guess if someone steals your converter and chops it off with a saw off, then they take this and go to return it. Uh I suppose that that's an indicator that they should call the police cuz it's stolen or you just take a little like a Ziz wheel thing and just polish the paint off.

That can work too. Um, what I would prefer to do If you're you're scared of catalytic converter theft. You take a piece of 38 chain and you weld it to the pipe so you weld it on and then wrap it around around your converter and keep welding it spot, weld it in different places, then weld it all the way in the end right here. That way they can't come in with a saw blade and cut this off because they'll have to chop through a bunch of weird angles on a chain and it just WS havoc on the saw blade.

Like The blades are thin and and straight so all those curves and whatnot on that chain, that'll keep you from stealing it. I Mean that's that's one way of doing it. but uh, that's not going to stop someone from stealing it at all. They're they're going to come in and BR and they're going to make off with this converter no problem.

but uh, wrap some chain around it and weld it on. That bad boy is not going anywhere. Uh, Anyway, we're off topic here: I Don't see any reason for valve cover gaskets. Um, let's proceed with diagnosing that uh, trouble code first.

I'd rather do that than start throwing Parts at this thing. So we're going to get her off the lock and let her back down Toyota on her way down. I Mean maybe they want to do spark plugs in it. and because they want to do spark plugs, uh, go ahead and change the gaskets while we're in there.

I Suppose that would be a decent way of doing it, but the gasket labor versus the spark plug labor is a lot different. There is some overlap there, but it's not a not a huge Bunch Let's um, let's pull one of these plugs out real quick like and just take a look at them. I'm going to choose and hopefully we don't break this connector. These Toyota connectors really really like to break when you depress them so we'll push it in and it broke.

Yep, look at that bust right off. it's a Toyota thing. Ironically, the ones in the rear will not break off or normally will not break off. but I broke that one off.

So here let's fetch got a 10 m right to rock and roll. Let's go ahead and pull this unit out. at least then we have got a good Baseline to address what the what our customer wanted cuz they said spark plugs and valve cover gaskets. So I'll at least have some uh, some knowledge of the situation at hand when we got to have that conversation.

and I should still have my spark plug socket hanging out from the Ford that we recently did. If that's the right size, yeah, that's the right size. I Think some of these are like a 14 mm unclick. There we go that's kind of tied in there, not tiger tight but it's a little rough.

There we go come out. spark and plug. come on there we go. Speed range.

There we go. Oh yeah, look at that. that thing's got some Gap to it. These are probably The Originals They are denzo aridium.

that's a that's some serious gap on that plug. Let's get it measured real fast. Let's see, the tool here tells us that these are gapping out 55,000 on this one 56. It's not horrible, but I think spec is like 42 or 44 so these are out of spec a little bit.

um I Don't know if they're original, they might be the OES but they also could have been replaced. Once Upon a Time However, based on the excessive Gap I I could get down with a replacement of these spark plugs, but uh, let's figure out what's going on with that uh, cam timing business. first. now Prudence dictates that since this is an oil pressure driven system, we should at least check and make sure it has oil in it.

If there's no oil, there's nothing to run the system and we're overfilled like a lot. Look at this. let's check this one more time. That's our top fill.

Mark right there. let's just see what we've got. Second Dip: Okay, never mind. Yep, right here.

right there at the top so it's not overfilled. It was overfilled on this side, but not on this side. One more triple check just to make sure our checks are good. Yeah, maybe a little overfilled, but nothing crazy.

Okay I think I know what I'd like to do I'm going to pull off this valve cover right here I Want to check this engine for a bunch of sludge buildup inside the the oil looked pretty good and and we have a issue with both cylinder banks on this so it's not just one. Bank The codes p0025 and p0012 indicate that the same symptom is present on both cylinder Bank on this, so if it was, if it was just a solenoid, I would only expect perhaps just one solenoid to fail, not both, or or all four. Actually, there's four solenoids. Um, one thing thing that I did, uh did notice is my customer had said p14 was the code.

However, I found the 12 and a 25 which is nowhere near a 14. Well, the 12 is, but it's not the same codes that they had told me that it had. So break that off. see that ping, it's another.

I Want to pull this cover off and that one pre-broken We're going to inspect below for sludge and buildup and things of that nature and then uh, I guess we'll make a determination from there. Uh, maybe that's why my guy said replace valve cover gaskets perhaps I'm uh I Missed one of the cliff notes here and the research of the Diag has already been done on this. but I'm lacking some information. so let's pull these wiring harnesses is off and we'll get the perimeter bolts loose.

Pop this cover out of here. Sound like a plan? It sounds like a plan to me. Plan that I will, uh, happily execute here so I can get this car apart. It seems things are very brittle on this.

I've already broken a couple connectors. found some other ones that are already broken as well. Got this hose that feels like it wants to split and not come off. There we go.

Feel like I'm going to break more on this truck than I fix? Probably shouldn't have said that. See here. this harness is very secure. Let's uh, holding on to us.

Oh, ground wire down here. and some fuel injector connectors. We'll pull the connectors off. Come on there we go.

And the ground wire that's held on with a 10 mil bolt. Let's pull that guy off. Hey, we're getting somewhere. that's cool.

Uh. looking left, there is a flashlight falling down, hitting Us in the head. There's a clip for the harness here. another one down there on the alternator.

We're trying to create some slack here in this harness so I can get everything disconnected. Try to pull this thing up in order to, uh, extract the cover that's disconnected. Another ground wire over here? Pull that one off. Okay, and let's see.

since the cover is coming off, we don't need the coils. Let's pull these guys out extracting next one. Come out there. we go.

Next thing to take notice of is this oil delivery pipe right here. See that guy? How It Bolts To that cover with this banjo bolt, there should be a screen in there. Let's go ahead and crack this bolt loose. pull that banjo out and see if there's a screen for oil.

Um, if that screen is clogged up than these solenoids, this one here, that one and the one on the intake side behind it will be starved of oil. Therefore, they cannot get uh uh, oil pressure delivered to the cam phasers. So let's check that first before this cover comes off. I Mean this has to come off to get the cover off anyway.

so we're really not doing anything we don't need to do. we're just checking along the way there that flashlight again. oh that's tight unclick I need to make sure I don't lose these uh Crush washers in here in case I cannot get replacement I'll have to reuse them. can't do that I could if I crushed them more right? So now we're leaking some oil.

Pull this guy out. Oh there's a screen on it and it looks like that screen is free and clear. See that no clogging action on our screen. Fish that? Crush Washer out? Pluck it out with a screwdriver.

Come on, please come out. Got it? Okay, now we just need to hit the perimeter bolts on this cover with this impact and uh, try to get this thing disconnected. Here should be a bunch of 10 ms I think yeah I didn't want to do this just for the sake of doing it I'm I'm doing this to Dnos not to, uh, just do a job or maybe the request was just use Factory Parts cuz they they had said they wanted Toyota components. Okay, that's uh.

half of them. couple more, one over here in the corner, another one hanging out under the harness here. Pull that one off, got it? and the next ones looks like those are of the 12 mm variety. There's one right here.

Two three should be the last of them. Okay, 12 right here. Unclick another one on the corner. It's all the perimeter bolts I Believe.

Looks like we've got just the one right here in the center and we're ready to rock and roll. The center bolts always get you. they're hiding out. Yeah, right there, little sneaky guy.

Okay, so now I'm going to get under this cover somewhere for the pry driver. Just try to peel it away from the cylinder head. He that little thud. it's broken the seal.

Tink that's a new sound, but it's loose. So see what we're looking like in this unit? Looking pretty good. It's not all sludged up or corroded. Yeah, no sludge here.

Okay, okay I've got a clue. I Think I may know the potential issue with this. Do you guys see this little black gasket right here? See that little guy? See how there's a space for it over there on that other cam? Now that's the space on the other cam where the gasket goes. Actually, this is.

and here is that gasket. Let me pry that guy off. taking a closer look at that and I hope you can see the details. This gasket is depressed and flattened.

Very, very smashed. It's not brittle yet, but it's also lost a lot of its elasticity. and there's potential that these gaskets are leaking while under the cover, causing a lock lack of oil pressure from these solenoid valves into the cylinder head. and then it loses pressure going into these actuator phasers.

So perhaps changing out those gaskets may be a good thing after all. I think that's what what? I'm what I'm going to be interested in doing here is replacing these guys cuz that one's really, really not looking that great. and if, uh, if those things leak oil, they're going to mess up valve timing actuation. Okay, look at here.

I Have found another area where there's that flattened gasket. See that little guy right there little oine gasket. That one. that gasket is supposed to seal the cover off against this, uh, this little guy right here.

I'm not sure what this is I think this is the oiling nozzle so that we can spray oil onto the uh, the cam shafts. I Think that's what that's for stands the reason that that's what it's for cuz it's got it's taking oil pressure from this cam cap right here. So I'm assuming pressure is running through the cam and it ends up down here in this, uh, that little Galley or whatever. So I'm assuming that oil comes out through that goes in through that little Port right there and then is dispersed throughout the uh, the top of the head.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that that's what's going on here. You see these little holes in it for oil to come out, so that must just be the oiling rack for uh for the cam shafts here. So I'm thinking I'm going to go ahead and order some Uh valve covers and I need to track down and order this uh, fuel line right here cuz I cannot reing that there's like a a big seal insert inside of that thing and I won't be able to replace that. So I need to order that fuel line and these gaskets and probably some spark plugs, intake manifold, gasket set and then um I guess we'll go from there.

What's really getting me though is this thing never had any external oil leaks and I do believe that this uh, perimeter gasket for this valve cover is the original. If we take a look right right down there, you can see the sealant between the timing cover and the cylinder head. That sealant is looking also like it's very original. So I don't believe this has been removed before.

Yeah, I don't think think it's ever been replaced? Okay, well it will be now. see if it's brittle yet? Yeah, it's still pliable but it is cracking. Look, see all those little cracks starting to form. That does mean that the rubber is compromised.

Okay, and if this rubber's compromised, then this rubber's compromised. That rubber's compromised. And that also means that this rubber is compromised. So that can potentially explain why we have an oiling system or while we have a cam shaft.

Uh Timing System issue. Uh, it does fall back to oiling. That's not exactly what I wanted to see because that means that the condition is going to have to be present on both cylinder heads, which means both of those gaskets have failed out. Um.

but that also potentially explains how the customer had said we had a P14 and I've only found the 12 and a 25. So it's possible that it's happening intermittently, which would make sense with temperature changes and things like that. For example, if it's hotter outside, this aluminum is slightly expanded, these gaskets are expanded and then once engine temperature comes up, all that stuff expands again th creating a better seal. So it's very possible.

Um and I I feel that it's most likely the situation. so we're going to go with that for now. And if uh, if it turns out that there's more going on with it, then um I'll have to address that at a later time. So let's proceed with this assembly: I've got to uh, get some of these components ordered and then um I guess when they show up, we can get this thing reassembled.

So I suppose next up: I need to cover this so it doesn't fill up full of dirt. and uh, we can pull that intake manifold off. Next, the the upper manifold. not the lower.

That's the lower. That's the upper. One day later, All righty folks. I Know I said we were going to pull this uh intake manifold off next.

However, it's the next day and since it's the next day. I've got some gaskets and some components that have been delivered. so I'm going to do this uh, kind of opposite of how I normally would do it. We are going to go ahead and place uh, this valve cover back on with a new gasket and some new seals.

uh at the Uh at the cam caps. uh. Reason being is this is a open engine right now and there's great potential for contaminat like dirt to enter the engine. So we're going to button up this section right here.

first, seal it all up. then after that's done, we'll go ahead and move towards the harder part where I can pull the intake off and we'll get that rear valve cover. Uh yes, I'm going to put spark plugs in it at the same time. But the primary goal here is going to be to get these two little gaskets here and here replaced along with the valve cover perimeter gasket.

So that's an evolution of the plan on my ever evolving non-plan plan. All right. Coming down, zooming in a little close like what we're going to notice. see if you can see that right there, you're notice all that sealant that's hanging out on top of this uh cylinder head right here.

We need to scrape away that old sealant and I've got a scraper right here. It's a carbide tipped scraper specifically for gasket materials. I Think it's an Astro tool? Yeah, Astro 9532 if you can read upside down. I Will look for a Amazon link for these units in case anybody wants one.

I Don't sell them but I often. Uh, find that when I display some tools, folks would like to get one for themselves when they see them in action. There we go. So we scrape that guy away.

These scrapers are pretty powerful. If you get them wrong, you can actually gouge the aluminum aluminium. how do you say it across the pond. You can scratch the aluminums and that would not be good, but we're going to use it to peel away all that old sealant.

Very nice. and there's another section right up here at the top. We need to clean up as well. See it right there.

So what we'll do here is this is actually a real easy job for this scraper. Get rid of that. We're not going to drop it down in the engine. We're going to try real hard to avoid dropping it down in the engine, rather get some more illuminations in there.

Let's pluck away that little piece. Did you guys notice the difference between this side and that side? How the oil exposed side is stained and the non side is? well, it's not stained. I Always found that fascinating. Mildly, There we go.

Scrap: Put that away. There we go. So we have to have sealant in this area because do you guys see, See that little uh, little line right there? That's the separation point between. let's cover up this light.

That's the separation point between the timing cover and the cylinder head. And if we don't have sealant in there, the oil can Wick its way through that little crack and it will leak externally. So now just take this towel. We're going to wipe away all that dirt build up on this ceiling surface here, all the way around the perimeter.

Car it all that nasty that way. When we put the new gasket on, it's got a nice fresh, clean surface to seal from. Gaskets don't seal on dirt very well. There we go.

Wipe all that out of there nice and shiny. Okay, so next need to extract this. uh, this little gasket right down here. That's one of the potential causes of our timing component issue.

Come on out. I need to dig this out without gouging up the uh, the aluminum surface. here. Here we go.

Just pluck that right on out. Can you guys see where is my flang in the way Here It comes? There we go. Yeah, that that's a little bit brittle. Okay, well that one's junk and the one that goes over there has already been extracted.

So my original plan was to, uh, get some like uh, like the Toyota gaskets for this. um, one issue with that though. they're all sold as individual pieces now. I was able to to get the uh what you call it the perimeter gasket but I was not able to acquire these little gaskets right here.

they didn't didn't have any more of them. They're on back order so that kind of shot me in the foot with regards to Toyota gaskets. So I ended up ordering the blue ones. They're still good, but I had to get the master set from Felpro not sponsored.

that's just the only people that had those little gaskets right there. so we're not using the Toyota gaskets on this. I've got to use the Fel Pros uh but they're blue so we know that they're good which is actually the I think the better way to do it cuz we also get some new crush washers for this oil hose right here. So what we're looking for is I need this one which is going to go over there all the way on that side of the head.

then I've got these two blue ones here in the center. so let's go ahead and get this unwrapped and get these guys out. Okay first blue one coming in, set that guy right down in there, then the other. same position out on the back.

There we go. So those are our critical gaskets for sealing the VVT. Let's move on to this other one. it's hanging out right in there.

Let's dig that guy out very carefully. This is a weird shaped gasket too. It's not like an O-ring it. it's got some weird offset according to the new one.

Let me pluck you out. This is very hardened, feels brittle, but it's not cracking yet. There she is. y it's conformed to the shape of its little counter board that it was sitting in.

There's a little lip right here on it. see that and new one coming in. It's uh, it's not blue but it's also not crushed like the one we just pulled out. So let's stick that guy in there.

Got to make sure these are seated very well because we can't have them popping out when I'm trying to set up that uh, perimeter gasket in the valve cover. Okay so now let's go ahead and back her up. We need to get the covers out, flip them over, and then pry out the uh spark plug tube seals next. Okay, over on the bench here you can see our spark plug tubes are PED in the valve cover itself and you see these little lip things right here.

Those are going to capture those tubes. so all we need to do is take some needle noses and bend these little tabs back and it'll let us drive these tubes out from the valve cover. Then we can or tube seals rather then we can install the new ones so we just bend this stuff right out of the way. nice and easy.

Like there we go. Some of these you just have to break them off or even cut them off. But this part particular design allows me to, uh, just bend them so we'll flip this over, take a little Mallet and a screwdriver and drive these guys out through the bottom of the hole there. Well how about a pry driver? We'll use a pry driver which is a pry bar and the mall.

Yep, those are falling apart. Yeah. I Hit it with the Chisel and it just disintegrated. That's cool.

There we go. Pop out. yeah, see how it's coming apart right there. Very brittle.

Noo. is it good? Th is Chisa. These are popping out very easily. Sometimes you really got to got to bash on them.

Oh, they came apart. Look, they're separated. Idea: I Can pluck them out with a curvy, angular pry bar? This might, uh, this might do it. It might not.

No, not going to work. Can't really get a bite on the thing. Oh never mind, got it? My confidence was was lacking a little bit on that one. Come on.

And then this one said yeah, hold my beer. Seriously, who goes there? there's Intruders Intruder Alert Intruder Alert Intruder alert Intruder Alert Shut up Yeah. Screwed the pooch on that one didn't I Oh, it's a super stuck I'll just chisel it away. Can't be stuck if it's in multiple pieces, right? Thank you.

Let's try a sharper driver here. There we go. Got it? She's out. That was easy.

Let's give it a quick wipe to remove any additional debris that I left over in there little pieces of plastic and chunks of rubbish. Rubbish Americans Don't say rubbish. it's an English word. Isn't it The Brits Use rubbish? Here we go.

Nice and shiny. Okay, new tube seals coming in. Now these go on. One Direction if we put them in.

like. So when we go to flip this over to insert it over the spark plug tubes, it will not go because this is tapered Inward and this is not so. these are directional meaning they cannot go this way. They must go this way.

That way this thing can slide over the uh spark plug tubes with these and what I'll do is just drive that in with a socket here. Couple: Hammer Taps here with the Mallet Hammer HS that one's in next one upside down. Next one here we go. Hammer Time numeral Trace Very nice.

Ready to rock and roll. So now let's take our little tabs. put those back where they where we found them. There you're scratching it details that only the next guy will see.

If there is a next guy, there's some de Bris hanging out last one bend the tabs. That bothers me when they're Twisted see that there Now they're untwisted good. Ready to rock. That's beamus.

So now I just need to get our perimeter gasket in place here and then this cover is ready to go back in position. considering how there is is probably some contaminants in here that I didn't see, we're going to blow this out with the air gun real quick. I'm deoiling the groove that way when the gask gets in there, it doesn't want to fall out. Tips and tricks, You know what I mean Okay, so we're clean.

I'm confident that there's no plastic dirt in here. Uh. reviewing the actuator solenoids, we can see that there's no sludge built up. We saw the screen when it came out earlier.

That screen was free and clear. So we're now good to get the perimeter gasket around this unit and then we'll work on, uh, reinstalling this thing here. I Don't think this is the right gasket. They're both a different partner.

so I'm assuming that they are different and I'm hoping my assumptions do not make an assumer out of me. That would not be cool. I Think we're going okay. this appears to be correct.

Getting a little tight in this corner, you that give it a tug here. That's why you have to go with what you know. Follow the obvious bends that are in, uh, in the component. Got to come up with some slack here.

It's a little tight. We'll just kind of pet the thing to relieve the tension I Think that's good. Okay, re gasket complete. Let's go get some sealant on uh, that timing cover and then we can get this thing back in position.

Okay, circumnavigating our engine compartment here, let's get back in position and we'll get that cover installed sealant coming in. It's just some regular RTV We need a little dab of it right there on uh, on the cylinder head. Nothing crazy. It's coming out all crazy.

It's too much and a little bit more right up here. not on the cam gear. Ah I got it on the Chain little dab right right there there. That'll do it.

Okay, let's get the cover set up and we'll Bolt the unit down. I Guess it's good to do the front side first. That way we can practice because the rear side is the the super duper hard side. We're going to hold this, uh, hold this harness up some.

I'm going to sneak this guy in. Easier said than done. I Think pull this cap off for some more clearances un click. Okay coming in, that's a tight squeeze here.

I'm afraid to slide this cuz if I slide this cover over anything, it can pull the gasket out from the groove. I'm going to run my fingers around it just to make sure it's all still seated. I Can feel it everywhere once it's together. We can also go around it with a mirror and visually make sure that it's uh, in position like it should be.

I Think we're in good shape here. Okay, so now we need to get these spark plug tube seals over the tubes and that's not as easy as you'd think cuz they can roll over on themselves and then they don't want to go push down some I know? where's my pocket driver? I'll take a little screwdriver and just encourage that rubber to slide down over that tube. See how we can fully see that spark plug tube? That's what we're looking for. We'll do the same thing over here.

on the other two. we just kind of have to push it over. Do not push really hard and poke a hole through those seels cuz that will 1,000% ruin them if you poke a hole in, just kind of nudge it on over There we go nice and gentle like and then same thing on the one here on the end right there. just kind of slide that down.

This part is super critical. If it's not done properly, you might not even be able to get the valve cover to bolt down fully and it will leak everywhere There we go. Give that a push feels like receded. Back it up some.

Yep. Fully seated. Good to go. So let's get some of the Fasteners back in.

We'll start off with the 12s those were the larger units and then uh, we'll run through and get all the 10 afterwards. That's our center bolt one. get that one started and perimeter bolts coming in. one on the end over here.

good up there. in the right front corner, there's that one there. What else am I missing one in the back right down yonder. I Think there's going to be one.

Oh I'm running out of Fasteners here. Got one coming down right down that hole under the wiring harness. That one goes there. They're all the same size.

They're all. They're all 10 mil headed M8s, they M8s or M6s I think they're M8s metric and we put the oil cap back on for now as well. Okay, let's come through with the 1 quarin impact and put a little bit of torque on these units. Draw the bolts down some.

We going to make sure all the pins get seated. There's dowel alignment pins on this one here and one over there. Got to make sure those pins are bottomed out. Feels good.

Okay, let's get the 12 mil B bolts I Try to say nuts and bolts at the same time. Belts: Let's get 12. Ms Good straggler in the back. It's hiding out down there behind that solenoid.

Who said that? I Can't say selenoid. By the way, it's solenoid. not selenoid. I Guess when I say it, people think I say selenoid, it's solenoid.

or I don't know, how do you guys say it. Solenoid solenoid noid? Let me know. Okay, so these are relatively, uh, snug down. We're just going to finish them off by hand.

apply some manual torques here cuz I can feel this better than then I can feel the impacts that's our center bolt. Pick a little bit more on that one. Pckage Okay, feeling good? Let's switch it out to the 12 and get those larger. Fasteners it's a flashlight, not a Fastener but it tried that one and last one right here in the corner kick.

Good to go. Okay, let's dig those uh spark plugs out. get those swapped with the new units, then we can move on to the back side. So we had already pull out one plug I think it was the one on the end.

Let's get rid of these. uh, remaining two in here. Unclick. That's a little rough, little gritty on the threads I Bet there's some carbon build up on the threads that are protruding into the combustion chamber.

Yeah, see that once we cut it all the way going smoother. Smooth Operator Let's see how this plug looks. What did that last one? Gap out at is it like 54 thou? Something like that? Let's see how this one looks Well, visually. So that's the first one we pulled out.

that's uh, 56,000 and then this one that we pulled out. this one gaps at 40 thou. But look at here, it appears that this one, the first one we removed, has suffered much more erosion than this one over here. Can you guys see that right there? Yeah, the huge gap on that one.

It looks like piece of the anode is worn away or broken off and missing. So this one's not gapped, right? This one was. We're putting new ones in it. Anyway, that's two removed.

Let's get the third one out of here. A unclick? Yeah. Also kind of rough. Here we go: I'm out.

Oh I got a text message I wonder who it is then this plug where we gapped at uh, 56,000 Okay, okay so we extracted some denzo plugs and I'm going to install some NGK Aridium. Uh, all of them are aridium but these 1,000% meet the specs and I like ngks so we're going to go with these. Gap is at 43 thou. Next one, Gap is 43 thou.

These come preg gapped and this one 43.6 sty. I'll live with that, not even going to try to recap it. Nope. So let's get these guys down in their hole.

Then we can get the harness. Actually no no no, we're not going to button up this harness because I may need to move it out of the way to get that rear cover off me thinks become clicked all right bottomed out. Crush Washer is crushing kicks Yeah the Crush Washer is this little guy right here. Little washer on the end of it so that one's in one down to go.

On this side, my wrench keeps spinning until it stops and that's how I get through my day. Weird noises. Clicks Okay, that one's in plug number three down in its home. We don't drop them down in there.

we just set them down. If you drop them, it can land on the electrode and bend it and close the gap. That would not be okay. Click Very good.

Okay, that thing is in position or those things that's all set. Uh I suppose we can drop the coils down in there cuz I don't need to have them on the on the wiper cow and uh, it's just extra parts that I won't have piled up over here. so let's get that. Uh, let's get the coils in next.

Okay, some dialectric coming in. here's our coils and I might be on the last couple of squirts for this nozzle here. I Actually uh I mentioned that that I was running out of this canister of this dialectric. I've had this can for like 18 months I Mentioned the other day I was running out.

Somebody bought me a new can and sent it to me. so thank you for my replacement can of CRC dialectric lubricant. I'm not using it on this video though. sorry you got to wait till till later.

but I do have it and thank you I appreciate uh shop supplies as gifts especially brake clean cuz then I can feel free to waste it without feeling bad. for entertainment purposes only, of course this is an entertainment Channel not a how-to channel. Oh like how to lose your Fastener down inside of your engine? Seriously? and it never hits the ground? See if I can't reach down in there and try to find the thing. the panel down here.

oh I feel it, it's under the cross member. Come here I got you I got you ha. Extraction complete. Got it.

That goes in there where it was before I dropped it. Graad that guy down and where's me? gun? Give this thing some uh forward action trigger control. Good to go. Okay, one valve cover is nearly complete.

Let's get the banjo bolt in along with the screen and the replacement. Crush Washers those came in the valve cover kit. Good job Fel Pro You guys like really hooked it up. It was a One-Stop shop for this job that was almost a finger stabbing moment.

Could have gone poorly. Let's pull these guys out of here. don't need them. Oh by the way I didn't mention it.

Um, but when I have valve covers off, especially ones that sat overnight I'll take like a half a quart of oil and I'll rinse the cams off that way if there's any debris up on top of the cams, it gets uh, washed down into the oil pan and then when we're done I'll pull the drain plug out and we'll drain all the oil and do an actual oil change on it. That is my preferred method standard operating procedure. That's how we avoid contaminating engine components. There we go: Click torage Crush Washer AG Click.

Good to go. All right. So we moved over a little bit. Let's uh, let's start getting to work on.

uh, on pulling this, uh, this rear section apart. um, so traditionally in the past I would just kind of reach in under this wiper cow and just dig all this stuff out. I'm I'm actually tempted to pull this wiper cow out this time. that uh, the reason being is this front cover was kind of a bear to align and that other cover is far away and in the back back and angled downward.

and I I don't really have the confidence that I can swap that cover out without uh, potentially causing an issue and having to do it again. So I think for my own sake, I'm going to remove this whole assembly right here. this entire wiper cowl assembly. We're going to pull this off and that's going to give me Bo loads of more hand and Tool access space.

So uh, I can continue this disassembly. So let's get the wiper blades removed. I think that's a 15 mil. Let's get the blades removed and then we'll disassemble this cowl assembly.

Go from there, let's pull these. uh, pull this thing out of here. It goes in with just a series of little plastic Clips which are all pre-broken So anyways, there's our wiper cowl. uh couple 10 mm Fasteners and this whole metal piece right here should be coming free.

Oh oh look. I've got to pull the strut bolts out too. See that? No worries, let's hit that with the gun next. let's hit that with a bigger gun.

Next, bigger gun redo. Much more better. Now we can do this and not worry about the strut because vehicle's sitting on the ground reload. so there's that one, then a few 10 ms and then we can move on Down the Line towards the other side.

So I believe I need to pull the whole wiper arm out because there's bolts under it that need to be accessed well. the wiper transmission. We should call it a transmission I Think that's what the official name is. Looks like it's three bolts.

four bolts. Pull that guy out of there. this one. Okay, so the transmission assembly is now free.

Let's get it disconnected here. There's our connector. Come here you. It's crudded up in there.

Pretty good. We're going to need to. uh, get some leverage assist on this. There we go.

Pull that transmission aside, set that on the wiper arms, and then we'll come back in and finish off the rest of these 10 ms. right here. See those two over here on the side. Check your flanks.

Oh, grab that one. Come here. How about closer. Is there any buddy up close? there's one? There's a 10 on a stud.

Okay, it's getting loose. I Guess the remainders are over here. On the passenger side. there's one drop.

That one recovered there. it is. recovered that one and I've got the two. I think the 14s.

it's only two. I found I Can leave the third one there. Reload the battery is broken. You going see the little thing there.

So I got to I Got to do a tactical reload every now and then. Make sure my electrons have a path to flow. Okay, that's coming out. We need to lose the wiring harness right here.

That guy is, uh, keeping this thing connected to the chassis. little plastic clip down there. Pop that clip up and out there we go. There's a another one.

you can't see it cuz there's a Reservoir in the way that's down there behind that little cap trying to uncp that thing as well. Come here. Clip okay. got that one.

Another one right over here to the left. Push the tab in, squeeze the tabs in with wires that works too. Squeeze and pry. last one over here.

Ring ring. Do you guys hear that? Sounded like horsepowers? So the windshield is plugged in. We need to disconnect the windshield. That's this connector right here.

unplugg PL the window glazing. There we go and it appears that I've got one more that way. one more Unas unplug the windshield. Now the entire cow assembly should be coming free.

Try to get this guy out here. tires extract these Fasteners because I probably have to flip this over to get her out, not wash the paint. don't break the glass and we're good to go. Wiper cow removed now.

I've got some access to our engine. so one thing I always do on this job is I disconnect the throttle body from the intake. uh reason being is there is coolant running through this throttle body and I'd rather not break into the coolant passages is if we don't have to. so I can just disconnect this unit, flop it off to the side and then we never break into the cooling system which is good.

so that's four. Fasteners we'll crack it Loose just kind of lay that off over here. that's nasty. look at that.

Super dirty. So now we simply just kind of go through systematically and find all the uh, find all the hoses here, just pull these off and set everything aside. that one's still disconnected. This one's partially disconnected from wherever it goes, so we can leave that alone.

We need to remove the booster hose from the brake booster. That's a this guy right back over here. Slide that guy right off. I Probably should have unclamped it first, but it came off no problem.

Okay, that's that, that that and that over on the other side there's one connector. looks like it's for some Runners intake runners or something like that. That one doesn't want to come off either. So this connector is looking pretty tight and I I'm trying to disconnect it and I can't seem to depress it.

So I'm going to throw some pliers in here just to push down on the button once that little button's depressed. I'll try. we'll walk it off. There we go.

Disconnected without destruction or destruction. Anyway, that's disconnected I Think next. I Just need to find the brackets we're going to find. There's there's brackets back here that provide some structural rigidity to uh, the back side of this unit.

and I've got to find those brackets and disconnect them and there. Yeah, I can feel one right back here. there's a 12 mil. Fastener there should be one more bracket on the other side.

Yeah, that's my. least Favorite part is UN bracketing. Yeah, there's one right there. See that bracket right there? That's one of the, uh, the affected units.

So let me get a ratchet. I'll reach back there, get those guys off, and then we can unbolt the front bolts here for this manifold. Let's see reaching back around I can't see anything I think that's it Yep looks like there's one of them I'll pull this bolt out and I got to reach around a little deeper and get the back one. I Know you guys can't see back there.

but soon as I get this intake out of the way it's going to, it'll change everything for us all, right? Bear with me. This part might be kind of not fun cuz I can't I can't get my hand back there I'm glad I took the cowl off. There's a bracket on this side and I think I can get it Loose Yeah, Crack loose I hope I've got the right bolt. There's a couple things going on back here and I'm trying to reach under this primary harness as it wraps around in the back by the intake.

I can barely I can barely get my extremities in there. remove engine so I've got the Oh I just dropped my socket. That's fun anyway. I think I've got that Fastener loose enough to get it to come out with my fingers here since I just dropped my socket.

Yeah, not fun. The socket's sitting on top of the valve cover somewhere back there. It didn't fall I just dropped it. Ah I got it.

I Feel it. Yeah, it's stuck on something. It's a 12 mil deep. well.

Oh, I'm dropping it again. Hang on. Bear with me. As soon as I recover my tools, we can go back to work a two-handed operation.

If one finger is not enough, stick two in there. Got it? Okay, so I'm trying to fit that socket back on the Fastener again and it's kind of turning. Yeah, that's a tight squeeze. It turned and then it stopped.

carpal tunnel setting in. Okay, we're turning again, but not not much. I can't I can't get anything done with thiso here. We'll use a smaller quarter inch device here that should give me.

and there goes that socket. Okay, so my one socket's still on the ground I went and uh, grabbed another one one and now I'm just kind of working that bolt back there just a little bit. It's pointed away and down. so I've got to reach like around this intake to just get a hold of the well.

I got it? I got the nut too nut or the bolt fell out. There's my replacement socket. the other one is still down there anyway. I Got both of the brackets on this intake removed.

So now we can crack loose these hex bolts up here. and these 10 ms that, uh, hold this manifold to the lower manifold. that just what's next on the things that are next, we'll get the 10 mm nuts first. There's one on the edge and then another right over here.

Got it? Okay, so now let's grab our wrench and these are hex bolts. but I'm going to stick a Torx bit in there I'm one of those guys that uses Torx on hex's or Allen Keys rather, unclick that one loose. Not going to hit these with a power tool first because if it's going to strip I Uh, do not want to make it strip with a power tool and it's actually potentially likely to strip cuz I've kind of worn this socket out something fierce. See all the wear on the end of it.

need to get that thing. uh, warranteed warranty replacement. So anyway, let's spin. Uh, let's spin these guys out.

next. four of them come out. Numeral Do Last one got it. So now I believe our manifold should be coming free unless I missed a Fener somewhere.

Nope, just a hose. It's the brake booster hose hanging onto that little bracket over there. Ding. You hear that? Funny noises.

Okay, wow. all that, uh, all that space we created and there still seems to be no space here. That's that's fun. See what? I meant There's like no way we were going to get this cover up and out with that cow in the way.

Not going to happen. Impossible. Not possible. I Mean, not impossible.

but it's possibly improbable. Here we go. Words: Okay, let's get the bracket. Oh, that's the bracket that was giving me all that fuss.

You see that stupid thing right there? Anyway, let's get this bracket disconnected which encompasses the wiring harness or secures the harness. rather. I'm going to pull off this bracket right here that's attached again to the harness, another that one there. and let's pull this little guy off of that stud.

another thing that's attached to the harness. Or maybe the harness is attached to everything instead of everything being attached to the harness. like these fuel injector connectors. There we go.

Nice, nice and easy. They're coming right out. That's beautiful. Another attachment position here.

Get under it, twist. We rock it up. Okay, that gu free and clear. PCV Hose I'll just flop that off to the side.

There go some pliers. So I'm going to have to start pulling apart. They're pulling this wiring harness back away from this head as much as possible. So I think I'm gonna try to pull it up and over.

I Want to get uh, this bracket out of the way right here. unclick disconnect that guy. So I think I can just pry this thing kind of up and back here. I'm going to need to disconnect all of the coil wires that are in there.

uh I Don't know if you all can see. let's try to get in a little bit closer. here. there's the coil connector.

There's one, two, three, and four plus. uh, whatever that connector is. If I can get these guys loose. I think I can just pull this harness up and back and out of the way.

I Think let's get those guys disconnected and see what happens. This might be a Toyota but this this shop right here is no joke. It's a slightly difficult to accomplish here. The real goal is going to be to get get these connectors off without breaking them.

I Managed to break the ones on the front side just by looking at them. Let's see if we can't. uh, avoid breaking these rear ones I said when I broke off the front one that the rear ones the rear ones are going to break off too. Yeah, that's what I said I said we're going to break off the rear ones also which uh, I just made good on my word.

So that one's broke no matter. That's what they do like. that's just what they do. There's no avoiding it.

No, it's not my job to replace that. No, it's not cost effective to replace six connectors. There's a another way to secure these when they do break because we can clearly see that. that's exactly what they do.

The plastic becomes brittle and then as soon as you manipulate it, manipulate it words, it's just ping and the thing flies off in into uh, the unknown. So nothing I can do about it. Yep, see, broke that one already. didn't even didn't even pry it off yet and it's broken.

come out. Oh, it's only broken a little bit I have to break it more to get it to come off. That's cute stupid connector come off I am disliking the difficulty of this particular job I Did the same job on a hybrid once not long ago and it seemed to have gone a little easier than how this one's going. Not sure what my hangup is on this one, but it's there there now.

I Finished breaking that connector off. Good. Yeah, it's the retaining clip section that breaks. Yeah, the connector is still good, but the part that retains it to the coil is what we end up losing, which is which is horable.

Anyways, I think that's uh all. but maybe this one back here. one or two more. that one probably won't break.

It should just come right out of there I Said probably. we'll see. push to release wiggle and let's try this one. Some curvy, angular needle noses.

Those should do it. Yep, didn't break that one. Cool. So yeah, little bit of space is happening.

Pull that guy back. It's good. Give me that flashlight, all right. So that part was incredibly boring, but I'm pretty sure we've got enough space created here with this harness pulled up where I can get to the rest of our components down there and get everybody pulled apart.

So what's going to be next is this bracket. So I get to this coil and then this coil and then that coil. and then we'll break out the perimeter bolts and get this cover extracted and before we get too crazy with our our risky Behavior here let's put a uh, put a towel over those intake. Runners Right there there we go.

Good, all right. So we're going to need a 17 mm again in order to get the banjo bolt off for that uh VVT oil supply hose. That one is located on the front of this valve cover. see that right down there? go and crack this unit loose.

They're very, very torqued to a high torque specification in a in a low clearance environment as well. You're going to need the flamy ratchet a little shorty. uh uh, these ones this drawer 17. That's what I want.

That's what I want. So what we'll do is take our finger ratchet here little ratcheting cros foot mechanism, flip it around for the reverse action Walk It Out See how that bolt has a hole in the middle of it? That little hole right there? that is. So when oil comes in through this hose and it reaches that manifold or that fitting, rather, it can flow into the center of this bolt and then flow through the bolt. so it's effectively a a bolt that can pass fluid.

I Don't know why they call them banjo fittings, but that's the name of it all. right now. this one. The screen did not come out.

the screen is still it's in there somewhere. so we need to take a look at that once we get this cover removed. So we'll take this guy, set that over on the bench so it doesn't go anywhere. And now we can get after these perimeter bolts around this cover assembly.

All right. Reaching in, we got the 12 mil swivel on the electronic gun here. electron ratchet rather wordss pull this bracket off. This is one of the support brackets that goes to the intake manifold.

That one had to go since we have the 12 out. Let's get those uh, larger 12 Mil Fasteners that are somewhere on this cover I know they're here cuz the other cover had 12s also. So it stands. The reason that this one should have twelves on it too, right? I don't see any? Well I can't see anything I don't feel it? Well, maybe there are none.

Let's uh, let's just pull the 10 ms off and go from there. we'll pull out the coils. That's two of them. Third one, let's pull these uh coil packs on out which they don't Uh, they don't wish to capitulate here.

We pry them out of there trim tool in action. There we go. That was out. That's two.

That's number three right there. Hey, look. I found a piece of the connector. don't need that.

Okay, the next series of fast inter ah, there's one of the TW right in front of me. I See you. Let's get the 10 though. we're already committed to doing it this way.

No need to change up the non-plan plan again, right? That's in the way. and I don't want it here right now cuz there's Bol behind it 12 mm bolt. Okay on the other one. How about this one back here.

Is that a 10? Can't see it? can't see it I can barely feel it? Put it back there. all right up front. Three more right in our face faces and a fourth one way far away. There's another ground cable over there.

also. let's get that little ground out. Okay, that should be I think there's another one in the back I might need to bust out some extensions to be a to reach these other assassin here. Can't even see what I'm doing I'm terrible cameraman Here we go.

now. The only ones that are left are the ones that I can't see or reach. Convenient okay feeling along the edge. There's one right here, a little bit further over and then that one's out.

that one's out I think the remaining Fasteners that I have are of the 12 mm variety. Mosquito I got him. He was like right right here. Didn't see that coming did you mosquito you filthy little vampire evil creature.

Okay, that's not going to fit there, but it might fit over here on the other side. Yeah, back over there. Yeah, that's one of the long ones. Should be a the one I already said won't fit one in the back back there.

Okay, need to change out my socket. Okay, trying again. Let's get that one reased. You guys can't see, still can't see.

but hey, you know what? I can't see either. So since I can't see and you can't see, none of us can see. Now we see, we see that we don't see I think that's all I might have one more back here in the center. Maybe not.

No, maybe I've got them all. Let's uh, let's try to crack this unit loose and see what happens. See there I got. oh oh you know what? there's the center bolt I forgot there's that 10 in the middle which I can't see.

but I think it's right right here. Yeah, you valve cover breaking Fastener you okay that one's up and out and loose. Now we pry. Okay, it came up, came up some more but it feels like there's something hanging on to it.

Did I miss a Fastener somewhere I don't feel one. It might just be a dowel pin like an alignment dowel hanging on to it. Let's keep going here and see what happens. I'm either going to break it or it's going to come out H I Don't think there's any more bolts back there.

It's got to be the uh, the dowel alignment pin somewhere. Yeah, there's no more bolts here. Well, bigger pry bar. You can always go at it with a bigger pry bar.

that should. That'll do it right. Just pry it until it uh does what I want or we can strategically pry bar it, applying leverage in the proper locations. There's a dowel pin right here.

See that little little boss sticking out? That's where the dowel is in the back I Don't feel any other Fasteners here I need to get right inside of there? Yeah, see it right there. It's starting to work its way up. You guys see, where's this thing blocking you I think you can see? Let's keep doing this. the more I wiggle the more it wants to to come up.

Don't make a liar out of me, you stupid thing. Come out of there I feel like there something holding it down, but I know there's not. Okay, well try to get under that little Gap right here with this other screwdriver. pry right at the Gap or make some leverage here with two tools.

we can try that. Oh, come on. Nope. Yeah, let's get in there with this mirror.

Yeah, that's it right there there. That's there's a doel pin right there in that boss and that's what's hanging on to it. If I go around the perimeter here I don't see any other Fasteners securing this so it's just that little pin hanging on to us All right? Uhoh I hear the uh, the countertop guys next door going to work and that drives me absolutely outside of my head when I'm trying to work. so I'm hoping I can get this done with a quickness.

so I don't have to or so you guys rather don't have to listen to that grinding action I Know, Watch this. We'll stick this thing in on screwdriver, hammer that down under the cover. Then we can use leverage To help pry this down and then pop that up like a seesaw. I Have an idea what I'll do is I'll hold this screwdriver in, take a mallet, and then tap down over here and it should should want to kind of seesaw this thing to help pry that up maybe or that didn't work there.

There we go. I Hate doing things like that I Do not like to hammer things in in such a manner. You get used to doing that and you'll end up doing it in a place where you shouldn't be doing it. Break some stuff.

Well anyway, cover is coming free. All right. Let's back her on up here. I think I got enough space made up to uh to get this guy out of here I just heard something fall down but at least to hit the floor.

Yeah! I think I've uh, my gloves also had enough. Anyway, here's our cover. We got it. Let's uh.

let's give her a flip here. Inspect the condition of all these gaskets in there. These are the ones in question. These guys right there.

Yeah, not the greatest. It's a little bit brittle. Okay, that one's no good and the other one's still on top. The head over there.

perimeter gasket still in place here. you guys can't see dang thing thing. Let me let me get you in a little closer here. Okay, that's our other potentially affected gasket chain.

Looks good. Phasers look good. There's our perimeter gasket. You see, our cams are looking good Right on.

Okay, so let's get this thing aside. We need to wrong way. Let's go over here to this way. Nope, that bench is full.

wrong way. Ah, where do I go over here? There we go. We'll work on this over here. However, according to my timekeeping device: Over Yonder uh, it is nearly time to go home.

And I do have a rule in life where: I I do not work late, just scoot the glove off I don't uh I don't stay late just to get a little bit more progress done. Uh I Tried that once upon a time and I found it only leads to burnout. so it's 5:00 The rules say we are done at 5: meaning I am done today and that means we are done with this video. Besides, this video is probably over at least an hour and some change long.

So I'm definitely going to have to make this a two-parter So so uh, That being said, guys, we're going to have to tune in on the second cylinder Bank on this, uh, vehicle tomorrow. Uh, let me know what you think about this progress so far as we go along, especially this wiring harness situation that Toyota decided to make. this would be a lot easier with a connector right here. just just a connector.

Just let me disconnect it and then we're good. but no, can't do that. But anyway, let me know what you think about this in the comment section. uh, down below, let me know if you think that these gaskets are going to fix this Vbt problem VVT problem.

Also, the comment section down below, do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in video in the Toyota in 3.5 L in a day and a transmission.