Working on a Jeep Wrangler folks. not sure what year we'll look when we set it down. Uh, the guy was DIY and did his Brak Seeing that his axle seals were leaking and some of the parking brake shoes had fallen apart. Uh, because the vacuum plates red out the pins pulled through.

A little more of a job than he wanted to do. So he hired us to do the uh, axle seals and then the new park and brake assembly. So let's get after. get his caliper peeled off here.

It didn't bring a screwdriver over. We'll see if we can't just peel that loose. Guess we can just stick it over here on the axle. it's about 18.

Get the bracket peeled off here. Guess he just did the brakes. So Whoa man down. Oh well, that was easy.

There's no parking breake shoes in it. So um, yeah. looks like everything came apart inside the drum here at some point and was, uh, really grinding it up. So maybe he must have tore it back apart and took all the junk out of it.

Maybe that's what he told me. Not real sure. Oh, the clips already pushed back on this one. We just going to unplug the speed sensor here.

while we were right here, he asked me to put new speed sensors in it also. So I have those all right? So we'll just leave that unplugged and then get out the old. Panther P Go a little. Spritz on these nuts.

we'll do both sides and there bust. T Your classic 18 mm. Again, start getting these cracked loose and you got to give these things a handy all the way to the end. They're a lock nut and they come off pretty hard and they're so tight to the axle you can't get a dang ratchet wrench on them.

So I'm just going to take and, um, spin these off. This one's not spinning off the whole stud's turning so that's not good. Good. same thing with that one.

Jeez, What are the odds of that? You got to be kidding me. This one's spinning the whole stud too. What the frig man. And then somebody has changed this one so it's no longer than 18 mm.

Okay, so somebody's been here medling and things they all not be medling in. Um, let me just get the torch. Um, no, we can't do that. We can't torch.

Head off those cuz we need to save those frak. So like I say the problem is all of these studs right here. This stud's turning, the stud's turning, they're all turning and they're part of this bearing retainer. So this is something that we need to save.

So uh, so so so yeah. let's clean this up a little bit. We'll put a little booger weld on each one and then we'll take and back the nuts off. Somebody's obviously been here like I say cuz that nut's a different size.

So I'm not really sure what, uh, what happened here, but let's get a little wire brush we get in here. We'll clean this up. We get a little tackle weld on each one and then we'll start taking it apart. All right time to break out the brick clean.

This should be good enough to get a little weld on there. We'll blow it all out and before you go all chemist on me, it's nonchlorinated. We are going to use the welder and it's going to create some UV light, but rest assured we're not going to create any Fen gas so we should be okay. It's nice and dry all right.

See if this works now? Might have to check for C so see if we get a new bearing plate for it. All right, that's holding it. Once we get the axle out and out of the way, we can clean it up so we can actually put a better tackle weld on it. It's pretty pretty Rusty and greasy and crap, but we just need something just enough to hold these studs still while we turn out the nuts here on the back side.

So I'm going to finish taking these off and then we'll knock the axle out of it and see what we've got to play with here. I'll see if by some slim chance Chrysler has one of these I doubt they do, but if they do, we might just get a new one. So well things just got sucky so a couple of the welds didn't didn't hold. They're not tacked on real good.

so I had to double double tap them. Uh, this one back here. this is that nut that somebody's already changed. it's a different size I pushed on it for all I've got which ain't much uh, but it won't come loose.

so I don't know if they've just, you know, cross treaded it on there or what, but it broke the weld again. So I rewelded it but this time I'm going to heat the N see if we can't get it to crack loose. figure out what happened. just give her some heat here.

We'll see if we can't get her to the bust loose. Minor fire. There we go. I Was really hoping it wasn't cross shredded because I cannot get this bearing plate for a few days.

Well, about 4 days to be exact. So all right, must have just been rusted in place cuz like I said I broke the weld trying to get it loose and oh, it's super tight I'm going to slowly work it off. You'll probably get a different wrench if you're thinking about using a ratchet wrench and you've heated up the bolt. That's the only thing I find that will almost instantly break a ratchet wrench is heat.

They don't like heat. Uh, at least the ratcheting mechanism doesn't. Probably to be more specific I think the little spring in there doesn't cuz anytime I've used a ratchet wrench on a nut that I've heated. The wrench always breaks.

Okay, she's starting to get snug again. I'm going to heat it one more time. This should be a Britty Spear song. He Me Baby One More Time Oh looks lovely.

Oh I know you. Come on dude. freck. Okay, that's pretty loose I should have done about a half an hour ago.

Let's get the stupid cable out of my way. So I'm going to grab a hold of cable assum he didn't have any. but no broken, right? No. I'm all set.

KY Okay, get that cable out of our way and now we can go all the way. Oh, it would help if I could feel my fingers. Okay, now we should be good. We've got all those nuts off cables off, speed sensor is disconnected.

Let's knock this axle out of here. We'll stick the old slide hammer on here. Sometimes you can just tap them out, but I find that the bearing gets stuck, have a little rust in the end of the axle, and the bearing has a tendency to get stuck. but usually you don't have to whack on too hard.

Yeah, close enough. Who didn't have the bucket ready? This guy didn't So now we've got a bit of a mess. Take this thing out of our way. Axle out.

Oh price, you find a bucket. Get yourself a bucket. Stick that down there. Take a knock this bearing, race out while we're right here.

If you can without a puller, they usually pop out relatively easy. Sometimes there's a little rust Ridge Out here that comes a bit of a pain. Oh, in and out of the bucket. Classtic move.

Got a cap here. We'll just stick there for just a moment. We've still got to get this backing plate off here. We're going to Rattle it with the air hammer.

Just going to stick that there to keep some junk from going in the axle tube if we can. Oh man w I don't go chucking this in the trash. You're going to need the screw out of the speed sensor. If you can get it, reuse your speed sensor if you are.

These speed sensors are relatively inexpensive. The one on the other side was sheared clean off. This one is still usable and free tip for you. You're going to sit here.

You're going to grab this sucker by the back and you're going to wiggle until it just snaps off. I've learned on these Chers all I have got. This is the real tip right here. When this thing still up in the car, hit that sucker real fast with a hammer and it will come loose every single time and then you can just tap it through.

I Learned that one day in a fit of rage because I was upset that I didn't buy speed sensors when I was doing one of these. Now this style here usually does come loose because it's the four ribber. They don't have a lot of surface area to grab onto. But as I was mentioning one day in a fit of rage working on a Chrysler forgot to buy speed sensors I'm like son of a mother crap.

Hit it with a hammer being popped right out. worked like a charm. Used the trick ever since. So what we need to do now folks.

We need to get the lock collar off here. We need to get the bearing off here. That way we can get the seal off and ultimately get our plate off here and fix all of this. Really wish I could get one of those.

Uh, but we're going to work with what we have. Uh, lots of different ways to do this. I do it with a torch. just give it a little whisper.

you just got to leave the tension from it or pressure you choose. Now we'll give it a little punch. Oh, fell just like so. didn't even Nick the axle.

So in case you're wondering, you just got to you. got to control yourself man. Then let that baby come on down. Just like the price is right.

come on down, there's that now. Step two, Step two. We got to get it all smoked up in here. The seals.

boy they stink. Put on our dirt glasses. Hey man, where am I There you are? We're going to Nick the cage off. Oh it stinks.

Oh that's toxic I don't know what it is, but it ain't good. Oh got my B there. Now we got to cut the race off just like you do the locker. I think she's thin enough I could be wrong.

fire. Think this st's going to kill me. man. yeeha mother almost got me.

So there's that. There's our axle clean and green. No scars, no fuss, no mus, no mus, no fuss got girl, you stink. Damn.

I'm going to clean off the bird turd uh, where the welder got on there. going to clean this up a little better and we're going to put a couple of nice TS on each one now that we got it off where we can actually do something with it. so I'll spend a few minutes doing that and then I Often times throw these in the sand blaster and we'll sand blast off the junk there and then I'll clean the axle off in the parts washer. Make sure the area here where the uh seal rides isn't all groovy.

your one groovy shaft baby actually looks good and then we can press on the new bearing and collar. Now when I do these? I Do buy the seals OEM I Always get the OEM seals aftermarkets I don't know. they can be a little sketch uh bearing though. we'll get aftermarket.

We got your classic Napper SKF Comes with a lot collar. They're about 1/4 the cost of an Oem. This OEM bearing is like 140 bucks. some ridiculous figure.

I think these Napper ones are like 40 or so. Probably all my math statistics are way off. but I'm going to get cleaning I'm going to get cleaning and we'll be right back. Got everything ready? Here is the bracket now: I took like I said I sand blasted it and then I just spritzed it with a little bit of Kryon.

I took the cut off wheel and I cut off all of our old uh little tack welds we put on there and then ground these heads down a little bit and then just put a booger of weld on each one to hold those studs. so that should be good for us. So this is going to go on the axle shaft first. Um, I've gone ahead and cleaned up our axle shaft, the ceiling surface and stuff.

so uh, slide that little guy on. Then we've got our OEM seal here. like I said. I Typically always use OEM seal.

they preg greased. Okay, make sure this goes on the right direction I'm going to slip that baby on there she goes and then uh, get your Ptic P crap your Br10 from Napper Good thing they wrap them in a little piece of plastic they know I'm going to drop it and make sure that this goes on in the correct direction too. Okay, this side goes down all right. So you want the taper going the right way, you'll figure it out, especially if you do it wrong then you won't forget and then your loot collar.

If you're buying an Oem bearing, make sure you buy this separate so this comes with it with it. With it, it comes with it when you get a Napa bearing although they don't sponsor us so now all your stuff sitting on here like so and then you look. You stick it up here and you press and you get one press block on it, then you get the other press block on it and slide it over. make sure your seals on and at this point you look at this thing and you say you say to yourself self if I push this on am I going to be upset for any reason and then you bring your press down, push the button okay the Press gets there and then you look at it again and and ask yourself self do I have this going the right direction is everything good I Give her a couple pumps and you stop one more time.

This way if you get it wrong, you're really upset and I don't think there's any reason we can't We have our collar, we've got the seal, we've got the bearing going the right direction, and the lock collar. the uh, excuse me, backing plate does not need to go on with this process like some of them some Toyotas some other Chryslers some other bearing setups. You have to have your backing plate on, hold your hand like this in case something bad happens. It should.

Oh, she hit bottom after it hits bottom, pull out cuz we're done and then slide Gu right up and out of there and there you are. We're already to put this little fella back in. What we need to do now is, well, couple things First of all. make sure you've got this cleaned up the best you can which I've took the wire brush ran around here.

There wasn't any real heavy corrosion so it's right down the bare metal, right around the axle tube here on the outside and also on the inside. there's going to be a little rust Ridge Here you want to clean that up. Uh, and I Guess one thing. So down in the comments, you're going to read that when we cut the bearing off the axle shaft, you're going to read a couple things: a We ruin the axle shaft because it gotot changes molecular structure and the wheels going to fall off and B you're going to read that we don't need to cut it off with a torch that we could have put a beat of weld around the bearing race and the bearing race would have fell off.

So that's not true. Somebody has seen on the internet where you can weld the inside of a bearing race in a blind hole. The weld shrinks. Therefore, the race shrinks and it falls out.

So in a situation like this, let's say this was a blind hole. You can't get behind it. Uh, for example, like in transfer case or front differentials on? well, not front differentials. Transfer case is the only I can think of right off hand.

um, some machinery and stuff where the bearing race sits inside of a hole, you can't get to the back of bearing. R You just take the welder and you you lay a beat all the way around. Uh, the bearing race. The weld shrinks, the race falls out.

So that's super easy in our situation on the shaft. If you welded a be all the way around it, the weld would shrink, therefore making the bearing race tighter on the shaft, making it harder to remove. So so that's it. I Just wanted to kind of clarify that.

Uh, before you read that, see that. or if you're in the middle of tight in that, uh, maybe rethink that before you do. So that's just something I was thinking of. Now we're going to get our vacuum plate.

When we buy these little fellas, they come. Dodge They come loaded. They've got everything in need and nothing that you don't. All the parts are on them before.

I Put them on I Put my cable in because it makes it a whole lot easier to slip that little guy on right now. and then you line her up. Just line it up with the holes like that. Now, remember you need that screw from the wheel speed sensor.

and don't put your wheel speed sensor in right now because the way the axle is made, when you go, put it in, you'll break it off so you don't want to do that. you don't want to snap it off. So just get that kind of lined up like that. They fit super super precise around this.

Hub So make sure you have it really clean and you know you might have to like lightly tap it to get it lined up. but that's it that makes the job super duper easy. And then I'm going to go get a little bit of bearing grease. Well, actually, we've got some gear oil right here.

We just kind of twirl around in this hole. a very light coating like. so then you're going to grab your axle. Now when you go to put this little fella in.

See these notches here on retainer notches on two sides, but not the other. Make sure those notches one of The Notches lines up here. Okay, that makes sense because that's where your speed sensor goes. Now let me move you so you can see what's up.

So you got your lock. Uh, your bearing retainer. Your bearing. That's on the right way.

Let's hope it is. And then you have your seal and when you go to put this little fella in it, just pull you, pull it all in at once. So when you're coming in, you got to say oh, guide me in Oh, you feel it, hit the splines and then you kind of line up your fell, line up your bearing, get her all lined up just like that and that's it. Okay now you got to push your little studs through here and then we're going to get the nuts nuts and this is the Oddball one.

and here's the you know, the lock nuts. but here's the Oddball one and then we're going to put those on and then you just go Roundy round snugging them up. What do you want? What? I'm in the middle of a big production over here I this one you working at. oh you got your fish.

that's A if you see this. if you read this, flip me over. Wait, what else is there? Take your top off Jeep Jeep, you know all the slug don't you? Andy uh I've seen him on the road. did they ever do the little guy that I don't know his name but he used to be on the bug guard with his just his fingers and his his eyes.

you're not even old enough to remember that I kind of am a little bit. What's up? I'm going be 40 in a in a month. are you really? hey, my birthday's in a couple days time. Oh yeah, how old you could be 44 difference is I Just told everybody the month I'm having a birthday and uh, nobody's going to send me a gift.

but now that I know 2 days from now is your birthday, you're going to get like UPS truck. Come here. kind. I Don't think so.

you don't think so. What do you want? Nothing. A good friend? A good friend, huh? How's it? I'm here. Perfect.

Youate that that isn't enough for you I'm not the guy got everything I've ever wanted. Bab. All right folks. I'm going to continue to talk to Andy and tighten these nuts up.

nut. Let me show you, we're not that good. Wow. Um, so we're going to tighten all these up, snug them up in an even crisscross.

uh, crisscross as if you were doing Peter book. Wheels is if you're doing Peter wheels and then that's going to pull in that bearing and seal. You can't really mess it up at this point folks, because it's everything is already started. It's just a long, slow process and then make sure that you uh, come back through and and then tighten these to factory specs.

We're all done visiting and we've got the new uh wheel speed sensor. We'll slip that baby right in, put the bolt in it. Little down here 8 mm is what you'll need for that little fella which we so conveniently have right here. Idiot should have got a different one, huh? We'll screw it all the way in by hand.

See if we've got enough room then probably not. We might have to get a shorty. Fits perfect very lightly. Snug it up, Plug this baby in.

Plugged in red locks pushed in. Think where everything's happy there. our cables hooked back up. all four of those nuts are all tight.

Our axle still spin so that's a plus. I Guess that's it folks. Pretty easy job. What I would do if I were a DIY and I was doing one of these.

I would pull the axles and see if you could take them to a shop and just have the bearing replaced. if you don't feel comfortable taking the bearing off and the retainer, or if you don't have to press yourself to put it back together, just see if a shop is willing to help you. You know, obviously for you know, for a fee, you know I mean can't expect him to do it for free, but um, see if they're capable first of all and then see if they're willing. Second of all, if they're not capable and they're willing, don't leave your axle there.

Little word of advice: I'm not sure how other folks get them off the uh lock nut and stuff and I don't know if I've ever. we could probably look in service data to see what that says. I've always just nicked them off with the torch cuz I found that's the fastest easiest method and you don't even have to cut all the way through. For example, like this, here is the bearing race.

I I could have cut that a little more so I go across it until it gets really thin and then that usually relieves it enough where you can just drive it off and the same thing you know like here's the one off the other side so that's usually how thin I go get it so it just goes through and then they come off nice and easy. same thing with a lock collar. uh, when my dad used to do them, he'd blow straight across them I never really like that method I can see better when I'm going this way cuz you just start shaving it down and as soon as it breaks through, you can see the axle and the heat transfer isn't there as long as you're not. you know, screwing around when you're back here.

If you're staying here too long and you've got it too hot for too long that Heat's going to transfer the axle and you're going to Nick the axle. So it's just like cutting a nut off a a bolt and not cutting the threads. You only got one chance. Uh well, it's hot, so heat you're up.

Go across it. If you got to come back across a couple times, forget about it. you're going to cut it. You're going to make a mess out of it.

So use your uh, use your noodle there and do some practicing. Maybe on some junk, but you'll get the hang of it. And again, if you're not comfortable with it, just take it to, uh, take it to a shop and have it done, but only if they're capable. Don't assume some machine shops will do it like our bath.

Nappa Here Not a sponsor. They have a machine shop and you can take like knuckles in there and have them press bearings in and out. And you know stuff like that. They're not capable of everything, but they are capable of some things All right.

Looks like she's got everything freed up there. Turn the bolts for the caliper here, slip this all back together. Customer did his own rear brakes, so we going to put the bolt in there, put the bolt in here. might not even have to adjust the parking brake.

The adjuster hole is in the back in case we have to. Now this car is standard shift manual transmission. We'll grab our air ratchet, take her down to 24 ft-lb is there's that? We're pretty well done folks. I'm going to throw the wheels on and we're going to cycle the parking brake a couple times and we probably to check the level of the gear oil in the rear end.

Wheels are on mostly tight going pound a 38 Drive little stubby extension Oh I thought we had a ratchet out here I Guess use the old air ratchet. make a funny face. it helps it come out easier. Dang why'd you do that? Got your classic 80 Dub 90.

that's all these Dner 44s call for M Smells delish. not really there now. I'll come out a little quicker. Oh there it is.

She's full. She's full. Just spin the wheels around. There we go.

Wasn't down very much, just wanted to make sure it's full. Looks like it could stand to have a rear differential service. There's that. I Knew we didn't lose much when we pulled the axles out but never hurts to check.

It's a 2012 according to the VIN number. When I looked up to see what fluid it took, said it was a 2012 clean that off so nobody knows we've been there going, sat down. we're going to torque the wheels, going to yank the parking brake on, see if we need to make any adjustments and then we'll go for a rep. Oops Got push the third P old starters dying or battery.

We'll drop her in the third gear and of course the data locks up as Chryslers often. Do try it again, we'll drop it down fourth gear here. Yeah, so pretty typical on uh, because we're going to have some traction control kicking on for the data to lock up when you're trying to read live data on Chryslers when any wheel speed often times, the data locks up. Uh, don't ask me why.

When we set it down, we'll go for a drive and see if it does. It's usually like when traction control and stuff is kicking on, let's turn the traction off. let's see if it works. Yeah, there we go.

So I turned traction control off when ABS activates on Chrysler the live data quits reading. Okay, so that's not uncommon to see. So if you see that, anybody who's observant here will see the difference between side to side, this one's going 18 M hour it's going 12. That's because we have the wheels up in air.

I'm going to step on the brakes a little bit. You'll see one side stops for the other, but it's just because it's running through the differential when we let it down. Trust me, it'll be the same. but I Just wanted to make sure that both of those speed sensors worked and it appears that they do.

And then like I say our parking rake comes up just a couple clicks before it gets stiff. So that's good. All right. I've washed my panties.

Oh crap. I Can't hold it? Well, we can try to hold the camera. Oh I think it's got six gears? Wow. Okay, ready.

e Brake check. Whoa. It works. Roll these wounds up.

Oh yeah, it's a Jeep thing. Let's see. we got to do this one right. Ed There we go.

All right. we're cruising now. I Don't know why we're going on a test drive I Guess just to make sure there's no noise back there. Brakes feel good.

Oh Bre brake feels good. This Gu should be happy. That's it folks. Putting the rear axle bearing sealed backing plates in your 2012 Jeep Wrangler with a big 36.

Not too terrible of a job. If you don't have a press at home. it's kind of a terrible job. But like I say take your axle assembly prior to taking your ax assembly out.

Find a shop. Find a machine shop. Find somebody that can do it for you who is confident in their abilities to not ruin your axle. Uh, because things can go wrong doing that Whether you you know elect to use the drill and crack method or the uh, you know, cut off wheel or whatever it is that people do to get you know bearing races is off from shafts.

uh. so just make sure that whoever does it for you is confident in their abilities and that's about it. Uh, if you have a torch or however you do it, get after it yourself. you know go for it.

It's not too terrible and uh, that's all. I got to tell you. Tell me what you want to tell me in that comment section questions. Comments: C ND The Facebook You guys know where to find this and just remember viewers.

If I can do it, you can do it. Thanks for watching he.