In this video I was testing Ms.Marie's car that seemed to have an intermittent starting issues.I was unable to perform conventional in vehicle tests that I would normally do because of the location of this starter in her car. I suspected there was a brush problem so I decided to test it just like I would any other DC motor. With a scope! -Enjoy!!
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If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
THANKS A MILLION!!
--Eric O.
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The South Main Auto Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
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--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
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Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
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The bill on your cap is worn out!
Too!
Awesome science with the answer. I had my starter just go out. Removed it and bench tested it. Gear was engaging and spinning but, I was not satisfied with that result. The way it was acting when installed was completely different from my bench testing results. So I asked the internet the question? Just because my starter motor gear engages and spins. Does that mean my starter motor is good?. And I am satisfied with the answer now after seeing your video. Science and a good piece of equipment like an oscilloscope is good to have in the shop. My question to you is how do you know to measure the Amps (I) verse Voltage (E) in this situation?
Hi, I have a 2014 accord that intermittently does not start just clicks. Sounds like click comes from starter. Replaced battery and same. Replaced starter with a junk yard starter, that was told has 33K on it, same issue. Dont have those tools to test. Should I get new starter or is it something else? Appreciate your time. Thanks.
had starter issues about a year ago maybe. tested it worked fine so didn't replace despite we had a new one already. fast forward to 1 year later same issue but worse. should of replaced then. now it won't even click only occasionally start and even so when it turns over it's rough just to get it started.
Just a comment. Just had a starter issue. Took it out of the car, took it to O'Riely and they "tested it" which means they just ran some Volts thru it. Tested GREAT! But in the end, it was still the starter that was bad. Trust your gut! Replaced the starter and the rig fired right up.
Could have been just the solenoid contacts. [$7 part] wish you had opened up the old unit!
Can one test the amps with ones multimeter? One doesnt have the fancy computer. One wishes one had a lift too lol. One digresses
Been a year now should be ready for another Napa starter! Lol
I hope the labor for Ms Marie is free
📡👉🏼🥔
when money was real tight I took apart a starter to clean the contacts real good put it back together and reinstalled, Years later car went to a new owner with the original starter. this video is great to see whats going on on a graph.
I just tried to amp test a starter with a basic multimeter…couldn't work out why the connector wires were getting hot; turns out it only goes up to 10 amps 😩
Thank you for this great video. I nkw understand it. Was confuse why when i bench tested it it work but when i install on engine it would not turn it over.
I have a huge voltage drop while mounted to the bike (would show 12v for a millisecond then drop to 6v), motor spins (on bench) but won't turn motor over. Brush's were very short as I took the motor apart. Stator looks good but the line in power terminal ohms to the starter housing.
ive cleaned gunk off commutator and had good results
So how does your video, and your fancy gadgets and graphs help the DIYers ? I guess you are out to impress viewers with your knowledge of a simple device.
I need to get a pico. So much easier to use than the autel scope I have
Subscribe!💪😃
When I connect the jumper cables it just sparks, smokes, and gets real hot. I’m guessing that means it’s bad or I’m doing something wrong
So I'm wondering, could that starter had been repaired> Or did you have to charger her an arm and a leg and just get a new one? I think I need to go into the car repair business! thats a great racket! lol
It's not a matter of if these starters will fail, but when!
haha "ya ding dong" … love it
Omg i love to learn from this channel! You should be a teacher really!
Who in the world would thumbs down this? People are so dumb
Mr. O uses his head for more than a hat rack. NAPA, get you stuff in gear and SPONSOR this man!!! (Until NAPA sponsors you, I'll still be shopping at Advance Auto) 😀
This brought to my mind of a time when I had borrowed mys sister's 1970's Mazda to drive to Atlanta (80 miles) – as soon as I got roughly half way there the car suddenly quit. Pulled on the side – opened the hood and after messing around looking anything out of the ordinary I saw the electric fuel pump (cars back then had the fuel located in the engine compartment) – I tapped on it and it began make it's running noise. Got back in and started driving only to have pump do the same thing again. So…I piece of wire in the trunk – tied it to the fuel pump and routed it up thru under the hood thru driver's side window….got back driving again….when the car started to sputter n' quit I'd just yank on the wire to get the fuel pump going again….was able to complete the trip…Lol!!
Starters on that Gen Civic very common failure, same with 13-17 4 cylinder Accords. Also another common problem with those Civics are the ac compressor clutch relays. Sticking closed and causing battery drain. And if car is running and ac is commanded off it will cause the blow off valve to relieve the pressure because the fans don’t run so you’ll need new relief valve evac and recharge along with relay.
can this test be done with any kind of scope?
Crappy failed Honda part….that's a non-starter.
Ah so it can't crank because at those intervals where the brush isn't making contact, the current is broken and the motor can't torque enough to overcome the resistance of the crank shaft.
Is there another way to verify/test the starter without a pico? My 2011 Buick Enclave suffers from the same symptoms, weak sounding crank (but she always starts), and the battery has already been replaced. I would love to know if there's another definitive way to verify the old starter.
Excellent demonstration!
Amateur hour at SMA is better than amateur hour any where else!
Wow, I learned something! Great video, Eric!
Can you do a video explaining how a scope can determine low compression? Still cant wrap my head around that one.
Thank you
I'm having problems with a starter damn duralast problem but that's a good way to check that
Can you clean the armature and install new brushes?
Awesome video!
I would be 100% of your customer if I would live 6 k km closer…
Scopes/Graphs are the greatest! We used them in the consumer electronics biz (TV's, stereo's, CB's etc.). It sounded good but it was erratic. I had a starter that would turn very slowly, like a bad battery turning. Took starter to my parts guy, pegged the amps on his tester, it was bad, new starter too. Great video!!
Thanks Eric.
looks like the new one jumped harder on the bench too.
I bought a junkyard starter and it tested good on the bench at junkyard. Installed in my car, it wouldn't start. I went back to junkyard as they have 30 day money back guarantee. Told me it tested good. Blew me off. I was out 35 bucks. I got scammed but couldn't prove it. This video shows why
Back in the day when I was a young guy, I put new brushes in my ‘69 Corvette’s starter. Dressed up the armature too. I suppose labor cost today makes it more economical to replace.
would love to see the inside of that motor…Take it apart, or hell, maybe even AvE would like to have a looksee.